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Exploits  and  Adventures 

of  a  Soldier  Ashore 

and  Afloat 


r 


^  I 

Exploits  and  Ad\  entures 

of  a  Soldier  Ashore 

and  Afloat 


BY 

WILLIAM  LLEWELLYN  ADAMS 


^2^ 


Q)iok: 


PRESS  OF 

J.   B.   LIPPINCOTT   COMPANY 
PUILADELPHIA 

1911 


O 

k3 


Copyright,  1911 
By  William  L.  Adams 


All  nights  Reeei<v6d' 


This  Book  is  Respectfullt 
Inscbibed  to  my 
BUNKIES    AND   SHIPMATES" 

OK    THE 

ARMY   AND   NAVY 


M'^-^ri 


''n2 


Preface 


In  introducing  the  follo^ving  narratives, 
the  contents  of  whicli  have  been  gleaned 
through  my  voyage  around  the  earth  in  quest 
of  excitement  and  natural  oddities,  for  which 
since  childhood  1  have  possessed  an  insatiable 
desire,  I  ^Wsh  to  acquaint  the  reader,  in  a 
brief  prefatory  discourse,  with  the  nature  of 
the  work  that  is  to  follow,  and  thereby 
gratify  the  curiosity,  so  natural  at  the  begin- 
ning, in  a  reader  of  reminiscences. 

Through  the  prevailing  influence  of  some 
loyal  friends,  whom  it  has  been  my  good 
fortune  to  have  had  as  correspondents  dur- 
ing my  military  career,  I  herein  attempt  to 
depict  events  as  they  actually  happened, 
without  recourse  to  imagination. 

Having  served  under  the  dominion  of 
"  Old  Glory  "  in  the  Occident  and  Orient, 
on  land  and  on  sea,  in  war  and  peace,  for  tlie 
period  of  ten  years,  I  naturally  fell  heir  to 
novel  and  interesting  occurrences,  so  numer- 


Preface 


ous  that  to  attempt  to  describe  in  detail 
would  necessitate  the  space  of  many  vol- 
umes; I  therefore  resort  to  conciseness,  at 
the  same  time  selecting  and  giving  a  compre- 
hensive description  of  those  occurrences 
which  are  most  important  in  my  category 
of  adventures. 

As  an  author  I  do  not  wish  to  be  misun- 
derstood. I  merely  desire  to  portray  what 
has  come  under  my  observation,  rather  than 
make  a  Marathon  with  the  laurels  of  so  dig- 
nified a  profession,  and  in  so  doing  communi- 
cate to  those  whose  arduous  duties  at  home 
have  deprived  them  of  the  romance  of  globe- 
trotting, and  thereby  distribute  the  knowl- 
edge that  some  more  silent  person  might 
never  unfetter. 

.In  conclusion  to  this  preface,  I  desire  to 
say,  that  I  have  refrained  from  the  manu- 
facture of  episodes  or  any  tendency  toward 
fiction,  which  I  trust  the  following  pages 
will  confirm,  and  that,  as  from  the  descrip- 
tion of  a  spectator,  these  narratives  will  meet 
with  the  approval  of  those  into  whose  hands 
they  might  chance  to  fall. 

The  Author. 


Contents 

Chapter  I'aKe 

I      Campaign    of     the     "  Governor's     Troop," 

Penna.  Vol.  Cavalry 15 

II     On  board  a  "  Man-of-war  "  from  New  York 

to  Morocco 45 

III  Thrilling     Adventure     with     Moors    in     the 

"  Kasbah  "  of  Algiers 63 

IV  From  the  Pyramids  of  Eg}'pt  to  Singapore  .      71 
V     Hong  Kong,  China,  and  the  Denizens  of  the 

Underworld 90 

VI     A  Trip  to  Japan 103 

VII      War  Orders  in  the  "Land  of  the  Rising  Swn"   1 18 
VTII     The  Cowboy  Soldier,  a  Coincidence .    .    .    .    1-15 
IX     Life  Among  Hostile  Moros  in  the  Jungles  of 

Mindanao 109 

X     A  Midnight  Phantasy  in  California  ....    197 
XI     "Semper   Fidehs,"   the    Marine  "Guard  of 

Honor,"  World's  Fair,  St.  Louis.  1904.    .    208 
XII     Topographical  Survey  in  the  Jungles  of  Luzon  242 

XIII  "Cock-fighting,"  the  National  Sport  of  the 

Philippines 271 

XIV  Departure    of     the    29th    Infantn,-    for    the 

Home-land;  Reception  in  Honolulu  .    .    .    279 


Illustrations 


Page 
William  Llewellyn  Adams Frontispiece 

Detachment  of  "  Governor's  Troop,"  Mt.  Gretna, 
1898 20 

A  Trooper 42 

Tent  No.  2,  Fynmore  and  Adams,  "  World's  Fair," 
St.  Louis.  1904 214 

Coleman  and  Adams,  Gun-mule  "  Dewey,"  Ma- 
chine-gun Battery 258 

Machine  Gun  Platoon  of  the  29th  Infantry  in  the 
Snow  Capped  Wasatch  Range,  Utah 2(50 


\Yherc  spades  grow  bright  and  idle  swords  grow  dull. 

Where  jails  are  empty  aud  where  barns  are  full. 
Where  church  paths  are  with  frequent  feet  outworn. 

Law  court-yards  empty,  silent,  and  forlorn; 
Where  lawyers  foot  it  and  the  farmers  ride. 

Where  age  abounds  and  youth  is  multiplied: 
Where  these  signs  are,  they  clearly  indicate 

A  happy  people  and  well-governed  state. 

Anonymous. 


I. 

Campaign    of   the    '*  Governor's 

Troop,"  Penna.  Volunteer 

Cavalry 


The  "  Pandora  Box  " — Call  for  Volunteers — Mustered 
In — Breaking  of  Horses  at  INIt.  Gretna — Liberality 
of  the  Ladies  of  Harrisburg  and  Ilazleton — Departure 
of  the  Tenth  Pennsylvania  for  the  Philippines — My 
First  Rebuff,  by  Major-General  Graham — Thirty 
Thousand  Soldiers  Celebrate  the  Victory  of  Santiago — 
Troopers  Deeorated  with  Flowers  by  the  Maidens  of 
Richmond — The  ('oncert  Halls  of  Newport  News — 
The  Ghost  Walks — Off  for  the  Front — Convoyed  by 
Battleships  —  Porto  Rico  —  Spanish  Hospitality  — 
Wounded  by  a  Shell — Jack  the  "  Mascot  "  Passes  the 
Deal — Reception  in  New  York,  Harrisburg,  and 
Hazleton. 

The  destruction  of  the  United  States 
])attleship  Maine  in  Havana  harbor,  on  the 
ni^ht  of  February  15,  1898,  was  the  key  to 
the  mysterious  "  Pandora  Box,"  containing 
maps  of  new  United  States  possessions,  the 

16 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


coinmissior.  of  an  admiral,  the  creation  of  a 
President,  the  construction  of  a  formidable 
army  and  navy,  the  hmniliation  of  a  proud 
nation,  and  numerous  other  undisputed 
ascendencies. 

The  uncivilized,  brutal,  and  oppressive 
methods  resorted  to  by  the  Spaniards  in  con- 
ducting military  operations  on  the  Island  of 
Cuba  and  other  territory  adjacent  to  the 
United  States  had  long  been  a  theme  of  dis- 
cussion by  patrio+ic  and  sympathizing 
Americans.  When  the  news  flashed  over  the 
wires  that  the  big  man-of-war,  the  Maine, 
had  been  blown  up  and  two  hundred  and 
sixty-six  members  of  her  gallant  crew  had 
been  sent  to  a  watery  grave,  the  hearts  of 
American  youths  burned  with  indignation 
and  every  mother's  son  yearned  to  avenge 
what  was  considered  Spanish  treachery. 
What  followed  is  entered  in  the  archives  of 
American  history  and  is  familiar  to  all.  The 
call  for  volunteers  was  responded  to  univer- 
sally, there  being  so  many  applicants  to  fill 
the  ranks  that  only  the  flower  of  the  Amer- 
ican youth  was  accepted. 

When  the  news  was  wired  broadcast  that 

16 


SoldicT     Ashore     and     Afloat 

Commodore  Dewey  had   fairly  annihilated 
the  Spanish  fleet  in  Asiatic  waters,  without 
the  loss  of  a  man,  there  was  a  hurst  of  enthu- 
siasm that  can  well  he  imagined  hy  those  too 
young  to  remember  the  occasion.     At  9.00 
A.M.  on  the  second  of  INIay,  1898,  this  news 
was  received  in  Hazleton,  Pennsylvania.    It 
was  followed  hy  a  telegram  from  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  "  Governor's  Troop,"  Pennsyl- 
vania Volunteer   Cavalry,   of  Harrisburg, 
which  stated  that  twelve  vacancies  existed 
in  that  troop  and  that  in  accordance  with  the 
request  of  Governor  Hastings  these  vacan- 
cies should  he  lilled  with  the  first  volunteers 
from  the  city  of  Hazleton.     In  two  hours' 
time   the    recipient    of    the   telegram,    INIr. 
Willard  Young,  had  notified  and  enlisted 
twelve  of  Hazleton's  stalwart  sons,  and  at 
7.40  A.M.  the  next  morning,  amidst  the  wav- 
ing of  the  national  colors  and  cheers  from 
the  populace  the  boys  were  escorted  by  the 
famous   old   Liberty   Eand   to   the   Lehigh 
Valley  Station  where,  after  bidding  adieu  to 
relatives,    sweethearts,    and    friends,    they 
boarded  a  train  for  ^It.  Gretna,  the  military 
rendezvous. 

2  17 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

The  men  who  comprised  this  Hazleton 
assemblage  were — 

Aeio  p.  Platte,  Jr. 
Schuyler  Ridge  way 
John  J.  Turnbach 
William  K.  Byrnes 
WiLLARD  Young 
Charles  H.  Rohland 
Edward  R.  Turnback 
Stephen  A.  Barber 
Edwin  W.  Barton 
Herbert  S.  Houck 
Clarence  H.  Hertz 
William  L.  Adams 

En  route  to  Pottsville  the  train  was 
boarded  by  my  life-long  friend,  David  L. 
Thomas,  who  was  on  his  way  to  his  law  office. 
On  learning  the  destination  of  the  patriots 
he  laid  down  his  "  Blackstone  "  and  wired 
his  parents  in  Mahanoy  City  that  he  had 
cast  his  fortunes  with  the  avengers  of  Span- 
ish tyranny.  Of  this  group  of  volunteers, 
two  loyal  soldiers  have  answered  the  last 
roll  call,  namely:  Ario  P.  Platte,  Jr.,  and 
David  L.  Thomas. 

18 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


Arriving  at  ^It.  Gretna  wc  beheld,  under 
miles  of  canvas,  Pennsylvania's  gallant 
National  Guard.  Upon  inquiry  we  found 
the  cavalry  headtjuartcrs,  consisting  of  the 
"  City  Troop  "  of  Philadelphia,  the  "  wSher- 
idan  Troop  "  of  Tyrone,  and  the  "  Gover- 
nor's Troop  "  of  Harrisburg,  stationed  in 
a  clump  of  forest  near  the  lake. 

Immediately  reporting  to  Captain  Ott, 
commanding  the  "  Governor's  Troop,"  we 
were  assigned  to  quarters  in  large  Sibly 
tents  and  met  the  old  members  of  the  troop, 
among  whom  I  was  delighted  to  find  Feight 
and  Barker,  two  classmates  of  mine  at 
"  Dickinson  Seminary."  We  were  at  once 
issued  mess  kits,  the  most  necessary  equip- 
ment required  by  a  soldier  when  not  in  the 
face  of  the  enemy,  and,  roaming  hither  and 
thither,  awaited  the  usual  medical  ex(imina- 
tion  preparatory  to  being  mustered  into  the 
service  of  the  United  States,  which,  after 
several  dreary  and  monotonous  days,  oc- 
curred on  the  l.'3th  of  May.  After  being 
fitted  in  natty  cavalry  uniforms  we  were 
drilled  twice  daily  on  foot  by  an  ex-sergeant 
of  the  regular  army,  whose  service  in  the 

19 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

regulars  had  qualified  him  for  the  arduous 
task  of  breaking  in  raw  recruits.  This  drill 
was  an  experience  not  relished  very  much,  as 
profound  obedience  was  required,  and  many 
wished  the  war  was  over  before  it  had  really 
begun. 

Before  bringing  the  troop  to  attention, 
the  sergeant  would  usually  say:  "Now 
boys,  I  want  you  to  pay  attention  to  my 
orders,  and  if  you  make  mistakes  I  am  apt 
to  say  some  things  I  do  not  really  mean." 
So  we  would  take  his  word  for  this,  but  oft- 
times  thought  things  we  did  mean.  This  was 
his  song:  "Fall  in,"  "Troop  attention," 
"Right  dress,"  "Front,"  "Count  off," 
"Backward  guide  right,"  "March,"  "As 
skirmishers,"  "  March,"  "  Get  some  speed 
on  you,"  "  Wake  up,"  "  Wake  up,"  "  As- 
semble double  time,"  "  March,"  "  Look  to 
the  front,  and  get  in  step,  you  walk  like 
farmers  hoeing  corn,"  "  Close  in<,"  "  Close 
in,"  "  Take  up  that  interval."  These  were 
the  daily  commands,  until  the  troop  was  able 
to  execute  close  and  extended  order  to  per- 
fection. Then  came  the  horses,  and  the 
monkey  drill,  and  some  pitiful  sights  of 

20 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


liorsciiianshi]),  until  each  of  the  boyh  had 
accustomed  hiniselt  to  his  own  horse  and 
had  hecoine  hardened  to  the  saddle. 

At  first  we  were  equipped  with  the  old 
Sprinoffiehl  rifle,  hut  this  was  soon,  replaced 
by  the  Krag-Jorgensen  carbine.  Kach 
trooper  was  soon  fully  equipped  as  follows: 
horse,  McClellen  saddle,  saddle  bags,  bridle, 
halter,  and  horse  blanket,  carbine,  saber, 
Colt  revolver,  belts,  and  ammunition,  can- 
teen, mess  kits,  sleeping  blanket,  shelter  half, 
and  uniforms. 

The  ladies  of  Harrisburg  and  Plazleton 
were  extremely  generous  to  the  troop.  From 
Harrisburg  eacli  soldier  received  a  large  and 
beautiful  yellow  silk  neckerchief,  a  Bible, 
and  a  hirge  quantity  of  pipes  and  tobacco. 
From  Ilazleton  came  literature  and  boxes 
after  boxes  of  edibles,  which  were  greatly 
relished  by  the  troopers. 

Some  time  was  consumed  in  the  breaking 
of  horses,  getting  them  l^ridle  wise,  and 
training  them  to  the  saddle,  and  this 
afforded  great  amusement  to  the  thousands 
of  spectators  wlu)  visited  the  reservation 
daily.     The  troop,  wliich  consisted  of  one 

21 


Exploits   and   Adventures  of  a 


hundred  privates  and  tliree  commissioned 
officers,  was  made  up  of  men  from  various 
walks  of  life.  Lawyers,  athletes,  students, 
merchants,  ex-regular-armj^  soldiers,  cow- 
boys, and  Indians  swapped  stories  around 
the  camp-fires  at  night.  Every  day,  after 
the  usual  routine  of  duty  had  been  per- 
formed, games  of  all  descriptions  were  in- 
dulged in,  poker  under  the  shade  of  an  "  A  " 
wall  tent  usually  predominating.  One  of 
the  entertaining  features  of  the  camp  was  a 
quartette  of  singers,  members  of  the  "  Sher- 
idan "  and  "Governor's"  troops,  and  ex- 
members  of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania 
Glee   Club.     These   boys   were   always   in 

demand. 

"  Broncho  buster,"  George  S.  Reed,  an 
ex-Texas  ranger,  Nome  gold  miner,  and  sur- 
vivor of  several  duels,  the  most  noted  man 
of  the  "  Governor's  Troop,"  had  cast  his 
fortunes  with  the  soldier  "  lay  out,"  and  had 
boasted  that  there  never  was  a  broncho 
foaled  that  he  could  not  cling  to.  "  Bron- 
cho's "  debut  as  an  equestrian  was  to  ride  a 
horse  we  called  the  "  rat,"  a  bad  one.  Reed 
had  great  difficulty  in  getting  his  foot  in  the 

22 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

stirrup,  as  this  animal  would  bite,  buck,  iind 
kick,  and  besides  held  a  few  tricks  in  reserve. 
Finally,  taking  a  desperate  chance,  "  Bron- 
cho "  swung  himself  into  the  saddle  and  the 
show  was  on.  The  horse  plunged,  bolted, 
and  bucked,  in  trying  to  unseat  the  rider. 
When  all  efforts  seemed  to  have  been  ex- 
hausted, the  "  rat  "  bucked,  and  made  a  com- 
plete somersault,  rolling  the  ranger  on  the 
turf,  then  rising  and  doing  a  contortion, 
wriggled  through  the  saddle  girth  and 
bhuiket,  and  bolted  for  the  timber.  "  That 
horse  is  mad,"  said  Reed,  brushing  the  dust 
from  his  uniform.  "  Did  you  see  it  loop  the 
loop?  "  The  horse  that  fell  to  "  Broncho's  " 
lot  was  a  gentle  animal,  that  could  tell  by 
instinct  when  the  canteen  was  empty,  and 
would  stand  without  hitching  at  any  point 
wlicrc  the  goods  could  be  supplied. 

Eacli  day  brought  forth  news  of  the 
mobilization  of  troo])s  and  the  progress  of 
tile  war.  Mt.  (iretna,  an  ideal  place  for  a 
military  rendezvous,  presented  a  grand  spec- 
tacle. Regiments  were  rigidly  disciplined 
and  drilled  to  the  requirements  of  war,  sham 
battles    were    fought,    galloping    horsemen 

23 


Exploits    and   Adventures    of  a 

could  be  seen  rej)ulsing  the  enemy,  while 
the  wild  cheering  of  the  infantry  in  the 
charge,  and  the  reckless  maneuvering  of 
artillery  in  establishing  points  of  vantage  for 
getting  into  action,  had  the  aspect  of  mimic 
war. 

Days  rolled  by  and  the  troops  yearned 
for  active  service.  The  Tenth  Pennsylvania 
Infantry,  having  received  orders  to  proceed 
to  the  Philippine  Islands,  was  the  first  regi- 
ment to  break  the  monotony.  There  was 
great  activity  in  breaking  camp,  and  a 
speedy  departure  amidst  a  wild  demonstra- 
tion enthused  the  boys  whose  fate  lay  with 
the  fortunes  of  war,  and  whose  valiant 
bravery  along  the  south  line,  from  Bacoor 
to  Manila,  will  ever  remain  vivid  in  the 
annals  of  the  insurrection. 

The  news  of  the  departure  of  the  "  Rough 
Riders  "  for  Cuba  was  heralded  with  much 
joy  as  a  forerunner  of  our  getting  to  the 
front,  also  the  distribution  of  regiments  to 
southern  camps,  where  the  sons  of  the  "  Blue 
and  the  Gray  "  commingled  and  fraternized 
as  comrades  fighting  for  the  same  cause,  and 
spun  yarns  of  the  bloody  strife  of  the  rebel- 

24 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

lion  in  wliich  their  fathers  had  opposed  each 
other  in  a  hitter  struggle. 

The  promulgation  of  the  general  order 
direeting  our  departure  for  the  South  was 
received  with  cheers.  Breaking  camp  was 
immediately  l^egun,  the  loading  of  horses 
and  equipment  on  the  train  being  accom- 
plished with  the  dexterity  of  a  troop  of  regu- 
lars. All  along  the  route  the  train  met  with 
an  ovation.  There  was  waving  of  flags  and 
handkerchiefs,  bells  were  tolled,  and  the 
shrill  whistles  of  factories  welcomed  the 
boys  on  to  the  front.  Arriving  at  Falls 
Church,  Virginia,  we  at  once  set  to  work 
unloading  our  horses  and  accoutrements  of 
war,  which  was  accomplished  with  ahnost 
insuperable  difficulty,  due  to  our  having 
reached  our  destination  at  night  and  in  a 
blinding  rain-storm. 

Among  the  members  of  our  troop  was  a 
Swedish  Count,  and  at  this  point  I  recall  a 
little  incident  which  it  will  not  be  amiss  to 
relate.  We  had  unloaded  our  horses  and  were 
awaiting  orders,  when  the  Count  approached 
me  and  said: 

"  Bill,  ven  do  ve  eat?  " 


25 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of  a 

"  I  guess  we  don't  eat,  Count,"  I  replied; 
"  these  are  the  horrors  of  war." 

"  Veil,  py  tarn,"  said  the  Count,  "  dis  vore 
vas  all  horrores.  I  vanted  to  blay  benuckle 
on  der  train  und  der  corporal  say :  '  You  go 
mit  der  baggage  car,  unt  cook  some  beans,* 
unt  by  tarn,  I  couldn't  cook  vater  yet." 

We  remained  at  Falls  Church  over  night, 
and  in  the  morning  marched  to  Camp  Alger 
through  blinding  torrents  of  rain  and  fet- 
lock-deep in  mud.  This  camp,  like  most 
Southern  camps,  was  very  unhealthy,  the  heat 
was  stifling,  and  many  soldiers  succumbed  to 
fever.  Here  the  troops  of  cavalry  were  con- 
solidated into  a  squadron,  consisting  of 
Troop  "  A  "  of  New  York,  Troop  "  C  "  of 
Brooklyn,  "  City  Troop  "  of  Philadelphia, 
"  Sheridan  Troop  "  of  Tyrone,  and  "  The 
Governor's  Troop  "  of  Harrisburg,  under 
the  command  of  Major  Jones,  formerly  cap- 
tain of  the  "  Sheridan  Troop,"  who  relieved 
Captain  Groome,  of  the  "  City  Troop  "  of 
Philadelphia,  who  had  been  temporarily  in 
command. 

Camp  Alger  was  a  city  of  tents,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  discern  in  every  direction,  there 

26 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

being  about  thirty  thousand  soldiers  in  the 
camp.  ]\Iy  first  duty  at  this  Post  was  a 
detail  as  "  orderly,"  at  General  (iraham's 
headquarters.  With  a  well-groomed  horse, 
polished  saddle,  and  soldierly  immaculate- 
ness,  I  reported  for  duty.  Entering  the 
General's  spacious  tent  and  saluting,  I  said: 

"  Sir,  Trooper  Adams,  of  the  '  Governor's 
Troop,'  reports  as  orderly  to  the  Command- 
ing General." 

"  Very  well,"  replied  the  General;  "  give 
the  Colonel  of  the  Second  Tennessee  my 
compliments  and  tell  him  I  will  review  his 
regiment  at  4.30  v.^i/' 

"  Yes,  sir,  but,  by  the  way,  General," 
said  I,  "  where  is  the  Second  Tennessee 
located? " 

"  Make  an  about  face  and  follow  your 
nose,"  the  old  man  replied,  and  I  did;  but  if 
the  old  General  could  have  heard  the  mute 
invectives  aimed  at  him  I  probably  never 
would  have  told  this  yarn.  I  do  not  blame 
him  now,  as  1  realize  how  unniilitary  I  was. 
I  had  no  difHculty  in  linding  the  Colonel  of 
the  Second  Tennessee,  as  I  kept  my  nose 
riglit  in  front  of  nie. 

The  news  of  the  victory  of  Santiago  was 
27 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

celebrated  by  the  troops  in  gorgeous  style. 
Regiment  followed  regiment  in  wild  ac- 
claim, cheers  after  cheers  resounded  from 
the  throats  of  the  thirty  thousand  soldiers 
who  were  anxiously  awaiting  their  call  to 
the  front.  Bonfires  of  tar  barrels  were  kept 
burning  all  night,  and  the  excitement  of  the 
camp  w^as  intense. 

The  cavalry  was  ordered  to  Newport 
News  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  transports ; 
but,  unlike  the  Sixth  Massachusetts,  that 
was  stoned  in  Baltimore  at  the  outbreak  of 
the  rebellion,  our  greetings  in  the  South  were 
exceptionally  friendly.  At  Richmond  bou- 
quets of  flowers  were  scattered  in  profusion 
among  the  soldiers,  and  many  a  fair  maiden 
left  the  station  with  a  pair  of  cross  sabers 
pinned  to  her  shirtwaist. 

Our  camp  at  Newport  News  was  on 
sandy  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  James  River, 
which  afforded  excellent  bathing  and  fish- 
ing. Here  the  cavalry  received  their  khaki 
uniforms,  which  were  the  first  issued  to 
United  States  troops  and  had  the  appear- 
ance of  an  officer's  regimentals.  As  a  conse- 
quence it  was  a  common  sight  to  see  a 
"  doughboy "    saluting    a    trooper    as    he 

28 


Solflirr     Ashore     and     Afloat 


strolled  through  the  city.  A  member  of  a 
Kentucky  regiment  was  heard  to  remark: 
"  That  Pennsylvania  cavalry  is  hot  stuff; 
they  are  all  officers." 

A  few  days  after  pitching  camp,  some- 
thing happened;  it  is  an  occasion  when  a 
soldier  possesses  that  air  of  complacency 
which  invariably  pervades  the  atmosphere. 
It  is  when  the  "ghost  walks"  (pay  day) that 
the  soldier  is  not  only  hap2)y,  but  has  a  keen 
desire  for  making  every  one  with  whom  he 
comes  in  contact  happy.  As  a  dispenser  of 
pleasure,  when  he  has  "  the  necessary,"  his 
speed  brooks  no  competition,  and  all  others 
look  like  "  pikers "  compared  with  "  the 
man  behind  the  gun." 

In  1898  Barton's  Theatre  and  Concert 
Hall  was  a  nightly  scene  of  revelry,  by 
cavalry,  artillery,  and  infantry,  and  from  a 
spectator's  point  of  view  it  was  hard  to  de- 
cide which  was  of  more  interest,  the  scenes 
in  front  or  in  rear  of  the  footlights.  Songs 
that  reached  a  soldier's  heart  were  sung  bv 
dashing  "  })rima  donnas  from  the  cotton- 
fields  of  Dixie,"  the  soldiers  joining  in  the 
chorus.  After  the  "  ghost  had  walked  "  this 
particular  concert  hall  fell  into  the  hands  of 

29 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of   a 

the  boys,  among  whom  was  found  talent  far 
surpassing  anything  behind  the  footHghts. 
The  soubrettes  of  the  ballet  dance  mingled 
with  the  boys,  and  these  scenes  were  equiva- 
lent to  the  "  Can  Can  "  of  the  famous  "  Red 
Mill  "  of  Paris,  or  a  Creole  "  Bal  Masque  " 
during  a  New  Orleans  "  Mardi  Gras." 

As  the  orchestra  struck  up  the  music  to 
"  For  he  is  only  a  Soldier  Boy,"  a  dashing 
southern  beauty,  in  military  costume,  would 
saunter  to  the  footlights,  accompanied  by  a 
chorus  of  lesser  lights,  whose  evolutions, 
combined  with  their  singing,  were  extremely 
pretty  and  inspiring  to  the  soldiers.  This 
sketch  brought  forth  deafening  applause, 
dying  out  only  as  a  trooper  announced  that 
he  would  endeavor  to  recite  "  The  Midnight 
Ride  of  Paul  Revere,"  or  perhaps  "  Tam 
O'Shanter,"  while  another  would  volunteer 
to  inflict  us  with  "  Casey  at  the  Bat "  or 
"  The  Face  upon  the  Bar-room  Floor,"  to 
the  mournful  strains  from  the  dirge  of 
Imogen,  a  sure  harbinger  for  the  dispensers 
of  "  sangaree  "  to  get  busy  and  take  orders. 
Another  song,  and  the  dance  was  on  once 
more  and  continued  until  the  "  dog  watch  " 

30 


Soldier    Ashore     and    Afloat 


of  the  night,  when  the  soldiers  realized  that 
at  reveille  every  man  must  be  in  ranks  to 
answer  to  the  call  of  his  name  or  suffer  the 
alternative,  a  berth  in  the  "  brig." 

This  was  the  briglit  side  of  war,  and,  as 
each  soldier  was  intent  on  getting  to  the 
front,  it  was  the  exception  rather  than  the 
rule  to  hear  of  a  misdemeanor  being  com- 
mitted, or  even  to  hear  of  a  man  being  con- 
fined to  the  "  guard  house." 

Newport  News  was  a  gay  place  in  '98. 
Its  people  were  very  hosi)itable  and  friendly 
with  the  troops.  Old  Point  Comfort  and  the 
Forts  of  Hampton  Roads  were  but  a  short 
run  by  rail  from  the  camp,  and  these  were 
favorite  resorts  of  the  soldiers.  Great  ex- 
citement prevailed  when  the  order  for  the 
Porto  Rican  expedition — "  Pennsylvania 
Cavalry  to  the  front " — was  received. 

The  transport  Manitoba  had  been  fitted 
from  an  old  cattle  scow  to  a  serviceable 
troo})-sliip,  and  had  just  returned  from  con- 
veying a  detachment  of  "  Rough  Riders  " 
to  Cuba.  This  vessel  was  spacious  but  lack- 
ing in  the  accommodations  of  our  present- 
day  transports  that  ply  the  Pacific.    Consid- 

31 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 


erable  time  was  spent  in  getting  our  horses 
and  munitions  of  war  on  board.  When  the 
signal  to  cast  loose  and  provide  was  given 
we  had  on  board  three  troops  of  cavalry, 
three  batteries  of  field  artillery,  one  battalion 
of  Kentucky  infantry,  and  detachments  of 
engineer,  hospital,  and  signal  corps,  seven 
hundred  head  of  horses,  and  three  hundred 
head  of  mules,  besides  the  cargo  of  muni- 
tions of  war. 

Our  time  on  board  was  occupied  in  pre- 
paring for  a  harder  campaign  than  mate- 
rialized. Carbines  and  six-shooters  were 
oiled,  and  sabers  burnished  (the  scabbards 
of  these,  being  nickel-plated,  required 
merely  a  coating  of  oil  to  keep  them  from 
rust).  Our  boots  were  greased,  and  the 
front  and  rear  sights  of  our  carbines  were 
blackened.  The  boys  scalloped  the  rims  of 
their  campaign  hats,  and  some  were  tattooed 
by  adepts  in  the  art.  Cards  and  reading 
were  other  pastimes  of  the  voyage. 

The  fifth  day  out  the  United  States 
cruiser  Columbia  and  battleship  Indiana 
were  sighted;  they  had  come  to  convoy  the 
ship  into  the  harbor  of  Playa  Del  Ponce. 

32 


Soldier     Ashore    and    Afloat 


Arriving  in  the  harbor  at  night,  wc  had  the 
misfortune  to  run  on  a  sand-bar,  where,  being 
compelled  to  anchor  with  a  list  of  about 
forty  degrees,  the  possibility  of  our  landing 
at  night  became  rather  vague.  While  mak- 
ing preparations  for  an  attempt  to  land,  a 
heavy  gale  encompassed  the  bay,  making 
our  position  2)erilous,  and,  as  this  continued 
throughout  the  following  day,  it  was  with 
the  utmost  difliculty  that  our  horses  and 
mules  were  landed,  a  mimber  of  them  being 
swung  overboard  and  allowed  to  swim  ashore. 
Having  finally  reached  the  ground  of  the 
enemy,  great  precaution  was  taken  to  avoid 
a  surprise;  the  water  was  inspected  to  make 
sure  that  it  contained  no  poisonous  sub- 
stance and  the  orders  in  posting  sentinels 
were  rigidly  enforced — each  sentry  before 
being  posted  had  to  be  thoroughly  familiar 
with  his  orders,  being  required  to  repeat 
them  verbatim,  and  was  also  admonished  as 
to  the  importance  of  keeping  constantly  on 
the  alert.  lie  was  forewarned  that  to  be 
found  asleep  on  post  in  the  enemy's  country 
meant  to  be  tried  by  court-martial  and  if 
convicted  to  suffer  the  ])cnalty  of  death. 

3  33 


Exploits   and   Adventures  of  a 

Our  first  rendezvous  was  alongside  of  an 
old  Spanish  cathedral,  surrounded  by  plan- 
tations of  sugarcane,  coffee,  hemp,  and 
tobacco;  here  we  pitched  a  camp  of  shelter 
or  "  dog-tents "  as  they  were  generally 
called.  As  we  were  getting  our  accoutre- 
ments of  war  in  shape  the  rapid  fire  of  the 
Sixteenth  Pennsylvania  engaging  the  enemy 
could  be  distinctl}^  heard,  this  engagement, 
however,  being  of  short  duration,  like  all 
other  Spanish- American  encounters  in  the 
West  Indies. 

Playa  Del  Ponce  is  the  port  of  the  city  of 
Ponce,  and  is  the  shipping  point  for  that 
section  of  the  Island  of  Porto  Rico.  The 
town  is  surrounded  by  rich  plantations  of 
tobacco,  coffee,  sugarcane,  and  rice,  also 
trees  teeming  with  oranges,  cocoanuts, 
guavas,  lemons,  grape-fruit,  and  groves  of 
bananas  and  plantains.  The  staple  produc- 
tion of  the  island  is  tobacco,  from  which  is 
manufactured  a  very  choice  brand  of  cigars. 
The  city  of  Ponce  lies  inland  a  distance  of 
about  three  miles,  and  is  typically  Spanish 
in  its  architecture. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  at  Playa  Del 

34 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

Ponce,  I  liad  occasion  to  take  my  horse  in 
the  ocean  for  a  s\Wm,  which  was  great  sport 
and  beneficial  to  the  animal.  In  dismount- 
ing on  my  return  to  the  beach,  I  had  the 
painful  misfortune  to  tread  on  a  thin  sea 
shell  which  penetrated  my  heel,  breaking 
into  several  pieces.  On  my  return  to  the 
camp  I  found  the  troop  surgeon  had  left  for 
Ponce,  so  seeking  the  assistance  of  a  Span- 
ish-Porto Kican  physician,  one  Garcia  Del 
Valyo,  I  was  relieved  after  considerable 
probing,  of  the  broken  pieces  of  shell.  The 
wet  season  being  in  progress  and  our  hos- 
pital facilities  limited,  the  doctor  kindly 
offered  me  quarters  in  his  beautiful  resi- 
dence, and  recommended  to  my  troop  com- 
mander that  I  remain  at  his  home  until  my 
wound  had  healed.  To  this  the  officer 
acquiesced. 

I  was  given  a  room  overlooking  the  bay 
on  one  side,  with  the  town  bounding  the 
other;  a  crutch  and  an  oil-cloth  shoe  were 
provided  for  me,  with  wliich  T  was  a])le  to 
hobble  around  with  tlie  two  beautiful  daugli- 
ters  of  the  old  gentleman,  namely,  Anita 
and  Consuelo  Del  Valyo.     They  spoke  the 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

Anglo-Saxon  language  fairly  well  and 
taught  me  my  first  lessons  in  Spanish,  while 
I  in  return  instructed  them  in  my  language. 
Both  were  artistes,  being  skilled  in  painting, 
sculpture,  and  music,  and  I  often  recall  the 
happy  evenings  spent  listening  to  the  sweet 
notes  of  "  La  Paloma "  as  sung  to  the 
trembling  tones  of  a  mandolin  accompani- 
ment. Traditional  custom  permitted  the 
piano  and  various  Spanish  songs  during  the 
day,  but  never  "  La  Paloma,"  wine,  and  the 
"  Fandango  "  until  after  twilight.  It  was  a 
picturesque  sight  to  watch  these  senoritas 
perform  the  "  Fandango,"  clicking  the  cas- 
tanets and  gracefully  tapping  the  tambou- 
rine as  they  whirled  through  coils  of  cigar- 
ette smoke. 

I  spent  nine  days  in  this  hospitable  domi- 
cile and  was  sorry  when  my  wound  had 
healed,  but  alas!  I  had  to  join  my  troop, 
which  had  departed  for  the  interior.  Before 
leaving  Playa  Del  Ponce,  I  was  presented 
with  a  small  gold  case  containing  the  minia- 
tures of  these  charming  ladies.  During  the 
campaign  on  the  island,  I  made  several  trips 
in  to  see  them,  accompanied  by  members  of 

36 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

the  troop,  aiul  before  our  departure  from 
Porto  Kieo,  had  the  extreme  pleasure  of 
attending  a  genuine  Porto  Rican  "  Fiesta." 
It  is  sad  to  relate  that  the  entire  family 
suffered  the  fate  of  a  large  percentage  of 
the  population  of  Playa  Del  Ponce,  in  the 
terrible  tidal  wave  which  swept  that  portion 
of  the  island  in  1899.  Far  be  it  from  me  to 
ever  forget  the  kindness,  engaging  presence, 
and  irresistible  charm  of  these  unfortunate 
people. 

On  my  way  to  join  the  troop,  I  met  the 
Sixteenth  Pennsylvania  Infantry,  escorting 
about  eight  hundred  prisoners  of  war  into 
the  city,  where  they  were  to  remain  in  incar- 
ceration until  the  arrival  of  the  transports 
which  were  to  convey  the  Spanish  soldiers  to 
Spain.  When  they  halted  near  the  old 
stockade  in  the  city  of  Ponce  I  secured  some 
unique  curios  including  a  S^^anish  coronet 
of  solid  gold  (a  watch  charm) ,  rings,  knives, 
Spanish  coins,  and  ornaments  of  various 
kinds. 

Having  finally  reached  my  troop  and  re- 
ported for  duty,  I  joined  my  old  "  bunkies," 
Young  and  Turnbach,  and  learned  from 
37 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

them  that  the  soldiers  were  starving  to  death 
on  a  diet  coinmonly  known  as  "  canned 
Eagan,"  others  dubbed  it  "  embalmed 
beef  "  and  swore  that  no  cattle  were  ever 
taken  alive  that  supplied  such  meat,  as  they 
were  too  tough  to  surrender.  Suffice  it  to 
say  it  was  at  least  a  very  unwholesome  diet. 
The  British  bull-dog  "Jack,"  a  "blue 
ribbon  "  winner  that  had  been  purchased  at  a 
Londoii  dog-show  by  Norman  Parke,  a 
member  df  the  troop,  was  a  worthy 
"  mascot "  and  general  favorite  among  the 
soldiers  of  the  squadron.  Parke,  having 
been  detailed  as  orderly  to  Colonel  Castle- 
man,  which  necessitated  his  absence  from  the 
troop,  presented  the  dog  to  Trooper  Schuy- 
ler Ridge  way,  in  whom  "  Jack  "  found  an 
indulgent  master.  Schuyler,  in  order  to 
demonstrate  the  quality  of  the  "  encased 
mystery,"  had  a  can  of  it  tapped,  and  invited 
the  dog  to  sink  his  teeth  in  it.  "  Jack  "  with 
true  bull-dog  sagacity  refused,  realizing,  I 
presume,  that  it  would  be  attempted  suicide, 
and  withdrawing  a  short  distance  gave  vent 
to  his  spleen  by  a  wicked  growl,  after  which 
a  pitiful  whine  which  seemed  to  say,  "  Home 

3S 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


was  never  like  this."  Reed,  the  ranger,  said 
he  had  i)hiyed  the  starvation  game  before, 
even  to  chopping  wood  in  some  kind  lady's 
woodshed  for  his  dinner,  and  added  that 
Spanish  bullets  were  only  a  side  line  to  the 
present  grit  he  had  hit. 

Camp  life  in  the  tropics  in  active  service 
was  not  without  its  pleasures,  however,  and, 
as  fruit  grew  in  abundance,  sustenance  was 
maintained  even  if  it  was  of  the  Indian 
variety.  Details  of  mounted  scouting  par- 
ties galloped  through  the  mountains  daily, 
taking  observations  and  frequently  exchang- 
ing shots  witli  guerrillas,  who  in  riding  and 
marksmanship  were  no  match  for  the  Amer- 
ican troopers.  The  cavalry  squadron  figured 
in  several  skirmishes,  but  the  retreat  of  the 
Spanish  from  the  carbine  volleys  and  glitter- 
ing sabers  of  their  foe  put  them  to  rout,  so 
that  I  doubt  if  the  same  troops  ever  reas- 
sembled. 

At  last  the  news  of  the  armistice  was  re- 
ceived, hostilities  had  ceased,  and  prepara- 
tions for  the  trip  to  the  home  land  were 
begun.  Hither  and  thither  we  had  marched 
for  months,  in  cold  and  hot  climates,  slept  in 

39 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

rain  under  ponchos  with  saddle-bags  for 
pillows,  lived  on  the  scanty  rations  of  field 
service,  and  now  the  time  had  come  for  our 
return,  the  war  being  practically  over.  The 
transport  Mississippi^  a  miserable  specimen 
of  "  troop-ship,"  had  been  put  at  our  dis- 
posal, and  was  to  convey  the  greater  part  of 
General  Miles'  expedition  to  New  York 
City. 

After  striking  camp  and  loading  all  the 
equipage  of  war  accessories  onto  army 
schooners,  a  march  of  a  few  hours  brought 
the  cavalry  to  the  point  of  embarkation. 
Playa  Del  Ponce  presented  a  spectacle  of 
grand  military  activity.  Soldiers  represent- 
ing the  army  in  all  its  branches  were  busily 
engaged  in  storing  aboard  ship  the  munitions 
of  war  and  necessary  rations  for  the  home- 
ward bound  voyage.  The  artillery  and  cav- 
alry were  spared  the  irksome  duty  of  loading 
their  horses,  these  animals  being  left  behind 
for  the  relief  of  the  "  regulars."  When  all 
was  in  readiness  and  the  signal  given,  the 
"  homeward  bound  pennant "  was  flown  to 
the  breeze,  as  the  ship's  bell  tolled  seven. 
Steaming  northwest  over  a  sea  of  calm  saline 

40 


Soldier     Ashorr     and     Afloat 


billows,  three  cheers  from  the  deck  of  the 
transport  resounded  to  the  shore,  and,  as  the 
troops  wafted  adieu  to  this  verdant  island 
of  the  West  Indies,  it  was  with  silent  regret 
that  lack  of  opportunity  had  jjrevented  them 
from  accomplishing  the  notable  achieve- 
ments of  their  forefathers — but  such  are  the 
fortunes  of  war. 

Our  return  w^as  uneventful  until  we 
reached  Sandy  Hook,  where  the  transport 
was  met  and  convoyed  through  New  York 
Harbor  ])y  myriads  of  yachts,  launches,  and 
tugs  loaded  with  relatives  and  friends  of  the 
boys  who  had  offered  their  lives  for  their 
country  and  many  of  whom  the  grim  reaper 
had  grasped  from  loving  ties  and  the  com- 
radeship of  their  compatriots. 

The  reception  in  New  York  City  was  one 
grand  elaboration  of  hospitality,  evidenced 
by  the  demonstration  of  the  thousands  of 
people  who  thronged  the  landing  place. 
Numerous  bands  of  music  played  inspiring 
airs,  as  the  city's  fair  ladies  dispensed  chicken 
sandwiches  and  demijohns  of  wine  to  the 
soldiers,  while  others  fairly  covered  the 
squadron  with  garlands  of  beautiful  flowers. 

41 


Exploits   and    Adventures    of  a 

The  reception  in  New  York  lasted  about 
four  hours,  after  which  the  "  Governor's 
Troop,"  led  by  its  gallant  commander,  Cap- 
tain (now  Major)  Ott,  of  Harrisburg, 
Pennsylvania,  marched  to  and  boarded  a 
section  of  Pennsylvania  Railroad  coaches, 
and  was  ere  long  rolling  over  the  rails  toward 
the  capital  of  the  Keystone  State. 

On  the  arrival  at  Harrisburg,  the  home 
of  the  "  Governor's  Troop,"  an  immense 
demonstration  awaited  the  boys.  Leaving 
the  train  in  their  worn  habiliments  of  the 
jungle,  the  troopers  were  soon  dressed  in 
ranks,  answered  roll  call,  had  counted  off, 
and  were  marching  behind  a  band  of  music, 
under  a  bower  of  pyrotechnics  that  resem- 
bled a  mj^thological  scene  in  "  Hades."  After 
parading  through  the  principal  streets  of 
the  city,  the  troop  was  marched  to  the 
armory,  which  was  beautifully  decorated  for 
the  occasion;  here  the  battle-scarred  heroes 
of  a  successful  campaign  sat  down  to  a  ban- 
quet, over  which  an  host  of  Harrisburg's 
fair  maidens  presided.  Oh  for  a  moving 
picture  of  that  scene!  Each  soldier  wore  a 
vestige  of  the  pretty  silk  neckerchief  the 

42 


A    IKOOPER 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


llarrisburg  ladies  had  presented  him  with. 
Speeches  were  made  by  prominent  citizens, 
songs  were  sung  and  toasts  responded  to, 
and  it  was  with  a  feehng  of  deep  apprecia- 
tion that  tlic  troop  left  the  banquet  liall  to 
seek  a  niucli-needed  rest.  The  following  day 
was  spent  in  meeting  friends  and  relating 
episodes  of  the  campaign. 

The  Ilazletonian  complement  of  the 
"  Crovernor's  Troop  "  had  been  apprised  of 
a  demonstration  awaiting  them  at  their  home 
city,  and  upon  the  reception  of  the  pre- 
scribed two  months'  furlough,  departed  for 
the  scene  of  the  climax  to  the  campaign. 
This  ITazleton  greeting  was  the  most  enthu- 
siastic reception  of  all,  perhaps  because  this 
was  home.  Alighting  from  the  cars  amidst 
thousands  of  people  who  thronged  the  plat- 
form and  streets,  the  soldiers  were  met  by  a 
committee,  relatives,  and  friends,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  the  horses  provided 
for  tlie  troopers  were  reached.  As  each 
man  swung  into  the  saddle,  the  famous  old 
Liberty  Band  struck  up  a  march,  and  as  the 
procession,  consisting  of  the  Band,  Recep- 
tion   Committee,     Clergy,    Grand    Army, 

43 


Exploits    of  a   Soldier 

National  Guard,  Police,  Fire  Department, 
Secret  Organizations,  and  others,  turned  into 
the  main  street  of  the  city,  a  burst  of  exulta- 
tion extolled  the  welcome  home,  and  as  the 
line  of  march  advanced  between  thousands 
of  people  imder  a  bower  of  phosphorescence 
it  was  with  a  keen  sensibility  of  delight  that 
we  had  lived  to  enjoy  such  a  unique  and 
prodigious  reception.  A  sumptuous  ban- 
quet was  tendered  the  cavalrymen  in  the 
spacious  dining-hall  of  the  Central  Hotel, 
where  addresses  and  toasts  were  made  by 
prominent  Hazletonians,  terminating  a  suc- 
cessful campaign  of  the  "  Governor's 
Troop."  After  the  expiration  of  the  two 
months'  furlough,  this  troop  of  cavalry  was 
mustered  out  of  the  service  of  the  United 
States. 


II. 

On   Board   a   Man-of-war   from 
New  York  to  Morocco 


Admiral's  ( )rilcrly  on  the  U.  S.  Cruiser  New  York — 
A  Storm  on  the  Atlantic — Duties  of  a  Marine — The 
Author  Roads  his  own  Obituary — Under  the  Guns  of 
Gibraltar — A  Bull-fight  in  Spain — Pressing  an 
Indemnity  Against  the  Sultan  of  Morocco — An 
American  Subject  Burned  at  the  Stake  by  Moors — 
Burial  in  Morocco  of  a  Shipmate. 

The  Boxer  outbreak  in  China  in  1000 
attracted  the  attention  of  the  entire  civiHzed 
world,  and  was  the  incitement  that  inspired 
many  of  an  adventurous  turn  of  mind  to  cast 
their  fortunes  with  the  alhed  forces  in  sup- 
pressing the  depredations  of  tlie  Tartar 
tribes  in  the  land  of  the  Heathen  Cliince. 
In  August,  1900,  while  a  spectator  at  the 
Corbett-McCoy  bout,  in  "  Madison  Square 
Garden,"  Xew  York,  I  learned,  from  a 
chief  petty  ofTicer  of  the  battleship  Ma.ssa- 
chusetts,  that  the  United  States  cruiser  New 

45 


Exploits   and   Adventures    of  a 


York,  lying  in  dry  dock  at  the  Brooklyn 
Nav}^  Yard,  was  being  rapidly  prepared  to 
be  put  in  commission,  and  was  to  be  the 
*'  flag-ship  "  of  Rear  Admiral  Rodgers,  who 
was  destined  for  a  cruise  to  the  Chinese 
coast.  Upon  further  inquiries  at  the  Navy 
Yard,  I  heard  this  news  authentically  cor- 
roborated, and  at  once  determined  to  see  the 
Orient. 

A  battalion  of  marines  under  the  com- 
mand of  Major  Waller  had  won  laurels  in 
Tien  Tsin  and  Pekin,  being  among  the  first 
to  enter  the  Forbidden  City.  Keeping  tabs 
on  the  daily  progress  of  the  war,  I  became 
more  and  more  interested,  and,  having 
learned  that  marines  were  the  first  landing 
force  during  hostilities,  I  enlisted  in  this 
branch  of  the  service,  and  ere  long  was  in- 
stalled in  the  "  Lyceum  "  of  the  Brooklyn 
Navy  Yard  operating  telephone  switches. 
From  my  window  in  the  "  Lyceum  "  I  could 
gaze  on  the  sailors  who  were  rapidly  putting 
the  big  cruiser  in  readiness  for  her  cruise 
around  the  world ;  for,  contrary  to  expecta- 
tions, the  order  to  proceed  direct  to  China 
was  abrogated  in  lieu  of  an  indemnity  which 
required  pressure  in  ISIorocco. 

46 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

Having  made  application  for  tlic  "  niariiic 
guard  "  of  the  New  York,  which  consisted 
of  seventy-two  men,  one  captain,  and  one 
heutcnant,  I  was  very  much  pleased  when 
informed  that  my  application  had  been 
approved  of,  and  that  1  was  to  prepare  to 
board  the  vessel  in  the  capacity  of  "  orderly  " 
to  the  admiral.  I  was  relieved  from  duty  in 
the  "  Lyceum  "  and  ordered  to  join  the 
"  guard,"  which  had  been  undergoing  a 
2)rocess  of  special  drill. 

On  being  ordered  aboard  the  ship,  we  were 
assigned  to  quarters,  instructed  as  to  our 
stations  for  boat  drill,  fire  drill,  large  gim 
drill,  abandon  shij),  arm  and  away,  strip  ship 
for  action,  collision  drill,  and  the  positions  of 
aligimient  on  the  quarter-deck,  where  the 
"  present  arms,"  the  courtesy  extended  to 
military  and  civil  dignitaries  at  home  and 
abroad,  had  to  be  daily  executed. 

The  New  York,  which  had  been  the  "  flag- 
ship "  of  Rear  Admiral  Bunce,  who  com- 
manded the  "  Xorth  ^Vtlantic  Sfjuadroii," 
and  later  tlic  "  flag-ship  "  of  Rear  ^Vdmiral 
Sampson  at  the  battle  of  Santiago,  was  in 
1900  the  show  ship  of  the  navy,  making  a 

47 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

magnificent  appearance  while  under  way. 
She  carried  a  complement  of  six  eight-inch 
guns,  twelve  four-inch,  and  ten  six-pounders, 
and  had  a  speed  of  more  than  twenty-one 
knots  per  hour. 

A  feature  of  the  New  York  was  her  enor- 
mous engine  strength  compared  with  her 
weight,  the  battleship)  Indiana  developing 
nine  thousand  horse-power  on  a  ten  thou- 
sand two  hundred  ton  displacement,  while 
that  of  the  cruiser  New  York  was  seventeen 
thousand  horse-power  on  a  displacement  of 
eight  thousand  two  hundred  tons. 

The  day  having  arrived  for  placing  the 
vessel  in  commission,  a  galaxy  of  army  and 
navy  officers,  civilians,  and  beautiful  women 
assembled  on  the  quarter-deck,  which  was 
inclosed  and  draped  with  flags  of  all  nations. 
Orderlies  were  kept  busy  announcing  the 
arrival  of  the  guests  to  the  admiral  and  cap- 
tain, many  of  whose  names  included  exclu- 
sive members  of  New  York's  "  Four  Hun- 
dred," w^hose  ancestral  genealogies,  em- 
blazoned with  ensigns  of  heraldry,  adorn 
their  multitudinous — what  not  ? — though 
ofttimes,  let  it  be  known,  the  power  and 

48 


Soldirr     Ashore     and     Afloat 

lionor  behind  the  throne  ean  be  traced  to  the 
pnrehasing  power  of  filthy  hicre.  Not 
unhke  the  "  Sons  and  Danghters  of  the 
Kevohition,"  whose  sacred  heritage  and  por- 
tals have  been  defiled  by  the  presence  of  in- 
cognizable descendants  of  ancestors  who  in 
reality  were  nnloyal  to  the  colonies,  Tories 
of  King  George  III.,  some  of  whom  sat  in 
that  angiist  body  the  "  General  Assembly  " 
and  cried  Treason!  Treason!  as  Patrick 
Henry  introdnced  his  famous  resolutions  in 
denunciation  of  the  Stamp  Act,  and  in  a 
passionate  burst  of  eloquence  uttered  those 
never-to-be-forgotten  words,  "  Ca?sar  had 
his  Brutus,  Charles  the  First  his  Cromwell, 
and  George  the  Third  " — pausing  awhile 
during  the  interruption  by  Tories,  calmly 
added — "  may  profit  by  their  example." 

Wafting  adieu  to  old  Xew  York  town,  our 
sea-going  home  steamed  out  of  Xew  York 
harbor  and  down  along  the  xVtlantic  coast 
to  Hampton  Roads,  our  first  stop,  anchor- 
ing midway  between  Fortress  ^lonroe  and 
the  "  Hip  Raps,"  where  tons  of  coal  were 
placed  in  the  bunkers. 

Coaling  ship  is  the  most  disagreeable  work 

4  49 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


a  sailor  can  perform,  but,  as  the  task  is 
usually  accomplished  in  one  day,  each  man 
tackles  the  work  with  that  heroic  resolve 
which  has  so  characterized  the  American 
"  man-of-war's-man  "  in  battle. 

Immediately  after  coaling,  the  ship  is  thor- 
oughly cleansed  from  truck  to  kelson;  the 
decks  are  holy-stoned  and  the  berth  deck  is 
shackled,  after  which  the  men  take  a  thor- 
ough shower-bath,  don  immaculate  uniforms, 
and  all  has  the  refreshing  appearance  of  a 
swan  on  a  lake. 

The  essential  duty  of  a  "  marine "  on 
board  a  ship  is  to  preserve  order;  he  fulfils 
the  position  of  both  sailor  and  soldier,  and, 
while  he  is  sometimes  dubbed  a  leather-neck, 
on  account  of  his  tight-fitting  uniform,  by 
his  more  aquatically  uniformed  shipmate,  it 
is  nevertheless  noticeable  that  he  is  the  first 
to  cross  the  gang-plank  when  there  is  trouble 
in  the  wind;  and  the  number  of  "  medals  of 
honor "  and  "  certificates  of  merit "  that 
have  been  awarded  to  marines  since  1898  is 
the  mute  indubitable  evidence  of  his  fidelity 
and  bravery;  however,  this  is  not  to  be  con- 
strued in  any  way  to  detract  from  the  loyalty 
of  our  brave  "  Jack  tars." 


50 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


Our  ocean  voya^^c  Troni  the  iVtlantic  coast 
to  the  Fortress  of  Gibraltar  was  beset  with 
difficulties,  due  to  a  severe  storm  we  encoun- 
tered tlie  second  day  out,  in  which  one  of 
our  cutters  or  life-boats  was  washed  away. 
This  it  seems  was  picked  up  by  a  "  liner  " 
en  route  to  Havre,  France,  and,  as  we  were 
four  days  overdue  at  Gibraltar,  it  was  be- 
lieved that  the  cruiser  had  gone  down  with 
all  on  board.  Some  time  later  along  the 
African  coast,  it  was  amusing  to  read,  in  the 
Paris  edition  of  the  New  York  Herald,  our 
own  obituary,  and  to  see  the  picture  of  the 
"  flag-ship  "  and  her  crew  going  down  to 
"  Davy  Jones's  locker." 

The  storm  abated  as  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  ^ladeira  Islands,  but,  owing  to  our  being 
overdue  at  the  "  Rock,"  we  were  compelled 
to  pass  this  beautiful  })lacc  without  stopping. 
The  voyage  from  the  Madeiras  to  the  straits 
was  quite  calm,  and  we  were  again  able  to 
eat  soup  without  the  aid  of  a  dipper. 

When  off  duty  I  spent  a  great  deal  of 
time  playing  chess  and  readin*^-.  \Ve  liad  an 
excellent  library  stocked  with  tlie  best  edi- 
tions from  the  pens  of  the   most  famous 

51 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

authors;  besides  a  piano  and  excellent  per- 
formers, among  these  being  the  ship's 
printer,  E.  Ludwig,  well  known  prior  to  his 
enlistment  by  the  author. 

As  outlines  of  the  "  Pillars  of  Hercules  " 
appeared  on  the  horizon,  it  was  evident  that 
in  a  very  few  hours  we  would  be  plowing  the 
waters  of  the  great  Mediterranean  Sea,  The 
quartermaster  and  signal-men  were  busy 
getting  their  signal-flags  in  shape,  ammuni- 
tion was  hoisted  for  the  salute,  and  the 
marine  guard  and  band  were  busy  policing 
themselves  for  the  part  they  had  to  play  in 
entering  a  foreign  port. 

Passing  through  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar, 
which  separate  the  mainland  of  Europe  and 
Africa,  we  beheld,  looming  into  the  clouds, 
the  most  magnificent  and  impregnable  for- 
tress of  the  world,  Gibraltar. 

As  we  entered  the  bay  of  Algesiras,  the 
huge  guns  of  the  fortress  and  battleships 
of  various  nations  belched  forth  an  admiral's 
salute  of  thirteen  guns ;  these  were  responded 
to  by  the  American  "  flag-ship." 

Gibraltar  is  an  impregnable  promontory 
fortress,  seven  miles  around  at  the  base,  and 

52 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

i'ornis  tlic  soiitlicni  extremity  of  Spain.  It 
is  fourteen  liundred  and  I'orty  i'eet  high  at 
its  highest  point,  is  .s' lidded  with  disap2)ear- 
ing  guns,  and  its  honeycombed  caverns  con- 
tain munitions  of  war  for  a  campaign  of 
many  years. 

Tlie  popuhition  of  Gibraltar  is  composed 
of  EngHsh,  Spaniards,  Jews,  and  Moors.  A 
causey  separates  the  tow^n  from  the  main- 
land of  Spain.  The  British  side  is  patrolled 
by  British  soldiers,  who  are  so  close  to  the 
Spanish  sentries  that  the  challenge  can  be 
heard  at  night  by  either  side. 

We  remained  in  Gibraltar  ten  days,  and 
liad  the  ])leasure  of  meeting  a  large  number 
of  Knglish  soldiers  and  sailors  at  the  "  Royal 
Naval  Canteen,"  where  we  swapped  stories 
over  a  can  of  "  shandy  gaff,"  which  is  a  mix- 
ture of  stout  and  ginger  ale. 

At  tlie  solicitation  of  some  of  the  soldiers 
of  the  Royal  Artillery,  we  ^Vmericans  accom- 
panied them  to  the  town  of  Algesiras,  in 
Spain,  to  witness  a  bull-fight.  Engaging 
j)assage  to  a  point  of  landing  about  five  miles 
across 'the  bay,  we  embarked  with  a  2>cnt-up 
feeling  of  excitement,  overly  eager  to  see 

63 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  gay  Castilians  in  their  hohday  attire  turn 
out  en  masse  for  their  national  sport. 

On  our  arrival  in  town,  we  found  business 
practically  suspended,  and  all  making  their 
way  to  the  arena,  which  was  enclosed  by  a 
high  board  fence.  On  being  admitted,  we 
at  once  became  objects  of  considerable 
scrutiny,  as  the  war  fever  had  scarcely  died 
out. 

Venders  were  busy  disposing  of  their 
wares;  senoritas,  gayly  bedecked  in  flowers 
and  loud  colors,  seemed  to  bubble  over  with 
enthusiasm;  horsemen  galloped  through  the 
enclosure,  and  bands  of  music  thrilled  this 
novel  audience  with  inspiration.  As  we  took 
our  seats  and  patiently  awaited  the  on- 
slaught, a  sickening  silence  cast  its  pall  over 
this  picturesque  assemblage.  This  was 
momentary,  however,  as  a  blast  from  a  bugle 
was  followed  by  the  entrance  of  the  alguazil 
and  mounted  toreadors  in  costumes  of  velvet ; 
the  arrival  of  these  gladiators  of  the  arena 
was  heralded  with  a  tumult  of  cheers,  which 
became  deafening  as  the  gate  was  thrown 
open  and  the  bull  rushed  in. 

Mounted    picadors    were    stationed    in 

54 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


various  jjiirts  of  tlic  arena,  whose  duty  it  was 
to  infuriate  the  animal  hy  thrusting  ban- 
derillas,  or  spikes  with  ribbons  attached,  into 
the  animal's  shoulders,  others  waved  robes 
or  capes  for  the  same  effect.  Charge  after 
charge  was  made  on  the  matadore,  who 
gracefully  side-stepped  the  attack  and 
awaited  the  return  of  the  bull,  which  had 
become  frantic  from  the  sting  of  the  ban- 
derillas. 

The  last  charge  is  made  with  defiance,  but 
alas!  is  met  with  the  undaunted  courage  of 
the  matadore,  whose  fatal  blade  reaches  a 
vital  spot,  adding  another  victory  to  his  list 
of  successful  combats.  "Bravo!  Bravo!" 
yell  the  maddened  crowd,  as  the  victor  is 
showered  with  compliments  and  carried 
from  the  arena.  Preparations  immediately 
follow  for  a  continuance  of  this  semi-barbaric 
sport,  and  in  like  manner  each  encounter 
was  attended  with  the  same  skill  of  the  mata- 
dore and  enthusiasm  of  the  spectators. 

On  leaving  the  arena,  it  was  with  little 
wonder  at  the  Spanish  for  their  marked 
devotion  to  this  their  national  s])ort,  as  it 
proved  to  be  exceedingly  fascinating  and 
fraught  with  great  excitement. 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 


On  our  return  to  Gibraltar  we  journeyed 
to  the  naval  canteen,  where  sailors  and 
marines  of  the  British  battleships  Endymion 
and  Ben-how  were  laying  the  foundation  for 
a  session  of  joy,  the  Boer  war  being  the  chief 
topic  of  discussion. 

During  the  day  the  Governor- General  of 
Gibraltar,  Sir  George  White,  whose  ap- 
pointment had  recently  followed  his  winning 
the  "  Victoria  Cross  "  while  in  command  of 
troops  in  South  Africa,  had  been  entertained 
on  board  the  American  ship,  in  company 
with  other  notables  of  the  army  and  navy. 

After  the  ship  had  been  coaled  and  various 
stores  taken  aboard,  anchors  were  weighed 
and  the  vessel  steamed  for  Morocco,  a  sul- 
tanate on  the  northwest  coast  of  Africa.  On 
reaching  the  straits  the  signal  was  given  to 
strip  ship  for  action,  all  unnecessary  impedi- 
ment was  removed  from  the  gun-decks  and 
superstructure,  awnings  were  furled  and 
secured  by  gasket,  spars  and  davits  lowered 
and  all  secured  in  places  of  safety,  while  the 
big  eight-inch  turret  guns  free  from  tom- 
pions  were  trained  abeam  or  at  right  angles 
to  the  ship's  keel. 

56 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  Tangier,  the 
customary  salute  was  fired;  this  was 
answered  by  the  crumbhng  old  forts  of  the 
^Nloors,  relics  of  the  Dark  Ages  and  monu- 
ments of  antiquity. 

As  the  cruiser  anchored  with  her  starboard 
battery  trained  on  the  city,  it  was  evident 
tliat  the  visit  w^as  of  far  greater  import  than 
that  of  a  mere  social  call. 

The  pressure  of  an  indemnity  is  a  matter 
of  deep  concern,  the  wilful  disregard  of 
which  is  usually  followed  by  hostilities. 
When  one  sovereign  nation  calls  on  another 
sovereign  nation  to  apologize,  the  first 
nation  is  expected  to  resort  to  arms  if  the 
apology  is  not  forthcoming.  Though  not 
representing  a  sovereign  nation,  the  mission 
of  the  Xezc  York  in  the  harbor  of  Tangier 
was  clearly  perceptible  as  an  expounder  of 
a  precedent. 

The  grand  vizier  of  the  Sultan  of  Morocco 
had  made  himself  obnoxious  to  America  by 
refusing  an  interview  with  ^Ir.  Gummere, 
United  States  consul  at  the  port  of  Tangier. 
For  this  discourtesy  and  other  claims  of  the 
United  States  long  pending  against  the  gov- 

67 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

ernment  of  ^lorocco,  it  was  found  necessary 
to  despatch  a  war-ship  to  put  pressure  on 
the  Moors. 

The  history  of  the  conflicts  between  the 
Moors  and  the  United  States  had  covered  a 
period  of  more  than  one  hundred  years, 
dating  back  to  the  naval  wars  of  the  infant 
nation  with  the  Mediterranean  pirates.  Dis- 
criminations against  Americans  and  inter- 
ference by  officials  of  the  Sultan  with  Amer- 
icans doing  business  in  Morocco  were  largely 
due  to  the  ignorance  of  the  Moors  as  to  the 
power  of  the  United  States. 

Claim  after  claim  was  ignored  by  the 
Sultan.  In  1897,  in  order  to  bring  this 
sublime  potentate  to  a  realizing  sense  of  the 
importance  of  recognizing  the  demands  of 
the  United  States,  the  United  States  cruisers 
Raleigh  and  San  Francisco,  in  command  of 
Rear  Admiral  Self  ridge,  were  ordered  from 
Smyrna  to  Tangier  for  the  purpose  of  lend- 
ing support  to  Consul-General  Burke.  This 
act  had  its  effect,  as  promises  were  given  that 
in  the  future  discriminations  would  be 
eradicated. 

In  June,  1900,  however,  the  strife  was 

68 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


rentwcil  when  ^larciis  Kzegiii,  wlio  was  u 
naturalized  ^Vnierican  citizen  and  manager 
of  the  Fez  branch  of  the  French  lirni  of 
Braunseliweig  and  Co.,  while  riding  horse- 
back through  a  narrow  street  in  Fez,  jolted 
against  the  mule  of  a  Moroccan  religious 
fanatic;  a  dispute  ensued,  the  crowd  siding 
with  the  jNIoor.  In  self-defence  Ezegui  drew 
his  revolver  and  fired,  wounding  a  native. 
This  was  the  signal  for  a  general  attack  on 
the  American;  he  received  a  dozen  knife 
wounds,  and  was  burned  at  a  stake  before 
life  had  become  extinct. 

For  this  atrocious  crime  the  United  States 
asked  an  indemnity  of  $5000  and  the  punish- 
ment of  the  offenders;  the  request  received 
little  adherence  by  the  Moorish  government; 
then  the  State  Department  demanded  $5000 
for  the  failure  of  ^Morocco  to  punish  the 
offenders. 

After  much  dij^lomatic  correspondence 
between  Washington  and  Fez,  the  Moroccan 
capital,  the  United  States  battleship  Ken- 
tuck  i/  was  ordered  across  the  Atlantic  to 
procure  the  necessary  demands.  In  this  she 
was  partially  successful,  though  failing  to 

69 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

negotiate  the  demands  in  their  entirety. 
Time  dragged  on  and  promises  remained 
unfulfilled.  The  capital  was  moved  time  and 
again  between  the  cities  of  Tangier  and  Fez 
purposely  to  evade  negotiations  with  the 
United  States.  It  remained  for  the  New 
York  to  consummate  a  successful  issue,  in 
the  undertaking  of  which  she  was  ably  com- 
manded by  Rear  Admiral  Frederick 
Rodgers,  whose  iron-willed  ancestors  had 
bequeathed  him  a  priceless  heritage, — the 
courage  of  his  convictions  combined  with 
executive  diplomacy. 

On  the  reception  of  Consul-General  Gum- 
mere  by  the  admiral,  it  became  known  adven- 
titiously that  the  grand  vizier  of  his  Sultanic 
x.Iajesty,  in  company  with  the  Sultan,  had 
departed  for  the  city  of  Fez.  This  they 
called  moving  the  capital.  With  the  afore, 
aft,  and  waist  eight-inch  "  long  toms " 
trained  idly  on  the  city  and  forts.  Admiral 
Rodgers,  with  flag-officers  and  escort  and 
accompanied  by  Consul  Gummere,  departed 
on  a  small  British  yacht  for  the  city  of  Fez, 
with  the  determination  to  promulgate  his 
mission  to  his   excellency's  government, — 

60 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


namely,  its  clioiec  ol"  a  satisfactory  adjust- 
ment of  the  indemnity  or  the  unconditional 
alternate:  a  bombardment.  It  is  needless 
to  say  that  this  was  the  final  negotiation, 
terminating  with  a  successful  and  honorable 
issue. 

A  member  of  the  ship's  crew  having 
crossed  the  "  great  divide,"  permission  for 
the  obsequies  and  burial  in  Tangier  w^as 
granted.  In  a  casl<et  draped  with  the  xVmer- 
ican  colors,  the  body  was  conveyed  by  launch 
to  the  beach,  where  jjall-bearers,  members  of 
the  departed  sailor's  division,  took  charge  of 
the  conveyance  to  the  cemetery.  With 
muffled  drums  the  band  led  oft\  playing  a 
solemn  funeral  dirge,  followed  by  the  pro- 
cession, which  included  an  escort  of  honor 
and  firing  squad  of  marines. 

A  circuitous  route  of  three  miles  through 
narrow  streets,  with  buildings  crumbling  to 
decay  and  indicative  of  architecture  of  an 
early  period,  led  us  to  the  cemetery  on  a 
shady  plateau  near  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 
Here  the  cortege  lialtcd,  and  the  last  rites 
were  solemnized  by  Chaplain  Chidwiek  of 
the  New  York,  well  known  as  the  late  chap- 
el 


Exploits   of  a   Soldier 


lain  of  the  ill-fated  battleship  Maine.  Three 
volleys  were  fired  over  the  sailor's  grave,  and 
the  services  closed  impressively  with  the 
sound  of  "  taps,"  "  lights  out." 

As  the  band  struck  up  "In  the  good  old 
summer-time,"  ranks  were  broken,  and  the 
men  roamed  at  will  through  the  narrow, 
spicy-scented  streets,  thronged  with  semi- 
barbarians,  rough-riding  vassals  of  the 
Sultan  costumed  in  turbans,  sandals,  and 
flowing  robes,  whose  contempt  for  all  for- 
eigners cannot  brook  restraint.  It  was  a 
pleasant  relief  to  escape  the  fumes  of  this 
incensed  city,  to  inhale  the  fresh  ozone 
aboard  the  man-of-war. 

On  departing  from  Morocco,  our  cruise 
led  to  ports  along  the  coast  of  the  great 
Mediterranean  Sea. 


III. 

Thrillinc:  Adventure  with  Moors 
in  the   "Kasbah"  of  Ali^iers 


Moonlight  on  the  Mediterranean — Meeting  with 
O'Mally,  a  Pedestrian  of  the  Globe — "Birds  of  a 
Feather"  in  the  Moulin  Rouge — A  Midnight  Hold-up 
by  Moors;  O'Mally  with  Gendarmes  and  French 
Soldiers  to  the  Rescue — A  Pitched  Battle  in  which 
Blood  Flows  Freely — French  Soldiers  Drink  the  Health 
of  the  United  States — Malta  and  Singers  of  the 
"Yama  Yama." 

A  CALM  moonlight  night  on  the  waters  of 
the  Mediterranean  Sea  is  the  most  awe- 
inspiring  feeling  that  can  be  manifested  in 
the  heart  of  a  man-of-war's-man.  The  dark 
blue  billows,  reseml)ling  a  car2)et  of  velvet, 
surging  in  mountainous  swells,  seem  to 
reflect  the  glitter  of  every  star  in  the  celestial 
firmament,  while  moonbeams  dance  in 
shadowy  vistas  o'er  the  surface  of  the  deep. 
It  was  on  such  a  night  that  our  cruiser 
plowed  her  course  from  Palermo,  Sicily,  and 

63 


Exploits   and    Adventures    of  a 

entered  the  land-locked  harbor  of  the  quaint 
old  capital  of  Algeria. 

I  can  vividly  remember  the  embodiment 
of  contentment  with  which  I  was  possessed 
as  I  leaned  on  the  taffrail  of  the  ship  and 
beheld  the  illuminated  city  of  Algiers,  rising 
from  the  water's  edge  diagonally  to  an  im- 
mense altitude. 

Life-buoys  dotted  the  harbor,  and  a  small 
light-house  played  a  search-light  to  our 
anchorage.  After  the  anchors  had  been  cast, 
booms  spread,  the  gig,  barge,  and  steam- 
launches  lowered,  the  deep  stentorian  voice 
of  the  boatswain's  mate  could  be  heard 
through  the  ship,  piping  silence  about  the 
deck ;  taps  had  been  sounded,  and  all  except 
those  on  duty  were  supposed  to  be  swinging 
in  their  hammocks. 

With  the  loud  report  of  the  morning  gun 
could  be  heard  "  Jimmy-legs,"  the  master 
at  arms,  as  he  made  his  way  through  the 
berth-decks,  singing  his  daily  ditty,  "  Rise, 
shine,  and  lash  up."  This,  repeated  rapidly 
for  a  period  of  five  minutes,  was  likened  unto 
a  band  of  colored  brethren  at  a  Georgia 
camp-meeting   hilariously    singing,    "  Rise, 

64 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

shine,  and  give  God  the  glory,  glory,"  et 
cetera.  In  fifteen  minutes  every  hammock 
liad  to  be  lashed  according  to  navy  regula- 
tions and  stored  away  in  the  hammock 
nettings. 

After  breakfast  in  port,  every  man  must 
appear  military.  Uniforms  must  be  pressed, 
buttons  and  shoes  polished,  and  accoutre- 
ments ready  for  inspection,  for  at  eight  bells 
the  colors  are  hoisted,  the  National  air  is 
played  by  the  band,  and  visits  of  courtesy 
commence  between  the  various  fleets  and 
shore  officers. 

The  ship's  band  renders  music  three  times 
daily  in  port,  and  visiting  parties  are  con- 
ducted througli  the  ship.  A  large  number 
of  bum-boats,  with  their  venders  of  fruit  and 
curios,  always  surround  the  ship;  these 
people  are  an  interesting  class  and  present  a 
picturesque  scene,  with  their  quaint  cos- 
tumes, noisy  chatter,  and  cargo  of  varieties. 

As  in  all  other  ports,  the  men  entitled  to 
"  liberty  "  (a  word  used  to  designate  shore 
leave)  make  their  preparation  early,  then 
await  the  noon  hour,  when  the  boatswain's 
mate  pipes  his  whistle,  and  cries  out:    "  Lay 

5  65 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

aft  all  the  liberty  party."  All  going  ashore 
fall  in,  in  double  rank  on  the  quarter-deck, 
where  they  answer  their  names  and  pass 
down  the  gangway  and  into  boats,  in  which 
they  are  conveyed  ashore,  where  the  boys 
cut  loose  from  discipline  and  nothing  is  too 
ffood  for  "  Jack." 

On  our  first  day  in  the  harbor  of  Algiers  I 
was  on  duty,  and  among  other  announce- 
ments I  had  to  make  to  the  admiral  was  the 
announcement  of  one  Mr.  O'Maliy,  a  pedes- 
trian from  San  Francisco,  California,  who 
desired  an  interview  with  the  admiral  of  the 
flag-ship  New  York. 

Mr.  O'Maliy  was  walking  around  the 
world  for  a  wager;  he  had  covered  the  dis- 
tance from  San  Francisco  to  New  York, 
had  walked  through  Europe,  and  was  at  this 
time  making  his  way  through  Africa.  He 
had  come  on  board  the  American  ship  to 
have  Admiral  Rodgers  sign  his  credentials 
showing  he  had  been  at  this  point  in  Africa 
on  this  particular  date.  At  the  close  of  the 
interview  the  admiral  ordered  me  to  show 
our  distinguished  perambulator  through  the 
ship.     I  found  him  to  be  a  very  congenial 

66 


Solclirr     Ashore     and     Afloat 

I't'llow,  and  was  very  much  interested  witli 
his  stories  of  his  travels  hy  foot. 

Accompanied  by  his  French  interpreter, 
we  started  throiifj^h  the  vessel,  I  explaining 
everything  of  interest  to  their  apparent  sat- 
isfaction, after  which  we  returned  to  the 
quarter-deck,  and,  after  exchanging  cards, 
Mr.  O'^Ially  and  his  guide  departed  for  the 
city,  stating  that  he  would  probably  meet  me 
in  Algiers  the  following  day,  where  I  would 
be  on  shore  leave. 

The  next  day,  accompanied  by  five  other 
marines,  with  that  almost  uncontrollable 
desire  for  pleasure  and  excitement  known 
only  by  the  men  who  undergo  the  rigid  dis- 
cipline of  the  navy,  1  boarded  a  sampan  and 
was  sculled  ashore,  where  numerous  guides, 
always  in  evidence  in  foreign  ports,  offered 
to  conduct  us  through  the  labyrinths  of  gay- 
ety.  Waving  aside  these  pests,  we  ascended 
the  stone  steps  leading  to  the  j)laza  over- 
looking the  bay  and  a  grand  boulevard. 
This  plaza  was  thronged  witli  pedestrians 
and  efjuipages  of  tlie  civic  and  military, 
I'Vench  and  Moorish  ofTicers,  gendarmes, 
tourists,    fakirs,    fortune-tellers,    IJedouins, 

67 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 

and  beggars,  commingled,  forming  a  most 
cosmopolitan  scene.  Seeking  an  exchange, 
we  converted  some  money  into  centimes, 
sous,  francs,  and  napoleons,  and,  after  pur- 
chasing some  relics  from  the  bazaars,  en- 
gaged landaus  and  proceeded  to  see  the 
sights  of  this  quaint  African  city. 

Arabs,  Moors,  Spaniards,  Jews,  French, 
Germans,  Maltese,  and  Italians — in  fact, 
every  nationality  extant — seem  to  be  repre- 
sented here. 

The  City  of  Algiers  was  built  about  935 
A.D.,  was  poorly  governed  by  a  long  succes- 
sion of  Turkish  deys,  and  fell  under  the 
yoke  of  French  rule  in  1830,  obliterating 
the  despotism  which  had  long  existed. 

The  Boulevards,  beautifully  adorned  with 
arcades  and  lined  on  either  side  with  orange 
and  lime  trees,  are  the  scenes  of  magnificent 
equipages  drawn  by  blooded  Arabian  horses. 

The  heat,  though  at  times  intense,  is  miti- 
gated by  a  delightful  cool  sea-breeze. 

The  principal  places  of  interest  are  the 
French  bazaars,  the  Catholic  cathedral,  the 
hot  baths  of  Hammam  Phira,  the  market- 
place,  casino,    public    bath,    coffee-houses, 

68 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

tlieatrcs,  bank,  quarters  ol'  tlic  soldiers  of 
the  foreign  legion,  the  ^loulin  Kouge,  iden- 
tical with  the  famous  "  Red  ^Mill  "  of  Paris, 
where  "  birds  of  a  feather  flock  together," 
and  where  L'amour  ct  la  fumee  ne  peuvent 
sc  cachcr. 

Discharging  our  landaus,  we  journeyed 
through  the  Rue  Bab  Azoun,  passing  here 
and  there  groups  of  French  and  ^loorish 
soldiers,  and  occasionally  brushing  against 
women  of  the  true  faith,  whose  veils  hide 
many  a  beautiful  face. 

In  the  cabarets  or  cafes  which  line  the 
plazas,  French  soldiers  can  frequently  be 
heard  singing  the  national  air  of  France,  the 
''  31arseillaise."  The  cosmopolites  who  com- 
prise the  foreign  legion  are  an  interesting 
body  of  soldiers,  representing  all  nations, 
but  serving  under  the  dominion  of  the 
French  government.  Entering  a  cabaret 
where  a  game  of  roulette  was  in  progress, 
we  marines  took  a  chance  on  the  roll  of  the  jl 

ivory  ball,  in  which  some  of  the  party  in- 
creased their  wealth  considerably.  xVbout 
every  fourth  turn  of  the  ball,  wine  was  dis- 
pensed.   I  had  been  very  lucky  in  my  play, 

09 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

having  several  times  picked  the  number, 
column,  and  color  at  the  same  time,  to  the 
great  disgust  of  the  croupier,  whose  radiant 
smile  beams  only  when  the  wheel  wins. 

As  conversation  had  become  boisterous 
and  my  luck  had  taken  a  sudden  turn,  I 
cashed  in,  and,  after  thanking  the  croupier 
for  his  kind  donations,  whose  smile  por- 
trayed a  feeling  of  derision,  I  made  my  exit. 

After  depositing  for  safe  keeping,  in  one 
of  the  leading  hotels,  numerous  curios  and 
several  hundred  dollars  in  French  currency, 
I  roved  at  random  through  the  city  without 
any  special  point  of  direction. 

Having  heard  a  great  deal  about  the  inter- 
esting sights  to  be  seen  in  the  "  Kasbah,"  the 
JNIoorish  quarter,  which  is  the  ancient  for- 
tress of  the  deys  and  commands  a  view  of 
the  city  from  a  height  of  five  hundred  feet 
above  sea  level,  I  ventured  to  this  weird 
section  of  the  city.  Climbing  the  long  wind- 
ing stairway,  or  steps  of  stone,  I  soon  found 
mj^self  encompassed  by  a  collection  of  wild- 
looking  Moors  in  flowing  robes,  turbans, 
and  sandals,  the  women  similarly  dressed, 
whose  veiled  faces  showed  only  their  eyes, 

70 


Soldier    Ashore     !ancl    Afloat 


and  the  artistic  tattooiiio-  in  the  centre  of 
their  eyebrows,  pranced  through  dimly 
h^i>lited  lanes,  like  Eip  \^an  Winkle's  hoh- 
goi)hns  of  the  Catskills. 

lieing-  unable  to  hold  conversation  with 
these  barbarians,  I  contented  myself  with 
being  a  silent  spectator  of  their  grotesque 
actions. 

After  making  the  rounds  of  various  places 
of  interest,  where  it  was  distinctly  obvious 
that  I  was  an  unwelcome  visitor,  I  decided 
to  return  to  the  better-lighted  and  more 
civilized  plazas  of  the  city.  As  I  tried  to 
ligiH'e  out  my  bearings  on  an  imaginary  com- 
pass, I  became  bewildered,  and  in  conse- 
quence followed  any  street  which  had  an 
incline. 

From  the  main  street  of  the  "  Kasbah  " 
are  numerous  short  streets  or  lanes,  which 
seem  to  have  no  connection  with  other 
streets,  terminating  at  the  entrance  to  a 
building.  I  had  tried  various  ways  to  reach 
the  steps  I  liad  climbed,  without  success,  and 
here  realized  the  importance  of  having  a 
guide  or  an  interpreter.  Finally  I  sighted 
the  rays  of  a  search-light,  and  later  a  light 

71 


Exploits   and    Adventures    of  a 


on  the  mainmast  of  a  merchant  marine  enter- 
ing the  bay.  Following  in  the  direction  of 
this  light,  I  reached  a  badly  lighted  portion 
of  this  section  of  the  city  overlooking  a  preci- 
pice, when,  without  a  semblance  of  warning, 
my  arms  and  feet  were  pinioned,  I  was 
gagged  with  a  roll  of  hemp,  which  was 
placed  under  my  chin  and  drawn  taut  around 
my  neck.  I  made  a  desperate  struggle,  but 
was  helpless  without  the  use  of  my  arms, 
and  was  compelled  to  yield  when  a  blood- 
thirsty brigand  placed  the  point  of  a  dirk 
against  the  spring  of  my  affections, — 
namely,  the  region  of  my  solar  plexus;  and 
it  is  needless  to  say  that  "  to  slow  music  "  I 
was  relieved  of  my  personal  possessions, 
including  my  watch,  chain,  finger-ring,  keys, 
money,  letters,  and  trinkets,  by  six  Moorish 
brigands,  who  kindly  refrained  from  casting 
me  over  the  precipice.  As  they  broke  away, 
I  was  left  to  ponder  in  amazement. 

It  was  absolutely  futile  for  me  to  think 
of  an  attempt  at  anything  except  that  of 
securing  myself  and  reaching  the  heart  of 
the  city.  At  this  juncture,  and  to  my  great 
surprise,  I  was  delighted  to  see,  coming  out 

72 


Seedier     Ashorr     and     Afloat 


of  one  of  the  narrow  streets,  my  friend  Mr. 
O'Mally  the  pedestrian  and  liis  interpreter. 
Kecognizing  him  instantly,  I  informed  him 
as  to  wliat  liad  liappened,  which  brought  a 
cry  from  his  interpreter  for  the  gendarmes 
and  soldiers.  In  a  few  moments  the  soldiers 
and  police  had  arrived,  and  I  led  them  in 
the  direction  the  bandits  had  taken,  but  at 
night  it  is  impossi])le  to  distinguish  one 
^loor  from  another,  for  like  Chinese  they  all 
look  alike  at  night;  therefore,  the  soldiers 
contented  themselves  in  beating  them  indis- 
criminately, as  the  Moor  is  the  French  sol- 
dier's bitterest  enemy. 

These  soldiers,  unlike  the  American  sol- 
dier, carry  their  side  arms  when  off  duty, 
and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  gen- 
darmes prevented  some  of  the  ]Moors  from 
being  killed.  At  one  stage  of  the  game  we 
had  a  battle  royal,  and  there  are  a  number 
of  Moors  in  the  "  Kasbah  "  who  carry  scars 
as  evidence  of  this  night's  fracas. 

On  our  return  to  the  plaza,  I  discovered 
that  besides  leaving  the  buttons  on  my  blouse 
the  rob})ers  had  overlooked  two  gold  napo- 
leons which  1  carried  in  the  watch-pocket  of 

73 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

my  trousers,  and,  as  the  French  soldiers  were 
not  averse  to  accepting  a  potion  of  wine  for 
their  services,  it  was  not  long  before  we  were 
drinking  to  the  health  of  the  United  States 
and  the  French  Republic. 

Mr.  O'Mally  and  his  guide  left  the  party 
in  the  "  wee  sma  "  hours  of  the  morning, 
and,  as  three  years  intervened  before  my 
return  to  America,  I  lost  all  trace  of  this 
interesting  gentleman. 

Next  day  while  returning  to  my  ship,  I 
received  the  intelligence  that  the  other 
marines  who  had  accompanied  me  ashore  had 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  gendarmes  for 
destroying  the  roulette-wheel  and  creating 
a  general  "  rough  house,"  due,  they  claimed, 
to  crooked  work  on  the  part  of  the  croupier. 
Later  in  the  day  on  paying  a  small  fine  they 
were  released. 

Our  stay  in  Algiers  covered  a  period  of 
ten  daj'^s,  which  included  Easter  Sunday. 
This  was  a  gala  day  on  the  plazas  and  along 
the  Boulevard;  the  services  in  the  French 
cathedral  were  performed  with  great  pomp 
and  ceremony;  flowers  were  banked  in  pro- 
fusion, while  the  singing  of  the  choir  was 
decidedly  of  a  rare  quality. 

74 


Soldi  IT     Ashore     and     Afloat 

Before  leaving  this  memorable  city  1  had 
the  pleasure  t)i'  attending  a  French  mas- 
querade ball  in  the  Rue  de  Rome,  where 
Parisian  dancing  novelties  were  introduced 
and  where  fantastic  costumes  had  no  limit. 

The  last  day  in  ^Algiers  was  given  to  a 
reception,  aboard  the  ship,  to  the  foreign 
legations.  As  usual  on  these  occasions,  the 
ship  was  gayly  decorated  with  flags  of  all 
nations.  Easter  lilies,  which  had  been  pre- 
sented to  the  admiral  by  ^Vlgerians,  fairly 
covered  the  quarter-deck.  Dancing  con- 
tinued throughout  the  evening,  the  guests 
departing  at  midnight  to  the  strains  of  the 
"  Marseillaise."  A  few  hours  later  anchors 
were  weighed,  and,  under  a  beautiful  pale 
moonlight,  our  cruiser  steamed  out  of  the 
harbor,  carrying  with  it  everlasting  memo- 
ries of  the  picturesque  City  of  Algiers. 

After  a  cruise  of  four  days  the  Island  of 
Gozo  was  sighted,  and  ere  long  we  had 
entered  and  anchored  in  Valetta,  the  capital 
of  Malta.  A  large  British  fleet  lay  anchored 
here,  also  a  yacht  having  on  board  his  royal 
personage  "  The  King  of  Siam,"  who  was 
making  a  cruise  of  the  ^lediterranean  Sea. 

75 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


"  The  Duke  and  Duchess  of  York,"  on  board 
the  Ophir  bound  for  AustraHa,  for  the  open- 
ing of  ParHament,  was  also  sighted  in  the 
Mediterranean  Sea. 

The  Island  of  Malta  is  of  Arabic  origin, 
but  at  present  an  English  possession.  It  is 
frequently  mentioned  in  Biblical  history, 
having  been  conquered  by  the  Romans  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years  before  the  birth  of 
Christ. 

Near  the  City  of  Valetta  a  spot  is  pointed 
out  as  having  been  the  place  where  Paul  the 
Apostle's  ship  was  wrecked. 

I  heard  Captain  McKenzie  of  the  New 
York  remark  to  the  admiral  that  Malta  is 
the  only  place  where  a  Jew  cannot  prosper, 
as  a  Maltese  will  beat  a  Jew. 

The  principal  sights  of  Malta  are  the 
Strada  san  Giovanni  in  Valetta,  a  wide  stone 
stairway  lined  on  either  side  with  buildings 
of  ancient  architecture,  the  ruins  of  a  Roman 
villa  and  the  Beggar's  Stairs.  The  Maltese 
are  a  musically  inclined  people,  and  at  night 
it  was  very  inspiring  to  hear  the  young 
people,  as  they  coursed  around  the  ship  in 
"  gondolas,"    singing    selections    from    the 

76 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

famous  "  La  Traviata  "  to  the  accompani- 
ment of  mandolins  and  guitars,  invariably 
offering  as  an  encore,  the  ever  beautiful, 
Venetian  "  Yama  Yama,"  famous  for  ages 
along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 
It  was  M'ith  regret  that  Alexandria,  our 
next  port,  was  to  end  our  cruise  on  this 
magnificent  body  of  water. 


IV. 

From  the   Pyramids   of  Egypt 
to  Singapore 

The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh — The  Sphinx — A  Famous 
Relic  of  the  Honeymoon  of  Cleopatra  and  Mark 
Antony — Cairo — Camel  Caravansary  en  route  from 
Syria  to  Cairo — Suez  Canal — Red  Sea — Mt.  Sinai — 
Aden — A  Monsoon  in  the  Indian  Ocean — Singalese 
of  Ceylon — Singapore. 

On  the  arrival  of  our  ship  at  Port  Said, 
Egypt,  the  haven  of  beach-combers  and  the 
most  immoral  city  on  the  face  of  the  eartli, 
preparations  were  at  once  made  for  coaling 
ship.  Lighters  loaded  with  coal  v/ere  towed 
alongside,  and  natives  of  the  Nubian  Desert 
relieved  the  crew  of  this  detestable  task. 
Men  were  granted  liberty  with  the  privilege 
of  visiting  Jerusalem  or  Cairo.  It  being 
necessary  to  travel  by  boat  a  long  distance 
to  Jaffa  in  order  to  get  a  train  for  the  Hol}^ 
Land,  I  decided  to  spend  the  time  in  seeing 
the  sights  of  Cairo,  the  Pyramids,  Sphinx, 
and  the  Nile. 

78 


Exi)loits   of  a   Soldier 

ScfuriiiL!;  traii.s|)()rlalion,  1  hoarded  a  train 
lor  tlic  Kgyptlaii  capital;  not  a  very  pleas- 
ant trip,  however,  as  the  heat  was  intense, 
and  thick  gusts  of  dust  were  continually 
hlown  from  the  Sahara  and  Nubian  Deserts. 

The  iirst  novel  sight  tliat  met  my  gaze  was 
a  camel  caravansary  witli  a  band  of  Arabs  on 
their  way  from  Cairo  to  Syria.  Upon  enter- 
ing the  city,  the  Arabic  architecture  was  the 
first  to  attract  my  attention,  the  mosques 
and  minarets  particularly  appearing  promi- 
nent. The  streets  were  thronged  with  tour- 
ists of  all  nations;  camels  wending  their  way 
and  donkeys  for  hire  or  sale  at  every  corner 
gave  the  city  tlie  aspect  of  the  "  Far  East." 

I  visited  the  Sacred  (hardens  of  the 
"  Howling  Dervishes,"  the  tombs  of  the 
Caliphs,  an  ostrich-breeding  house,  "  Wells 
of  ]Moses,"  the  mosque  of  the  wSultan  Hassan, 
and  several  museums  containing  I'elics  of 
priceless  value  dating  back  to  dynasties 
before  the  birth  of  Christ. 

In  She])hard\s  Hotel,  Napoleon's  liead- 
c|uarters  during  his  campaign  in  Kgypt,  I 
saw,  guarded  with  jealous  care,  tlie  mag- 
nificent catamaran  or  gondola  in  which  the 

79 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

Egyptian  Queen  Cleopatra  cruised  the  Nile 
during  her  ostentatious  honeymoon  with 
Mark  Antony. 

After  visiting  the  citadel  and  places  of 
less  interest,  I  j  ourneyed  to  the  streets  where 
the  music  of  the  tomtoms  was  attracting 
attention.  The  shades  of  night  having  fallen 
and  my  appetite  being  keen,  I  sauntered  into 
an  Arabian  cafe  for  dinner,  where  a  string 
of  Egyptian  dancers  amused  the  guests  with 
the  muscle-dance,  far  surpassing  "  Little 
Egypt "  or  "  The  Girl  in  Blue."  These 
dancers  are  serious  in  their  art,  and  to 
snicker  at  them  is  to  manifest  ridicule  and 
is  considered  an  unpardonable  breach  of 
manners. 

After  my  "  Seel}^  dinner,"  every  course  of 
which  was  served  quite  warm,  I  repaired  to 
my  hotel  and  retired  for  the  night. 

The  following  day  I  engaged  a  hack  and 
journeyed  across  the  grand  bridge  of  the 
Nile  to  the  Pyramids  and  Sphinx.  These 
landmarks  of  prehistoric  ages,  seventy  in 
number  and  considered  one  of  the  seven 
wonders  of  the  world,  can  be  seen  from  a 
great  distance  looming  up  in  the  desert. 

80 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


The  Pyraniicls  of  Gizch,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Nile,  are  the  largest  of  the  group. 
The  first  or  Great  Pyramid  covers  thirteen 
acres  at  the  base,  and  is  nearly  five  hundred 
feet  high;  it  is  honeycombed,  and  contains 
the  remains  of  tlie  ancient  rulers  of  Egypt. 
One  hundred  thousand  men  were  employed 
thirty  years  in  its  construction. 

Following  our  guide  through  the  cavern- 
ous catacombs,  we  finally  reached  the  sar- 
cophagus of  Cheops,  who  ruled  Egypt 
twenty-five  dynasties  before  the  Christian 
era.  After  a  random  tramp  of  more  than  an 
hour  through  this  dreary  dark  abode,  we  re- 
turned to  the  light  of  day,  and,  climbing  the 
Pyramid,  reached  a  point  from  where  Xaj^o- 
leon  reviewed  his  troops  after  his  campaign 
against  the  ^Mamelukes. 

Eying  three  hundred  feet  east  of  the 
second  Pyramid  is  the  colossal  form  of  the 
Sphinx,  hewn  out  of  solid  natural  rock,  hav- 
ing the  body  of  a  lion  with  a  human  head. 
It  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-two  feet  long 
and  fifty-six  feet  high.  The  Sphinx  was 
symbohc  of  strength,  intellect,  and  force, 
and  thousands  of  Egyptians  were  employed 
twenty  years  in  its  construction. 

6  81 


Exploits   and     Adventures   of  a 

Having  spent  two  days  of  most  interest- 
ing sight-seeing  in  this  old  historical  city, 
I  returned  to  the  cruiser,  and  after  remain- 
ing a  few  days  in  the  harbor  of  Port  Said, 
commenced  our  journey  through  the  Suez 
Canal. 

This  canal,  which  connects  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  Red  Seas,  was  built  by  Ferdi- 
nand De  Lessepps,  a  Frenchman.  France 
built  the  canal,  but  England  owns  it, 
although  she  permits  Frenchmen  to  run  it. 
The  idea  originally  was  not  De  Lessepps', 
as  there  had  been  a  canal  connecting  the 
Mediterranean  and  Red  Seas  thirteen  cen- 
turies before  Christ.  When  Napoleon  was 
in  Egypt,  he  also  entertained  the  project, 
in  order  that  France  might  supplant  Eng- 
land in  the  eastern  trade ;  but  it  required  the 
indomitable  courage  and  wonderful  genius 
of  De  Lessepps  to  carry  the  herculean  task 
to  triumph. 

The  work  was  begun  in  1860  and  finished 
in  1869.  One  hundred  million  dollars  were 
spent,  and  thirty  thousand  men  were  em- 
ployed in  its  construction.  The  canal  is 
eighty-eight  miles  long,  twenty-six  feet  deep, 

82 


Soldirr     Ashore     and     Afloat 


one  hundred  Icct  wide  at  the  bottom,  and 
about  three  hundred  feet  wide  at  the  top. 
The  waters  eontain  three  times  more  salt 
than  ordinary  sea  water.  There  are  sta- 
tions along  the  route  where  ships  tie  up  to 
permit  ships  going  in  an  opposite  direetion 
to  pass.  Its  eourse  lies  through  the  Nubian 
13esert,  the  land  whieh  Pharaoh  gave  to 
Joseph  for  his  father  and  brethren.  An 
occasional  drawbridge  is  in  evidence  where 
the  caravansaries  cross  going  to  and  coming 
from  the  Holy  Lands. 

A  novel  sight  midway  in  the  canal  was  a 
French  transport  loaded  with  French  sol- 
diers returning  from  the  Boxer  campaign 
in  China.  Vociferous  cheering  from  the 
Americans  was  responded  to  by  the  French- 
men. 

After  ploughing  the  waters  of  the  Suez 
Canal,  our  ship  entered  Bitter  Lake,  where 
we  anchored  for  the  night,  departing  on  our 
voyage  at  the  break  of  dawn.  Entering 
"  The  Gate  of  Tears,"  a  strait  between 
Arabia  and  the  continent  of  Africa,  and  so 
called  from  tlic  danger  arising  to  navigation 
caused  by  strong  currents,  we  beheld  the 

83 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

entrance  to  the  Red  Sea.  The  Twelve 
Apostles  was  the  first  memorial  to  remind  us 
of  the  historical  chronology  of  this  broad 
body  of  water.  These  "  apostles  "  seem  to 
be  of  mysterious  origin;  they  consist  of 
twelve  symmetrical  columns  of  rock,  which 
project  from  the  sea  in  a  straight  line,  the 
same  distance  apart,  and  shaped  identically 
alike.  Not  far  from  the  coast  on  our  port 
side  could  be  seen  Mt.  Sinai  and  Mt.  Horeb, 
famed  in  biblical  history.  Some  distance 
beyond  is  Mecca,  the  Jerusalem  of  the 
Mohammedans,  near  which  a  spot  is  pointed 
out  as  being  the  place  where,  under  the 
providence  of  God,  the  Red  Sea  was  divided, 
making  a  dry  pass  for  the  deliverance  of  the 
Israelites  from  their  bondage  in  Egypt, 
under  the  leadership  of  Moses,  the  God- 
inspired  liberator  of  his  people. 

Steaming  by  Mocha,  celebrated  for  its 
production  of  the  finest  coffee  in  the  world, 
we  entered  the  harbor  of  Aden,  our  first  port 
in  Arabia.  Aden  is  a  city  typical  of  the 
"  Far  East  ";  spices  of  a  rich  odor  permeate 
the  atmosphere  for  miles  from  the  coast. 
The  city  is  built  in  the  crater  of  an  extinct 

84 


Soldier     Asliorc     and     Afloat 

volcano,  and  has  an  altitude  of  one  tlioiisand 
I'cct,  is  strongly  t'ortilicd,  and  commands  the 
trade  to  India.  xVrabs  en<rage  in  trade  of 
all  kinds;  heautii'iil  ostrich  feathers,  Bengal 
tiger  skins,  and  ornaments  of  carved  ivory, 
and  souvenirs  of  sandal-wood  are  displayed 
in  the  bazaars.  Aden  is  not  the  dreariest 
place  on  earth,  l)ut  the  few  palm  trees  which 
surround  the  city  only  serve  to  remove  it  a 
hit  from  this  inconceivable  state. 

The  heat  in  this  section  of  the  world  is 
intense,  and,  as  we  steamed  out  of  the  harbor 
of  xVden,  it  seemed  we  were  ploughing 
through  molten  copper;  however,  the  nights 
were  cool.  After  passing  through  the 
Straits  of  Bab  el  Mandeb  and  the  Gulf  of 
Aden,  we  entered  the  Indian  Ocean,  enjoy- 
ing a  delightful  cool  breeze;  but  soon  en- 
countered an  interval  of  calm,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  an  East  Indian  "monsoon,"  a 
veritable  hurricane  at  sea.  Engines  were 
shut  down,  guns  were  lashed,  hatches  bat- 
tened, and  lookouts  were  straj)ped  to  the 
crow's  nest.  Mountainous  swells  of  water 
washed  aboard  the  ship,  and  for  nine  hours 
the  vessel  was  at  the  mercy  of  the  waves. 

85 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

The  storm  having  finally  abated,  our  rigging- 
was  restored,  awnings  spread,  and,  after  a 
few  days  of  delightful  cruising  in  the  Indian 
Ocean,  we  entered  the  harbor  of  Colombo, 
the  capital  of  Ceylon,  firing  the  customary 
salute,  which  was  returned  by  the  forts  and 
the  various  navies  here  represented. 

Ceylon,  a  British  possession,  is  an  island 
in  the  Indian  Ocean,  lying  southeast  of  the 
peninsula  of  Hindustan,  and  is  covered  with 
a  rich  luxuriance  of  tropical  vegetation. 
The  Singhalese  are  the  most  numerous  of  its 
inhabitants;  they  are  devoted  to  Buddhism, 
the  prevailing  religion  of  the  island.  In 
Kandy,  an  inland  town  near  the  capital,  the 
sacred  tooth  of  Buddha  is  guarded  with 
jealous  care. 

Ceylon  is  rich  in  metals,  minerals,  and 
precious  stones ;  its  gems,  such  as  sapphires, 
rubies,  topaz,  garnets,  amethysts,  and  cats- 
eye,  have  been  celebrated  from  time  imme- 
morial. The  interior  of  the  island  abounds 
with  birds  of  paradise  and  immense  bats 
resembling  the  vampire.  Animals,  such  as 
the  elephant,  bear,  leopard,  wild  boar,  deer, 
and  monkeys,  roam  at  will,  while  the  croco- 

86 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


dile,  tortoise,  and  large  lizards,  infest  the 
bogs  of  the  jungle.  A  celebrated  mountain 
visible  from  Colombo  is  Adam's  Peak,  which 
attains  the  height  of  7'i20  feet  above  sea- 
level. 

Colombo,  the  capital,  a  fortified  city  on 
the  western  side  of  tlie  island,  shaded  by  the 
trees  of  the  cocoanut  palm,  is  progressive  as 
a  maritime  port  and  particularly  as  the 
entrepot  for  the  East  India  trade.  The 
hotels  are  furnished  with  "  punkahs,"  while 
hammocks  of  rattan  are  stretched  on  every 
veranda. 

In  addition  to  the  native  Singhalese, 
Hindus,  Tamils,  floors,  Malays,  and  Portu- 
guese engage  in  various  occupations,  a  large 
number  of  these  being  employed  on  the 
coffee  and  tea  plantations. 

In  the  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel  I  met  some 
soldiers  of  the  famous  "  Black  Watch  "  who 
had  participated  in  the  Boer  War  and  who 
had  been  sent  to  Colombo  to  recuperate;  I 
accompanied  them  to  their  barracks,  where 
we  exchanged  various  curios. 

A  large  revenue  is  derived  hy  the  govern- 
ment from  the  pearl-fishery  in  the  Gulf  of 

87 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

Manaar,  and  whales  are  captured  off  the 
coast. 

Seven  days  were  spent  in  the  harbor  of 
Colombo,  after  which  our  ship  steamed 
across  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  through  the 
Straits  of  Malacca  to  Singapore,  an  island  in 
the  Straits  Settlements,  south  of  the  Malay 
Peninsula,  and  eighty  miles  from  the  equa- 
tor. It  commands  the  highway  leading  from 
British  India  to  China,  and  became  a  British 
possession  by  a  treaty  with  the  Sultan  of 
Johore  in  the  year  1824. 

Singapore  is  the  entrepot  for  the  trade  of 
the  Malayan  archipelago  and  China;  its 
chief  exports  are  tapioca,  tin,  tortoise-shell, 
camphor,  coffee,  nutmegs,  gutta  percha,  and 
rattan.  Situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island,  the  town  has  a  very  oriental  appear- 
ance, and  its  inhabitants  represent  sixteen 
nationalities  speaking  different  tongues, 
the  most  enterprising  of  these  being  the 
Chinese.  Though  very  warm,  the  climate  is 
healthy  and  it  is  seldom  subjected  to  quar- 
antine. 

For  ages  past  the  tiger  has  been  a  menace 
to  Singapore,  and  the  government's  archives 

88 


Soldi  rr     Ashore     and     Afloat 

record  an  avcrap^e  of  three  hurulred  C'liinese 
aiul  other  natives  carried  oil'  annually  by 
these  blood-thirsty  man-eaters. 

^Vhile  lying  in  the  harbor  of  Singapore, 
the  crew  of  the  Xcio  York  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing  a  total  eclipse  of  the 
sun.  ^Vstrononiers  from  various  nations  had 
come  to  take  observations  and  data  for  the 
official  chronological  records  of  their  respec- 
tive governments.  It  was  an  amusing  sight 
to  watch  the  natives  as  the  eclipse  passed 
over  the  sun;  their  superstition  led  them  to 
believe  that  the  end  of  the  world  had  come, 
and  their  utterance  and  performance  were 
ridiculous. 

From  Singapore  our  ship  steamed  into  the 
China  Sea  for  ports  in  the  Philippine 
Islands. 


V. 

Hong  Kong,  China,  and  the  Deni- 
zens of  the  Underworld 


A  Trip  to  Canton — "Happy  Valley"  the  "Epsom 
Downs"  of  the  Far  East — Discovery  of  an  American 
Actress  in  an  Opium  Joint — A  "Rough  House"  in 
which  Guns  are  Drawn — Moonlight  Meditations  on 
the  Quarter-deck  of  the  Rainbow — Encounter  with 
a  Victim  of  Brain  Storm. 

I  HAD  made  numerous  trips  across  the 
China  Sea,  and  had  been  up  and  down  the 
Chinese  coast  from  Taku  to  Saigon  several 
times,  on  board  the  United  States  Cruiser 
New  York,  during  the  Boxer  campaign. 
On  this  particular  trip,  however,  I  was 
serving  on  board  the  United  States  Flag- 
ship Rainbow,  in  the  capacity  of  orderly 
to  the  junior  commander  of  the  Asiatic  fleet, 
the  late  Rear  Admiral  Wilde. 

This  trip  had  been  looked  forward  to  with 
great  pleasure  as  our  ship  was  scheduled  for 
dry  dock  and  this  meant  lots  of  shore  leave 
for  the  crew. 

90 


Exploits   of  a   Soldier 

Leaving  ^Manila  we  steamed  across  the 
China  Sea,  wliieh  required  al)()ut  tlu'ee  days. 
After  the  usual  quarantine  inspections  we 
entered  the  land-locked  harbor  and  cast 
anchor  near  Kowloon,  a  town  on  the  main- 
land of  China. 

Hong  Kong  is  situated  on  Victoria  Island 
and  is  a  British  possession;  the  island  rises 
to  an  immense  altitude  on  the  slope  of  which, 
facing  Kowloon,  spreads  the  City  of  Hong 
Kong.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  well 
fortified  and  from  a  light-house  on  a  cliff  a 
powerful  light  is  cast  at  night  for  miles 
over  the  China  Sea. 

Having  visited  Hong  Kong  several  times, 
it  was  my  desire  this  time  to  pay  a  visit  to 
the  more  typical  Chinese  City  of  Canton. 
So,  accompanied  by  the  Japanese  steward 
of  the  licunhwic,  I  secured  passage  on  the 
British  side-wheeler  Moonlight. 

The  passengers  seemed  to  represent  every 
nation  on  earth.  There  were  Bombay  and 
Chinese  merchants,  American  and  European 
tourists,  Kast  Indian  Sikhs,  Japanese  wait- 
ers, and  Chinese  sailors. 

After  an  all  night  run  on  the  Pearl  River, 

91 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

dawn  broke  with  our  eyes  fastened  on  this 
great  Chinese  city.  Canton.  Here  years 
could  be  spent  without  learning  a  great  deal 
about  its  historical  calendar. 

Entering  through  a  gate  of  the  old  stone 
wall,  we  found  the  only  European  hotel  in 
the  city,  the  "  Victoria,"  where,  after  having 
had  breakfast,  we  engaged  two  sedan  chairs 
carried  by  coolies,  and  sought  the  places  of 
interest.  The  streets  are  so  narrow  that  two 
chairs  can  just  barely  pass  each  other.  We 
visited  the  ancient  pagodas,  the  execution 
ground  and  block  where  highbinders  are 
beheaded,  the  markets,  bazaars,  and  opium 
dens,  and  finally  witnessed  a  Chinese 
wedding. 

One  of  the  interesting  sights  of  the  Pearl 
River  is  its  floating  population.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  tliree  million  Chinese  live  in 
junks  on  this  river. 

I  was  not  at  all  reluctant  to  leave  this 
relic  of  the  dark  ages  for  the  more  up-to-date 
city  of  Hong  Kong.  We  know  the  nations 
of  the  earth  are  represented  in  our  New 
York,  but  for  real  cosmopolitanism  the 
"  Queen's  Road  "  in  Hong  Kong  makes  old 

92 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


I^roadway  look  like  a  street   in  a  country 
village. 

The  principal  enterprises  of  Ilong  Kong 
are  ship2)ing,  the  manufacture  of  chinaware, 
silk  goods,  sedan  wood-work,  and  pyrotech- 
nics. Labor  is  very  cheap,  and,  as  British 
imports  are  entered  free  of  duty,  the  living 
in  this  city  of  the  far  East  is  very  cheap. 

]\Iany  Hong  Kong  Chinamen  are  edu- 
cated in  the  English  language,  have  adopted 
the  customs  and  manners  of  the  English 
people,  and  for  cleverness  in  business  and 
practical  aff'airs  are  unexcelled. 

A  tram-way  leads  up  the  mountain-side 
to  the  Peak  Hotel,  from  which  you  can  be 
conveyed  in  sedan  chairs  to  the  zenith  of 
Victoria  Peak.  At  the  Peak  Hotel  I  met 
two  American  prospectors,  with  whom  I 
played  several  games  of  billiards;  these  men 
had  spent  three  years  in  Sumatra  and  were 
awaiting  a  liner  for  "  Frisco."  With  them 
I  visited  Happy  Valley,  the  Chinese  Court, 
the  Dairy  Farm,  Douglass  Castle,  Kennedy 
Koad,  the  Chinese  market,  the  Royal  Naval 
Canteen,  the  barracks  of  the  Welsh  Fu- 
sileers,  the  Highlanders,  the  Scots  Guards, 

03 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 


and  the  Sikhs,  old  Chinese  joss  houses,  and 
the  famous  Traveller's  Inn,  where  British 
bar-maids  do  the  honors. 

Horse-racing  is  the  favorite  sport  in  Hong 
Kong,  and  the  track  at  Happy  Valley  is  the 
Epsom  Downs  of  the  Far  East.  A  Derby 
is  a  signal  for  the  suspension  of  business, 
and  the  excitement  in  the  paddock,  grand 
stand,  and  along  the  rail  is  akin  to  that  at 
Sheepshead  Bay  on  the  day  of  the  Brooklyn 
handicap. 

The  Chinese  are  born  gamblers,  whether 
playing  at  "  fan  tan  "  or  picking  the  win- 
ners on  the  track.  They  will  carry  complete 
data  of  a  horse:  the  distance  he  can  go  at 
his  best;  the  weight  he  can  best  carry; 
whether  fast  or  slow  in  starting;  and 
whether  a  good  or  bad  animal  in  mud;  all 
this  a  Chinaman  will  study  over  before  plac- 
ing his  money,  and  it  is  usually  safe  to  fol- 
low his  system. 

Hong  Kong,  like  all  other  cities  of  the 
earth,  has  its  underworld.  These  laby- 
rinthal  subways,  where  flourish  the  opium 
dens,  are  as  thickly  infested  with  thugs  as 
are  the  darkest  recesses  of  Mulberry  Bend. 


94 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

Plaving  accompanied  a  party  of  High- 
landers and  Welsh  Fiisileers  into  these  dimly 
lighted  caverns,  for  tlie  purpose  of  seeing 
opium  smoked,  we  fell  upon  sights  which 
seemed  degrading  even  to  a  party  of  slum- 
ming soldiers ;  licre  and  there  in  deep  recess 
were  cots  on  which  reclined  the  sleeping 
forms  of  semi  nude  victims  of  the  yenhock. 
Further  on,  an  American  girl  in  a  kimono 
approached  me  with  the  query  as  to  what 
I)art  of  the  United  States  I  was  from.  Her 
flushed  face  indicated  that  she  was  under 
the  influence  of  "  samshu,"  a  popular  native 
intoxicant.  She  told  me  how  eager  she  was 
to  get  back  to  her  native  land,  but  how  im- 
possible it  seemed  to  raise  the  price  of  the 
transportation.  Her  home  she  said  was  in 
St.  Louis,  that  she  had  accompanied  a 
theatrical  troupe  from  San  Francisco  to 
Australia,  which  had  stranded  and  dis- 
banded in  Sydney;  from  Australia  she  had 
accompanied  a  troupe  through  the  Straits 
Settlements,  and  finally  arrived  in  Hong 
Kong,  only  to  fall  a  victim  to  tlic  j^laguc, 
from  whicli  she  recovered,  and  finally  drifted 
penniless  into  the  abode  of  the  denizens  of 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  underworld.  Her  story  was  a  sad  one, 
but  you  meet  the  same  class  and  hear  simi- 
lar stories  in  all  cities  of  the  world.  As  we 
bade  her  adieu  and  passed  on  through  this 
"  chamber  of  horrors,"  we  could  hear  her 
voice,  singing,  "  Give  me  just  one  little 
smile;  every  little  bit  helps." 

There  were  some  ugly-looking  heathens 
in  this  underground  bee-hive,  and,  before 
leaving,  we  played  at  "  fan  tan,"  having 
considerable  luck,  which  seemed  to  irritate 
an  almond-eyed  highbinder  to  such  an  extent 
that  he  broke  up  the  game.  This  caused  a 
Highlander  to  hand  him  a  jolt  on  the  eye, 
and  this  started  a  "  rough  house,"  in  which 
I  was  compelled  to  declare  peace  along  the 
barrel  of  my  Colt  automatic;  it  looked  like 
work  for  a  coroner,  but  Chinese  are  afraid 
of  a  gun,  and  the  resumption  of  order  was 
momentary. 

Having  visited  every  nook  and  cranny  of 
this  quaint  city  during  my  ten  days'  shore 
leave,  I  returned  to  the  arduous  duties 
about  the  deck  of  a  "  man-of-war." 

The  Rainbow  had  changed  her  position 
from  the  anchorage  ground  in  the  bay  to  a 

96 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

dry  (lock  in  Kowloon  opposite  the  City  of 
Ilong  Kong;  here  she  was  undergoing  a 
process  of  renovation. 

On  board  a  "  man-of-war  "  the  hours  for 
performing  duty  are  divided  into  three 
watches,  each  watch  commencing  at  eight 
bells.  At  eight  o'clock  conmiences  what  is 
known  as  the  first  watch,  this  watch  is  re- 
lieved at  twelve  o'clock  by  the  midwatch, 
and  this  is  relieved  at  four  o'clock  by  the 
dog  watch,  the  Tiight  watches  being  regu- 
lated the  same  as  tlie  day. 

In  the  navy  the  non-commissioned  officers 
of  the  guard  exercise  no  authority  over  the 
orderlies  of  the  admiral  and  "  skipper,"  and 
there  is  no  posting  an  orderly,  as  in  the  case 
of  a  sentry,  there  being  a  mutual  compact 
that  each  relief  report  promptly  on  the  hour. 

At  night  it  is  customary  for  each  ordeily 
to  waken  his  own  relief.  As  eight  bells 
struck  for  the  dog  watch,  I  was  in  the  bulk- 
head leading  to  the  admiral's  cabin,  testing 
my  annunciator  and  receiving  any  verbal 
orders  which  might  liave  been  left  by  the 
flag-officer  or  officer  of  the  deck.  On  this 
particular  night  Admiral  Wilde,  who  "  by 

7  97 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of  a 

the  way  "  commanded  the  Boston  of  Dewey's 
fleet  at  the  battle  of  Manila  Bay,  accom- 
panied by  Commander  Staunton  of  the 
Rainbow,  had  left  the  ship  to  attend  a 
dinner  party  on  board  the  British  commerce 
destroyer  Terrible. 

The  old  man  being  away,  I  spent  my 
watch  in  leisure,  as  an  admiral's  orderly 
takes  orders  from  no  one  but  the  admiral. 
After  sampling  a  few  of  his  mild  Manila 
cigars  and  running  off  a  few  letters  on  the 
typewriter,  I  climbed  aloft  to  the  quarter- 
deck, where  the  capstan  and  brass  tompions 
of  the  big  aft  eight-inch  guns  shone  bright 
in  the  moonlight. 

What  a  night  this  was!  Never  on  such 
a  night  could  Dewey's  fleet  have  passed 
unseen  the  forts  of  Corregidor.  There, 
stretching  over  the  mountain-side  of  Vic- 
toria, lay  the  illuminated  City  of  Hong 
Kong;  the  wavelets  of  the  Pearl  River,  with 
its  myriads  of  junks  and  sampans,  seemed 
to  dance  in  the  moonlight;  off  at  the  en- 
trance, from  the  tower  of  a  light-house,  a 
powerful  revolving  search-light  cast  its  rays 
beyond  the  horizon  of  the  China  Sea.    Here 

98 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 

and  there  dotting  the  harbor  were  the  "  dogs 
of  war  "  of  the  American,  British,  German, 
and  French  navies;  hirge  junks  with  colored 
Chinese  hmterns  at  the  bow,  which  trem])led 
in  the  soft  breeze,  and  an  eye  on  either  side, 
to  guide  it  on  its  way,  passed  to  and  fro, 
hke  phantoms  of  the  mist. 

All  was  silent  about  the  deck.  The  tramp, 
tramp,  tramp  of  the  big  East  Indian  Sikh 
who  patrolled  the  water  front  was  the  only 
sound  to  disturb  the  tranquillity  of  this 
dream-like  night.  As  I  leaned  on  the  tajft*- 
rail  of  the  quarter-deck,  in  deep  meditation, 
I  thought  of  what  a  prodigious  subject  this 
scene  would  make  for  the  pen  of  a  Byron 
or  a  Browning,  and  that  it  was  on  such  a 
night  in  Venice  that  Desdemona  eloped  with 
her  tawny  ^Moorish  warrior. 

As  my  eyes  feasted  on  the  grandeur  of 
these  moonlight  scenes,  the  tongue  of  the 
bell  tolled  seven;  it  was  half  past  eleven 
and  time  to  call  my  relief.  ^Vith  a  dark 
lantern  I  started  for  the  berth-deck;  near 
the  entrance  to  the  conning  tower  I  was 
approached  by  an  excited  sailor,  who  asked 
my  opinion  of  the  terrible  massacre  in  Hong 

90 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

Kong.  I  informed  the  fellow  that  I  had 
heard  nothing  of  a  massacre,  whereupon  he 
volunteered  to  show  me  a  bulletin;  leading 
the  way  to  the  pilot-house,  he  found  it 
locked;  gazing  through  the  window,  the 
man  exclaimed,  "Look  there!  read  that!" 
The  light  was  on,  and,  sure  enough,  there 
was  a  scrip  attached  to  the  wheel,  the  writ- 
ing of  which  it  was  impossible  to  read. 

Having  aroused  my  curiosity,  I  further 
inquired  as  to  the  circumstances  leading  to* 
the  massacre.  For  several  minutes  the 
fellow  was  non-committal,  acting  surprised 
at  my  ignorance  in  not  even  having  heard 
the  report  of  the  guns.  Impulsively  he 
shouted,  "Look  there!  see  that  cloud  of 
smoke?  The  Inniskilling  Dragoons  have 
fired  on  the  Royal  Artillery,  and,  as  the 
result  of  the  conflict,  ten  thousand  natives 
lie  strewed  in  death."  This  unusual  sur- 
prise did  not  exactly  paralyze  me,  but  it  was 
the  cue  for  me  to  make  my  exit,  which  I  did 
with  symptoms  of  the  ague,  having  made  an 
excuse  to  go  below  for  a  pair  of  binoculars 
that  we  might  gaze  on  the  scene  more  clearly. 

This  was  my  first  experience  with  a  victim 

100 


Soldirr     Ashore    and     Afloat 

of  brain  storm,  and,  although  1  shrink  from 
the  admittance  of  "  having  cokl  feet,"  1  must 
admit  tliat  tlie  atmosphere  on  this  occasion 
was  unduly  chilly. 

On  the  main  deck  I  met  some  coal-passers 
who  had  been  gambling  in  the  engine-room; 
apprising  these  fellows  of  there  being  a 
crazy  man  on  deck,  we  concurred  in  the 
advisability  of  notifying  the  master  at  arms 
and  having  him  put  away  for  safe  keeping. 
In  a  short  time  the  fellow  was  manacled  and 
led  to  the  brig,  protesting  his  innocence  of 
having  been  a  party  to  the  massacre. 

Upon  examination  by  the  surgeon,  the 
man  was  removed  to  the  "  sick  bay,"  where 
it  developed  that  the  unfortunate  fellow  was 
suffering  from  acute  melancholia.  During 
the  investigation  to  consider  the  advisability 
of  sending  him  to  a  sanitarium  in  Yoko- 
hama, he  tried  to  cough  up  a  ten-inch  shell 
which  he  claimed  to  have  accidentally  swal- 
lowed. Having  undergone  a  course  of 
treatment  on  the  Island  of  Hondo,  Japan, 
the  fellow  fully  recovered,  and  I  have  since 
learned  that  he  regained  his  normal  health 
and  is  ])r()spering  in  the  middle  West. 

101 


Expjp.its    of  a   Soldier 

Upon  completion  of  our  ship  in  dry  dock, 
we  bade  adieu  to  the  land  of  the  heathen 
Chinee  and  steamed  into  the  China  Sea  en 
route  to  the  Sula  Archipelago,  spending 
Thanksgiving  in  the  harbor  of  Puerto  Prin- 
cessa  on  the  Island  of  Palawan. 


VI. 

A  Trip  to  Japan 


Departure  of  the  "  Flag-Ship  "  from  Manila — A  Tvphoon 
in  the  China  Sea — The  Inland  Sea  of  the  "  Rising 
Sun" — Baseball  with  the  Kobe  Country  Club — - 
Fujiyama — Yokohama — Tokio,  and  the  Imperial 
Palace  of  the  Mikado — A  French  Fleet  Celebrates  the 
Taking  of  the  Bastille — Unveiling  of  Perry's  Monu- 
ment— A  Reception  on  Board  the  Neiv  York  to  the 
Nobility  of  the  "  Flowery  Kingdom." 

The  United  States  Cruiser  New  York,— 
flying  the  ensign  of  Rear  xVdmiral  Rodgers, 
commander-in-chief  of  the  Asiatic  station, 
who  had  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Yoko- 
hama, Japan,  to  participate  in  the  unveiling 
of  a  monument  erected  by  the  Japanese 
government  in  commemoration  of  the 
achievement  of  Commodore  Perry,  his 
grandfather,  who  anchored  there  with  his 
fleet  in  18.54,  and,  as  ambassador  sent  by 
President  Filmore,  succeeded  in  opening 
the  ports  of  Japan  to  foreign  commerce, — 
drew  anchor  June  25,   1901,  and  steamed 

103 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

into  the  China  Sea,  with  the  gun-boat  York- 
town  following  in  her  wake. 

The  cruise  was  uneventful  for  the  first 
few  days,  when,  about  11  a.m.  of  the  third 
day,  the  barometer  suddenly  dropped  sev- 
eral degrees  and  dark,  heavy^  clouds  gave 
evidence  that  a  typhoon  was  approaching. 
All  sails  on  board  were  secured,  guns  were 
lashed,  hatches  battened  down,  and  sou'- 
westers  donned  by  the  lookouts.  A  fev\^ 
minutes  later  we  were  being  rocked  in  a 
heavy  sea;  a  terrible  gale  of  wind,  whistling 
through  the  ventilators,  brought  relief  to  the 
coal-passers  below.  Our  deep  fog-whistle 
was  blown  every  minute,  and  the  boatswain 
and  his  mates  were  active  and  constantly  on 
the  alert.  Our  engines  were  kept  going  as 
usual,  and  by  evening  the  typhoon  had 
broken  and  we  were  sailing  on  a  fair  sea 
off  the  coast  of  Formosa. 

After  two  days'  more  sail,  occasionally 
passing  a  man-of-war  or  mail-steamer,  we 
sighted  the  beautiful  islands  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  the  land  of  the  Rising  Sun,  which  we 
entered  at  sunrise.  This  land-locked  Jap- 
anese body  of  water  is  a  broad  lake  over  two 

104 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


luiiidrcil  miles  l()n<^-,  filled  with  islands  and 
sheltered  by  uneven  shores.  From  sunrise 
to  dark,  shadowy  vistas  opened  and  peace- 
ful shores  golden  with  ripening  grain 
slipped  by.  There  was  notliing  to  disturb 
the  dream-like  charm,  and  yet  human  life 
and  achievement  were  constantly  in  sight. 
Along  the  shores  stretched  chains  of  vil- 
lages, with  stone  walls,  castles,  and  temples 
soaring  above  the  clustered  roofs,  or  peep- 
ing from  wooded  slopes  were  terraced  fields 
of  rice  and  grain,  ridging  every  hill  to  its 
summit  and  covering  every  lower  level. 

Dotted  throughout  this  fairy-like  lake  are 
stone  torril.s,  miniature  light-houses,  which 
guide  the  ships  at  night.  Junks  and  sam- 
pans lie  anchored  in  fleets  or  creep  idly 
across  the  water,  and  small  coasting  steam- 
ers thread  their  way  in  and  out  among  tlie 
islands.  For  miles  we  steamed  by  what  is 
supposed  to  be  the  most  picturesque  scenery 
in  the  world.  It  was  yet  twnlight  when  Kobe 
was  seen  in  the  distance  at  the  head  of  the 
Inland  Sea,  sheltered  from  the  land  ])y  the 
range  of  mountains  ])ack  of  it.  AVe  entered 
the  harbor  after  having  been  inspected  by 

105 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  Japanese  quarantine  officials,  and 
anchored  astern  of  the  British  battleship 
Aurora.  Before  the  last  notes  of  tattoo 
were  sounded  our  booms  were  spread  and 
launches  lowered,  and  the  beautifully  illu- 
minated citj'  of  Kobe  lay  before  us.  Kobe 
means  "  Gate  of  God "  and  is  the  model 
foreign  settlement  of  the  eastern  part  of 
Japan,  with  a  population  of  215,000. 

A  pretty  park  in  the  heart  of  the  conces- 
sion, shaded  by  camphor  trees  and  orna- 
mented by  groups  of  palms,  thatched  sum- 
mer houses,  and  a  bell-tower,  was  once  the 
execution  ground  of  Hiogo.  A  line  of  tea- 
houses cover  the  brow  of  the  hill,  which  is 
also  dotted  here  and  there  with  orange 
groves.  The  streets  are  lined  with  curio 
shops  and  jinrikshaws  drawn  by  coolies. 
Here  we  spent  the  Fourth  of  July;  the 
men-of-war  lying  here  all  dressed  in  holiday 
attire,  our  flag-ship  fired  a  salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns.  In  the  afternoon  our  base-ball 
team,  accompanied  by  the  band  and  all  those 
eligible  for  liberty,  went  ashore,  where  we 
crossed  bats  with  the  Kobe  country  club, 
our  band  rendering  inspiring  music  during 

106 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

the  ^ainc.  The  result  was  a  whitewasli  for 
the  eoiintrv  chib,  who  entertained  ns  hivishly 
at  their  ehib-liouse  in  the  evening. 

After  spending  two  weeks  in  this  city  we 
set  out  for  Yokohama,  making  the  voyage 
in  thirty  hours.  After  passing  the  famous 
light-ship  at  the  entrance  to  Yokohama 
harbor,  we  were  met  by  the  quarantine 
officials.  Their  usual  routine  of  work  com- 
pleted, we  steamed  into  the  harbor,  firing  a 
national  salute  of  twenty-one  guns,  which 
was  returned  by  the  forts  and  by  the  British, 
French,  Italian,  and  Japanese  men-of-war, 
our  band  playing  the  national  airs  of  the 
various  countries  here  represented,  the 
marines  presenting  arms.  Casting  anchor 
near  the  French  cruiser  F riant,  the  usual 
visits  of  courtesy  were  exchanged. 

Numerous  vessels  of  the  merchant  marine 
of  all  nations,  besides  men-of-war,  brigs, 
yachts,  barks,  sampans,  and  junks,  were 
scattered  profusely  over  the  harbor,  coming 
and  going,  bells  rang  in  chorus  around  the 
anchorage  ground,  saluting  and  signal- 
flags  slipped  up  and  down  the  masts,  while 
the  bang  and  low-rolling  echo  of  the  ship's 

107 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 


guns  made  mimic  war.  At  night  the  harbor 
dazzles  with  various  colored  lights,  while  the 
search-lights  of  the  "  men-of-war  "  illumi- 
nate sections  of  the  city  on  the  heights. 

Yokohama  lies  between  immense  bluffs, 
on  one  of  which  the  stars  and  stripes  are  seen 
flying  over  an  American  hospital.  Beyond 
the  bluff  proper  stretches  the  race-course, 
from  which  can  be  seen  Fujiyama,  or  sacred 
mountain,  which  is  invested  with  legends ;  it 
is  said  to  have  risen  up  in  a  single  night,  two 
thousand  years  ago,  and  for  centuries  pil- 
grims have  toiled  up  the  weary  path  to  pray 
at  the  highest  shrine  and  to  supplicate  the 
sun  at  dawn. 

Fujiyama,  with  the  circling  storks  and 
ascending  dragons,  symbolizes  success  in 
life  and  triumph  over  obstacles.  Until  the 
year  1500  it  was  a  living  volcano.  A  road 
leads  from  "  Fuji "  to  Mississippi  Bay, 
where  Commodore  Perry's  ships  anchored 
in  1854. 

To  the  port  side  lies  Kanagawa,  well  for- 
tified; just  be5''ond  is  the  grave  of  Richard- 
son, the  Briton  who  was  killed,  by  the  retain- 
ers of  the  prince  of  Satsuma  in  1862,  for 

108 


S  (tidier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


deliberately  riding  into  the  daimyo's  train. 
A  memorial  stone,  inscribed  with  Japanese 
characters,  marks  the  spot  where  Richardson 
I'dl.  This  cost  the  Japs  the  bonibarchnent 
of  Kagishima  and  an  indemnity  of  12.5,000 
pounds. 

Near  this  spot  is  situated  black-eyed 
Susan's  tea-house,  a  favorite  resort  for 
tourists.  According  to  one  version, 
"  Susan's  strand  ''  is  where  the  Rip  Van 
Winkle  of  Japan  (Urashima)  sailed  on  an 
immense  tortoise  for  the  home  of  the  sea 
king.  Yokohama  is  surrounded  by  rich  silk 
districts,  orchards,  and  the  most  beautiful 
fiowers  I  have  ever  seen.  The  villages  in 
the  suburbs  are  very  picturesque,  with  nar- 
row roads  and  shady  paths  leading  through 
perpetual  scenes  of  sylvan  beauty;  ])amboo 
trees,  thatched  roofs,  and  gnarled  camplior 
trees  everywhere  charm  the  eye. 

Tokio,  the  capital,  is  but  eighteen  miles 
from  Yokohama.  The  city  is  intensely 
interesting;  Japanese  ladies  in  silk  kimonos 
and  straw  sandals,  fluttering  along  the 
streets  like  butterflies,  invariably  wearing 
a  red  carnation  in  their  neatly  dressed  coal- 

109 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


black  hair,  present  a  pretty  sight  as  they 
enter  and  leave  their  quaint  little  tea-houses ; 
you  are  reminded  of  the  scenes  in  the 
Mikado,  San  Toy,  and  Geisha  operas.  The 
jinrickshaw  man  is  everywhere  in  evidence, 
ready  to  convey  you  to  any  part  of  the  city ; 
for  one  yen,  or  about  fifty  cents  in  Amer- 
ican gold,  he  will  haul  you  around  for  an 
entire  morning. 

The  coolies  of  Japan  are  superior  to  those 
of  Ceylon  and  Singapore  in  the  power  of 
endurance  and  intelligence,  the  former  being 
full  of  spirit  and  animation,  while  the  latter 
possess  that  languorous  indifference  char- 
acteristic of  the  Straits  Settlements  native. 

The  Imperial  Palace,  the  abode  of  the 
Mikado,  is  a  magnificent  edifice  surrounded 
by  the  Imperial  Gardens,  which  cover  a  vast 
area  of  ground;  a  short  distance  beyond, 
with  no  less  ostentation,  stands  the  palatial 
residence  of  the  Empress  Dowager.  ]My 
"  rickshaw  coolie  "  having  taken  me  into  this 
Imperial  Park,  I  was  admiring  the  beauty 
thereof,  when  we  were  approached  by  a 
sentry  who  admonished  the  coolie  to  proceed 
no  farther ;  when  I  urged  him  to  continue,  he 

110 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

informed  ine  he  was  afraid  of  being  shot, 
whereupon  we  returned  to  the  more  peace- 
able surroundings  along  the  studios  of  the 
"  geishas." 

The  police  register  the  arrival  of  all 
strangers,  keeping  a  record  of  their  move- 
ments and  admonishing  them  as  to  their 
behavior.  The  temples  are  of  great  inter- 
est ;  in  one  I  was  shown  the  tomb  of  Buddha, 
whose  final  interment,  like  the  disposition 
of  the  bones  of  Columbus  and  John  Paul 
Jones,  has  been  based  on  presumptive 
evidence. 

Besides  the  diplomatic  corps,  there  are  a 
great  many  missionaries  in  Tokio,  while  the 
army  is  everywhere  in  evidence. 

July  the  l-lth,  the  day  set  for  the  unveil- 
ing of  Commodore  Perry's  monument  at 
Uraga,  dawned  with  a  heavy  fog  hanging 
over  the  harbor.  Coincident  with  this  event 
was  the  anniversary  of  the  destruction  of  the 
"  Bastille,"  which  the  flag-ship  of  the  French 
fleet,  the  cruiser  F riant,  had  prepared  to 
celebrate. 

About  7.45  A.M.  (|uarters  sounded;  the 
marines  formed  an  alignment  on  the  star- 
in 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

board  side  of  the  quarter-deck,  attired  in 
full  dress;  saluting  gun  crews  fell  to  the 
forward  six-pounders,  and  blue- jackets 
formed  an  alignment  on  the  port  side. 
Everything  ready,  my  annunciator  rang, 
and  I  reported  to  Admiral  Rodgers,  eight 
bells  and  under  way.  As  we  steamed  by  the 
British,  French,  German,  Italian,  and  Jap- 
anese war-vessels,  followed  by  the  Amer- 
ican fleet,  the  various  bands  played  "  The 
Star-Spangled  Banner,"  the  marines  pre- 
senting arms,  while  the  American  band 
played  the  Japanese  national  air,  and  in  turn 
the  "  Marseillaise,"  the  national  air  of  the 
French  republic.  In  less  than  an  hour  we 
had  entered  the  harbor  of  Kurahama,  near 
Uraga,  firing  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns, 
our  ships  dressed  in  holiday  attire  from 
bow  to  stern,  with  the  Japanese  ensign  flying 
at  the  main.  Our  salute  was  returned 
by  the  Japanese,  and  we  anchored  near  the 
spot  where  Commodore  Perry's  ships  an- 
chored in  1854. 

The  Japanese  fleet  represented  ancient, 
medieval,  and  modern  warfare,  and  included 
two  of  the  most  modern  battleships  afloat  at 

112 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

tluit  time, — namely,  the  iShiJcisJtima  and 
Halsuse,  both  of  which  figured  prominently 
in  the  bombardment  of  the  Liaotung  Penin- 
sula and  the  terrible  slaughter  of  the  Rus- 
sians in  the  Straits  of  Korea. 

The  Yokohama  Yacht  Club  was  well  rep- 
resented in  the  harbor,  and  every  craft  and 
packet,  down  to  the  odd-looking  sampan, 
endeavored  to  appear  festive  and  holiday 
like. 

The  terrible  weather  prevented  what  was 
to  have  been  a  very  imposing  ceremony. 
Thousands  of  Japanese  from  Tokio,  Yoko- 
hama, Plakodate,  Kioto,  Kobe,  Osaka, 
Nagasaki,  and  the  interior  villages,  had 
congregated  to  witness  the  unveiling.  A 
guard  of  five  hundred  marines  from  the  fleet, 
with  the  naval  band  of  the  Hatsuf^e,  landed 
and  were  stationed  in  front  of  the  monu- 
ment. The  officers  of  the  ships  and  govern- 
ment officials  were  stationed  on  stands 
erected. 

About  twelve  o'clock  the  ceremonies  com- 
menced with  the  band  rendering  the  Jap- 
anese national  air,  Admiral  Rodgers  broke 
the  cords  that  held  the  veil,  and  the  monu- 

8  113 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 


ment  was  put  in  view.  The  United  States 
minister,  Colonel  A.  E.  Buck,  being  ill,  an 
address  was  made  by  J.  M.  Ferguson,  sec- 
retary of  the  legation,  who  dwelt  on  the 
progress  of  Japan  and  the  friendship  exist- 
ing between  her  and  America  since  the  open- 
ing of  her  ports  to  foreign  commerce,  and 
other  beneficent  consequences  that  have  fol- 
lowed Commodore  Perry's  visit. 

This  was  followed  by  a  speech  in  Japan- 
ese by  Premier  Viscount  Kasura,  after  which 
Admiral  Rodgers  addressed  the  assemblage. 
Governor  Sufu  also  spoke  in  Japanese,  and 
this  was  followed  by  the  last  address,  made 
by  Rear  Admiral  Beardsley  (retired),  who 
was  a  midshipman  on  Commodore  Perry's 
flag-ship  over  half  a  century  ago. 

After  several  appropriate  selections  by 
the  band,  during  which  courtesies  and  greet- 
ings were  exchanged,  this  military  and  civic 
pageant,  drenched  by  the  rain  that  con- 
tinually fell,  dispersed  to  their  respective 
vessels  and  returned  to  Yokohama. 

The  monument  consists  of  an  immense 
slab  of  granite,  resting  on  a  large  granite 
foundation,    on    which    the    inscription,    in 

114 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

Ja2)ancse  characters,  translated  is:  '"  Tliis 
iiionuiiicnt  marks  tlic  landing-place  of  Com- 
modore Perry,  of  the  United  States  of 
America";  on  the  reverse  side,  "Landed 
on  the  14th  July,  Cth  year  Kayai;  con- 
structed on  the  1st  July,  34th  year  IMciji." 
It  is  thirty-four  feet  high  and  weighs  nine- 
teen tons. 

It  was  about  five  o'clock  when  the  anchors 
of  the  Xcic  York  were  again  hauled,  and 
before  supper  was  over  we  had  again  entered 
Yokohama  15ay,  where  the  Friant  lay  beau- 
tifully dressed  in  various-colored  flags,  and 
literally  covered  with  incandescent  lights, 
the  name  Friant  shining  over  the  mizzen-top. 

xVs  the  guns  of  the  American  war-ship 
belched  forth  a  national  salute,  in  honor  of 
the  day  that  changed  the  current  of  events 
in  France,  the  American  band  struck  up 
the  "  ^larscillaise  "  (Chant  de  Guerre  de 
TArmee  du  Khin),  and  as  the  ship  cast  her 
anchors  ofl'  the  j)ort  how  of  the  British 
commerce-destroyer  Terrible,  rapturous  en- 
thusiasm was  exhibited  by  the  sailors.  The 
festivities  on  board  the  French  flag-ship 
were  joined  in  the  evening  by  the  officers  of 

115 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of   a 


the  various  fleets  represented,  and  this  ended 
a  day  of  pleasure  and  events. 

The  following  day  a  reception  was  ten- 
dered by  the  Americans,  on  board  the  New 
York,  to  representatives  of  the  nobility, 
ofiicers  of  the  army  and  navy  of  Japan, 
members  of  the  legation,  civilian  represen- 
tatives, and  officers  of  the  various  fleets.  The 
ship  was  dressed  in  her  best  holiday  attire 
for  this  occasion,  and  it  was  a  gala  day  for 
all  on  board.  Ladies  of  various  nations  vied 
with  one  another  for  beauty  and  effect. 
Japanese  attired  in  European  dress,  many 
of  whom  had  been  educated  in  the  United 
States  and  Europe  and  spoke  Anglo-Saxon 
fluently,  were  there  with  sparkling  vivacity. 
Lunch  was  served  on  board  by  Japanese 
waiters,  who  could  carry  eighteen  goblets  of 
champagne  on  one  tray  without  spilling  a 
drop.  Music  and  dancing  were  the  chief 
features  of  the  day. 

The  ship  remained  in  Yokohama  two 
weeks  on  this  trip,  steaming  from  here  to 
the  famous  dry-dock  at  Kure  on  the  Island 
of  Hondo.  Here  the  cruise  was  curtailed, 
owing  to  American  interests  requiring  pres- 

116 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


sure  along  the  Cliincse  coast,  where  piracy 
in  various  forms  was  found  flourishing 
brazenly  red-handed.  After  remaining  two 
weeks  in  the  harbor  of  Amoy,  the  cruiser 
Neiv  York  steamed  off  in  the  darkness  for 
the  Malay  Peninsula. 


VII. 

War  Orders  in  the   "Land  of  the 
Rising  Sun 

Sacred  Ports  of  the  "  Mikado  " — -The  "  Kobe  Country 
Club  " — A  Baseball  Game — War  Orders — Under 
Forced  Draft  to  Manila — A  Company  of  the  Ninth 
Infantry  Annihilated  by  "  Bolomen  " — A  Midnight 
Bombardment  along  the  Coast  of  Samar  —  Death 
and  Solemn  Burial  of  a  Midshipman — Blowing  up  a 
"  Banco  " — A  Fight  in  the  Gandarra  Straits — 
Midnight  Fusillade— Terrible  Deprivations — War  is 
Hell — Return  to  the  Land  of  the  "  Rising  Sun." 

Through  the  courtesy  of  the  Mikado  of 
Japan,  Admiral  Rodgers,  commanding  the 
American  Asiatic  squadron,  had  been 
granted  the  unusual  privilege  of  visiting, 
with  his  flag-ship  the  New  York,  ports  in 
the  land  of  the  "  Rising  Sun  "  whose  har- 
bors, surrounded  by  a  succession  of  moun- 
tain scenery  and  terraced  hills  of  fantastic 
formation,  had  never  been  graced  by  the 
flag  of  a  foreign  nation.  It  was  therefore 
hailed  with  delight  by  all  on  board  when  the 

118 


Exi)loits    of    a    Soldier 

news  was  pronuilgated  about  tlie  decks,  tliat 
ere  long  our  sea-going  home  would  be  wind- 
ing her  way  through  the  thread-like  channels 
of  the  most  beautiful  body  of  w^ater  extant, 
the  "  Inland  Sea  "  of  Japan,  in  the  fashion- 
ing of  which  natm-e's  handiwork  reached  its 
highest  degree  of  excellence,  unquestionably 
supervised  by  all  the  "  gods  "  of  the  onmipo- 
tent  realm. 

From  the  Malay  Peninsula,  and  ports 
along  the  Celebes  Sea,  our  ship  ploughed 
her  way  to  the  smaller  islands  of  the  Philip- 
pine archipelago,  where  the  crew  had  been 
occupied  for  several  months  placing  beacons 
and  bell-buoys  along  the  rocks  and  shoals. 

Some  time  had  been  spent  in  target  prac- 
tice in  the  China  Sea,  both  shell  and  torpedo, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  run 
to  Zamboango  or  Cebu,  isolated  ports,  the 
monotony  was  intensified  ])y  tlie  lack  of 
news  from  the  outside  world. 

"  Heaving  the  hook  "  (as  the  sailors  say) 
one  cloudy  morning,  as  the  mist  hung  o'er 
the  rice  fields,  the  cruiser  steamed  for  an 
anchorage  of  a  few  days  in  the  waters  of 
Manila  Bay.    Lord,  what  a  relief!    We  had 

119 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

been  coaling  ship  from  colliers,  and  living 
on  "  salt-horse,"  hard-tack,  and  beans  for 
nearly  four  months;  and  this  was  not  the 
worst  of  all,  for  we  had  had  no  mail  from 
home  (anywhere  in  the  good  old  United 
States  was  home) ,  and  mail  in  these  foreign 
ports  was  mighty  precious.  Even  the  poor 
fellow  who  seemed  homeless  and  friendless 
would  listen  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  while 
his  shipmate  read  him  passages  written  by 
some  one  in  the  home  land. 

Arriving  in  Manila  Bay  the  ship  cast 
anchor  off  Cavite,  innumerable  sacks  of  mail 
were  soon  brought  aboard,  and  as  the  master- 
at-arms  yelled  out,  "  Mail  O,  mail  O,  on  the 
starboard  side  of  the  gun-deck!"  a  scrim- 
mage ensued,  such  as  would  make  the  army 
and  navy  foot-ball  contest  look  like  a  game 
of  quoits  at  a  country  fair.  This  day  it 
required  two  assistants  to  the  master-at- 
arms  in  handling  the  bulk  of  letters,  papers, 
and  periodicals  that  had  accumulated  during 
our  absence  from  civilization,  the  distribu- 
tion of  which  reminded  me  of  the  post-office 
scene  from  an  old  sketch  at  Carncross  and 
Dixey's  Philadelphia  "  play-house." 

120 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

Such  queries  as  the  following  could  he 
heard  on  the  deck:  "  How  many  letters  did 
you  get,  Jack?"  "Oh,  1  haven't  counted 
them,  but  here's  a  good  one :  '  Dear  Jack, 
how  is  it  you  never  speak  of  your  room- 
mate? Is  he  tall  or  short?  Where  does  he 
come  from  and  what  is  his  name? '  Now, 
wouldn't  that  shatter  your  shingles?  "  "  Say, 
fellows,  did  you  hear  what  '  Jack  o'  the 
Dust's  '  sweetheart  wrote?  She  wants  to 
know  if  the  Philijjpines  are  anywhere  near 
Germany.  He  is  going  to  ^\Tite  and  tell  her 
tliey  are  a  little  south  of  Germany  and 
China."  "  Hello,  '  Sinbad,'  I  don't  see  you 
reading  any  mail,"  is  jokingly  aimed  at  a 
husky  "  tar,"  whose  derisive  reply  is,  "  Xo, 
nor  you  don't  see  me  answering  advertise- 
ments either."  For  genuine  humor,  the 
arrival  of  mail  a])oard  a  "  man-of-war  "  in 
a  foreign  port  is  one  droll  dramatic  comedy. 

Three  weeks  later  found  the  flag-ship 
gracing  the  bay  of  Nagasaki,  where  Baron 
Kaneko  and  party  of  envoys  boarded  the 
cruiser,  as  guests  of  .Admiral  Hodgers,  for 
a  trip  through  the  Inland  Sea. 

The  first  port  tlie  vessel  steamed  for  was 

121 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 

Mitsugahamo,  whose  land-locked  harbor 
was  entered  toward  evening,  the  blazing 
sheen  of  the  setting  sun  tingeing  a  deep  sap- 
phirine  sky,  reflecting  from  the  mirror-like 
bay  to  the  craggy  cliiFs  whose  contour  shone 
in  amethystine  beauty.  As  the  sun  sank 
behind  the  cliffs,  the  iron  clang  of  clatter- 
ing chains  was  heard  lowering  the  anchors. 
This  American  ship  had  been  the  first  foreign 
vessel  to  enter  the  channel  of  this  sacred 
port  of  the  pristine  Shoguns. 

The  people  of  this  island,  in  their  more 
than  semi-nudeness,  courtesied  to  the  ground 
on  meeting  the  Americans,  offering  their 
broad  sun-shades  during  the  day,  and  pro- 
viding sandals  for  the  visitor  who  on  enter- 
ing their  pretty  bamboo  homes  is  required 
to  remove  his  shoes. 

Morality  in  Japan  has  been  decried  as 
being  lax;  the  assertion  in  my  estimation  is 
a  libel,  when  attended  with  more  weight 
than  should  be  given  other  countries.  From 
my  personal  observation  of  countries,  the 
customs  and  manners  of  their  people,  the 
records  of  divorce  courts,  mutual  separa- 
tions, desertions,  and  the  "red-light"  signals 

122 


Soldier     Ashorr     and     Afloat 


to  the  uiukiworld  of  the  kirgc  cities,  I  would 
place  the  Japanese  fourth,  and  in  so  doing 
begin  tlie  line  of  comparison  within  the  con- 
fines of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts. 

In  the  villages  of  ^litsugahamo  cleanli- 
ness was  the  dominating  virtue;  carefully 
swept  streets  were  offset  by  bamboo  fences 
enclosing  productive  gardens  and  rockeries 
with  plants  of  Haunting  blossoms.  Hard- 
wood carving  and  lacquer  work  employed  a 
large  number  of  the  men,  while  the  women, 
with  their  little  tycoons  strapped  like  a 
papoose,  were  engaged  in  weaving  silk  on  a 
loom  or  in  fancy  ])aintingand  embroidering. 

The  people  of  this  island  seemed  to  be  the 
typical  Japanese  aborigines,  there  being  no 
indication  of  a  mixture  of  ])lood,  such  as  is 
seen  in  such  seaport  cities  as  Nagasaki  and 
Yokohama. 

Our  next  visit  of  importance  was  to  the 
sacred  island  of  Miyajima,  where  legend 
tells  us  a  sacred  fire  has  been  burning  for 
three  thousand  years.  For  ages  past  there 
has  been  neither  a  birth  nor  a  death  chron- 
icled on  this  strange  island  of  the  "  Rising 
Sun."      Indisposition   of  health   is   immedi- 

123 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

ately  attended  by  deportation,  while  the 
quarantine  officials  cautiously  examine  every 
subject  for  any  disorder  that  might  tend  to 
suddenly  snuiF  out  the  light  of  existence, 
and,  like  the  parable  of  the  ten  virgins,  those 
whose  lights  are  dimly  burning  cannot  enter 
in.  (See  25th  chapter  of  ]Matthew,  records 
of  orthodoxy. )  After  visiting  various  other 
ports  of  unpronounceable  names,  our  ship 
steamed  to  the  city  of  Kobe,  described  in  a 
previous  narrative.  Ljdng  in  the  harbor 
were  the  British  battleship  Endymion,  two 
Italian  cruisers,  a  German  battleship,  two 
Russian  monitors,  and  the  Japanese  battle- 
ship Hatsuse.  The  following  day  the  base- 
ball team  of  the  cruiser  New  York,  having 
accepted  a  challenge,  went  ashore  to  cross 
bats  with  the  "Kobe  Country  Club,"  the 
members  of  which  were  more  than  eager  to 
blot  out  the  stigma  of  their  previous  defeat. 
The  day  was  an  ideal  baseball  day  in  every 
respect ;  a  cool  breeze  blew  through  the  park 
in  the  west  end  of  the  city,  while  thick  gray 
clouds  shut  off  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun. 
On  reaching  the  "  diamond,"  the  Amer- 
ican contingent,  consisting  of  the  baseball 

124 


So  1(1  id     Ashore     and     Afloat 


team  chaperoned  by  Chaplain  Chichvick,  the 
band,  and  every  avaiUible  man  whose  duties 
(hd  not  prevent  him  from  getting  ashore, 
were  given  an  ovation  by  a  mixture  of  Jap- 
anese, Russian,  Italian,  and  English  voices 
resembling  somewhat  the  noise  in  "  Chey- 
enne Joe's  "  Rocky  jNIountain  Inn  during 
the  "  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition."  The 
grandstand  was  thronged  with  officers  and 
wives,  representing  the  Japanese  army  and 
the  vessels  of  various  nations,  numerous 
tourists,  and  butterfly  geishas  attired  in 
pretty  silk  kimonos;  it  was  also  noticeable 
that  the  xVmerican  party  was  augmented  by 
Captain  and  ^Irs.  Putnam  Bradley  Strong, 
widely  known  in  both  hemispheres. 

With  the  rendition  of  popular  selections 
In-  the  band,  the  game  opened  with  clever 
playing  on  both  sides,  the  Xetc  York's  bat- 
tery and  in-field  having  a  shade  the  better 
of  the  game,  though  the  out-field  of  the 
"  Country  Club  "  did  excellent  service  in 
stopping  the  sphere,  which  was  pounded 
hard  by  the  Americans.  The  game  was  very 
pretty  in  all  its  details,  resulting  in  a  victory 
for  the  ''  blue  jackets  ";  score,  5  to  3. 

125 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

After  the  game  had  closed,  it  was  amus- 
ing to  hear  the  admirers  of  our  opponents 
expressing  their  opinions  as  to  what  might 
have  been  the  result  if  the  short-stop  had 
only  swung  to  "  first "  instead  of  "  home," 
how  a  double  play  could  have  been  made, 
putting  the  side  out  and  preventing  a  score, 
et  cetera. 

In  the  evening,  with  some  friends  whom 
I  had  met  on  a  previous  visit,  I  journeyed 
to  the  "  club,"  where  the  conversation  was 
all  baseball;  after  the  fine  points  of  the 
game  had  been  discussed,  it  was  unanimously 
decided  that,  it  being  too  late  to  perform  a 
diagnosis,  an  autopsy  should  be  held,  some- 
body even  suggested  an  inquest;  however, 
let  it  suffice,  that  the  obsequies  terminated 
ceremoniously,  with  the  pathetic  recital  of 
"  Casey  at  the  bat "  by  W.  P.  Bradley,  an 
American.  In  the  British  army  during  its 
hard-fighting  days,  when  the  loss  of  so  many 
soldiers  had  a  depressing  effect  on  those 
who  attended  their  departed  heroes  to  the 
grave,  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  have  the 
band  play  inspiring  airs,  immediately  fol- 
lowing the  last  notes  of  "  taps,"  which  inva- 

126 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

riahly  liad  a  cheering  eft'cct  on  tlie  soldiers; 
this  was  accompanied  by  a  social  gathering 
at  the  "  canteen,"  where  deep  dranghts,  in 
comnninion  and  good  fellowship,  were 
quaffed  from  the  "  flowing  howl." 

The  sad  loss  the  "  Kobe  Country  Club  " 
had  suffered  on  the  "  diamond  "  this  day 
had  enjoined  the  members  to  seek  recourse 
to  the  above  custom,  and  verily  I  disclose 
unto  those  in  attendance  that  night  in  Japan, 
if,  with  the  awakening  of  the  dawn,  your 
feverish  brows  throbbed  for  cracked  ice  as 
mine  did,  my  sympathy  for  you  is  un- 
bounded. 

During  the  celebration  this  night  at  the 
club,  each  guest  performed  some  little  sketch 
of  his  own;  an  officer  of  the  British  battle- 
ship Endjimion,  being  pressed  "  real  hard  " 
for  a  song,  was  finally  prevailed  upon  for  a 
selection.  Taking  a  position  at  the  piano, 
he  skilfully  ran  over  the  keys,  then,  turning, 
addressed  the  club  as  follows:  "Gentle- 
men, am  noutc  at  'ome  in  the  voucal  loine, 
but,  if  you  must  'ave  a  song,  a'l  endeavor 
tf)  sing  a  selection  sent  to  me  by  an  aeold 
friend  in  the  United  States,  entitled,  '  I'd 

127 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 

leave  my  'appy  'ome  for  you,  double  o, 
double  o.'  "  We  Americans  who  had  heard 
the  song  in  the  "  States  "  knew  the  title  to 
be,  "  I'd  leave  my  happy  home  for  you,  oo, 
00."  Turning  to  the  piano,  our  friend 
commenced : 

"  I'd  leave  my  'appy  *ome  for  you,  double  o,  double  o ; 
For  you're  the  sweetest  girl  I  ever  knew,  double  o, 
double  o," 

et  cetera.  Well,  the  chuckling  expressions 
of  mirth  that  this  ridiculous  song  brought 
forth  created  a  laughable  scene.  Once 
begun,  the  fellow  was  unwilling  to  stop ;  he 
evidently  had  hysteria,  and  thought  the 
laughing  applause,  for  he  pounded  away  on 
the  keys,  and  rang  in  double  o,  whether  it 
fitted  or  not,  until,  finally,  a  brother  officer 
went  to  him  and  whispered  something  in 
his  ear,  whereupon  he  ceased,  and  joined  in 
the  laugh  with  all  the  attributes  of  a  good 
sport. 

Many  of  the  crew  had  planned  a  visit  to 
the  quaint  inland  city  Osaka ;  but  the  destiny 
of  the  soldier  and  sailor  is  one  of  absolute 
uncertainty.      This    time    the    unexpected 

128 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


appeared  in  the  shape  of  an  order,  directing 
that  the  cruiser  proceed  at  once  under  forced 
draft  to  ^lanihi,  a  distance  of  1400  miles. 
All  kinds  of  rumors  ran  afloat,  the  one  pre- 
dominating hcingthat  a  German  ship  caught 
smuggling  arms  to  the  insurgents  had  been 
fired  on  by  the  gun-boat  Nashville;  this, 
however,  seemed  absurd,  though  not  im- 
probable. It  was  evident,  at  any  rate,  that 
something  of  a  serious  nature  needed  repair- 
ing, as  consultations  in  the  admiral's  cabin 
by  the  flag-officers  and  captain  were  at  fever 
heat.  The  following  day  at  dawn,  coaling 
ship  was  commenced  by  a  motley  throng  of 
natives,  who  kept  a  continuous  stream  of 
coal  pouring  into  the  bunkers,  whicli  ])y 
night-fall  contained  two  hundred  and  fifty 
tons.  At  two  bells  (9  o'clock)  the  ship  had 
been  thoroughly  cleansed,  and  at  four  bells 
(10  o'clock)  anchors  were  weiglicd,  and  the 
"  bull-dog  of  war  "  ploughed  madly  through 
the  waters  of  the  phosphorous  deep.  Fair 
weather  prevailed  througliout  the  voyage, 
alleviating  to  some  extent  the  labor  of  the 
coal-passers  below,  who  by  their  strcnuoiis 
eflforts  kept  the  cruiser  under  forced  draft, 

9  120 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

driving  her  through  the  "  briny  "  swells  and 
into  Manila  Bay  in  less  than  four  days. 
Casting  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Cavite, 
booms  were  spread,  launches  lowered,  and 
we  immediately  learned  of  our  mission,  of 
the  terrible  massacre  of  Company  "  G  "  of 
the  Ninth  Infantry,  General  Chaffee's  old 
command,  at  the  hands  of  the  barbarous 
bolo-men  of  Samar,  the  company  having 
been  taken  by  surprise  while  at  breakfast. 

Most  everj^  person  is  familiar  with  the 
horror  of  this  massacre  on  the  Island  of 
Samar  in  October,  1901 ;  of  how  the  savages 
stealthily  crept  upon  the  sentries,  dispatch- 
ing them  with  a  thrust  of  the  bolo,  as  one 
might  blow  out  a  flame,  so  adroit  and  silent 
was  the  operation;  how,  at  a  signal  given, 
one  detachment  secured  the  arms  in  the  bar- 
racks, as  another  made  the  fatal  charge  at 
the  mess-hall,  where  one  of  the  bloodiest 
struggles  ensued  that  has  been  recorded 
since  the  battle  of  the  "  Alamo,"  one  or  two 
soldiers  of  a  whole  company  miraculously 
escaping  to  tell  the  tale. 

Great  activity  was  at  once  begun  on  board 
the  vessel,  when  it  was  learned  that  the  army 

130 


ScWdler     Asliore     and     Afloat 


and  navy  were  to  co-operate  in  suppressing 
hostilities  among  the  ferocious  tribes  of  this 
jungle  island,  whose  leader,  the  squinty- 
alniond-eyed  insurgent  General  I^ukban, 
had  defiantly  sneered  at  foreign  authority. 
Provisions  and  ammunition  were  stored  in 
the  hold,  numerous  three-inch  rifles,  Colt 
automatics,  and  one-pounders  secured  on 
deck,  while  four  Kentucky  mules  to  be  used 
in  dragging  the  gims  occupied  stalls  amid- 
shij)s.  After  the  munitions  of  war  had  been 
carefully  stored  and  the  minor  details  of 
the  expedition  completed,  ]Major  (now 
Colonel)  L.  W.  T.  Waller,  with  his  bat- 
talion of  three  hundred  marines,  ])oarded  the 
cruiser.  This  gallant  battalion  had  recently 
returned  from  China,  where  their  valiant 
bravery  before  the  gates  of  Pckin  had  been 
attested  by  the  troops  of  all  nations. 

What  a  scene  this  was  on  board  a  man- 
of-war! — seven  hundred  sailors  in  the 
fashion  of  the  sea,  and  three  hundred 
marines  in  the  garb  of  the  field,  all  ready, 
as  mad  Anthony  Wayne  said,  to  storm  hell 
if  necessary. 

One    of    the    most    magnificent    military 

131 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

scenes  and  inspired  feeling  I  have  ever  expe- 
rienced was  on  that  bahiiy  October  morning 
in  the  year  1901,  as  I  reported  to  Admiral 
Rodgers,  six  bells  and  underway.  The 
band  had  struck  up,  "  Tramp,  tramp,  tramp, 
the  boys  are  marching,"  as  the  entire  sortie 
joined  in  the  singing: 

"  Damn,  damn,  damn  the  Filipinos, 
Pock-marked,  almond-eyed  ladrones, 
And  beneath  the  starry  flag 
We'll  civilize  them  with  the  '  Krag,' 
Then  we'll  journey  to  our  old  beloved  homes." 

This  was  a  gala  day  for  all  on  board; 
burnished  bayonets  glittered  in  the  noon- 
day's sun,  while  the  khaki  uniforms  of  the 
soldiers  of  the  sea  contrasted  with  the  im- 
maculate white  of  the  sailors. 

The  officers  of  the  battalion  to  a  man  were 
soldiers,  like  those  of  the  St.  Louis  battalion, 
thorough  in  the  art  of  war;  men  who  had 
proved  themselves  in  active  service ;  unlike  a 
few  under  whom  I  served,  who  broke  into 
the  army  in  '98  and  earlier,  whose  non- 
commissioned officers  were  required  to  draw 
their  topographical  outlines,  and  who,  were 

132 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


it  necessary  to  depend  on  their  merits  in 
civil  life,  would  suffer  incompetency  in  a 
country  grocery. 

The  voyage  down  the  coast  was  one  grand 
round  of  pleasure;  apparently  it  was  "an 
excursion "  for  the  men  who  had  fought 
their  way  through  Tien  Tsin  on  to  Pekin, 
and  with  Riley's  battery,  the  Ninth  and  the 
Fourteenth  Infantry,  had  battered,  rammed, 
fired,  and  scaled  the  walls  of  the  Forbidden 
City.  On  the  gun-deck  of  the  man-of-war 
talented  musicians  of  the  battalion  kept  an 
incessant  flow  of  music  in  action,  a  piano 
accompanying  the  popular  songs  of  the  sea 
and  field,  as  rendered  in  their  true  originality 
by  some  whose  bones  were  doomed  to  bleach 
on  the  gruesome  battle-fields  of  Samar. 

Lieutenant  "  Jack  "  Gridley,  ever  pop- 
ular with  the  officers  and  men,  in  whose  com- 
pany the  writer  had  served,  cheerfully 
announced  the  proceedings  of  the  pro- 
gramme. It  was  far  from  our  thoughts 
that  night  that  this  brave  son  of  the  captain 
of  the  historic  OUjmpia,  after  braving  the 
dangers  of  war,  must  suffer  the  wiles  of  the 
grim  reaper  in  peace,  in  the  terrible  explo- 
sion aboard  the  battleship  Missouri. 

133 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

About  midnight  of  the  second  day,  while 
cruising  along  the  coast  of  Samar,  under  the 
cover  of  darkness,  signal-lights  could  be 
seen  dimly  burning  at  points  of  vantage. 
With  the  aid  of  night  binoculars  a  camp  of 
insurgents  was  discovered  bivouacked  along 
the  side  of  the  mountains,  several  miles  up 
the  coast  from  Catabalogan.  A  powerful 
search-light  thrown  on  this  scene  made  the 
enemy  clearly  visible,  and  great  activity 
could  be  seen  among  the  insurgents,  as  if 
startled  by  impending  danger.  With  great 
accuracy  of  aim  an  eight-inch  shell  was 
dropped  in  the  camp;  this  was  followed  by 
a  bombardment  of  the  coast,  in  which  the 
broadside  batteries  flashed  their  deadly 
munitions  of  war,  creating  terrible  havoc  and 
demoralizing  the  enemy.  Dropping  anchor 
in  the  harbor  of  Catabalogan,  the  cruiser 
was  met  by  the  Zafiro,  which  conveyed  the 
battalion  to  Balangiga,  the  scene  of  the 
slaughter  of  the  Ninth. 

The  following  day  the  sad  news  of  the 
death  of  Midshipman  Noya  reached  the 
Netv  York,  being  the  first  naval  officer  killed 
in  the  Samar  campaign.     Cadet  Noya  was 

134 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


of  the  class  of  1900,  Annapolis  Academy; 
his  death  was  attributed  largely  to  the  fact 
of  his  having  wt)rn  a  white  uniform  on  shore. 
xVt  about  live  o'clock  in  the  evening  of 
October  27,  1901,  accompanied  by  half  a 
dozen  sailors,  he  went  ashore  at  Nippa- 
Xippa  near  the  bay  to  look  for  suspected 
smugglers.  Sending  four  of  the  men  into 
the  town,  he  remained  on  the  beach  while 
the  two  men  in  the  boat  retired  about  two 
hundred  yards  from  shore.  His  white  uni- 
form evidently  attracted  attention,  and 
unseen  by  him  a  dozen  bolo-men  crept  upon 
the  officer;  there  was  a  noiseless  rush,  he 
was  felled  with  a  bolo  wound  and  his  pistol 
taken,  with  which  they  shot  him.  The  men 
in  the  boat,  hearing  his  cry,  leaped  over- 
board and  half  waded,  half  swam  to  his 
rescue;  they  reached  him  while  he  was  still 
conscious.  "  Men,  l)e  very  careful ;  they 
have  taken  my  revolver,"  he  murmured, 
and  died.  The  remains  were  placed  in  the 
])oat  (the  others  having  returned)  and  taken 
to  Catabalogan.  A  sailor  had  wig-wagged 
across  the  bay,  and  as  the  body  arrived  at  the 
dock  it  was  met  by  a  cortege  consisting  of 

13.-) 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

General  Smith,  Admiral  Rodgers,  Chaplain 
Chidwick,  and  others. 

Some  time  was  spent  in  making  primary 
arrangements  for  the  final  resting-place, 
which  consisted,  in  that  hostile  country  at 
that  time,  of  turning  over  the  sod  and  organ- 
izing a  firing  squad.  A  heavy  rain  fell  as 
the  procession  was  formed  at  the  dock  in  the 
following  order :  Military  band,  detachment 
of  soldiers,  naval  band,  detachment  of 
sailors,  body,  pall-bearers,  and  mourners, 
consisting  of  members  of  the  army  and  navy. 
To  the  slow  music  of  a  dirge,  the  procession 
moved  out  of  town  to  the  little  National 
cemetery  on  the  hill-side.  Here  the  mourn- 
ers drew  up  about  the  grave  while  the  solemn 
burial  service  was  read  by  Chaplain  Chid- 
wick, who  took  this  occasion  to  make  a  few 
remarks  on  the  character  of  the  deceased. 
As  the  chaplain  concluded  his  remarks,  the 
firing  squad  of  soldiers  drew  up,  and  three 
sharp  clear  volleys  rang  out  over  the  open 
grave,  followed  by  the  ever-beautiful  sound 
of  "  taps,"  concluding  the  service.  As  the 
first  clods  fell  in  the  grave,  the  military  band 
struck  up  a  lively  two-step  and  led  the  pro- 

136 


Soldier     A  shore     and     Afloat 


cession  back  to  town;  at  the  same  time  the 
rain  ceased,  the  eh)nds  rolled  away,  and 
glorious  sunshine  covered  the  land,  symbolic 
of  the  beauty  of  life  beyond  the  grave. 

Samar  is  one  of  the  large  islands  of  the 
Philipjiines  group,  lying  west  of  the  archi- 
pelago between  JNIindanao  and  I^uzon. 
Catabalogan,  on  the  western  slope,  is  the 
chief  town  and  capital.  xVlong  the  coast 
there  is  considerable  cultivation,  but  the 
balance  of  the  island  is  mountainous,  rugged, 
and  sharp,  with  high  precipitous  declivities, 
rocky  defiles,  and  deep  gullies,  surround- 
ing and  entangling  which  are  dense  jungles 
almost  impenetrable;  such  were  the  haunts 
of  the  savage  bolo-men,  who,  like  the 
"  Fuzzy  Wuzzy  "  of  Kipling,  were  sociable 
but  full  of  fight. 

An  order  issued  by  General  Smith  read  as 
follows:  "All  soldiers  on  the  islands  of 
Samar  and  Leyte  must  be  armed  at  all 
times,  arise  an  hour  before  daybreak  and 
stand  under  arms  till  ])reakfast;  any  officer 
whose  men  shall  be  surprised  through  disobe- 
dience of  these  orders  will  be  punished  as  a 
court-martial  may  direct.     Scouting  parties 

137 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

must  be  kept  up  incessantly,  crops  destroyed, 
villages  burned,  and  smugglers  killed;  the 
enemy  must  be  made  to  feel,  as  General 
Sherman  said,  that  '  War  is  hell.'  " 

A  paragraph  from  the  general's  congratu- 
lations on  the  success  of  the  expedition  read: 
"  Success  by  barefooted  Americans  began  at 
Valley  Forge,  and  I  am  proud  to  know  that 
the  same  indomitable  spirit  which  won  in 
spite  of  obstacles,  over  one  hundred  years 
ago,  has  shown  itself  in  Samar." 

A  fleet  of  small  gun-boats  captured  from 
the  Spanish  had  been  doing  yeoman  service 
around  Samar,  in  cutting  off  supplies  to 
Lukban's  forces  from  the  other  islands. 
They  had  destroyed  hundreds  of  barotes 
and  burned  numerous  villages.  In  fact  the 
Island  of  Samar  was  completely  blockaded, 
with  the  exception  of  the  narrow  strip  of 
the  Gandarra  Straits  separating  the  island 
from  Leyte.  A  spy  in  the  habit  of  a  friar 
arrived  on  the  vessel  in  the  darkness  of  the 
night,  with  the  information  that  banco  after 
banco  loaded  with  rice  was  being  smuggled 
across  the  straits.  Volunteers  were  called 
for,  to  ascend  this  small  channel  in  a  steam- 

138 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


launch.  Having  volunteered  for  this  special 
dut}',  we  set  to  work  at  once,  our  comple- 
ment consisting  of  four  midshipmen,  four 
marines,  and  four  sailors.  Stripping  the 
canopy  oft'  the  steam-launch,  two  one- 
pounders  were  mounted  fore  and  aft,  while 
a  Colt  automatic  resting  on  a  tripod  occu- 
pied the  centre  of  the  boat.  Each  man 
carried,  besides  his  rifle  and  revolver,  a  belt 
containing  three  hundred  rounds  of  ammu- 
nition and  an  extra  bandoleer. 

About  midnight,  with  fires  secured,  we 
shoved  off"  under  cover  of  darkness  for  the 
entrance  to  the  channel.  On  reaching  it  we 
could  see,  in  the  distance  along  its  shores,  a 
fire  dimly  burning;  steaming  quietly 
through  the  stream,  closely  hugging  the 
shore,  about  two  miles  had  been  covered 
from  the  ship,  when  a  cumbersome  object 
was  seen  drifting  across  the  straits.  "Ah! 
a  banco,"  was  whispered,  as  if  uttered  by 
the  voice  of  a  buccaneer.  The  midshii)man 
in  command  immediately  trained  the  for- 
ward one-pounder  as  near  the  water  line  of 
the  "  smuggler "  as  could  be  discerned 
through  the  gloom.    As  the  coxswain  swung 

139 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  launch  to  a  port  side  position  in  a  shallow 
eddy,  the  aft  one-pounder  and  Colt  auto- 
matic were  trained  for  operation. 

Each  man  crouched  close  to  the  gunwale 
as  the  order  to  halt  was  given  by  the 
"  middy  "  at  the  forward  gun.  This  com- 
mand was  replied  to  by  a  shot,  momentarily 
followed  by  a  whizzing  fusillade  of  steel- 
jackets  in  dangerous  proximity,  several 
penetrating  the  smoke-funnel.  As  the  low 
bang  of  the  one-pounders  rang  tlirough  the 
midnight,  the  sweeping  rattle  of  the  Colt 
automatic  played  its  deadly  missiles  like 
rain-drops  on  a  tin  roof.  Unearthly  yells 
arose  from  the  surface  of  the  straits,  as  the 
banco  was  seen  to  sink.  At  this  juncture  a 
volley  rang  out  from  the  opposite  shore; 
turning  the  Colt  in  the  direction  where  the 
flash  of  the  guns  could  be  seen,  the  beach 
was  swept  and  jungle  riddled,  silencing  the 
guns  of  the  enemy.  While  rescuing  a  native 
who  in  the  agony  of  fear  and  bewilderment 
was  drowning  near  the  launch,  several  shots 
were  fired  from  the  jungle  on  our  side  of 
the  stream.  It  being  impossible  to  train 
the  Colt  from  the  position  we  held,  we  waded 

140 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


to  the  bcacli,  where,  creeping  to  an  opening 
in  the  jungle,  we  pumped  volley  after  volley 
with  our  "  Krags "  into  the  surrounding 
wilderness.  As  the  moon  broke  through  the 
clouds,  the  silhouette  of  a  group  of  natives 
could  be  seen  prowling  on  the  opposite 
shore  some  distance  up  the  straits.  Having 
accomplished  our  mission,  we  returned  to  the 
ship  with  a  live  specimen  of  the  spoils,  who 
for  safe  keeping  was  confined  to  a  cell  in 
the  "  brig."  Next  morning  the  savage  was 
loath  to  talk  until,  after  a  breakfast  of  cold 
salmon,  he  told  us  that  the  banco  contained 
eiixht  natives,  of  whom  he  was  the  sole  sur- 
vivor,  that  their  cargo  consisted  of  rice  con- 
signed to  Lukban's  forces  in  Samar.  A 
detail  escorted  the  prisoner  ashore,  where  he 
was  turned  over  to  the  army.  The  following 
day  the  small  gun-boat  Garduqui,  of  the 
"  mosquito  fleet,"  was  ordered  into  the 
channel,  sounding  her  way  clear  through 
the  straits.  The  natives  were  hemmed  in  on 
all  sides  and  reports  of  smuggling  ceased. 

Near  Balayan,  as  a  member  of  a  landing 
party  that  stormed  and  burned  a  number  of 
villages,   I    secured   a   unique   relic,    in   the 

141 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

shape  of  a  Spanish  trumpet  that  had  served 
some  hidalgo  in  the  days  of  the  empire. 

Every  day  brought  news  to  the  cruiser  of 
the  excellent  work  of  the  soldiers  and 
marines.  In  carrying  out  the  orders  of  Gen- 
erals Smith  and  Hughes,  the  boys  were 
sweeping  everything  before  them,  driving 
the  murderous  natives  to  either  death  or 
surrender.  Victor,  who  had  led  the  assault 
in  the  slaughter  of  the  Ninth  Infantry,  had 
fallen  victims  to  the  marines,  and  the  splen- 
did culmination  to  a  successful  campaign 
was  the  surrender  of  twelve  hundred  bolo- 
men  with  their  various  implements  of  war- 
fare. 

After  swearing  allegiance  to  the  United 
States,  these  savage  jungle  warriors  were 
allowed  their  freedom. 

The  island  having  been  pacified,  a  number 
of  the  troops  were  recalled,  though  the 
blockade  was  continued  by  the  Vichshurg , 
Nashville,  and  the  small  gun-boats  of  the 
mosquito  fleet. 

The  flag-ship  New  York,  having  com- 
pleted her  mission  in  the  Samar  campaign, 
steamed  back  to  Luzon,  where  a  fortnight 

142 


Soldier     Ashore    and    Afloat 

was  spent  in  ^lanila  Bay  ere  she  steamed 
out,  under  an  azure  sky,  to  the  shores  of 
fair  Japan. 

Back  to  the  land  of  tlio  "  Rising  Sun  " 
\\lifrc  the  blood-red  poppies  grow, 

To  the  minarets  of  tlir  Inland  Soa 
And  the  "  geishas  "  of  Tokio. 

NOTE. 

This  being  merely  a  narrative  of  that  part  of  the 
Saniar  eampaign  that  fell  under  my  personal  observa- 
tion, without  any  pretence  to  an  elaboration  or  an 
historical  account,  1  desire  to  say  that  it  would  be 
doing  a  great  injustice  to  the  gallant  battalion  of 
marines,  conveyed  by  the  flag-ship  New  York  to  the 
scenes  of  the  depredations  of  the  treacherous  natives, 
were  I  not  to  inform  the  reader  that,  in  order  to 
portray  in  detail  the  hardships  endured  by  the  men 
of  Major  Waller's  command,  it  would  be  necessary  to 
have  a  more  comprehensive  knowledge  of  the  data, 
and  a  very  keen  ability,  in  order  to  expedite  the  union 
of  the  composite  stages  of  this  diversified  expedition: 
of  the  harassing  and  almost  incredible  obstacles  en- 
countered; the  personal  courage,  determination,  and 
zeal,  each  step  treading  its  own  dangers;  the  attack 
u])on  the  overwhelming  force  of  insurgents  in  tlie 
cliffs  along  the  Sojoton  River,  where  it  was  necessary 
to  elevate  the  tliree-inch  field-jiieces  till  they  were 
almost  vertical,   the  cliffs   being  nearly   tM'o   hundred 

143 


Exploits   of  a    Soldier 


feet  high,  and  well-nigh  impregnable;  the  attempts  at 
scaling  these  cliffs  by  means  of  bamboo  ladders;  the 
various  engagements  in  which  innumerable  insurgents 
and  many  Americans  were  killed;  the  travel  of  hun- 
dreds of  miles  through  jungle  wilderness,  by  the  half- 
starved,  bare-footed  marines;  the  burning  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty-five  shacks  en  route  to  Liruan, 
where  death  lurked  in  concealed  spear-pits;  the  ter- 
rible execution  of  the  Colt  automatics;  the  revolt  of 
the  native  help,  their  execution,  and  the  sensational 
court-martial  that  followed,  attended  by  the  honorable 
exoneration  of  the  defendants,  et  cetera;  of  the 
admirable  work  of  the  army,  and  fourth  company  of 
Macabebe  scouts,  and  numerous  side-lights  on  this 
novel  campaign  of  warfare,  that  would  tax  the  fertile 
brain  of  the  experienced  author  in  their  portrayal. 


VIII. 

The  Cowbov  Soldier,  a  Coincidence 


Departure  for  New  Orleans — Arrival  at  the  Capital — 
The  Soldiers— Peach  Tree  Street,  Atlanta — Christen- 
ing of  the  "  Peace-togs  " — New  Orleans — The  Levee 
— Creoles — The  Race-track — A  Quadroon-ball — The 
Farandole  and  La  Bourree — Madame  La  Bouchere, 
Goddess  of  Sorcery — The  ^L1rdi  Gras — The  Plaza 
de  Goiti,  ^Linila — The  Coincidence. 

One  crisp  wintry  afternoon  late  in  the 
month  of  January,  1899,  having  bade  adieu 
to  a  party  of  boon  companions  at  a  Httle 
railway  station  in  the  Bkie  Ridge  moun- 
tains of  Pennsylvania,  I  ensconced  myself 
on  the  cushions  of  the  smoking-compartment 
of  the  Black  Diamond  Express,  lit  a  cigar, 
and  ran  through  the  pages  of  a  popular 
magazine,  possessed  with  a  feeling  of  satis- 
faction that  my  destination.  New  Orleans, 
lay  under  the  warmth  of  Southern  skies,  free 
from  the  bleak  winds  of  the  North,  and  with 
that  suavity  manifest  in  a  person  whose  most 
10  i« 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

arduous  responsibilities  are  those  of  pleasure 
seeking  and  curious  notions. 

Though  having  touched  both  Florida  and 
Texas,  I  had  never  been  as  far  south  as  the 
crescent  city  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi, 
so  that  on  this  trip  it  was  my  object  to 
appease  an  insatiable  desire  by  thoroughly 
acquainting  mj^self  with  the  natural  and  his- 
torical charms  of  this  quaint  old  Southern 
city,  and  particularly  witness  the  festivities 
of  the  Mardi  Gras. 

In  picturing  New  Orleans  in  phantasm,  I 
had  always  had  a  conception  of  a  beautiful 
city  of  Spanish  architecture,  dotted  with 
churches  and  cathedrals  whose  chimes  pealed 
sweetly  overhead,  and  along  whose  flag- 
stone streets  the  beautiful  Creole  belles  vied 
in  angelic  accord  with  their  more  dusky 
sisters,  the  quadroons ;  darkies  rolling  cotton 
bales  on  the  levee,  their  negro  melodies  inter- 
spersed with  the  deep  sonorous  steam-boat 
whistles  on  the  wide-spreading  river ;  haunts 
of  the  vendetta  and  the  mafia;  southern 
homes  shaded  by  palmetto,  whose  confines 
exhaled  in  fragrant  quintessence  the  aroma 
of  magnolia ;  dusky  "  Dinahs  "  in  red  ban- 

146 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

(lamias  pickiiicj  cotton,  as  the  old  negroes 
thruninied  the  lianjocs  near  the  cahin  where 
the  pickaninnies  played  around  the  door. 
These  were  my  early  impressions  of  the  gulf- 
cities  of  "  Dixie-land,"  and  how  many  are 
there  who  have  seen  the  dramatization  of 
Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  "  Uncle  Tom's 
Cabin,"  or  read  George  W.  Cable's  stories 
of  the  Creoles  of  Louisiana,  who  have  not 
])icturcd  just  such  scenes  as  these? 

On  my  arrival  at  ^Vashington.  D.  C,  the 
sun  shone  bright  in  southern  warmth,  in 
combative  contrast  to  the  bleak  sweeping 
winds  of  the  north,  and,  having  ample  time 
in  which  to  reach  Xew  Orleans  before  the 
beginning  of  the  ]Mardi  Gras  season  (St. 
Valentine's  Day),  I  decided  to  see  some  of 
the  points  of  interest  overlooked  on  previous 
visits  to  the  capital.  One  in  particular  was 
the  trip  to  the  toml)  of  General  Washington, 
at  Mount  Vernon,  a  short  but  very  beautiful 
ride  by  steam-boat  on  the  Potomac  River. 

During  this  period  two  weighty  questions 
were  being  handled  by  the  silver-tongued 
orators  of  the  Senate, — namely,  the  ratifica- 
tion of  the  peace  treaty  and  the  retention  of 
147 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  Philippine  Islands.  For  three  days  I 
attended  this  session  of  Congress  to  hear  the 
elucidating  arguments  on  these  subjects,  as 
propounded  by  Senators  Foraker,  Hoar, 
Tillman  and  Vest,  who  seemed  to  handle  in 
arbitrary  opposition  the  burden  of  the  ques- 
tions. These  debates  were  exceedingly 
interesting,  the  eloquent  orators  at  times 
becoming  so  animated  as  to  cast  parliamen- 
tary rules  asunder,  and  occasionally  requir- 
ing the  necessity  of  being  rapped  to  order  by 
the  Speaker  of  the  House. 

After  spending  several  pleasant  days  in 
Washington,  I  journeyed  to  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad  station  to  catch  my  train  on 
the  "  Sea-board  Air  Line  "  for  the  city  of 
Atlanta.  While  having  my  ticket  validated 
for  berth  reservation,  a  very  military-look- 
ing soldier  appeared  at  the  window  of  the 
ticket-office  and  made  inquiries  regarding  a 
train  for  Atlanta,  Georgia.  Having  been 
recently  mustered  out  of  the  service,  I  sought 
to  learn  the  fellow's  regiment;  addressing 
him  interrogatively,  I  was  informed  that  he 
had  enlisted  in  Philadelphia,  and  was  en 
route  to  Fort  McPherson,  Georgia,  to  join 

148 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


the  Third  United  States  Cavalry.  Although 
the  fellow  appeared  very  military,  he  said 
this  was  his  first  enlistment,  but  that  he  had 
just  stepped  out  of  the  stirrups  of  a  saddle 
in  the  Indian  Territory,  where  his  experi- 
ence as  a  cowboy  he  related  in  a  most  inter- 
esting manner.  Boarding  the  train  together, 
we  were  ere  long  engaged  in  a  hand  of 
"  seven  up,"  as  the  wheels  clipped  off  the 
miles  at  the  rate  of  forty-eight  per  hour. 

At  Columbia,  South  Carolina,  the  train 
was  boarded  by  a  large  number  of  soldiers 
of  the  Second  Tennessee  Volunteer  Infan- 
try, who  had  recently  been  mustered  out 
with  their  regiment,  and  were  en  route  to 
their  respective  destinations.  Two  ser- 
geants— namely,  Chirk  and  Gautrell,  two 
very  agreeable  fellows— joined  us  in  a 
sociable  game  of  cards.  Although  they  had 
served  in  a  Tennessee  regiment,  their  homes 
were  in  Georgia.  The  conversation  from 
this  ])()int  ou  was  all  war  talk  and  "  broncho- 
busting."  The  cavalryman's  interesting 
anecdotes  of  branding  and  rojjing  cattle,  the 
tedium  of  the  "  round-uj),"  the  vigilance 
necessary  in  protecting  calves  from  the  howl- 

149 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

ing  coyote,  the  breaking  of  horses,  and  his 
simple  life  as  a  cow-puncher  in  Oklahoma 
and  the  Indian  Territory,  were  as  fasci- 
nating as  "  Pony-tracks "  by  Frederick 
Remington.  Before  reaching  Atlanta  he 
gave  me  his  name,  Harry  K.  Loomis,  and 
said  he  hoped  to  be  assigned  to  Troop  "  M  " 
of  the  Third.  I  handed  him  a  card  with  my 
permanent  address,  at  the  same  time  wishing 
him  a  successful  career  as  a  soldier,  and  hop- 
ing the  fates  would  ordain  the  continuation 
of  a  friendship  that  had  so  suddenly  and 
unexpectedly  sprung  up  between  us  like  a 
preordained  affinity. 

Before  we  had  alighted  from  the  train, 
Gautrell  and  Clark  had  decided  to  see  the 
Mardi  Gras  at  New  Orleans,  and  it  pleased 
me  greatly  to  have  the  company  of  two  such 
jolly  chaps,  whose  liberation  from  the  ardu- 
ous duties  of  a  soldier  animated  them  with 
a  spirit  that  brooked  no  restraint. 

On  our  arrival  in  the  city,  we  journeyed 
to  a  hotel,  where,  after  washing  the  cinders 
from  our  eyelashes  and  submitting  to  a  ton- 
sorial  operation,  we  sat  down  to  a  good  sub- 
stantial Southern  breakfast.    Following  this 

150 


Soldier     Asliore     and     Afloat 


Looniis  bade  the  party  good-by  and  left  to 
eateh  his  ear  for  his  post  of  duty.  As  he  left 
the  grotto-like  cafe  of  the  Poindexter  Hotel, 
Sergeant  Gautrell  remarked,  "  There  is 
about  as  soldierly  a  fellow  as  I  ever  met." 
"  Yes,"  replied  Clark,  "  and  only  a  recruit 
at  that." 

The  soldiers  had  some  shopping  in  the  line 
of  purchasing  an  outfit  of  "  peace-togs,"  as 
the  war  was  over  and  the}'  desired  to  get  on 
a  footing  with  the  common  herd,  as  they 
termed  the  civil  throng;  so,  promising  to 
meet  the  boys  that  afternoon,  I  hopped  on 
a  Peach  Tree  street-car  and  rode  out  to  the 
old  ground  of  the  "  Cotton  Exposition," 
where  1  spent  a  few  hours,  including  my 
return,  which  was  footed  most  of  the  way 
for  the  purpose  of  gazing  on  those  beautiful 
old  Southern  homes,  with  their  unfenced 
lawns  extending  to  the  sidewalks,  likened 
unto  the  suburban  route  leading  to  Willow 
Grove,  Philadelphia,  though  far  in  advance 
in  nature's  loveliness.  Old  colonial  mansions 
of  stained  wood  and  light-gray  stucco — 
sacred  to  the  tread  of  the  marshals  of  a  lost 
cause  and  the  chivalrous  knights  of  ante- 

1.31 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

bellum  days,  whose  fortunes  suffered  ter- 
rible wreck  and  ruin  as  the  Yankees  went 
marching  through  Georgia — dot  the  large 
and  splendid  thoroughfare  for  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  long  rows  of  sombre 
maples;  broad  piazzas,  once  handsome,  now 
grown  picturesque,  draped  by  the  clinging 
myrtles  and  jessamines  that  shed  their 
bright  petals  in  the  sunlight;  orange-blos- 
soms in  drooping  sympathy  with  the  in- 
different but  ever-beautiful  magnolia  in 
brilliant  contrast,  dispelling  all  doubt  as  to 
the  ancestral  aristocracy  of  these  manorial 
mansions. 

It  is  not  at  all  difficult  to  reconstruct  in 
one's  memory  the  past  joyful  scenes  of  these 
quaint  and  lovely  homes,  under  whose  eaves 
avowals  bound  by  the  ties  of  love  have  been 
softly  whispered ;  refusals  sometimes  spoken, 
fidelity  having  previously  been  pledged; 
where  no  heed  was  paid  to  false  news  clan- 
destinely carried  from  schools  for  scandal; 
where  coquetry  was  at  a  minimum;  where 
lies  no  doubt  were  sometimes  nourished  by 
the  organs  of  deceit,  and  where  passion 
yielded  to  the  tempter  only  in  platonic  affec- 

152 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

tion  iiiulfr  tlic  hvio-  of  tlic  mistletoe.  Such 
were  the  cliivah'ous  tlioroiighhred  eliarac- 
teristics  of  these  people  to  the  luanncr  horn. 

If  the  reader  who  has  never  journeyed 
along  the  quaint  old  Peach  Tree  street  of 
Atlanta,  Georgia,  can  imaginatively  depict 
the  moonlight  scene  of  Julia  Marlowe  in 
"  Barbara  Frietchie,"  he  will  have  a  mono- 
mial fac-simile  of  these  old-time  Southern 
homes. 

Returning  to  the  bright  stimulating  thor- 
oughfare fronting  the  Poindexter  Hotel,  I 
alighted  from  my  car  and  entered  the  cafe, 
where  I  learned  that  the  soldiers  had  not  yet 
returned.  After  visiting  various  places  of 
interest,  including  the  Confederate  museum, 
1  returned  to  the  hotel  and  wrote  letters 
until  about  4  o'clock,  when  the  boys  launched 
on  the  scene  in  brand-new  spick  and  s})an 
attire,  everything  completely  modern.  They 
had  made  incjuiries  about  the  train  for  Xew 
Orleans,  which  was  schtHluled  to  leave 
Atlanta  at  12.02  midnight,  over  the  "  Sun- 
set"  route,  giving  us  ample  time  to  attend 
the  theatre.  Clark  proposed  a  christening 
of  the  "  togs";  this  suggestion  was  empha- 

153 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

sized  and  perfunctorily  executed  with  liba- 
tions of  mint- julep.  After  making  reserva- 
tions for  the  "  sleepers,"  we  purchased 
tickets  for  the  "  Primrose  and  West "  min- 
strels. Gautrell  said  he  felt  like  a  new  clock 
after  shedding  his  "  war-clothes,"  and  pro- 
posed an  augmentation  to  the  christening; 
entering  a  "  grill,"  the  order  was  soon  taken 
and  filled  to  the  connoisseurship  of  the 
"  Kentucky  colonel." 

After  a  few  rounds  of  this  delicious 
Southern  beverage,  we  repaired  to  the 
Poindexter,  checked  our  baggage  through 
to  New  Orleans,  and  dined  sumptuously  on 
teal  and  water-cress.  As  the  coffee  and 
cigarettes  were  being  served,  a  trombone 
"  rag  "  burst  forth  from  the  minstrel  band 
near  the  entrance  to  the  theatre;  as  the  last 
notes  of  this  died  away,  we  hastened  to  the 
parquet,  arriving  in  time  for  the  grand  open- 
ing scene.  Having  enjoyed  the  show,  our 
grips  were  collected  at  the  hotel,  and  a  short 
walk  to  the  station  found  us  in  ample  time 
for  the  train.  As  the  Pullman  vestibule 
sleepers  rolled  in,  we  were  not  long  in  get- 
ting aboard  and  having  the  porter  arrange 
the  berths  for  a  night  of  restfid  sleep. 

154 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


Tlie  trip  by  rail  through  the  Gulf  States 
was  enlivened  on  either  side  by  seenery  of 
commanding  excellence.  Cards  were  played, 
and  the  dusky  porter  was  playfully  bullied 
to  the  delight  of  the  news-butcher  who 
seemed  to  dote  on  the  porter's  repartee. 
The  most  important  cities  our  trip  included 
were  Birmingham,  jNIontgomery,  and 
;Mobile.  After  crossing  Lake  Pontchar- 
train,  I  observed,  from  the  dining-car  win- 
dow, the  crescent-shaped  site  of  our  destina- 
tion. On  the  arrival  at  the  station  near  the 
levee,  my  eyes  immediately  feasted  on  what 
had  previously  been  a  dream:  Negroes 
hunmiing  a  medley  as  they  rolled  the  huge 
cotton  bales  along  the  levee  and  aboard  the 
^lississippi  steam-boats;  a  happy-go-lucky 
bunch  of  darkies  whose  hard  work  commands 
a  compensation  of  two  bits  per  hour. 
Gautrell  and  Clark,  being  from  Georgia, 
smiled  at  the  interest  I  took  in  this  scene. 
Strolling  along  Canal  Street,  we  switched  to 
the  left  at  tlic  Clay  monument  and  entered 
St.  Charles  Street,  where  after  a  walk  of 
two  l)l()cks  we  entered  the  magnificent  St. 
Charles  Hotel.     "Everything  taken,  gen- 

155 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

tlemen,"  was  the  clerk's  pert  response  to 
our  request  for  accommodations.  "  The 
]\Iardi  Gras  season,"  he  said,  "  in  the  city 
of  Natcrleajis  is  one  lawg  week  f o'  the  hotels, 
and  without  makine  reservations  in  advance, 
the  chances  fo'  accommodations  is  a  foa  cod 
draw."  He,  however,  directed  us  to  a  splen- 
did place,  in  fact  preferable  to  the  hotel,  a 
small  row  of  flats  on  Carondelet  Street,  with 
modern  conveniences  and  near  the  heart  of 
the  city.  Here  we  engaged  rooms,  free  from 
the  busy  whirl  and  the  bang,  jam,  smash, 
of  the  trunk-line  populace. 

The  city  was  being  profusely  arrayed  in 
its  holiday  attire  for  the  famous  Creole 
fiesta,  the  Mardi  Gras,  which  was  but  three 
days  off.  Large  arches  were  nearing  com- 
joletion,  windows  were  being  decorated  with 
the  prettiest  designs,  while  every  building, 
from  its  gable  to  the  wainscoting  or  founda- 
tion, presented  a  striking  sj^ectacle  with  its 
flabelliform  folds  of  orange  and  black 
drapery. 

A  splendid  trolley  system  affords  an  ele- 
gant view  of  the  entire  city,  every  car  leaves 
and  returns  to  the  Clay  monument  on  Canal 

156 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


Street;  from  these  can  Ke  seen  the  hcaiitiful 
•^rovernment  huihhn<;s,  colleges,  churches, 
cathedral,  race-course,  and  the  historic  city 
park,  on  whose  somhre  site,  in  the  days 
Ijcfore  the  rebellion,  the  affairs  of  honor 
were  settled  with  the  keen  blade  of  the  rapier 
or  flash  of  the  pistol,  the  staid  old  oaks 
remaining  as  monuments,  but  unable  to  bear 
testimony  to  the  duels  they  sheltered  in  past 
generations.  T.ake  Pontchartrain,  a  broad 
expanse  of  water  connecting  with  the  (iulf 
of  Mexico,  is  the  daily  scene  in  season  of 
fishermen  making  a  haul  of  the  finny  deni- 
zens of  all  species. 

Hiding  out  Ih'suline  Avenue  you  see, 
flying  over  the  paddock  and  immense  grand- 
stand of  the  world-renowned  race-track,  the 
colors  of  the  Crescent  City  Jockey  Club 
gently  floating  in  the  breeze;  the  grassy 
carpet  of  the  inclosure,  encircled  by  the  red- 
shale  turf,  around  which  the  lithe-limbed 
thoroughbreds  dash  for  the  wire  in  incom- 
municable antagony,  exerting  every  fibre  as 
if  conscious  of  the  trium])h  of  a  victory. 
Here  may  be  seen  during  the  winter  meet 
the  most  noted  race-horses,  trainers,  jock- 

157 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

eys,  judges,  bookmakers,  plungers,  touts, 
and  race-course  patronage  of  the  modern 
turf,  some  backing  the  favorites,  while 
others  (experienced  handicappers)  play  the 
long  shots.  After  the  races,  "  Farbachers  " 
cafe  on  Royal  Street,  a  famous  resort  for 
the  turf  element,  was  daily  the  evening 
scene  of  extravagant  gayety,  particularly 
by  those  patrons  whose  plunging  had  been 
favored  by  fortune. 

It  had  occurred  to  Gautrell,  himself  of 
French  extraction,  that  he  had  often  heard 
of  New  Orleans  "  gumbo  "  as  being  a  dish 
par  excellence;  having  sauntered  into  this 
famous  hostelry,  "  okra  gumbo  "  for  three 
was  ordered.  Unlike  "  chilli-concarni,"  the 
staff  of  life  of  the  Mexicans,  "  okra  gumbo," 
though  prepared  from  okra,  meats,  and 
vegetables,  is  devoid  of  cayenne  pepper 
flavor.  Clark,  who  had  evidently  never 
sampled  "  tobasco  sauce,"  remarked  that 
catsup  came  in  very  small  bottles  in  New 
Orleans,  at  the  same  time  drawing  the 
stopper  and  pouring  the  fiery  liquid  over  his 
"  gumbo  "  like  so  much  "  Worcestershire." 
As  the  tears  filled  Clark's  eyes,  he  said,"  Fel- 

158 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


lows,  if  this  is  what  you  call  par  excellence . 
^o  to  it,  but  none  of  it  lor  mine,"  then,  with 
a  mouthful  of  ice,  si^^nalled  the  waiter. 
"  ^^'aiter,"  he  said,  "  kindly  remove  this 
bonfire  and  bring  me  a  pineapple-frappee 
quick."  "  Gumbo"  was  relished  by  the  bal- 
ance of  the  party,  but  Clark  could  never  be 
induced  to  give  it  another  trial. 

The  pool-rooms  of  the  races  along  Royal 
Street  are  attractive  halls  of  amusement; 
bookmakers  screened  from  the  patrons  as 
the  clerks  of  a  bank;  blackboards,  on  which 
appear  the  names  of  the  horses,  jockeys, 
weight  carried,  odds,  and  pedigrees,  decorate 
the  walls,  everything  being  conducted  with 
the  same  business  decorum  and  excitement 
attending  the  stock  operations  of  the  New 
York  "  curb."  The  telegraph  ticks  off  the 
condition  of  the  weather,  the  arrival  of  the 
horses  at  the  post,  the  start,  their  position  at 
the  quarter,  the  half,  the  three-quarters,  in 
the  stretch,  and  under  the  wire,  as  a  well- 
trained  voice  in  the  language  of  the  turf  calls 
ofl'  the  results.  Here  one  may  play  the  races 
of  any  "  meet  "  in  the  United  States,  lack- 
ing only  in  the  excitement  of  seeing  the 
horses  dashing  for  the  winning  wire. 

159 


Exploits    and    Adventures  of  a 

In  the  old  "  French  quarter  "  a  few  blocks 
from  Royal  Street,  along  whose  time-worn 
thoroughfare  the  past  generations  of 
"  Nawrleans'  "  most  exclusive  Creole  society 
basked  in  the  sunshine  of  their  graceful  gen- 
tility, we  saw  some  quaint  sights  amidst 
the  chattering  jargon  of  its  people,  princi- 
pally among  these  being  a  quadroon  ball,  at 
which  Creoles  predominated,  though  almost 
indistinguishable  from  their  quadroon  sis- 
ters, whose  beauty  is  their  stock  in  trade, 
and  whose  mellow-toned  voices  drop  the 
"  r  "  in  that  quaint  characteristic  style  of 
the  Southern  people.  The  luxuriousness  of 
their  costumes,  pomp  of  procession,  har- 
mony of  music,  and  grace  of  attitudes,  all 
united  in  furnishing  a  scene  of  festive 
splendor. 

In  close  proximity  to  Jackson  Square, 
near  the  haunts  of  the  "  Vendetta  "  beau- 
tifully illustrated  in  the  play  of  "  Romeo 
and  Juliet,"  we  visited  a  Creole  resort,  the 
interior  of  which  resembled  somewhat  the 
subterrane  of  "  Little  Hungary,"  the 
famous  Bohemian  hostelry  of  Houston 
Street,   on   New  York's  east  side.     Here, 

160 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


seated  on  a  wine-cask,  a  fiddler  l)()wed  a 
"  viola,"  as  the  Creoles,  in  their  primitive 
originality,  and  with  all  the  inimitable  grace 
of  Loie  Fuller  in  the  "  fire-dance,"  per- 
formed the  "  Farandole  "  and  the  "  La 
Bonrree,"  their  beautiful  bare  arms  in  orna- 
mental bracelets,  shading  the  contortions  of 
their  movements,  rising  and  falling  in  ges- 
ticulating harmony  to  the  rhythm  of  the 
music,  as  the  nymphs  of  an  unexplored 
grotto.  Nearby  we  were  shown  the  old 
slave-market  and  block  from  which  the 
auctioneer  bartered  his  human  wares  to  the 
highest  bidder,  their  lives  invariably  to 
eventuate  in  the  drudgery  of  the  cotton 
fields. 

Voudooism,  which  included  all  the  intri- 
cacies of  the  black-art  in  prognosticating 
future  events,  flourished  uninterrupted  for 
years  in  New  Orleans,  until  finally  eradi- 
cated by  the  hands  of  authority.  This 
superstitious  form  of  worship  was  practised 
principally  by  the  negroes,  wlio  carried  its 
inheritance  with  the  first  trading  vessel  from 
the  shores  of  vVfriea  to  the  United  States. 
We  were  told  that  the  negroes  would  indulge 

11  161 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 

in  the  voudoo  dances  in  uncontrollable 
frenzy,  until,  overcome  from  exhaustion, 
they  would  sink  to  the  ground. 

Stories  are  told  of  the  handsome  fortune- 
telling  quadroon  jNIadame  La  Bouchere, 
who  held  her  court  near  the  Bayou  Saint 
John,  and  in  whose  sumptuous  boudoir  the 
patrons  of  her  art,  consisting  not  only  of 
the  bourgeoisie,  but  the  Creole  aristocracy, 
paid  visits  incognito  to  suffer  the  enchant- 
ments of  the  "  goddess  "  of  this  shrine  of 
sorcery.  A  landau  driven  to  the  door  of  this 
cypress-sheltered  dwelling,  there  hastily 
alighted  therefrom  a  veiled  lady,  who,  care- 
lessly brushing  by  the  magnolias,  vanished 
from  view.  In  this  green-curtained  domicile 
the  intrigues  of  forbidden  love,  deceptions, 
betrayals,  and  future  certainties,  would  all 
be  revealed  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  votary 
of  this  dark-eyed  enchantress,  without  the 
evil  eyes  of  the  gossip-mongers  to  feast  upon 
and  scatter  broadcast.  INIadame  La  Bou- 
chere's  soft  voice  and  alluring  smiles  have 
vanished  with  the  strokes  of  time;  in  the 
slumberous  shade  of  the  willow  she  rests  in  a 
tomb  of  the  old  ]Metaire  cemetery,  her  soul 

162 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

havirifr  passed  to  the  realm  beyond  this  life. 

The  eenieteries  of  New  Orleans  have  a 
particular  charm,  the  bodies  being  buried 
above-ground.  In  handsome  memorial  to 
the  Confederate  soldiers,  there  have  been 
erected  gigantic  mausoleums,  shafts,  and 
columns,  monumentally  inscribed  to  the 
memory  of  Louisiana's  departed  heroes. 

Mardi  Gras  week  was  ideal  in  every 
respect,  all  the  personages  of  the  characters 
of  comedy  blended  in  their  primitive  origi- 
nality; "Columbine"  flirted  with  "Harle- 
quin," while  "  Ajax  "  defied  the  lightning; 
"  Vulcan  "  shaped  harpoons  for  "  Neptune," 
and  "  FalstafF "  drank  to  the  health  of 
"  Bacchus."  ^Mountebanks,  clowns,  and 
buffoons  all  joined  in  the  revelry  of  mirth. 
The  street  pageant  was  a  magnificent  spec- 
tacle; floats  garlanded  with  flowers  repre- 
senting every  State  in  the  Union,  trades  and 
})rofessions,  were  led  by  Rex,  the  king  of 
the  carnival,  surmounting  the  "  globe,"  and 
the  Queen,  the  most  beautiful  Creole  lady  in 
New  Orleans,  riding  in  a  chariot  drawn  by 
sixteen  cream-colored  horses.  The  array  of 
the  Crescent  City  Jockey  Club  evoked  tre- 

163 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 


mendous  applause,  all  the  famous  jockeys 
of  the  track  on  favorite  mounts  partici- 
pating; "  Louisiana  Tigers,"  and  the 
"  Texas  Rangers,"  sailors  from  the  United 
States  cruiser  New  Orleans,  and  bands  of 
music  from  all  over  the  State,  joined  in  com- 
pleting this  gigantic  saturnalia,  which  had, 
for  its  gorgeous  setting,  the  Creole  "  bal- 
masque,"  where  New  Orleans'  most  exclu- 
sive society,  costumed  in  Parisian  elegance, 
was  seen  at  its  best. 

The  entire  week  was  one  round  of  jolli- 
fication, at  the  close  of  which  my  friends 
Gautrell  and  Clark  left  for  their  homes  in 
Georgia.  I  remained  in  New  Orleans  for 
four  months,  when,  cases  of  "  yellow-fever  " 
having  been  reported,  I  concluded  to  seek  a 
more  congenial  clime.  Boarding  the 
Knickerbocker,  of  the  Cromwell  Line,  I 
made  a  most  delightful  cruise  through  the 
gulf  and  along  the  coast  to  the  city  of  New 
York. 

Three  years  having  elapsed  since  my 
departure  from  the  little  railway  station  in 
the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains  of  Pennsylvania, 

164 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


lor  Xew  Urleiins,  the  vicissitudes  of  destiny 
found  nie  enjoying  the  bahny  zephyrs  and 
ni()onli<^ht  eveiiinos  of  the  tropics.  My 
career  in  the  navy  had  taken  nie  into  every 
})ort  of  importance  on  the  ^Vsiatic  station, 
and  my  ship,  the  Xcic  York,  liad  recently 
slipped  into  the  harbor  of  ^lanila,  and  lay 
anchored  ofF  the  break-water.  Having  gone 
ashore  this  particular  afternoon  for  the  pur- 
pose of  attending  the  races  at  Pasay,  I  had 
engaged  a  "  victoria  "  and  with  some  friends 
attended  the  scenes  at  the  track,  called  at 
the  "  Hefting  House  "  overlooking  Manila 
Bay,  had  dined  in  the  old  walled  city,  and 
driven  to  the  "  Lopez  "  road-house  at  Caloo- 
can.  The  sun  had  set  back  of  the  hills  of 
Olongapo,  ere  I  discharged  the  cochero  on 
the  Plaza  de  Goiti  and  entered  the  Hotel 
Metropole.  "  Hello,  boys,"  said  old  Mau- 
lini,  the  proprietor;  "  1  am  glad  to  see  you, 
you're  just  in  time  to  sample  some  fresh  ice- 
cold  hoff-brau;  it  just  arrived  to-day  on  the 
Kroupriuce  from  Ciermany."  Drawing  tlic 
rustic  hardwood  chairs  around  tlie  scpiare 
tables,  Ave  sat  in  the  delightful  breeze  of 
the  eleci:ric  fans  as  large  fantastic  steins  of 
cool  hoff-brau  were  served. 


IGc 


Exploits   and   Adventures    of  a 

Through  the  short  swinging  screen  doors 
of  the  cafe  could  be  seen  the  cosmopolitan 
procession  wending  its  way  on  business  and 
pleasure;  army  and  naval  officers  in  "vic- 
torias," Red-Cross  nurses  natilly  attired  in 
pure  white  lawn,  friars  in  black  habit  and 
broad-brimmed  hats,  mestizos  of  Chinese, 
Spanish,  and  French  extraction.  East  In- 
dian, Malay,  and  Japanese  merchants,  and 
American  soldiers,  all  stalking  along  the 
plaza. 

"  Tell  us  a  good  Dutch  story,  Maulini," 
asked  one  of  the  boys,  as  another  put  in, 
"Ah,  Maulini  ain't  Dutch;  he's  a  French 
carpet-bagger."  As  Maulini  was  about  to 
take  up  cudgels  in  his  own  defence,  there 
entered  the  cafe  a  bunch  of  cavalrymen, 
among  whom  I  instantly  recognized  my  old 
friend  Loomis  the  cowboy.  "  Great 
heavens!  "  I  said,  "  is  this  Loomis?  "  "  Well, 
for  the  love  of  the  powers  that  be,  Adams, 
is  it  possible  this  is  you  ?  "  "  Yep,"  I  replied, 
"  this  is  the  fellow  you  taught  how  to  throw 
a  lariat."  "  Where  have  you  been  the  last 
three  years?  "  he  asked;  "  the  last  I  heard  of 
you  was  through  Clark  and  Gautrell;  they 

166 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


called  to  see  me  at  Fort  :McPherson,  and 
said  they  had  left  you  in  good  company  in 
New  Orleans;  never  hearing  from  you,  I 
had  concluded  you  had  cashed  in.  Come  on, 
fellows,  I  want  you  to  meet  a  friend." 
Drawing  their  chairs  around  our  table,  it 
was  an  "  O-be-joyful "  gathering  that 
swapped  stories  as  the  steins  of  hoff-brau 
were  replenished.  Loomis  told  the  story  of 
our  meeting  in  Washington  and  the  subse- 
quent journey  to  Atlanta;  of  how  the  Third 
Cavalry  had  been  ordered  to  the  front  in 
the  Boxer  campaign,  where  they  had  seen 
hard  service,  at  the  close  of  which  they  were 
ordered  to  the  province  of  Ilocas  Xorte,  in 
northern  Luzon,  where  the  duty  was  also 
very  strenuous.  Handing  me  his  discharge, 
I  read: 

"  Army  of  the  United  States. 
"  To  All  niwm  It   May   Concern: 

"  Know  ye  that  Harry  K.  Loomis,  First  Sergeant 
of  Troop  '  M;  Third  United  States  Cavalry,  who  was 
enlisted  at  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania,  on  the  1st  day 
of  February,  1899,  to  serve  three  years,  is  hereby 
honorably  discharged  from  the  Army  of  the  United 
States  by  reason  of  expiration  of  enlistment.  Said 
Harry   K.   Loomis  was  born  in  tin-  city  of  St.   Louis, 

107 


Exploits   of  a   Soldier 


Mo.,  and  when  enlisted  was  22%  years  of  age,  by 
occupation  a  cowboy,  had  blue  eyes,  dark  brown  hair, 
ruddy  complexion,  5  feet  1 1  inches  in  height. 

"  Given  under  my  hand  at  Division  Headquarters, 
Army  of  the  Philippines,  Manila,  P.  I.,  this  31st 
day  of  January,  1902. 

"  Colonel  DoDD, 
"  Commanding  Third  Cavalry. 

"  Character  excellent. 

"  No  objection  to  his  re-enlistment  known  to  exist." 

On  the  back  of  this  discharge,  in  red  ink, 
several  lines  told  of  the  meritorious  conduct 
of  this  soldier,  his  unflinching  bravery  in  the 
face  of  the  enemy  in  action,  his  promotion 
for  bravery  during  the  Chinese  campaign, 
and  a  recommendation  for  a  "  certificate  of 
merit."  Some  time  was  spent  in  the  ex- 
change of  experiences,  and  it  goes  without 
saying  that  this  event  was  appropriately 
celebrated,  ending  a  very  unique  coincidence. 
Loomis,  on  the  arrival  of  his  transport, 
returned  to  the  United  States,  and  at  pres- 
ent, besides  being  a  successful  ranchman  in 
Oklahoma,  is  an  intrepid  and  fearless  deputy 
United  States  marshal. 


IX. 

Life  Amon^   Hostile  Moros   in  the 
Jungle  of  Mindanao 

A  Trip  to  the  Sulu  Archipelago — New  Year's  Eve  on 
Board  the  Zafiro — A  Royal  Bit  of  a  Time  in  the 
Cabin  of  McDonald — Blowing  the  Siren — New 
Year's  Dinner  at  1.00  A.M. — Isabella  de  Ba.silan — 
Prang  Prang — ^Dancing  Girls  of  the  Nippa  Villages 
— Roasted  Grasshoppers  —  Outpost  Duty  —  Nearly 
Converted  to  the  Darwinian  Theory — Experience 
with  a  Boa  Constrictor  while  Hunting  Wild-Boar — 
Rescued  from  Hostile  Moros — Relief  of  the  Outpost. 

Two  men  were  caught  in  a  More  trap,  and  the  Datto's 

giuis  sang  near, 
And  one  wore  an  officer's  shoulder-strap,  the  other  a 

private's  gear; 
One  was  a  black  of  the  Twenty-fourth,  and  one  was 

a  Southern  man. 
And  both  were  caught  in  a  dark  defile  by  the  line  of 

tlu-  Moro  elan. 

Oh,  wonder  it  is,  and  pity   it  is,  that  they  send  the 

scouts  alone 
To  die  in  the  silent  jungle  i)aths  with  never  a  word  or 

groan ; 

169 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 


Wonder  it  is,  and  pity  it  is,  but  the  two  stood  back  to 

back, 
And  never  a  word  between  them  passed  as  they  waited 

the  first  attack. 

What  prayers  they  said  they  said  them  low,  and  to 

their  beating  hearts 
That  thumped  so  loud  and  out  of  tune;  and  now  the 

battle  starts. 
A  ring  of  flame  about  them  ran ;  a  tongue  of  fire  shot 

through ; 
Then   as  machines   their  muscles   moved   and   aimed 

their  rifles  true. 

The  bullets  whined,  the  wounded  shrieked,  the  rifle 

bores  grew  hot; 
But  still  the  two  stood  back  to  back,  and  answered 

shot  for  shot. 
And  now  the   Moro  fire   dies   down,  and  now  there 

comes  a  hush; 
And  white  and  black,  with  bayonets  fixed,  await  the 

bolo  rush. 

They  heard  the  Moro  chief  call  out,  "  Oh,  black  man, 

hark  to  me ! 
You  give  to  us  the  Christian  dog  and  you  shall  go  out 

free. 
Heed  you  the  call  of  color  and  blood — what  need  we 

longer  fight.'' 
In  color  and  blood  you're  brother  to  me.     Oh,  black 

man,  give  the  white." 

170 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 


Now,   one   was   a   wliite  of   the   Southern   breed,   and 

cheap  he  held  the  black. 
And   little   lie'd   thought,  as   the  two  had   fought,  of 

the  man  behind  his  back; 
He  loved  to  live  as  the  white  man  lives,  but  the  Datto's 

words  rang  true; 
And  he  had  no  doubt,  as  the  chief  called  out,  what 

the  black  behind  would  do. 

Two  men  they  stood  them  back  to  back,  and  never  a 

word  they  said; 
But,  face  to  face  with  an  easy  death,  what  thoughts 

were  in  each  head ! 
"You  go,"  the  white  man  spoke  at  last;  "for  you 

owe  naught  to  me ; 
You  go ;  for  I  can  die  alone,  that  you  may  go  out  free ; 

"  You  go ;  it  seems  your  time  has  come  to  draw  the 

color  line; 
You  and  your  breed  owe  naught  to  me,  nor  certainly 

to  mine. 
I'll  go  to   death  as  my   fathers  went  " — between  his 

cold  set  lips — 
"My  fathers  who  used  to  use  your  kind  for  trade — 

and  poker-chips." 

One  was  a  black  of  the  Twenty-fourth,  and  his  face 

was  washed  with  fear. 
And  his  breath  came  quick,  and  his  bowels  were  sick, 

as  he  thought  of  the  knife-blades  near. 

171 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of  a 


Then  steady  his  hand  swung  to  his  belt^  and  back  to 

the  bolt  again. 
And  he  loaded  and  fired,  as  a  well-drilled  man,  and 

counted  his  dead  to  ten. 

And,   "  Man,"   he  said,   "  in  ole  Kaintuck  a  mammy 

she  prays  foh  me; 
An'  Ah  laks  to  lib  lak  yo'  laks  to  lib,  but  ouah  end  it 

am  plain  to  see. 
Ouah  colah  an'   blood  it  ain't  de  same,  but  we  sets 

to  de  same  old  boahd, 
An'  if  we  diffah  in  skin  an'  blood,  w'y,  we  pass  dat 

up  to  de  Lawd. 

"  Ouah  colah  an'  blood  it  ain't  de  same,  but  de  flag 

dat  covahs  us  bofe — 
It  nevah  has  changed  on  de  colah  line,  an'  dey  didn't 

colah  ouah  oafe; 
Yo'  go  yo'  route  to  de  gates  o'  Gawd  an'  I  shell  trabel 

mine — 
An'  we  shell  see,  when  we  reach  His  knee,  how  He's 

drawin  '  de  colah  line. 

"  Doan'  fink  Ah'm  fightin'  foh  de  lub  o*  yo*  or  de 

breed  that  yo'  laks  to  brag — 
Ah'm  fightin'  foh  mammy  in  ole  Kaintuck,  an'  lub  o' 

mah  kentry's  flag; 
Yo'   watch   dem   niggahs   along   yo'   front,    an'   Ah'll 

attend  to  mine, 
An'  we'll  go  up  to  de  Gates  o'  Gawd  to  settle  de 

colah  line." 

172 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


Two  nun  tluy  stood  tlu-iii  back  to  back,  and  tlic  whitt; 

man  called  to  the  chief: 
"  He's   answered   the  call   of  the   color   line,   and   his 

answer  will  bring  you  grief. 
We  don't  declare  as  brothers-in-blood,  or  the  burden 

of  friendship  drag, 
But  \\c  do  unite  on  a  color  line,  and  our  color's  our 

country's  flag.  " 

Two  men  lay  dead  in  the  jungle  path,  and  their  faces 

stared  at  the  sky; 
And  out  in  the  bush  on  each  man's   front  the   Moros 

were  piled  waist  high. 
And  when  the  warriors  they  went  in  to  mutilate  the 

dead. 
They  found  them  lying  back  to  back,  but  white  and 

black  were  red ! 

"  How  strange  it  is,"  the  chief  he  cried,  "  tliese  men 

should  together  go; 
They  did  not  love  each  other's  kind — in   blood  they 

differed  so. 
For  one  was  black   and  one   was   white,  and  yet   they 

chose   to   die 
Because  they  served  a  single  flag;  in  honor  tliey  shall 

lie. 

"  \\niat  gods  they  worshipped  I  know  not — what  gods 

I  do  not  car( — 
They    fought   me   well,   and    for   their   flag,   and   they 

shall  have  a  prayer. 

17.1 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 


For  be  he  white,  or  be  he  black,  his  flag  be  what  it 

may — 
All  honor  to  him  who  dies  for  that — my  men,  kneel 

down  and  pray." 

Two  mounds  they  stand  in  a  j  ungle  path ;  they  buried 

them  back  to  back; 
And  the  wondering  Moros  tell  the  tale  of  the  white 

man  and  the  black. 
Oh,  the  warlike  Moros  pass  that  way  to  kneel  in  silent 

prayer. 
And  ask  their  gods  for  the  spirit  of  the  men  they 

buried  there! 

The  Island  of  Mindanao,  which  lies  about 
six  hundred  miles  south  of  Manila,  border- 
ing on  the  Sulu  Archipelago,  was  highly 
esteemed  by  marines  in  1903  as  an  ideal 
place  to  soldier,  notwithstanding  the  fact 
that  the  natives  were  extremely  hostile,  and 
it  was  of  common  occurrence  to  hear  of  a 
sentry  being  treacherously  boloed  or  speared 
while  walking  his  post  in  the  jungle. 

Having  yearned  for  active  service  for 
several  weeks  while  stationed  at  Fort  San 
Philippi,  Cavite,  the  spell  of  anxiety  was 
broken  one  day  when  orders  were  received 
detailing  three  marines  to  proceed  by  the 

174 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


lirst  available  transportation  to  Prang 
Prang,  ^Mindanao,  to  replace  those  who  had 
suffered  the  fate  of  many  other  soldiers  and 
marines  at  the  hands  of  the  barbarous 
natives.  Having  made  application  for  this 
post  in  ^lindanao,  I  received  orders  to  report 
on  board  the  Zafiro,  one  of  Admiral  Dewey's 
old  colliers  at  the  battle  of  Manila  Bay. 

On  reporting  to  the  executive  officer  of 
the  vessel,  I  was  assigned  to  quarters,  and, 
after  unbuckling  my  accoutrements  and 
placing  them  safely  away,  I  met  Corporal 
Bates  and  Drummer  Vogt,  from  another 
company,  who  were  also  detailed  on  a 
southern  trip, — Bates  to  Isabella  de  Basilan, 
a  post  on  the  Island  of  Basilan,  and  Vogt 
to  the  post  where  I  was  bound  for. 

It  was  Xew  Year's  eve,  December  31, 
1902,  and,  as  the  ship  was  under  orders  to 
sail  at  9  p.m.,  we  decided  to  hurry  ashore, 
purchase  a  basket  of  edibles,  drinkables, 
cigars,  and  playing  cards,  that  we  might  see 
the  old  year  out  and  the  new  year  in,  in  true 
military  fashion.  Jumping  into  a  launch  we 
were  taken  ashore,  and,  after  laying  in  a 
supply,  hastened  back  to  the  ship. 

176 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

Having  returned  on  board  this  historic 
old  collier,  which  had  been  converted  into  a 
supply-ship  manned  by  a  Chinese  crew,  we 
rejDorted  to  the  "  skipper  "  who  was  respon- 
sible for  our  safe  delivery  at  the  destinations 
designated  in  our  orders. 

The  chief  engineer,  McDonald,  a  typical 
Scotch-Highlander,  whose  birthplace  was  in 
Ayr,  Scotland,  but  who  had  lived  most  of  his 
life  in  Australia,  was  glad  to  have  company 
this  New  Year's  eve  and  greeted  us  with 
that  fervor  so  characteristic  of  his  race.  We 
were  introduced  to  First  INIate  JMeigs  and 
Quartermaster  Nolan.  Meigs  had  held  a 
lieutenant's  commission  in  the  Brazilian 
navy  during  the  revolution,  while  Nolan  had 
served  under  General  Kitchener  in  the 
Soudan. 

The  Chinese  crew  of  the  Zafiro  were  thor- 
ough sailors  to  a  man,  from  the  "  chink  " 
who  handled  the  wheel  down  to  the  fellows 
who  passed  the  coal. 

At  two  bells  (9  o'clock)  anchors  were 
weighed,  and  the  splash  of  the  propellers 
made  it  evident  that  we  were  under  way. 
Chinese  could  be  seen  at  their  various  posts 

176 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

of  duty,  in  that  sciiii-iiiiconscious  custom  so 
perceptible  in  this  class  of  people,  wliether 
steering  a  craft  or  ironing  the  bosom  of  a 
shirt. 

As  the  ship  passed  through  tlic  ]Mona 
Chica,  the  gateway  between  the  China  Sea 
and  JNIanila  Bay,  we  could  see,  of!*  to  star- 
board, the  lights  on  Corregidor  Island,  which 
faded  from  view  as  our  vessel  steamed  into 
the  darkness  of  the  China  Sea. 

As  the  ship  cruised  along  the  coast  of 
Luzon,  Chinese  off  duty  could  be  seen  en- 
gaged in  playing  Fan  Tan,  some  pleating 
their  cues,  while  others  stored  away  potions 
of  chop-suey. 

In  the  cabin  of  ^IcDonald,  Vogt  picked  a 
banjo,  while  Bates  and  myself  sang  songs 
such  as,  "  There's  a  red  light  on  the  track 
for  boozer  Brown  "  and  "  Oh,  Mona,  you 
shall  be  free."  Stories  of  adventure  were 
told  by  Meigs  and  Xolan,  and  Chief 
^McDonald  recited  poem  after  poem  of  the 
great  poet  Burns. 

On  the  dawn  of  the  new  year  1903,  the 
siren  was  blown,  and  the  bell  struck  19  and 
3,  after  which  the  entire  contingent  sur- 

12  "7 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


rounded  a  table  laden  with  turkey  and  all 
the  accessories  of  a  new  j^ear's  dinner,  in- 
cluding Scotch  high-balls  and  Manila  cigars, 
and  a  more  enjoj^able  new  year's  dinner  or 
breakfast  I  never  expect  to  experience. 
The  songs  varied  from  the  "  Bonnie,  Bonnie 
Banks  of  Loch  Lomond  "  to  "  The  Wearing 
of  the  Green,"  interspersed  with  stories  of 
love,  war,  and  adventure,  and  I  doubt  if  we 
marines  could  have  been  entertained  with 
more  satisfaction  in  the  most  exclusive  suite 
of  the  LiUsitania  than  we  were  this  night  in 
the  cabin  of  McDonald  on  the  Zafiro. 

After  cruising  for  two  days  along  the 
verdant  shore  of  Luzon,  we  entered  the 
picturesque  harbor  of  Isabella  de  Basilan, 
a  Filipino  village  situated  along  the  water's 
edge  surrounded  by  banana  and  cocoanut 
groves.  Quaint-looking  fishermen,  adepts 
at  throwing  the  seine,  were  scattered  over 
the  bay,  while  a  motley  crowd  of  native 
women  were  engaged  in  pounding  calico 
with  smooth  stones,  their  mode  of  cleansing. 

Barracks  on  the  edge  of  the  town  con- 
tained a  company  of  marines;  among  these 
I  found  a  number  of  whom  I  knew.    After 


178 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

unloading  provisions  and  other  stores,  and 
leaving  Corporal  l^atcs  behind,  our  ship 
steamed  on  lier  voyage  to  Polloc,  the  name 
of  the  village  where  tlie  garrison  was  loeated. 
Having  a  cargo  of  freight  on  board  for 
Zamboanga,  the  capital  of  ^Mindanao,  we 
touched  this  harbor  just  long  enough  to  dis- 
pose of  it,  and  continued  our  cruise,  steam- 
ing south  along  a  mountainous  range 
studded  with  extinct  volcanoes,  and  ere  long 
had  moored  to  the  wharf  at  Polloc  in  the 
bay  of  Prang  Prang,  Here  we  were  met  by 
seventy  marines,  all  anxious  to  hear  the  news 
from  the  outside  world,  as  mail  was  received 
here  l)ut  twice  a  month. 

Although  isolated,  Polloc  was  an  ideal 
post,  a  health-giving  resort  with  excellent 
water  and  trees  teeming  with  tropical  fruit. 
Game,  such  as  wild  boar,  deer,  and  wild 
cattle,  roamed  at  will  tin-oughout  the  island. 
The  ]Moros  of  this  island  kept  "  Uncle 
Sam's  "  soldiers  guessing  for  several  years, 
until  finally  su])dued  through  the  efforts  of 
General  ^Vood.  T'nlikc  the  Filipino,  the 
Moro  is  a  l)rave  warrior,  preferring  the  open 
to  jungle  fighting.  The  Moros  handle  the 
179 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

spear,  barong,  and  kreese  with  great  skill, 
and,  when  not  engaged  in  a  game  of  monte, 
may  be  seen  practising  with  these  weapons 
of  warfare. 

The  nights  in  this  island  of  the  Celebes 
Sea    commence    immediately    at    sundown, 
there  being  no  t^^^light ;  a  calm  serenity  per- 
vades the  barrios  after  the  shades  of  night 
have  fallen,  when  natives  gather  under  the 
drooping    palms    surrounding    the    nippa- 
shacks,  around  which  the  graceful  coils  of 
smoke  ascend  from  a  smudge  kept  burning 
to  check  the  advance  of  the  ever-annoying 
mosquito.     Here,  to  the  accompaniment  of 
harp   and  guitar,  the   Filipino  inhabitants 
(for  there  are  many  of  these  in  Mindanao) 
sing  quaint  songs  in  the  Tagalog  or  Visayan 
tongue.    Dancing  girls,  bearing  such  names 
as  Oleano,  Agripina,  Donaziti,  and  Juana, 
perform  the  "  Fandango  "  wath  bewitching 
contortions,  gracefully  tapping  a  tambou- 
rine and  snapping  the  castanets  to  the  music 
of  the  "  La  Paloma."    The  village  is  dimly 
lighted  by  cocoanut  oil,  kerosene  being  a 
rarity  in  this  section  of  the  world.    At  such 
places  we  marines  off  duty  gathered  nightly, 

180 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

where,  over  a  bottle  of  dulce  tinto  and  box 
of  alhainbras,  we  spun  yarns  of  our  adven- 
tures, occasionally  joining  the  senoritas  in 
their  late  carousals,  to  the  delight  of  the 
friendly  Moros  who  inhabited  the  village. 

The  Moros  had  become  quite  hostile  in 
the  Lake  region,  and  a  battle  had  been 
fought  near  what  is  now  Camp  Vicars  on 
Lake  Lanao,  with  dire  results  to  the  enemy; 
this  had  exercised  every  native  warrior  on 
the  island  to  such  an  extent  that  it  became 
necessary  for  the  marines  to  re-establish  an 
outpost  overlooking  the  bay  and  the  Amadao 
Valley.  Having  volunteered  for  this  par- 
ticular duty,  we  were  ordered  (one  sergeant, 
two  corporals,  and  ten  privates)  to  pack 
ever>i;hing  of  necessity  pertaining  to  field- 
service  on  ponies  and  proceed  to  our  destina- 
tion. 

With  a  string  of  pack  ponies,  two  Colt 
automatic  and  oug  machine  gun,  we  set  out 
for  the  site  of  the  outpost  amid  deafening 
cheers  from  the  garrison.  We  reached  the 
knoll  of  a  hill,  a  sj)lendid  point  of  vantage, 
seven  miles  distant  from  the  town,  from 
which  we  could  view  the  entire  surrounding 

181 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

country;  here  stood  an  old  Spanish  block- 
house, from  which  we  flew  "  Old  Glory," 
and,  after  policing  the  ground,  pitched 
tents,  mounted  the  guns,  posted  a  sentry, 
and  were  ready  for  action.  The  following 
day  we  were  connected  by  telephone  with 
the  garrison  and  had  cut  the  underbrush 
away  from  the  knoll  of  the  hill  on  which  we 
w^ere  stationed. 

The  only  break  in  the  monotony  of  several 
months  of  this  life  would  occur  when  a  detail, 
sent  into  the  garrison  for  rations,  would 
return,  bringing  us  mail  from  the  outside 
world  and  news  from  the  company  in 
quarters. 

Game  abounded  plentifully  in  this  section 
of  the  island,  and  at  night  the  weird  grunt 
of  a  wild  boar  and  the  bark  of  a  deer  could 
be  heard  in  the  near-by  jungle.  Large 
vampires,  darting  overhead  like  phantom 
aeroplanes,  were  nimierous  here  as  in  other 
islands  of  the  Philippines. 

JMoros  approaching  the  outpost  were 
compelled  to  leave  their  side-arms  in  the 
jungle.  Quite  a  number  desired  to  be 
friendly  with  the  Americans;  these   were 

182 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


traders.  They  woukl  bring  in  chickens, 
eggs,  fruit,  wild-fowl,  venison,  fish,  roasted 
grasshoppers,  and  tuber.  Eggs  containing 
chickens,  as  in  other  parts  of  ^Mindanao  and 
northern  Luzon,  were  more  valuable  than 
fresh  eggs.  Tuber  is  a  native  beverage 
taken  from  the  cocoanut  tree,  and  has  all 
the  exhilarating  effects  of  "  Dry  Mono- 
pole." 

Thousands  of  monkeys  infested  the  jungle 
surrounding  tlie  camp.  On  one  occasion 
while  returning  from  a  boar  hunt,  some- 
thing happened  which  nearly  converted  me 
to  the  Darwinian  theory.  Near  the  edge  of 
a  coffee  plantation  I  spied  a  number  of 
monkeys  in  a  mango  tree;  raising  my  rifle 
I  fired,  dropping  a  monkey.  The  animal, 
merely  wounded,  came  running  toward  me, 
bleeding  from  the  chest  and  uttering  a  piti- 
ful cry,  then,  leaning  against  a  tree,  placed 
its  hands  over  the  wound  and,  with  a  most 
pitiful  and  appealing  expression,  gazed  up 
at  me  in  tearful  agony,  as  nmch  as  to  say, 
"What  the  devil  did  I  do  to  you?"  I 
ended  its  suffering,  and  resolved  never  to 
shoot  another  monkev. 


183 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

While  hunting  wild-boar  in  company 
with  Weismantle,  a  member  of  the  detach- 
ment, we  had  come  across  a  "  wallow  "  in 
a  ravine  near  the  Rio  Grande  River.  Weis- 
mantle, being  an  experienced  huntsman, 
could  tell  that  the  "  wallow  "  had  recently 
been  frequented  by  hogs ;  he  said,  "  You 
take  a  position  about  forty  feet  on  one  side 
of  the  ravine,  and  I'll  be  on  the  opposite 
side;  sit  perfectly  quiet,  don't  even  smoke, 
as  the  boar  is  sure  to  return."  Following 
his  directions  to  the  letter,  I  sought  the  shade 
of  a  large  grape-fruit  tree,  where,  seated 
on  a  log  with  a  bramble-bush  blind,  I 
awaited  the  arrival  of  the  game. 

In  deep  meditation  I  had  sat  with  my 
rifle  cocked  for  perhaps  forty  minutes, 
eagerly  awaiting  the  shadow  of  a  pig,  and 
was  beginning  to  get  restless,  when  hark! 
a  dull  thud  on  the  ground  attracted  my 
attention  to  a  guava  tree  near  by,  where  I 
saw,  hanging  from  and  partly  wrapped 
around  a  low  limb,  an  immense  boa  con- 
strictor. For  a  moment  I  was  hypnotized; 
the  snake's  head  was  hidden  by  the  under- 
brush, and  in  fact  it  was  impossible  to  see 

184 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


either  end  of  the  monster;  I  eould  merely 
see  the  coils  wrapped  around  the  limb  and 
hanging  from  the  tree.  To  say  that  the  sight 
of  a  boa  constrictor  excited  horror  in  my 
mind  is  putting  it  mildly,  for,  being  unable 
to  see  its  head,  it  would  have  been  folly  to 
shoot  with  a  rifle;  furthermore,  I  imagined 
1  was  in  a  den  of  these  powerful  life-crush- 
ers; every  moment  I  expected  to  feel  myself 
enwrapped  in  the  monster's  coils,  and  for  this 
emergency  I  had  drawn  my  knife.  Another 
twist  of  this  snake,  and  I  was  hitting  the 
high  places  only;  I  leaped  through  the  tall 
grass  like  an  Igorrote  head-hunter,  and 
now,  to  add  to  my  mental  diseomiiture,  I 
ran  on  to  a  wild-boar,  which  gave  a  most 
unearthly  squeal;  this,  followed  by  the 
report  of  Weismantle's  rifle,  made  it  seem 
as  though  all  the  demons  of  hell  had  been 
turned  loose.  After  regaining  my  com- 
posure, I  tracked  the  boar  by  drops  of  blood 
for  several  hundred  yards,  where  we  found 
it  in  time  to  bleed  it  properly.  When  T  told 
the  marine  the  experience  1  liad  had,  he 
wanted  to  return,  but  I  refused  to  point  in 
the   direction,   so   the   trip   was   postponed. 

185 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

After  tying  the  feet  of  our  game  together, 
we  cut  a  long  bamboo  pole,  on  which  we 
packed  it  into  the  outpost,  where  it  was 
roasted  on  a  spit. 

Chess,  pinocle,  whist,  and  poker  were 
popular  games  in  the  camp,  as  they  are  in 
all  quarters  of  the  army  and  navy,  and  in 
this  way  many  pleasant  hours  were  spent 
when  off  duty. 

The  migration  of  locusts  on  the  Island  of 
Mindanao  is  a  novel  sight;  approaching  in 
the  distance,  they  appear  like  a  large  black 
cloud,  the  forerunner  of  a  tornado;  millions 
upon  millions  of  these  jumping  insects, 
totally  eclipsing  the  sun,  continue  on  their 
flight  for  hours,  leaving  leafless  trees  and 
devastated  fields  in  the  train  of  their  route. 

A  great  character  at  the  outpost  was  Cor- 
poral Jim  Iddles,  a  Scotchman,  and  a  great 
friend  of  mine.  Jim  had  a  keen  appetite 
for  tuber,  and,  growing  weary  of  the  simple 
life,  approached  me  one  morning  with  the 
suggestion  that  we  take  a  hike  to  a  near-by 
"  barrio  "  in  quest  of  some  native  sangaree. 
The  nearest  barrio  was  Mongahon,  seven 
miles  distant,  so,  slipping  on  our  belts,  with 

186 


Soldier     Ashore     and     At'loal 

six-shooters  and  rifles,  we  liit  the  trail 
over  the  iiiouiitains,  informing  Sergeant 
^IcKenzie,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  out- 
post, tlint  we  were  going  a  sliort  distance  in 
the  jungle  to  shoot  a  deer. 

On  our  arrival  at  ^longahon,  we  found 
the  village  deserted,  with  no  natives  to  climb 
the  cocoanut  trees,  and,  as  tuber  is  tapped 
at  the  top  of  the  tree,  we  were  out  of  luck, 
as  an  American  cannot  climb  these  trees 
owing  to  the  millions  of  red  ants  that  infest 
them.  The  nearest  village  from  this  point 
was  Amadao,  in  the  Amadao  Valley,  on  the 
Rio  Grande  River  eight  miles  distant.  At 
this  juncture  it  was  decided  to  toss  a  coin, 
head  for  Amadao,  tail  for  the  outpost.  As 
the  coin  was  tossed  on  the  "  heads  1  win, 
tails  you  lose  "  system,  it  was  not  long  before 
we  were  beating  the  trail,  with  the  valley  of 
the  Rio  Cirande  for  our  destination.  The 
tribes  in  this  section  of  the  island  had  been 
very  hostile,  and  a  battle  had  been  waged 
near  Amadao  some  months  previous;  but, 
as  we  had  been  dealing  with  traders  from 
this  valley,  we  decided  to  keep  on  the  alert 
until  we  found  these,  whom  we  knew  would 
represent  us  as  being  amigo  Americanos. 

187 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of   a 

As  we  drew  near  the  "  barrio,"  we  noticed 
Moros  here  artd^tliere  withdrawing  from  the 
fields  toward  their  casas  or  shacks,  evidently 
apprehensive  of  impending  danger,  as  a 
JMoro,  on  seeing  two  or  three  soldiers  within 
their  territory,  infers  at  once  that  they  are 
an  advance  guard  of  a  larger  body.  Many 
Moros,  in  addition  to  their  own  lingo,  speak 
a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  Visayan,  so  that 
with  this  help  we  were  able  to  trace  our 
traders.  Resting  at  a  shack  in  a  large  cocoa- 
nut  grove  while  an  apparently  friendly 
native  went  in  search  for  a  trader,  we  were 
soon  greeted  by  old  "  ISIontone,"  a  native 
warrior,  but  friendly  to  the  Americans. 
JMontone  had  a  complexion  as  black  as  the 
ace  of  spades,  and  was  reputed  to  have  been 
a  formidable  pirate  in  his  palmy  days, 
operating  along  the  coast  of  the  Celebes 
Sea.  He  bore  evidence  of  this  reputation  by 
the  valuable  ornaments  he  possessed;  on  his 
wrist  he  wore  a  jade  bracelet,  above  each 
elbow  a  bracelet  of  solid  gold,  while  two 
massive  rings  hung  from  his  ears ;  his  kreese 
was  priceless,  containing  pearls  and  other 
precious  gems,  the  blade  being  inlaid  with 

188 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


gold,  while  surmounting  the  hilt  was  a  solid 
gold  helmet.  Besides,  he  was  tattooed  from 
his  shoulders  to  his  wrists;  truly  he  was 
*'  the  king  of  the  cocoanut  grove,"  and,  while 
not  a  "  Datto,"  had  all  the  authority  and 
appearance  of  one. 

Montone  at  once  sent  a  native  for  a  stick 
of  tuber  (a  bamboo  cylinder  holding  three 
quarts).  Tuber  is  a  cool  tropical  beverage, 
the  sap  of  the  cocoanut  tree,  which  can  only 
be  drawn  by  tapping  the  top  of  the  tree.  It 
has  a  sharp  sweet  taste  and,  like  champagne, 
its  effects  are  lasting.  After  finishing  the 
first  order  we  sent  for  more.  I  l)elieve  we 
were  on  the  fourth  order  when  the  Scotch- 
man endeavored  to  entertain  an  imaginary 
audience,  and  the  last  I  remember  of  him 
before  a  profound  slumber  claimed  me,  he 
■was  standing  on  a  stone  pile  singing, 
"  Green  grow  the  rushes  O,  Green  grow  the 
rushes  O,"  et  cetera,  to  an  imaginary  audi- 
ence of  about  twenty  thousand,  it  seemed  to 
me. 

Dawn  was  breaking  when  I  awoke,  I 
knew  not  where;  my  first  thought  was  of  my 
six-shooter;  it  was  gone;  my  rifle,  belt,  and 

189 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

ammunition  were  gone,  and  several  moments 
were  spent  in  conjecture  as  to  the  reality  of 
m}^  personal  existence.  I  tried  to  think, 
but  all  seemed  blank;  I  had  reached  the 
abysm  of  oblivion,  when  I  recalled  that  last 
song  of  my  partner  Jim,  the  tuber,  and  alas ! 
the  sequence  mysteriously  puzzled  my  brain. 
Had  I  been  sleeping  like  Rip  Van  Winkle 
in  the  Catskills?  or  was  it  the  hallucination 
of  a  dream,  that  would  vanish  with  the 
awakening?  I  was  soaking  wet.  Quietly 
crawling  to  an  aperture  through  which  the 
rays  of  a  moon-beam  shone,  I  discovered 
that  I  was  in  a  nippa-shack  on  the  brink  of 
a  ravine.  Suddenly  I  heard  deep  breathing. 
Quietly  tiptoeing  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound,  I  saw  in  another  compartment  sev- 
eral natives  scattered  about  in  peaceful 
slumber.  Satisfying  myself  that  they  were 
Filipinos  and  not  Moros,  I  awakened  one  of 
the  men,  who  arose,  exclaiming,  "  Ah!  amigo 
Americano,  mucho  bueno  grande  hombre." 
Fortunately,  this  Filipino  was  a  friendly 
native  who  had  formerly  been  employed  by 
the  provost  in  the  town  of  PoUoc. 

He  informed  me  that  he  was  en  route 

190 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


from  Cota  Bato  (a  small  shipping  port), 
where  he  had  taken  a  shipment  of  hemp,  and, 
passing  through  the  village  of  Ainadao,  had 
seen  me  in  the  company  of  hostile  ]\Ioros, 
and  had  invited  me  to  ride  on  the  hack  of 
liis  caribou  to  his  casa.  In  fording  the  Rio 
Grande  River,  the  animal  had  stumbled, 
throwing  us  into  the  stream,  and  this 
accounted  for  the  wet  condition  I  was  in. 

On  making  inquiries  about  my  rifle,  the 
native  went  to  the  adjoining  room,  returning 
with  my  six-shooter,  rifle,  and  belt.  Both 
weapons  I  had  made  useless  by  taking  the 
drum  and  pin  from  the  revolver  and  the 
bolt  from  the  rifle,  a  custom  a  soldier  is 
taught  early  in  his  military  career,  for  cases 
of  emergency. 

When  I  inquired  about  my  partner  Jim, 
the  Filipino  said  that  I  was  tlie  only  white 
man  he  had  seen  in  the  valley,  but  that,  at 
about  midnight,  he  had  heard  rifle  volleys  in 
various  directions.  Plere  I  concluded  that 
the  garrison  had  been  turned  out  in  (juest  of 
the  two  missing  marines,  and  the  shots  had 
been  fired  with  the  hope  of  getting  an 
answer. 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

By  this  time  the  other  members  of  the 
household  had  awakened,  and,  after  being 
served  with  hot  black  coffee,  I  was  directed 
to  follow  the  trail  along  the  Rio  Grande 
River,  which  led  through  tall  grass  and 
bramble. 

As  I  hiked  along  the  lonely  trail,  my 
thoughts  were  centred  on  my  friend  Jim 
Iddles.  I  could  imagine  his  lifeless  form 
lying  cold  in  abhorrent  demise,  and  con- 
jectured how  if  alive  we  were  to  escape  the 
punishment  of  a  general  court-martial. 
After  many  miles  of  tiresome  travel,  I  was 
hailed  from  a  branch  trail  by  a  friendly 
Moro,  a  dwarf  of  the  mountains,  whose 
abode  was  in  the  village  of  Panay  and  who 
frequently  visited  the  outpost,  selling  pro- 
duce and  game.  This  diminutive  spirit  of 
the  forest,  who  reminded  me  of  the  elves  in 
Irving's  Rip  Van  Winkle,  aimed  straight 
for  me,  cutting  his  way  through  the  jungle 
with  his  kreese.  He  greeted  me  with  the 
customary  "  Amigo  Americano,"  and  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  been  sent  out  in 
search  of  me  by  the  commanding  officer  of 
marines  at  PoUoc.  Leading  the  way,  I  fol- 
ios 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

lowed  him  in  single  file  along  the  trail 
through  banana  groves  and  jungle  where 
2)arrots  and  monkeys  were  numerous.  After 
a  weary  hike,  I  sj^ied  "  Old  Glory  "  waving 
in  the  breeze  from  the  old  Spanish  block- 
house at  the  outpost;  as  we  drew  near,  I 
could  see  the  soldiers  gazing  intently  in  my 
direction;  the  sentry  had  spied  us  and 
aroused  the  camj).  After  a  cheer  and  a 
hearty  handshake  from  the  boys,  my  mental 
agitation  was  relieved  when  informed  that 
Iddles  had  been  found  in  Amadao  about 
midnight,  by  a  detachment  that  had  been 
sent  out  from  the  garrison. 

Iddles  was  found  asleep  in  a  ^loro  shack, 
in  front  of  which  patrolled  a  Moro  sentry 
carrying  Jim's  rifle,  belt,  and  six-shooter. 

After  relating  part  of  my  adventure  to 
the  boys,  tlie  garrison  was  informed  of  my 
safety,  and  in  a  few  hours  the  commandant 
and  captain  of  marines  were  on  the  scene  to 
ascertain  the  facts  connected  with  our 
absence.  ^Slean while  both  Jim  and  myself, 
looking  the  worse  for  wear,  })oliccd  ourselves 
to  a  high  degree  of  soldierly  immaculateness, 
and  after  a  confab  it  was  decided  that  I 

13  193 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of  a 

should  act  as  spokesman  on  the  arrival  of 
the  officers. 

The  story  we  framed  was  this:  that,  hav- 
ing followed  the  bark  of  a  deer  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  in  the  jungle,  we  lost  our 
bearings  ("  lost  our  bearings  "  was  good!), 
and,  differing  in  opinion  as  to  the  direction 
of  the  camp,  we  were  each  directed  by  the 
influence  of  our  respective  opinions,  result- 
ing in  both  getting  lost.  The  circumstances 
in  connection  with  the  finding  of  James  had 
been  withheld  from  the  officers;  while  my 
experience  had  been  only  partly  related  to 
the  men,  they  having  heard  that  I  departed 
from  the  valley  mounted  on  a  caribou  driven 
by  a  Filipino. 

When  confronted  by  the  officers,  I  told 
the  tale  of  our  adventure:  of  our  having 
followed  the  bark  of  a  deer  leading  us  into 
a  labyrinth  of  perplexity  (as  dears  some- 
times do!),  of  our  difference  in  opinion,  the 
friendly  attitude  of  the  Moros,  and  the 
kindness  of  a  Filipino  in  conducting  me  to 
his  casa,  where  I  was  provided  with  quarters 
for  the  night.  Iddles  corroborated  my  story 
as  far  as  it  related  to  himself,  and  dwelt  par- 

194 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


ticularly  on  tlic  friendliness  of  the  Moros  of 
the  Anmdao  A'alley.  After  asking  various 
questions  in  cross  examination,  the  captain 
said, "  Well,  men,  I  am  glad  to  see  you  alive ; 
your  adventure  has  heen  of  some  profit." 
Then,  turning  to  Sergeant  ^NIcKenzie,  he 
said,  "  If  two  of  our  men  can  go  into  the 
jungle  as  these  men  did,  mingling  in  friend- 
ship with  the  natives  without  being  molested, 
I  can  see  no  necessity  of  continuing  the  out- 
post; stand  relieved,  break  camp,  and  return 
to  the  garrison." 

There  was  no  court-martial,  scarcely  a 
reprimand,  and  the  soldiers  of  the  outpost 
tendered  Jim  and  me  a  vote  of  thanks  for 
the  hand  we  played  in  getting  them  back  to 
the  comforts  of  the  barracks. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  a  few  months 
later,  on  the  renewal  of  hostilities  in  the 
Lake  region,  a  band  of  ]\Ioros  of  the 
Amadao  Valley,  under  the  leadership  of  a 
noted  "  Datto,"  offered  their  services  to  the 
commanding  officer  at  Polloc.  Like  the 
American  Indians,  the  Moros  are  divided 
into  tribes,  among  whom  for  ages  past  there 
has  been  strife  or  contention  for  superiority. 

195 


Exploits   of  a   Soldier 


Our  two  years  having  expired  in  foreign 
service,  the  detachment  was  ordered  to 
Olongapo  to  join  the  homeward-bound  bat- 
talion. Shortly  after  this  we  bade  adieu  to 
Moroland  and  s^\aing  out  of  the  bay  of 
Prang  Prang  en  route  to  the  Island  of 
Luzon. 


X. 

A  Midnight  Phantasy  in  California 

The  \'ision — The  Capture — "  Frisco  "  and  Its  Favorite 

Haunts. 

Having  had  considerable  experience  with 
copper  thieves  in  the  navy  yards  of  Wash- 
ington, 1).  C,  New  York,  and  Cavite, 
Phihpjjine  Islands,  I  was  not  overly  sur- 
prised when,  about  midniglit  late  in  the 
aiitunm  of  1003,  while  serving  in  the  capacity 
of  patrol  at  the  ^lare  Island  Xavy  Yard, 
California,  as  I  chanced  along  the  water- 
front, to  see  the  shadow  of  an  apparent  river 
pirate,  presumably  collecting  copper  bars 
from  a  large  pile  of  tliis  valuable  metal.  The 
man  evidently,  it  appeared  to  me,  had  a  boat 
in  which  he  was  storing  the  bars  to  be  rowed 
across  the  channel  to  Vale  jo,  the  old  Span- 
ish gambling  town  and  gold-miners'  retreat 
of  the  old  days. 

Without  tile  least  exaggeration,  I  must 
acknowledge    to    having    been    during    my 

107 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 


career  in  some  very  uncomfortable  predica- 
ments while  grovelling  through  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  life's  various  phases,  and  a  strong 
resolution,  which  I  have  always  held  sacred, 
has  been,  never  to  take  a  life  without  giving 
the  person  a  chance  for  his  own;  therefore, 
self-defence  or  being  in  action  with  the 
enemy  could  be  mj^  only  palliation.  This 
night,  however,  presented  cause  for  excep- 
tion to  this  rule.  The  corner  of  a  large 
steam-engineering  building  hid  from  view 
the  man  whose  shadow  played  in  grotesque 
evolutions  on  the  pier,  and  it  was  impossible 
to  see  him  without  uncovering  myself  to  his 
gaze,  but  there  lurked  the  shadow  of  every 
move  cast  vividly  before  my  keen-set  eyes. 

As  I  quietly  knelt  in  seclusion  surrounded 
by  the  densest  gloom,  meditating  as  to  how 
I  might  take  the  object  alive,  positively 
realizing  that  he  was  well  armed,  from  my 
previous  experience  with  river  thieves,  I 
saw  the  shadow  portray  a  man  drawing  a 
gun  and  examining  it  closely,  the  shadow 
indicating  that  he  was  either  trying  the 
trigger  or  testing  the  T  block  of  an  auto- 
matic pistol. 

198 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 

It  dawned  on  me  that  my  duty  bade  me  to 
halt  this  man,  and,  it'  in  any  way  he 
attempted  to  evade  me,  to  kill  him. 

1  had  the  narrow  neck  of  the  channel 
covered,  and  it  was  my  intention,  if  he 
attempted  to  shove  off  in  a  boat  with  any 
copper,  to  halt  him,  and,  if  he  ignored  my 
command,  to  fire.  However,  not  seeing  the 
shadow  disappear  for  even  an  instant 
aroused  my  suspicion,  as  to  load  the  copper 
in  the  boat  in  any  shape  or  manner  it  would 
have  been  necessary  to  pass  on  the  opposite 
side  of  an  old  obsolete  sentry-box,  thereby 
obliterating  even  the  semblance  of  a  shadow. 

I  was  cognizant  of  the  fact  that  had  I 
aroused  the  guard  they  would  send  out  the 
steam-launch  to  cover  the  exit,  and,  if  the 
man  attempted  to  escape,  fire  on  him,  which 
I  wished  to  prevent. 

What  in  the  devil  can  that  fellow  be 
doing?  I  conjectured  in  silence,  as  the  mys- 
tical representation  of  his  every  move,  like 
a  phantom  depicting  anything  and  every- 
thing, was  cast  along  the  ground  and  pier 
as  if  superinduced  by  some  supernatural 
agency.     Merely  prowling  for  the  choicest 

199 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

bars,  I  soliloquized.  Hark!  "  Number  one, 
one  o'clock  and  all  is  well!  "  The  stillness 
of  the  night  had  been  broken  by  the  sentries 
calling  off  the  hour.  "  Number  two,  one 
o'clock  and  all  is  well ! "  "  Number  three, 
one  o'clock  and  all  is  well!  "  "  Number  four, 
one  o'clock  and  all  is  well !  "  "  All  is  well !  " 
repeated  sentry  number  one  at  the  guard- 
house as  he  continued  on  his  beat.  "  Third 
relief,  fall  in!  Get  a  move  on,  boys!  The 
officer  of  the  day  is  apt  to  be  lurking 
around !  "  commanded  the  corporal  of  the 
guard,  as  the  men  promptly  fell  into  their 
proper  places  for  posting  formation. 
"Count  oiF!"  commanded  the  non-com- 
missioned officer,  each  man  counting  the 
number  of  his  post.  "Port  arms!  Open 
chambers!  Close  chambers!  Order  arms! 
Nmnber  one!"  As  number  one  was  being 
posted,  the  sergeant  of  the  guard  inter- 
posed: "  Corporal,  I  want  those  sentries  to 
turn  over  not  only  their  special  orders  but 
their  general  orders  as  well;  see  that  they 
know  them  thoroughly:  have  them  tell  you 
what  is  to  be  done  in  case  of  fire,  and  be  sure 
that  they  know  where  the   fire-plugs  are 

200 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

located.  Butt  Plate  Willie  is  officer  of  the 
day  and  is  raising  hell  around  here  because 
the  sentries  don't  know  their  orders;  now, 
they  better  get  wise  to  the  military  or  off 
come  their  belts."  "Pshaw!  Butt  Plate 
Willie  don't  know  his  own  orders,"  ejacu- 
lated the  corporal  as  he  gave  the  command, 
"  Shoulder  arms!  Right  face!  Forward 
niarcli!  " 

The  shadow  had  taken  another  position 
and  seemed  to  be  in  kneeling  posture  at  the 
rifle-range,  setting  the  wind-gauge  of  his 
rifle  for  the  prone  figure  in  the  skirmish  run. 

The  corporal  was  marching  the  old  relief 
back  to  the  guard-house,  as  sentry  number 
one  called  out,  "  Number  one,  half  past  one 
and  all  is  well!"  followed  in  succession  by 
each  sentry  calling  oft'  the  hour.  Each  man 
of  the  relief,  on  falling  out,  kicked  like  a 
mule  for  being  detained  overtime  on  post. 

It  was  half  past  one  and  surely  time  for 
me  to  make  the  rounds  through  my  various 
posts  of  duty. 

At  this  instant  tlie  shadow  disappeared, 
followed  by  the  dull  sound  of  dislodged 
copper.     The  moon  had  taken   a   position 

201 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

behind  a  dark  cloud,  which  gave  me  an 
opportunity  to  skirt  the  end  of  the  pier  to 
another  secluded  spot  where  I  could  await 
its  reappearance,  when  I  could  positively 
determine  whether  this  shadow  was  an  appa- 
rition, a  reality,  or  merely  a  transcript  in 
the  memory  formed  by  the  imagination  of 
phantasy. 

As  the  lunar  glow  beamed  through  the 
clouds,  the  outlines  of  a  soldier  appeared  to 
my  view,  merely  the  profile,  with  his  face 
resting  in  the  palms  of  his  hands.  I  momen- 
tarily seized  this  opportunity  and  pounced 
upon  my  prey,  and,  for  the  "  love  of  Mike," 
who  was  it  but "  Stormy  Bill,"  a  " character" 
at  the  post.  "Ha!  ha!  What  in  hell  are 
you  doing  here?  robbing  the  copper  pile, 
hey? "  I  exclaimed,  knowing  in  my  heart 
Bill  was  as  honest  as  the  night  was  long. 
Like  the  raven.  Bill  quoth,  "  Never  more." 
"  What  brought  you  here  at  this  hour  of  the 
night?  "  I  asked.  "  Bad  whiskey,"  sighed 
Bill,  his  light  of  enthusiasm  burning  dimly. 
"  I  hid  a  flask  here  yesterday  and  came  here 
to-night  to  look  for  it."  "  Yes,  and  keep 
me   prowling   around  all   night   expecting 

202 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


every  minute  to  be  shot  by  copper  thieves," 
I  interposed.  "  You're  a  fine  specimen  of 
a  marine!  What  do  you  think  this  navy 
yard  is,  a  picnic  ground^"  Continuing, 
*'  Now  you  draw  yourself  together  (^uick  or 
I'll  have  you  manacled  and  thrown  in  the 
brig."  "  Ah!  "  he  said,  "  cut  out  the  strong 
talk.  I  came  here  to  look  for  a  flask  of 
rye.  I  am  not  going  to  run  away  with  the 
copper  pile."  "  That  will  do  you,"  I  said. 
"  You  have  evidently  found  the  rye,  and  I 
want  you  to  blow  out  of  here."  "  Yes,"  said 
"Stormy,"  "I  have  found  it. — Eureka! 
Let's  go." 

I  felt  like  kicking  him  a  few  times,  then 
rubbing  him  with  liniment  and  kicking  him 
again,  merely  using  the  liniment  to  keep 
him  from  becoming  callous  lest  he  should 
fail  to  feel  the  kicks. 

He  became  garrulous,  and,  in  order  to 
get  him  to  the  barracks  without  falling  into 
the  hands  of  the  guard,  it  was  necessary  for 
me  to  walk  him  about  two  miles  to  reach  one- 
fourth  the  distance.  Having  j)iloted  him 
over  lawns  and  through  the  shade  of  the 
leafy  trees,  we  finally  reached  his  quarters, 

808 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

where  his  aiFable  disposition  required  him  to 
apologize  for  my  trouble,  and,  thanking  me, 
he  hied  off  to  his  cot.  "  Stormy,"  in  the 
parlance  of  the  soldier,  was  "  good  people," 
his  greatest  fault  was  in  being  on  too  good 
terms  with  old  "  Cyrus  Nobl^."  A  few 
weeks  after  this  event  I  left  "  Stormy " 
behind,  having  been  ordered  to  another  post. 

En  route  from  the  Philippines  with  the 
Twenty-ninth  Infantry  in  1909,  as  the 
transport  pulled  up  to  the  pier  at  Honolulu 
a  voice  from  the  dock  called  out  my  name. 
Leaning  over  the  tafFrail,  whom  should  I 
see  but  "  Stormy  Bill!  "  He  had  been  made 
a  non-commissioned  officer  in  a  battery  of 
artillery  and  was  stationed  on  the  Island  of 
Oahu. 

Mare  Island  covers  considerable  space  in 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  lying  about  six- 
teen miles  northwest  of  the  "  Golden  Gate  " 
overlooking  the  bay  and  Pacific  Ocean.  It 
is  the  naval  base  of  California. 

While  stationed  at  this  post  I  frequently 
ran  over  to  "  Frisco,"  either  by  steamboat 
or  rail,  where  with  a  good  convivival  bunch 
I  joined  in  the  festivities  at  such  temples  of 

204 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

mirth  as  the  famous  "  Poodle  Dog,"  from 
whose  showy  tiers  or  projecting  balconies 
the  pageants  and  processions  of  ]Market 
Street  could  be  seen  passing  by,  as  the 
guests,  environed  by  the  sweet  notes  of  a 
Hungarian  rhapsody,  were  the  embodiment 
of  gayety  and  content.  Lombardi's,  famous 
for  Italian  "  table  d'hote  "  dinners  and  par- 
ticularly noted  for  their  mode  of  preparing 
macaroni;  Svenguenetti's,  whose  reputation 
in  crustacean  specialties,  particularly  in  the 
culinary  of  lobsters  and  shrimps,  was  known 
to  the  Bohemians  far  and  wide.  Zinkand's, 
and  scores  of  others,  where  the  music  thrilled 
one's  very  soul,  and  where  the  nymphs  of  the 
"  Golden  West  "  could  tell  you  how  to  braid 
a  lariat  and  a  quirt,  break  a  pony,  and  twirl 
the  rope,  and,  although  not  adepts  at  the 
game  of  golf,  could  tell  some  funny  stories 
of  picking  hops  under  Western  skies. 
Kearney  Street,  which  afforded  the  halls  for 
the  graceful  glide,  wherein  could  be  found 
the  same  aspect  of  the  West  of  frontier  days. 
Prepossessing  maidens  in  scalloped  buck- 
skin skirts,  high-topped  shoes,  sombreros 
beautifully  banded  with  Indian  beads,  and 

205 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 


corsages  cut  very  decolletee,  danced  with 
gallant  young  fellows  whose  costumes 
savored  of  the  Mexican  variety  and  whose 
bright  and  breezy  effulgence  was  conducive 
to  the  merriment  of  the  night.  The 
Orpheum,  Oberon,  Log  Cabin,  Cascade,  and 
the  Grotto,  all  flourished  in  prosperous 
placidity,  through  a  long  chain  of  patronage 
of  the  world's  bohemians  since  the  days  of 
the  path-finding  "  Forty-niners." 

Occasionally  we  tripped  to  "  Mechanic's 
Pavilion,"  to  witness  the  knights  of  the  fistic 
art  battle  for  supremacy,  and  note  the 
radiant  smiles  of  the  shining  lights  of  the 
arena  as  a  "  knockout  "  was  perfected.  But 
alas!  the  old  haunts  of  Market  and  Ellis 
Streets  and  the  beautiful  edifices  of  the  old- 
time  "  Frisco  " — where  are  they?  The  echo 
answers,  "  Where? "  Vanished  with  the 
stroke  of  nature's  wand,  that  calamitous 
earthquake  and  subsequent  fire  of  1906,  in 
whose  train  the  mournful  ravages  of  devas- 
tation grinned  in  fiendish  glee. 

Though  similar  to  the  overwhelming 
destruction  of  the  ancient  city  of  Cam- 
pania, San  Francisco's  ruin  was  not  irreme- 

206 


Soldier     Ashore     and      Afloat 

diablc,  for,  like  the  surprisingly  sudden 
demolition,  there  burst  into  view,  like  spring 
flowers  following  a  thunder-storm,  the  mag- 
nificent new  city  of  the  "  Golden  Gate," 
blazing  in  the  zenith  of  prosperity.  It  may 
be  necessary  to  make  inquiries  or  perhaps 
consult  a  city  directory,  but  you  will  find  the 
same  old  joyful  haunts  flourishing  as  of 
yore. 

]\Iy  tour  of  duty  at  Mare  Island  was 
brought  to  a  close  on  being  ordered  to  New 
York  to  join  the  mobilization  of  the  St. 
Louis  battalion. 


XI. 

Semper  Fidelis — the  Guard  of 
Honor 


U.  S.  Marines  at  the  St.  Louis  Exposition — Veterans  of 
Various  Expeditions — Mobilization  at  Washington, 
D.  C. — Arrival  in  St.  Louis — An  Ideal  Military 
Camp — Exhibition  Drills,  Marines  in  Bohemia — 
The  Spanish  Senoritas  of  Old  Madrid — Coleens 
and  Harpists  of  the  Emerald  Isle — Cheyenne  Joe's 
Rocky  Mt.  Inn — Palm  Garden  Dances  in  the  "  Wee 
Sma  "  Hours — Chaperoning  a  Theatrical  Pari;y — A 
Dinner  at  the  Tyrolean  Alps — A  Famous  "  Broad- 
way "  Actress  Meets  Geronimo  the  Apache  Chief — 
Marines  Battle  with  Filipino  Scouts — Arrival  of 
Mounted  Police,  Farewell  to  the  "Fair" — Oh, 
Maryland,  My  Maryland. 

The  battalion  of  marines  that  composed 
the  Guard  of  Honor  at  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase Exposition  in  St.  Louis  in  1904  was 
the  finest  representation  of  Uncle  Sam's 
sea  soldiers  that  has  ever  been  mobilized. 
In  order  to  meet  the  requirements  in  organ- 
izing this  battalion,  it  was  necessary  to  select 

208 


Exploits   of  a    Soldier 

men  from  the  Atlantic,  Kuropean,  and 
Asiatic  fleets,  besides  the  various  navy  yards 
of  the  United  States.  The  requirements  of 
the  navy  department  in  selecting  material 
for  this  detachment  were:  that  each  man 
must  he  not  under  five  feet  and  eight  inches 
m  height  and  of  military  bearing,  a  veteran 
of  foreign  service,  possessing  an  excellent 
character  and  a  clean  military  record.  Sev- 
eral months  were  spent  in  securing  the  neces- 
sary quota  to  complete  these  essential  con- 
ditions, which,  when  perfected,  represented 
not  only  the  flower  of  the  United  States 
^larine  Corps,  but  a  worthy  rival  for  honors 
with  the  best  military  force  ever  organized. 
Washington,  D.  C,  was  the  site  of  our 
mobilization.  Every  member  of  the  bat- 
talion was  exempt  from  duty,  save  that 
which  tended  to  the  arduous  exhibit  of  mili- 
tary evolutions,  calisthenics,  and  bayonet 
exercise.  The  drill  in  these  was  strenuous; 
five  hours  each  day  under  the  tutorage  of  a 
skilful  drill-master  soon  brought  the  bat- 
talion to  a  state  of  perfection.  The  famous 
United  States  Marine  }5and  furnished  the 
music  during  these  drills,  and  the  pleasure 

14  200 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

derived  from  this  alone  offset  the  tedium  of 
manoeuvre. 

Each  man  was  perfectly  fitted  by  a  tailor 
for  the  eight  uniforms  which  he  was  required 
to  have ;  these  were  of  blue,  khaki,  and  white 
duck.  Every  article  of  his  wearing  apparel 
had  to  be  an  exact  fit,  from  shoes  to  cap. 
Every  article  of  equipment  and  all  accoutre- 
ments were  issued  brand  new.  Flags,  tents, 
ditty-boxes,  cots,  blankets,  mosquito-bars, 
rifles,  six-shooters,  bayonets,  belts,  canteens, 
haversacks,  toilet-sets  were  all  fresh  and  new. 

The  Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition, 
which  commemorated  the  centennial  of  the 
purchase  of  the  Louisiana  Territory  in 
1803,  opened  April  30,  1904,  and  closed 
December  1,  of  the  same  year. 

The  site  of  the  IMarine  Camp  was  near 
and  on  the  west  side  of  the  Palace  of  Liberal 
Arts,  lying  between  the  Liberal  Arts  build- 
ing and  the  Intramural  Railway,  near  the 
Government  building,  and  north  of  the 
Tyrolean  Alps,  lagoons,  and  cascades. 

May  20,  1904,  the  day  set  for  our  depart- 
ure from  Washington  to  St.  Louis,  was  an 
ideal   day  in   every  respect.     The   Marine 

210 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


Band  discoursed  iiispirinfi"  imisic,  and,  as  the 
battalion  of  two  hundred  marines,  under 
the  command  of  Major  (now  Colonel) 
Mahoney,  made  their  aj)pcarance  on  the 
parade-ground,  the  hand  took  a  position 
reaching  from  the  arcade  of  ^larine  Head- 
quarters to  the  street.  First  call  was 
sounded,  followed  by  assembly,  each  marine 
took  his  place  in  line,  the  roll  was  called,  a!i(l 
the  battalion  formed.  As  the  stentorian 
voice  of  the  i)attalion  commander  rang  out, 
"  Battalion,  attention  I  liight  forward,  fours 
right!  IMarch!"  the  ^Marine  Band  struck 
up,  "  Under  the  double  eagle,"  as  the  entire 
column  swung  into  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 
All  along  the  route  to  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  station,  from  sidewalks  and  win- 
dows, the  battalion  met  with  expressions  of 
popular  applause.  Boarding  two  sections 
of  Pullman  sleepers  with  baggage-  and  din- 
ing-cars attached,  each  man  adjusted  him- 
self conforma])ly  to  his  surroundings,  with 
tliat  decorum  horn  onl}'  of  military  experi- 
ence. The  signal  given,  llie  train  rolled  out 
of  the  station,  the  l)and  playing,  "  Meet  me 
in  St.  Louis,  Louis,  meet  me  at  the  Fair." 

211 


Exploits    and   Adventures  of  a 

The  men  who  comprised  this  "  Guard  of 
Honor"  were  tried  and  seasoned  veterans: 
some  had  been  with  Dewey  at  the  battle  of 
]Manila  Bay,  some  with  the  American  squad- 
ron at  Santiago,  while  others  had  taken  part 
in  the  Philippines  insurrection,  the  "  Boxer  " 
campaign  in  China,  the  campaign  against 
hostile  ^loros,  and  the  Samar  expedition. 
Several  had  been  awarded  certificates  of 
merit  for  valor  by  Congress,  while  at  least 
one  man — namely,  Sergeant  John  Quick, 
"  the  hero  of  Guantanamo  " — ^was  distin- 
guished as  possessing  that  most  coveted 
emblem  of  heroism,  "  the  Medal  of  Honor," 
which  can  be  gained  only  by  exceptional 
gallantry  in  action  in  the  presence  of  the 
enemy. 

To  these  soldiers  of  the  sea  this  trip  was 
of  considerable  moment  as  regards  the  nov- 
elty thereof.  Thousands  of  miles  had  been 
covered  by  land  and  sea  by  the  majority, 
who  had  touched  at  the  ports  of  every  coun- 
try on  the  face  of  the  globe,  many  of  whom 
having  served  in  the  City  of  Pekin,  China, 
as  members  of  the  Legation  Guard ;  so  that 
this  variation  from  the  irksome  duties  aboard 

212 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


a  man-of-war,  ur  the  hiirnin<jj  sun  of  the 
tropics,  to  tlie  more  traruiiiil  atmosphere  of 
a  model  camp  at  a  ''  world's  fair,"  w^as  more 
than  rejuvenating.  The  tii})  was  devoid  of 
the  usual  skylarking  attending  a  body  of  raw 
and  untried  recruits,  and  it  is  a  matter  of 
fact,  that,  a  few  days  after  the  arrival  at  the 
Exposition,  Major  ^Mahoney  received,  from 
the  management  of  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road, a  letter  commending  him  on  the  excel- 
lent deportment  of  his  command. 

xVrriving  in  St.  Louis  Sunday  morning, 
May  22,  we  immediately  alighted  from  the 
train,  the  battalion  was  formed,  and  marched 
to  the  "  Fair  "  grounds,  through  the  Olive 
Street  entrance,  to  the  site  of  our  rendez- 
vous; the  colors  were  hoisted  to  the  flag- 
pole, and  by  1*2  o'clock  noon  our  camp  had 
been  pitched,  each  A  wall  tent  towering  uni- 
forndy  over  the  chalk-marked  scpiare  on  the 
red  siiale,  and  witli  the  precision  of  the 
Barnuiii  and  Bailey  shows.  Each  tent  had 
a  well-fitting  floor,  and  between  each  row 
of  tents  stretclied  a  ])eautiful  lawn  of  grass, 
on  eitlier  side  of  which  was  a  board-walk. 
The  battalion  commander's  headquarters, 
213 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 


as  well  as  the  tents  of  the  other  officers,  faced 
the  head  of  the  company  streets,  and  were 
separated  by  a  unique  road,  over  which 
vehicles  were  debarred.  The  camp  was  illu- 
minated by  large  arc  lights.  In  the  rear  of 
the  last  row  of  tents  stood  the  sick  quarters, 
canteen,  guard-house,  barber-shop,  cobbler, 
tailor,  and  shower-baths. 

The  camp  was  typically  a  model  military 
village,  with  all  modern  conveniences,  even 
to  an  up-to-date  restaurant  which  had  been 
erected  purposely  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  battalion.  This  building  was  beautifully 
situated  in  a  shady  grove  opposite  the  Ken- 
tucky building.  In  India  the  British  are 
noted  for  their  model  camps  and  bungalow 
quarters ;  but  an  English  officer,  after  seeing 
the  marines  in  St.  Louis,  was  heard  to  re- 
mark, that  this  American  camp  beggared 
description. 

The  Plaza  Orleans  was  the  scene  of  daily 
exhibitions  given  by  the  West  Point  cadets, 
Philippine  scouts,  and  United  States 
marines.  Thousands  of  spectators  thronged 
the  roped  enclosure  daily,  and  the  applause 
from  these  was  deafening.    Strains  of  music 

214 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 

from  a  dozen  dift'erent  bands  filled  the  air, 
the  most  famous  of  these  being  the  United 
States  ^larine  Band,  Sousa's,  Gilmore's, 
Hawaiian,  ^Mexican,  Royal  Grenadierof  Lon- 
don, Philii)pines  Constabulary,  La  Kcpub- 
lie  of  France,  15and  De  Ivspanol,  Neapolitan 
of  Italy,  and  the  army  bands, — the  Second 
and  Twenty- fourth  Infantry,  the  latter 
colored.  Besides  these  there  were  scores  of 
others,  including  bagpipers  and  the  insular 
band  of  the  Tagalogs  with  bamboo  instru- 
ments. 

In  addition  to  the  exhibition  drills  and 
camp  exhibit  of  the  marines,  they  also  had 
charge  of  the  naval  exhibits  in  the  govern- 
ment building.  Each  man  had  to  be  thor- 
oughly familiar  with  the  mechanism  or  his- 
tory, as  the  case  might  be,  of  the  integral 
point  of  each  exhibit,  in  order  to  ex])lain  and 
answer  questions  intelligently.  The  camp 
was  garrisoned  by  a  detail  of  marines,  who 
patrolled  on  each  side  of  the  square,  from 
the  day  of  our  arrival  until  the  close  of  the 
"  Fair." 

This  style  of  soldiering  was  a  rare  treat 
to  the  boys;  they  were  given  free  admittance 

215 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

to  every  concession  on  the  grounds,  and  the 
six  months  spent  in  the  heart  of  this  stupen- 
dous show  of  the  earth  will  ever  remain  vivid 
in  the  memories  of  the  men  who  comprised 
this  battalion. 

Stretching  over  a  vast  area  of  Forest 
Park,  enclosed  by  a  high  board  fence,  stood 
the  magnificent  Palaces  of  Varied  Indus- 
tries, Liberal  Art,  Agriculture,  INIines  and 
Metallurgy,  Manufacture  and  Transporta- 
tion, Palaces  of  Machinery  and  Electricity, 
Festival  Hall,  and  the  Cascades,  the  Gov- 
ernmeilt  Building,  Tyrolean  Alps,  the 
Stadium,  Ferris  Wheel,  and  the  sunken 
garden ;  the  camps  of  the  West  Point  cadets, 
Artillery  and  Infantry;  Hospital,  Signal, 
and  Life-saving  Corps.  Museums  contain- 
ing relics  of  anthropology,  zoology,  geology, 
anthology,  and  numerous  other  scientific 
researches  were  everywhere  in  evidence.  In 
one  British  concession,  soldiers  of  the 
"  Household "  cavalry  of  London  stood 
watch  over  the  magnificent  "  Queen's  Jubi- 
lee presents  "  which  had  been  presented  to 
Queen  Victoria  by  the  nations  of  the  earth. 
Five  hundred  Indians,  representing  various 

216 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

tribes,  in  all  ilicir  habilinicnts  of  war,  here 
flourished  at  their  best,  the  most  proniineiit 
chiefs  among  these  being  Geronimo,  Iron 
Mountain,  and  White  Cloud.  Every  State 
in  the  Union  was  represented  with  an  appro- 
priate edifice,  that  of  the  State  of  Missouri 
being  the  most  imposing.  Statues  and 
images  from  the  chisels  of  the  world's  most 
famous  sculptors  adorned  a  section  in  the 
Palace  of  Varied  Industries,  while  the  art 
galleries  were  filled  with  the  rarest  paint- 
ings of  the  most  celebrated  artists  of  all 
times  and  all  nations. 

To  enumerate  even  the  most  important 
exhibits  of  this  prodigious  exposition  would 
require  volumes,  and,  for  the  benelit  of  those 
whose  duties  prevented  them  from  seeing 
the  "  Fair,"  I  wish  to  say  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  form  a  conception  of  the  progress 
this  world  attained  during  the  century  since 
the  purchase  of  the  Louisiana  Territory. 

At  night  the  electrical  display  was  a  daz- 
zling glitter  of  phosphorescence;  myriads  of 
incandescent  lights  of  variegated  colors 
were  strung  along  the  lagoons,  cascades,  and 
Pike,  these  combined  with  large  arc  lights 

217 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

completed  an  illumination  of  festive 
splendor. 

A  group  of  marines  could  be  found 
nightly  in  social  session  on  Napoleon  bridge, 
a  span  of  the  lagoons,  meditatively  absorb- 
ing the  sweet  strains  of  the  ever-entrancing 
Italian  Yama  Yama,  sung  by  Venetian 
"  gondoliers,"  as  they  gracefully  plied  par- 
ties in  gondolas  through  thread-like  canals 
fed  by  the  waters  of  the  cascades.  The  in- 
spiration animated  by  the  grandeur  of  the 
surroundings  on  these  occasions,  the  thrilling 
sweetness  of  the  singing,  to  the  mellow-toned 
accompaniment  of  mandolins  and  guitars, 
had  a  most  electrifying  effect.  Music, 
music,  music,  music,  everywhere;  sweet- 
hearts, music,  and  mirth,  that  was  the  slogan. 
"  Love  me  and  the  world  is  mine "  is 
hummed  in  chorus  by  this  happy-go-lucky 
bunch  of  jolly  tars,  whose  only  responsibili- 
ties are  confined  to  the  hours  of  love  and 
duty,  and  whose  motto  is,  "  Be  a  good  fellow 
here,  and  you'll  be  a  good  fellow  there." 

"  The  Pike,  the  Pike!  let's  shove  off  for 
the  Pike."  They  stop  a  few  moments  to 
hear  the  soft  tones  of  II  Trovatore  by  the 

218 


Soldier     Ashore     and    Afloat 


famous  Hawaiian  band,  and  exchange 
greetings  with  some  St.  Louis  friends,  who 
propose  a  mild  stimulant  for  their  infirmi- 
ties which  consist  chiefly  of  a  severe  thirst 
that  needs  quenching.  Downey's  cabaret  is 
sought,  where  in  a  cosey  corner  of  bohcmia 
the  corks  are  drawn  from  ice-cold  Ijottles  of 
"  blue-ribbon  "  as  they  sing  of  "  the  soft- 
flowing  dreamy  old  Rhine  "  and  "  Meet  me 
to-night  in  dreamland."  The  latest  stories 
are  told  and  toasts  are  drunk  to  the  health 
of  the  absent.  From  the  tinkling  glasses  of 
bohemia,  the  marines  meander  to  the  Pike. 
Ten  minutes'  walk  from  the  north  pole  to 
Ireland  through  a  labyrinth  of  gayety. 
Everybody  visited  the  Pike,  particularly  at 
night,  when  the  soft  pedal  was  put  on  con- 
ventionalities and  every  "  piker  "  became  a 
thoroughbred  bohemian,  and  then  some. 
Commencing  at  the  north  i)ole  you  would 
follow  in  rotation  on  either  side  of  this  ani- 
mated thoroughfare:  first  the  Galveston 
flood,  an  excellent  representation  of  th'^ 
devastation  of  tluit  Texan  city:  l^uttle 
Abbey,  with  its  relics  of  antiquity,  on  the 
right ;  cross  over,  and  you  see  Hobson  sink- 

219 


Exploits   and   Adventures    of  a 

ing  the  Merrimac,  also  the  battle  of  San- 
tiago. There  is  a  rush,  and  we  find  our- 
selves in  Turkey,  watching  the  slim  princess 
trying  to  beat  it  with  an  American  kodak 
fiend.  After  "  shooting  the  chutes  "  a  few 
times,  in  order  to  be  sure  of  not  missing  any- 
thing, you  stroll  to  a  palmy  dance-hall  and 
join  in  a  "  Frisco  dip  "  or  perhaps  a  "  St. 
Louis  rag,"  with  liquid  refreshments  during 
the  intervals. 

From  this  point  you  take  a  boat  for  the 
"  Garden  of  Eden  "  and  the  scenes  of  crea- 
tion; the  dark  recesses  of  this  cavernous 
route  were  the  cause  of  many  leap-year  pro- 
posals in  1904.  Leaving  Paradise  you  stop 
to  watch  a  fellow  picking  confetti  out  of  his 
sweetheart's  eyes;  he  is  laughing,  and  some 
one  throws  a  handful  of  confetti  into  his 
mouth;  he  swears  at  this,  but  he  is  only  jok- 
ing. A  barker  on  the  opposite  side  is  hold- 
ing a  crowd  with  his  spiel  on  "  Hereafter." 
You  enter  a  dark  subterranean  passage 
likened  unto  the  intricate  caves  in  the 
"  Chamber  of  Horrors  "  depicted  in  Dante's 
Inferno,  a  journey  along  the  river  Styx  on 
the  outskirts  of  hades,  and  you  are  trans- 

220 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

ported  to  Paradise  for  a  turn  along  the 
"  golden  strand."  Returning  to  earth,  the 
strains  of  music  from  a  Spanish  orchestra 
can  be  heard  in  Old  Madrid,  where  trouba- 
dours and  niatadores  exchange  stories  over  a 
bottle  of  madeira.  A  dark-eyed  senorita 
from  Cordova,  who  wears  her  clothes  well, 
sings  La  Paloma,  clicking  the  castanets  to 
the  accompaniment  of  an  orchestra  from 
Barcelona.  "Bravo!  bravo!"  yell  the 
marines,  as  she  joins  them  in  a  Pall  ^Nlall  and 
goblet  of  wine. 

All  aboard  for  St.  Petersburg  shouts  the 
conductor  of  the  Great  Siberian  Express, 
from  Vladivostok  to  St.  Petersburg  and 
return.  ''  Under  and  over  the  sea  "  pipes  a 
sailor;  "take  a  ride  in  a  submarine,  ten 
thousand  leagues  under  the  sea."  From  a 
balcony  over  the  entrance  to  the  Old  St. 
Louis  arena,  "  The  Cowboy's  Farewell  "  is 
being  played  by  a  genuine  cowboy  band. 
This  arena  is  the  Indian's  favorite  place  of 
amusement,  as  the  scenes  are  typical  of 
frontier  life.  Wading  ankle  deep  in  con- 
fetti, you  enter  into  the  enchantments  and 
desolations  of  Paris,  with  its  relics  of  the 

221 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

Inquisition,  Waterloo,  and  the  Bastille,  the 
bridge  of  the  Invalides,  Rue  de  Rivoli,  and 
Champs  Elysees,  here  represented  in  minia- 
ture, where  songs  were  sung  by  gay  Pari- 
sians. Further  on  are  the  Japanese  and 
Chinese  tea-gardens,  Cummings'  wild  west 
show,  Hoyle's  fire-fighters,  and  Hagen- 
bach's  celebrated  animal  show. 

Arabs  with  tomtoms  are  attracting  a 
stream  of  people  to  mysterious  Asia.  Here 
you  find  Hindu  jugglers,  magicians,  and 
snake-charmers.  Oriental  dancers  of  the 
hootche  kootche,  and  venders  of  wares  of  the 
"  Far  East,"  camels  and  donkeys  for  hire, 
elephants  with  gorgeous  canopies  in  which 
the  children  love  to  ride.  This  concession 
has  the  spicy  odor  and  Oriental  aspect  of  the 
Far  East. 

Blarney  Castle  and  the  Irish  village  are 
next.  "Ho  for  the  Irish  jaunting  car!" 
All  pile  in,  and  we're  off  for  the  Lakes  of 
Killarney,  climb  to  the  Castle  and  kiss  the 
blarney  stone.  A  Dublin  colleen  who  is 
vending  shillalahs,  canes,  and  other  orna- 
ments of  Irish  bog-oak,  sweetly  sings, 
"  Where  the  River  Shannon  flows,"  as  she 


Soldier     Asliore     and     Afloat 

})iiis  a  Ircsli  green  shamrock  on  cacli  iini- 
I'orni,  tlicn  remarks,  "11"  1  was  a  man,  I'd 
be  a  soldier  too."  The  cafe  has  a  seating 
capacity  of  nearly  one  thousand  people;  here 
the  tinkling  of  glasses  is  interspersed  with 
sweet  music  by  harpists  from  the  "  Emerald 
Isle."  You  order  an  Irish  high-ball,  and 
you  receive  a  creme  de  menthe  with  a  sham- 
rock in  it. 

The  Pike  was  the  favorite  promenade  of 
the  "  Fair,"  something  doing  every  minute. 
Here  millionaires  nudged  elbows  with 
paupers;  celebrities  of  distinguished  voca- 
tions with  the  butcher,  the  baker,  and  the 
candlestick-maker.  The  various  nations  of 
the  earth  here  commingled  in  harmony,  all 
possessed  with  the  same  feeling  of  curiosity 
and  intent  on  having  pleasure. 

After  doing  the  Pike,  the  Tyrolean  Alps 
was  a  favorite  resort  for  midnight  diners 
whose  mirth  and  good  fellowship  were  in 
keeping  witli  their  surroundings.  Delicious 
terrapin,  lobster,  and  rare-bits  were  special- 
ties in  this  extraordinary  cafe.  From  a  pass 
in  the  mountain  chain  of  the  Alps  came  the 
clear  yodel  of  a  quartette  of  Tyrolean  sing- 

223 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of   a 

ers,  whose  notes  reverberated  from  the  cliffs 
to  the  scenes  below. 

Swiss  maidens  from  Geneva  presided  over 
stalls  of  quaint  curios  from  Switzerland, 
beer-steins  and  long  tobacco-pipes  being  the 
most  favored  articles.  These  Swiss  girls 
were  great  favorites  of  the  marines;  they 
were  constant  visitors  at  the  camp  during 
the  entire  exposition,  scarcely  a  tent  was 
lacking  in  some  ornamentation  or  other  from 
the  booths  of  this  Alpine  exhibit,  while  each 
girl  wore  pinned  to  her  shirt-waist  an  orna- 
ment emblematic  of  the  marines,  consisting 
of  the  semisphere,  the  eagle,  and  the  anchor. 

Though  not  on  the  grounds,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  places  of  amusement,  and 
one  which  without  seeing  the  visitor's  trip 
to  the  "  Fair  "  was  incomplete,  was  "  Chey- 
enne Joe's  Rocky  Mountain  Inn."  This 
famous  or  infamous  resort,  as  you  will  have 
it,  had  a  seating  capacity  of  more  than  one 
thousand  people.  Tables  arranged  in 
squares  over  a  saw-dust  floor  were  attended 
by  waiters  in  cowboy  costume ;  in  the  centre 
of  this  large  pavilion  a  vaudeville  perform- 
ance entertained  its  racy  patronage;  music 

224 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 

was  continuous,  two  bands  being  used  for 
this  purpose ;  as  one  ceased  playing,  the  other 
coninienced  without  interval.  xV  trained 
donkey  bedecked  with  ribbons  ran  from 
table  to  table  nodding  to  the  guests.  About 
every  twenty  minutes,  Cheyenne  Joe 
mounted  on  a  pony  would  gallop  into  the 
scene  and  cry  out,  "  How  much  money  did 
we  take  in  to-day?  "  In  unison  the  cowboys 
would  yell,  "  Ten  thousand  dollars."  Joe 
would  shout,  "  Burn  half  of  it  up  and  shoot 
out  the  lights,"  whereupon  each  cowboy 
drew  his  gun  and  banged  away,  snuffing  out 
every  light  in  the  joint.  The  lights,  of 
course,  were  operated  mechanically;  dark- 
ness ensued  for  a  few  moments  only,  when 
the  light  would  be  restored.  The  placards 
alone  were  worth  a  visit  to  read;  but  the 
mirth  and  revelry  indulged  in  not  only  by 
soldiers,  civilians,  and  Indians,  but  hundreds 
of  the  fair  sex,  during  the  midnight  hours  in 
this  Rocky  Mountain  resort,  though  lacking 
in  splendor,  were  akin  to  the  revels  at  the 
feasts  of  the  bacchanalians. 

During  the  wee  sma'  hours  of  the  morning 
the  Palm  Garden,  a  rustic  summer  dancing 

15  225 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

pavilion,  with  its  glossy  floor  and  Italian 
orchestra,  was  ablaze  with  the  scintillating 
flashes  of  diamonds  which  glittered  from  the 
smartly  clad  feminine  patrons  of  the  dizzy 
whirl.  Here,  to  the  music  of  such  selections 
as,  "  Any  rags,  any  bones,  any  bottles 
to-day?  "  a  rag  two-step  is  being  performed 
by  a  marine  and  a  Venus  with  a  florid  style, 
whose  magic  spell  lends  soothing  to  the 
blues,  but  whose  high  heels  were  not  made 
for  a  minister's  daughter. 

Surrounding  the  Fair-grounds  and  in 
close  proximity  were  shows  of  every  descrip- 
tion. Conspicuous  among  these  were  For- 
est Park  Highlands,  a  veritable  Coney 
Island;  Luna  Park;  Delmar  Garden,  the 
scene  of  the  celebrated  extravaganza 
"  Louisiana,"  the  old  mill-wheel  and  "  the 
girl  in  blue,"  "  the  cave  of  the  wind,"  and 
"  the  Queen  of  the  Gypsy  fortune-tellers," 
the  Delmar  Race-track,  where  gathered 
together  could  be  found  the  most  famous 
thoroughbred  racers  of  the  world,  with  their 
coterie  of  noted  jockeys  and  attendants. 

"  Old  Heidelberg,"  in  the  German  vil- 
lage, was  the  bohemia  of  the  outskirts  of  the 

226 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 


bi^  show;  lierc,  to  the  strains  of  "  Die  Waeht 
am  Uhein,"  it  M'as  strietly  proper  to  eat 
"  hot-dogs  "  and  drink  cold  steins  of  im- 
ported "  hofF-brau." 

Sundays,  when  the  Fair  was  closed,  the 
permanent  summer  resorts  of  St.  Louis  were 
flooded  with  people.  ^lontesano,  an  island 
in  the  Mississippi  River  connected  by  a  fleet 
of  steamboats,  was  the  most  favored  Sunday 
resort;  the  trip  down  the  river  alone  broke 
the  monotonoy  of  the  quietude  of  a  hot 
summer  day.  The  island,  with  its  groves  of 
shady  maple  trees  and  inviting  dells,  extend- 
ing from  the  smooth  sandy  beach  and 
through  the  interior,  was  an  ideal  spot  to 
while  away  the  midday  hours  in  lingering 
lassitude.  There  were  dancing,  boating, 
fishing,  roller-coasting,  flirtations,  and  all 
that  goes  to  make  up  an  ideal  pleasure  resort. 
Along  the  beach,  children  with  diminutive 
spades  dug  holes  in  the  sand  in  search  for 
shells.  Games  of  all  descriptions  were  con- 
ducted quietly,  and  with  far  less  compunc- 
tion than  under  the  restraint  and  restrictive 
laws  elsewhere  enforced. 

Merrimac    Highlands    and    Creve    Canir 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 


Lake,  reached  by  scenic  railways,  were  also 
popular  places  of  amusement. 

The  daily  average  attendance  at  the  expo- 
sition was  sixty  thousand,  and  those  repre- 
sented nations  of  all  countries  and  zones. 

It  was  very  amusing  to  hear  some  of  the 
nonsensical  questions  that  were  asked  by  our 
rural  friends  from  the  land  of  the  sage-brush 
and  cactus.  On  one  occasion  I  was  ap- 
proached by  an  elderly  lady  with  the  follow- 
ing query,  "  Soldier,  would  you  kindly  tell 
me  what  time  they  feed  the  lagoons?"  I 
was  nonplussed  at  the  question,  but  ventured 
to  ask,  "  Is  it  a  bird  or  an  animal?  "  She 
wasn't  sure  which,  she  said,  but  a  friend  of 
hers  had  told  her  that  it  was  a  mighty  inter- 
esting sight.  I  had  heard  of  raccoons,  loons, 
and  baboons  with  Mr.  Hagenbach's  wild 
animal  show,  and,  knowing  these  had  to  be 
fed,  I  directed  the  misinformed  old  lady  to 
this  site  on  the  Pike,  where  I  trust  her  mis- 
construction of  the  word  or  misinformation 
was  amended. 

Having  some  business  in  St.  Louis  in  con- 
nection with  our  canteen  or  camp  exchange 
which  necessitated  the  carrying  of  my  haver- 

228 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


.sack,  1  liad  left  camp  for  the  Olive  Street 
car  line,  when  1  noticed  a  fellow  in  hot  pur- 
suit who  reminded  me  of  a  butterfly  catcher 
in  a  field  of  daisies  down  on  the  farm.  Hail- 
ing me,  he  gasped,  "  ]Mail-man,  please  stamp 
these  cards  and  mail  them  for  me;  "  handing 
me  a  half-dollar  with  a  bunch  of  post-cards, 
he  continued  on  his  leap-frog  gait.  "  Whoa ! 
come  back  here,"  I  shouted.  "  Oh,  that's 
all  right;  buy  yourself  some  cigars  with  the 
change,"  he  answered.  On  mailing  them  I 
noticed  they  were  all  addressed  to  Arkansas; 
that  accounts  for  it,  I  said  to  myself,  he 
must  be  one  of  those  Arkansas  travellers. 

Not  far  from  our  camp  was  a  high  spiral 
tower,  on  the  top  of  which  was  the  wireless 
telegraph  exhibit  connected  by  a  lift  or  ele- 
vator. "Is  this  the  scenic  railway?"  a 
young  lady  inquired.  "  Xot  yet,"  I  replied ; 
"  that  is  the  elevated  railroad."  She  smiled 
and  thanked  me  very  much.  Why,  they 
even  went  to  the  Kentucky  building  to 
invite  Daniel  Boone  out  for  dinner! 

Every  day  the  marine  camp  was  the  scene 
of  a  constant  stream  of  visitors,  many  of 
whom  were  in  search  of  friends  and  rela- 

229 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

tives.  For  more  than  a  year  before  my 
departure  from  the  Philippine  Islands  I 
had  studiousl}^  contemplated  serving  at  this 
post  of  duty,  and  felt  assured  of  my  success, 
so  in  consequence  had  written  a  number  of 
friends  in  various  cities  of  the  United  States 
who  I  knew  were  anticipating  the  pleasures 
of  the  greatest  show  on  earth. 

The  cool  days  of  early  autumn  seemed  to 
be  the  most  popular  season  for  the  Eastern 
and  Western  visitors;  each  day  groups  of 
friends,  ensconced  under  the  khaki  canvas 
of  an  A  wall  tent  or  seated  on  steamer- 
chairs  along  the  smooth  level  lawn,  joined  in 
social  intercourse  with  these  jolly  rovers  of 
land  and  sea.  Tent  number  2  was  daily  the 
scene  of  some  festive  occasion,  the  erstwhile 
pranks  of  which  were  likened  unto  a  scene 
from  the  "  Rodgers  Brothers  in  Paris."  On 
these  occasions  the  author  was  assisted  by 
his  dear  friends  and  compatriots  Boland  and 
Fynmore. 

Before  going  to  St.  Louis  as  pay-clerk  of 
the  battalion,  I  had  spent  three  years  afloat 
and  in  the  tropics,  and  during  that  time  had 
met  but  one  man  from  my  native  town,  with 

230 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

the  exception  of  my  father,  who  visited  me 
in  Washington,  D.  C,  prior  to  our  depart- 
nre,  and  wliosc  perplexities  in  the  Kxecutive 
^lansion  on  meeting  President  Roosevelt 
were  hrimful  of  excellent  humor  even 
though  the  seasoning  was  of  the  ludicrous 
variety. 

The  circumstances  attending  the  meeting 
of  the  otiier  man  in  question  were  excep- 
tionally singular.  It  was  late  in  the  autumn 
of  1902,  and  I  was  stationed  in  the  old 
"  Quartel  de  Espanol "  at  Fort  San  Phi- 
lippi,  Cavite,  P.  I.  Every  evening  about 
sundown,  when  not  on  duty,  it  was  my  cus- 
tom to  stroll  with  a  friend  or  two  to  a  haci- 
enda in  the  adjacent  "  barrio  "  of  San  Ruki, 
where  the  soft-toned  music  from  a  harp  and 
guitar  was  artistically  rendered  by  two 
charming  mestizos.  At  this  native  bunga- 
low, shaded  by  large  palms  and  drooping 
banana  stalks,  gathered  nightly  the  elite  of 
the  village,  and  occasionally  senoritas  from 
the  city  of  ^lanila,  whose  predominant 
beauty,  in  fluffy  kimonos  woven  from  the 
fibre  of  the  pineapple  with  a  texture  as  fine 
as  silk,  was  augmented  by  that  indisputable 

231 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

mark  of  Spanish  aristocracy,  the  ever-pro- 
pitious mantilla.  By  the  dim  light  of  a 
candelabrum  which  fluttered  in  the  evening 
zephyrs,  these  social  gatherings  were  regu- 
lated with  that  Oriental  quiescence  and 
technique  to  the  manner  born. 

It  was  while  wending  my  way  home  in 
the  moonlight  from  such  an  allurement  of 
beauty  and  music,  that  I  chanced  along  the 
Calle  Real  and  into  the  Cafe  Del  Monte, 
when  I  was  agreeably  surprised  to  see, 
seated  at  a  game  of  cards,  my  old  shipmate 
"  Jack  "  Lavery  of  the  cruiser  New  York. 
Being  clothed  in  a  suit  of  civic  white  duck,  I 
was  unrecognized  for  a  moment.  "  Hello, 
Jack !  "  I  exclaimed.  "  Well,  Bill !  for  God's 
sake,  where  did  you  come  from?  I  thought 
you  were  in  China  on  board  the  monitor 
Monadnock?  "  "  No,  the  application  was 
disapproved  of,  so  I  fired  in  another  for 
shore  duty."  "  Well,  but  you  left  us  in 
Shanghai."  "  Yes,  my  application  was 
approved  there,  I  crossed  the  sea  on  the  gun- 
boat Manila."  "  Well,  where  are  you 
now?"  "Fort  San  Philippi."  "Good! 
Shake  hands  with  some  friends  of  mine. — 

232 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 

Fellows,  we'll  have  the  story  about  the 
floors  in  Algiers  to-night. — Waiter!  take 
the  order;  bring  in  some  Egyptians  and  a 
new  pinocle  deck."  Having  been  furnished 
with  the  order,  the  cards  were  dealt  and  we 
made  our  melds. 

The  fourth  game  was  in  progress,  and,  as 
the  cards  were  being  dealt,  1  remarked  to 
my  partner,  whose  cuffs  had  been  rolled 
back,  "  Corporal,  that  dragon  represents 
artistic  work;  where  did  you  have  that 
done?"  "  The  dragon  was  tattooed  by  an 
expert  on  the  Queen's  lload  in  Hong  Kong; 
these  storks  1  had  put  on  in  Kobe,  Japan; 
and  the  spider's  webb  was  worked  in  at 
Cairo,  by  a  professional  who  had  the  honor 
of  tattooing  his  excellency  the  Khedive  of 
Egypt."  "  That  is  pretty  work,  and  I  see 
it  harmonizes  with  the  blue  scar  on  your 
wrist ;  where  did  you  dig  coal  ?  "  "  Oh,  years 
ago,  away  back  in  Pennsylv^ania,  all  the  way 
from  slate-picking  to  working  a  gangway." 
"  What  })art  of  Pennsylvania,  may  I  ask?  " 
"  Hazleton,  Luzerne  County."  "  Hazle- 
ton?  Are  you  from  Hazleton?"  "Pretty 
close  to  it;  my  home  is  in  Beaver  Brook,  a 

233 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

little  mining  hamlet  about  three  miles  south 
of  the  city."  "  Great  heavens!  ten  thousand 
five  hundred  miles  from  home,  and  here  is  a 
native  of  my  own  village,"  I  soliloquized. 
"  Did  you  ever  know  a  family  in  Beaver 

Brook  named  A ?  "    "  Did  I?— for  the 

Lord's  sake,  is  it  possible  that  you  are  young 

B y  A ?  "    "  That's  me,  old  chap." 

"Well!  Well!  put  her  there,  old  boy. 
Twenty-two  years  have  passed  by  since  I 
worked  for  your  father.  I  am  Johnny 
Coyle;  don't  you  remember  Jack?  "  "  Well, 
Jack,  my  old  school-mate,  shake  again. 
Truth  is  stranger  than  fiction.  School- 
mates, ship-mates,  landsmen,  bandsmen,  and 
marines,  come  on,  let's  celebrate;  press  the 
button,  sergeant,  and  we'll  sing,  "I'll  meet 
you  at  the  hedge  where  the  huckle-berries 
bloom." 

For  several  days  my  home  city,  Hazleton, 
Pennsylvania,  was  well  represented  at  the 
"  Fair," — a  special  containing  a  large  con- 
course of  Sir  Knights  of  the  Masonic  Fra- 
ternity who,  accompanied  by  their  wives  and 
daughters,  were  homeward  bound  from  San 
Francisco,  where  they  had  been  attending  a 

234 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

^Masonic  conclave.  Having  the  esteemed 
acquaintance  of  nearly  every  member  of  the 
jolly  bunch,  1  was  delighted  and  felt  highly 
honored  with  their  visit  in  our  camp.  In 
my  four  years  of  travel  around  the  world, 
these  were  the  lirst  people  from  home  whom 
I  had  met,  with  the  afore-noted  exceptions. 

Each  day  was  given  to  some  especial 
event.  Kvery  State  in  the  Union  celebrated 
on  one  particular  day,  the  buildings  repre- 
senting the  State  being  more  elaborately 
decorated  for  this  occasion.  This  function 
was  attended  by  their  respective  governors 
and  staff,  occasionally  accompanied  by  a 
troop  of  horse  or  infantry.  Various 
branches  of  business  had  their  day ;  there  was 
also  theatrical  day,  automobilist  day,  Elk 
day,  and  in  fact  every  day  during  the  con- 
tinuance of  the  "  Fair  "  was  taken  up  by 
some  particular  branch  of  business  or  pro- 
fession, the  turnstile  recording  the  largest 
attendance  on  Chicago  and  St.  Eouis  day. 

Theatrical  day  T  had  the  pleasure  of 
escorting  a  party  of  the  profession,  whose 
names  in  glittering  light  frequently  adorned 
the  theatres  along  Forty-second  Street  and 

235 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  "  Great  White  Way,"  through  the 
marine  camp,  the  Pike,  Cheyenne  Joe's,  and 
later  joined  in  the  merriment  at  a  dinner  in 
the  Tyrolean  Alps.  A  quartette  of  Indian 
chiefs  occupied  a  table  some  distance  from 
ours,  among  whom  was  the  famous  old 
Apache  warrior  Geronimo.  On  learning 
that  one  of  the  chiefs  was  Geronimo,  a 
member  of  our  party,  a  celebrated  singer  of 
coon  songs,  expressed  a  desire  to  meet  him, 
whereupon  I  invited  the  Indians  to  join  the 
"  Merry  Wanderers  of  the  Night."  After 
the  introduction  the  old  chief  made  a  speech 
in  the  Apache  tongue;  they  sang,  danced, 
chanted,  and  became  quite  hilarious;  this 
was  not  due,  however,  to  the  stimulants  of 
the  Tyrolean  Alps,  for,  although  the  Indians 
M^ould  have  relished  a  mint  julep,  they  were 
obliged  to  indulge  in  milder  potations.  Each 
chief,  before  departing,  had  ardently  pro- 
posed to  the  actress  of  his  choice,  who 
accepted  him  in  the  language  and  manner  of 
the  stage.  The  wee  hours  of  the  morning 
were  gliding  by  as  this  jovial  party  of  merry- 
makers boarded  their  "  special  "  of  palace 
sleepers,  and  thus  ended  a  round  of  joy, 
keen  wit,  and  humor. 

236 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


Strong  resentment  against  the  conduet 
of  Filipino  scouts  had  heen  expressed  in 
diiFerent  quarters  of  the  "  Fair,"  and 
trouble  between  these  and  the  white  sol- 
diers had  been  narrowly  averted  a  number 
of  times.  The  flirtations  between  white 
women  of  apparent  respectability  and  the 
islanders  had  created  adverse  criticism.  The 
marines,  goaded  by  these  flirtations  and  see- 
ing fashionably  gowned  women  on  the  arms 
of  Filipinos  promenading  the  Pike,  felt  that 
it  was  more  than  they  could  stand.  In  con- 
sequence a  plan  of  campaign  was  outlined. 
One  of  the  officers  said,  "  I  foresaw  this 
situation  and  gave  warning  that  it  would 
come  about.  It  is  amazing  the  way  white 
women  shower  attentions  on  the  scouts, 
parading  them  to  their  homes  and  all  that 
sort  of  thing." 

On  several  occasions  marines  had  inter- 
fered when  white  girls  were  seen  with  the 
scouts;  this  usually  precipitated  a  tight, 
causing  bitter  feelings  in  both  cami)s.  The 
resentment  against  the  brown  men,  which 
continued  growing  stronger  daily,  took  form 
when,  at  about  ten  o'clock  at  night,  sixty 

237 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

soldiers  of  the  scout  battalion  surrounded 
and  assaulted  ten  marines,  who,  after  a 
pitched  battle,  compelled  their  assailants  to 
retreat.  The  marines  returned  to  camp, 
and,  expecting  trouble,  were  awaiting  rein- 
forcements, when  a  marine  rushed  in, 
spreading  the  alarm,  that  the  Filipinos  had 
sought  succor  at  their  camp  and  that  about 
three  hundred  were  coming  down  the  Pike 
armed.  Always  reckless  and  ripe  for  ex- 
citement, a  marine  shouted,  "  Come  on, 
boys !  let's  clean  the  Gu  Gus  off  the  earth." 
This  exclamation  was  hailed  with  cheers,  and 
in  a  few  moments  more  than  one  hundred 
marines  were  in  pursuit  of  the  enemy. 
Before  reaching  the  Irish  village,  the  detach- 
ment split  into  two  sections,  one  section 
covering  the  north  end  of  the  Pike  while  the 
other  hurried  on  to  intercept  the  chocolate 
soldiers  near  Bohemia.  On  seeing  the 
marines  entering  the  Pike,  on  the  double, 
the  scouts  fled,  retreating  presumably  for  a 
darker  section  of  the  grounds  where  they 
could  adopt  their  accustomed  mode  of  fight- 
ing. It  was  too  late,  however,  for,  alas! 
they  were  hemmed   in,  and   to   the   victor 

238 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

belonged  the  spoils.  The  marines  ehar/^ed, 
a  pitelied  battle  ensued,  in  which  the  Fili- 
pinos, being  in  the  majority,  held  their 
ground  for  a  short  space  of  time,  but  soon 
wilted  under  the  terrific  onslaught  of  the 
Americans. 

This  scene  was  laughable  in  the  extreme, 
and  reminded  me  of  a  chapter  from  "  Gul- 
liver's Travels";  those  who  had  escaped  a 
knockout  were  glad  to  end  the  struggle. 
Having  retreated  toward  their  camp,  they 
had  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Agricul- 
tural Building,  when  some  of  them  drew 
arms  and  commenced  firing.  This  enraged 
the  marines  to  such  an  extent  that  they 
decided  to  charge  their  camp,  which  precipi- 
tated a  clash  with  the  Jeffersonian  Guards 
in  which  two  of  the  guards  were  seriously 
injured.  Ai  this  juncture  an  alarm  brought 
the  mounted  police  galloping  to  the  scene, 
who  finally  restored  order,  ])()th  sides  with- 
drawing to  the  peaceful  habitations  of  their 
camp. 

Washington  was  apprised  of  the  affair, 
and  the  troojjs  were  severely  rej)riiiiande(l; 
but  the  lesson  taught  the  scouts  had  great 

239 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

bearing  on  their  future  attitude  toward  the 
Americans.  The  St.  Louis  newspapers 
depicted  the  scenes  of  this  riot,  and  devoted 
several  columns  in  which  they  eulogized  the 
marines  for  the  stand  they  had  taken. 

No  military  organization  could  have  been 
treated  with  more  courtesy  than  the  marine 
battalion  at  the  St.  Louis  Exposition,  and, 
when  the  day  arrived  for  its  departure,  it 
was  with  reluctance  rather  than  pleasiu-e 
that  the  comfortable  tents,  the  scenes  of  so 
much  merriment,  had  to  be  vacated  for  the 
less  desirable  quarters  in  barracks. 

After  breaking  camp  and  securing  our 
equipment,  we  bade  the  big  show  a  fond 
farewell.  A  long  line  of  street  cars  con- 
veyed the  battalion  to  the  Union  Station, 
where  Pullman  sleepers  of  the  "  Big  Four  " 
draped  with  streamers  awaited  it.  The 
Sixth  Infantry  band  discoursed  music  as 
the  soldiers  of  the  sea  bade  their  friends 
good-by,  and,  as  they  boarded  the  two  sec- 
tions of  the  train,  the  reverberating  strains 
of  "  Maryland,  my  Maryland "  were  re- 
ceived with  vociferous  applause  by  the  mul- 
titude that  crowded  the  station  platform. 

240 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afhmt 

As  the  hand  rcndtrcd  tlic  old  war-songs 
"  Yankee  Doodle  "  and  "  Dixie,"  so  sacred 
to  tlie  North  and  the  South,  the  train  rolled 
off  for  the  quaint  little  city  of  Annapolis, 
the  capital  of  Maryland. 

The  marine  harrack  at  xVnnapolis  is  the 
finest  military  post  in  the  United  States. 
On  our  arrival  in  the  city,  the  hattalion  was 
met  hy  the  marine  hand,  and  escorted  to  the 
quarters,  where  an  especially  arranged 
dinner  lay  in  waiting. 

The  following  day,  orders  were  received 
for  the  battalion  to  proceed  to  Washington, 
I).  C,  to  participate  in  the  unveiling  of  a 
monument  to  "  Frederick  the  Great,"  pre- 
sented to  the  United  States  hy  Germany. 
This  was  the  last  procession  in  which  the 
St.  Louis  battalion  was  seen  intact. 

Shortly  after  our  return  to  Annapolis,  an 
order  was  received  from  marine  headquar- 
ters, detailing  all  men  having  two  years  or 
more  to  serve,  on  the  Panama  expedition. 
Having  less  than  one  year  to  serve  to  com- 
plete my  enlistment,  I  was  ordered  to  duty 
at  the  United  States  Xaval  Academy, 
until    the    expiration    of    my    enlistment. 

16  241 


XII. 

Topographical  Survey  in  Northern 
Luzon 

The  Friars'  Monastery — Headquarters  of  the  Insurgent 
Aguinaldo — In  Charge  of  the  Cargadores — Meeting 
with  Albinos — Among  the  Igorrote  Head-hunters  — 
Enamored  with  a  Beautiful  Senorita — Planting  Rice 
to  Music — A  Midnight  Ride  Through  the  Jungle 
— A  Moonlight  Fiesta — Quartered  in  a  Cholera  In- 
fected Hacienda — The  Jungle — The  Rainy  Season — 
Return  to  Civilization. 

In  the  summer  of  1908  while  stationed  at 
Ft.  WiUiam  McKinley,  a  military  post  in 
the  Philippines,  I  was  detailed  from  brigade 
headquarters  for  topographical  survey  on 
the  Island  of  Luzon.  This  assignment  was 
more  than  welcomed  as  a  departure  from  the 
monotonous  routine  of  guard  duty,  weari- 
some marches,  and  military  manoeuvres.  I 
was  instructed  to  report  to  First  Lieutenant 
Kenyon  A.  Joyce  of  the  Thirteenth  Cavalry, 
whose  headquarters  were  in  an  old  Spanish 

242 


Exploits    of  a   Soldier 

monastery  in  the  small  nippa-shack  village 
of  Lolonihoy,  near  the  "  barrio  "  of  liocaiie, 
situated  along  the  ^Manila  and  Dagiipan 
Railroad  between  ^Manila  and  Eaguio,  the 
famous  Philippines  health  resort. 

Hastily  gathering  together  my  necessary 
field  equipment  with  transportation  and 
orders,  1  departed  for  my  destination  with 
a  feeling  akin  to  that  of  the  small  boy  on  his 
first  excursion  from  home.  Alighting  from 
the  street  car  on  the  escolta  near  the  old 
Bridge  of  Spain,  I  purchased  some  period- 
icals and  a  large  sombrero,  then,  engaging  a 
caramato,  was  driven  to  the  Tondo  station, 
where  I  boarded  a  first-class  coach  for 
Bocaue. 

After  a  wearisome  ride  through  stifling 
humidity,  over  rice-dikes  and  througli 
jungle,  I  arrived  at  my  post  of  duty  and 
inmiediately  reported  to  the  commanding 
officer  of  the  detachment,  after  which  I 
divested  myself  of  my  accoutrements  and 
met  the  members  of  the  survey  party,  con- 
sisting of  about  twenty-four  soldiers,  repre- 
senting every  branch  of  the  United  States 
army. 

243 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

This  aged  edifice,  with  its  mysterious  sub- 
terranean vaults,  its  columns  of  Tuscan  and 
Doric  origin,  and  surrounded  by  balconies 
encompassed  with  ornamental  balustrades, 
was  occupied  by  the  soldiers  and  used  as 
headquarters  by  the  topographical  ensemble. 

Prior  to  the  Spanish- American  war,  this 
building  had  been  a  sanctuary  of  worship, 
the  abode  of  mendicant  friars.  At  the  time 
of  the  insurrection,  the  old  monastery  was 
occupied  as  headquarters  by  General  Agui- 
naldo,  until  compelled  to  relinquish  his 
stronghold  by  the  American  troops. 

Expert  Filipino  draughtsmen  were  em- 
ployed in  the  plottings  of  the  survey,  their 
work  in  delineating  offsets  being  admirably 
executed. 

The  circuitous  route  our  journey  necessi- 
tated through  mountains,  jungle,  and  across 
innumerable  streams  and  ravines  made  it 
impossible  to  use  ponies  or  caribou  in  the 
conveyance  of  our  provisions,  so  that  a  con- 
tingent of  native  cargadores  were  employed 
in  drawing  a  native  cartello,  which  carried 
not  only  the  provisions,  but  also  the  camp 
equipage,  including  our  cooking  utensils. 

244 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

The  entire  party  was  divided  into  three 
sections,  each  section  comprising  one  com- 
missioned officer,  eight  enhsted  men,  and 
four  brawny  cargadores  who  handled  tlie 
native  cart  or  cartello.  Each  section  had  a 
separate  circuit  on  which  to  work,  these  cir- 
cuits penetrating  jungle  and  mountainous 
country  hitherto  unexplored  by  the  military. 
Provisions  for  two  weeks  were  usually  car- 
ried, the  length  of  time  it  required  in  cover- 
ing our  territory. 

My  first  duty  in  connection  with  this 
survey  was  recording  the  readings  of  the 
transit,  operated  by  the  officer  in  charge. 
Our  route  led  through  the  "  barrios  "  of 
^larilao.  Santa  ]Maria,  Tomano,  Euena 
Vista,  San  Jose,  Bagbaguen,  Prensa,  and 
Santa  Cruz,  in  the  province  of  Bulacan. 
The  heat  endured  on  these  expeditions  was 
intense,  especially  along  the  rice-dikes,  which 
were  barren  of  foliage.  Occasionally,  when 
in  the  vicinity  of  a  barrio  where  we  had  but 
one  night  to  remain,  instead  of  spreading 
canvas  we  bivouacked  uikKt  the  roof  of 
some  convenient  casa.  On  one  occasion, 
having  worked  until  sundown,  our  cartello 

245 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of   a 

was  drawn  alongside  of  an  old  native  house 
of  worship,  in  the  barrio  of  Buena  Vista, 
where  a  "  fiesta  "  had  been  in  progress  for 
several  days.  Here,  under  the  eaves  of  this 
sacred  shrine,  this  soldier  outfit  dined  "  A  la 
cartello." 

In  the  interior  of  this  sanctuary,  the 
flickering  lights  in  a  large  candelabrum,  at 
the  base  of  the  crucifix,  shone  dimly  through 
the  gloom.  With  a  feeling  of  absolute 
safety,  the  soldiers  spread  their  ponchos 
over  the  bamboo  matting  and,  wrapped  in 
blankets,  reposed  in  peaceful  slumber. 
There  was  nothing  to  disturb  the  tranquillity 
of  this  night  until,  shortly  before  the  break 
of  dawn,  we  were  aroused  by  the  tolling  of 
the  bells,  and  the  chanting  of  the  Ave  Maria, 
uttered  in  solemn  devotion  by  a  long  proces- 
sion of  natives  garbed  in  ceremonious  black, 
preceded  by  a  senorita  bearing  a  cross, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  torch-bearers.  As 
the  procession  moved  slowly  down  the  aisle, 
the  soldiers  arose  from  their  unusual  berth 
and,  occupying  seats,  observed  the  cere- 
monies with  respectful  silence.  These 
natives  were  the  thoroughbred  Tagalogs,  the 

246 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

aborigines  of  the  riiilippincs,  the  greater 
number  of  them  being  converts  to  Roman 
Catholicism,  the  bahmce  adhering  to  the 
doctrines  of  the  Reformation,  or  the  Prot- 
estant rehgion. 

Leaving  Buena  Vista,  our  route  led 
through  the  beautiful  Marquina  Valley, 
M  itli  its  immense  forests  of  bamboo,  ebony, 
sapan-wood,  and  gum-trees  entwined  by  the 
bush-rope  of  palasan,  trees  teeming  with  the 
luscious  mango  and  guava,  bordering  on 
plantations  and  groves  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  including  the  banana,  plantain, 
sugarcane,  pineapple,  coffee,  cinnamon, 
and  tobacco. 

From  ^larquina  our  course  led  into  the 
dense  forest  of  the  San  Madre  Mountains. 
Before  leaving  the  valley,  I  was  detailed  to 
handle  the  cargadores.  This  party  in  itself 
was  a  comedy;  the  only  things  they  thought 
seriously  of  were  cigarettes,  salmon,  and 
rice.  I  gave  each  of  them  a  sobriquet, — 
namely,  "  Blinky,"  Pedro,  Carlo,  and 
Pablo  de  Gusman.  Blinky,  a  one-eyed 
dusky  savage,  was  the  hero  of  tlie  drama; 
wlicn  he  wanted  anything,  he  would  pat  me 

247 


Exploits    and   Adventures   of  a 

on  the  arm  and  exclaim,  "  El  capitan,  mucho 
bueno,"  and  in  the  same  breath,  "  Dalle  mi 
cigarillo."  He  would  then  wink  at  the 
others.  Blinky  was  familiar  with  the  lay  of 
the  land,  and  was  a  valuable  assistant  when 
it  came  to  questions  of  emergency,  such  as 
getting  the  cartello  across  a  stream  or  a  deep 
ravine.  It  was  sometimes  necessary  in 
crossing  a  river,  to  unload  our  cargo  and 
ship  it  across  in  a  binto,  a  boat  similar  to  a 
canoe,  then  float  the  vehicle  across  the  best 
way  we  could. 

Having  been  detained  rather  late  one 
evening  in  a  barrio  where  I  had  been  ex- 
changing rice,  bacon,  and  salmon,  for 
chickens,  eggs,  and  vegetables,  I  could  have 
made  my  objective  point  before  sundown 
had  not  something  unforeseen  occurred;  we 
had  reached  an  unexpected  ravine  or  gorge 
through  which  a  torrent  of  water  gushed; 
here  we  found  it  necessary  to  cut  two  bamboo 
trees  on  which  to  slide  the  cartello  across  on 
its  hubs.  We  were  having  excellent  success 
when  the  hubs  slipped  off,  dumping  our 
cargo  into  the  stream  and  Pablo  de  Gusman 
with  it.     Luckily  the   native  grabbed   the 

248 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


wheel  of  the  cart  and  was  saved.  A  rope 
attached  to  tlie  front  of  the  cartello  was  the 
means  of  oin*  saving  the  greater  part  of  the 
rations;  but  we  were  in  a  sorrowful  plight,  it 
being  impossible  to  drag  such  a  load  up  the 
precipitous  slopes.  We  found  it  necessary 
to  pack  the  cargo  up  piece  by  piece.  The 
scene  was  laughable  in  the  extreme:  Blinky 
looked  as  though  he  had  been  sentenced  to 
be  shot,  while  the  singsong  chorus  of  native 
lingo,  like  the  buzzing  rabble  of  Italian  emi- 
grants, combined  with  reaching  the  site  of 
our  camp  in  the  darkness,  completed  my 
baleful  imbroglio.  Let  it  suffice  to  say:  an 
impatient  mapping  detail  awaited  our 
arrival. 

The  country  through  wliich  we  passed 
was  one  of  tropical  grandeur;  monkeys, 
wild-boar,  and  parrots  were  frequently  seen 
along  the  mountain  ranges.  At  night  it  was 
interesting  to  watch  the  vampires  darting 
hither  and  thither  over  mango-trees,  nipping 
the  delicious  mangos,  sometimes  carrying 
them  to  their  roosts  lor  tlieir  young.  These 
vampires  resemble  a  })at,  tliongh  much 
larger;  the  body  is  nboul  tlie  size  of  a  kitten, 

249 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

the  wings  measuring  when  fully  developed 
six  feet  from  tip  to  tip. 

Albinos  are  frequently  met  with  in 
northern  Luzon ;  on  one  occasion,  strange  to 
relate,  we  came  in  contact  with  a  small 
colony  of  this  type  of  people,  unrelated, 
however,  as  the  albino  is  a  freak  of  nature 
possessing  no  inherency.  They  were  reluc- 
tant to  converse,  contenting  themselves  with 
looking  on,  as  they  shielded  their  pink  eyes 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun  with  a  fan  of  the 
palm-leaf.  The  interest  we  Americans 
manifested  in  these  people  seemed  greatly  to 
amuse  the  Filipinos. 

The  Igorrote  head-hunters  are  a  wild  tribe 
inhabiting  the  northern  provinces.  Their 
features  are  large,  with  kinky  hair,  large 
teeth,  and  black  complexions.  Thej'-  are  far 
below  the  other  tribes  in  intellect  and  intel- 
ligence. The  appellation  "  head-hunter  " 
has  its  significance  in  the  fact  that  the  head 
of  the  enemy  is  taken  as  a  relic,  similar  to 
the  custom  of  the  American  Indian  in  scalp- 
ing his  victim.  We  watched  these  barbarians 
killing  dogs  for  market,  saw  them  making 
grasshopper  pies,  and,  to  our  disgust,  they 

250 


Soldier      Ashore     and     Afloat 


ate  c<yfi;s  with  cliickens  in  tlicni,  K^gs  con- 
taining- cliickcns  were  worth  douhle  the  price 
of  I'resh  cg^s. 

It  was  a  orcat  pleasure  to  return  to  our 
hea(l(iuarters  in  the  okl  monastery,  where 
wholesome  food  and  cool  shower-haths  could 
he  had.  The  evenings  at  this  domicile  were 
always  enjoyahly  spent,  either  at  cards, 
reading,  or  music.  Occasionally,  Sehastian 
Gomez,  an  old  Filipino,  would  hring  his  two 
granddaughters  to  the  quarters;  these  were 
fairly  good-looking  senoritas  and  excellent 
musicians,  the  one  playing  the  harp  while 
the  other  played  the  accordion,  accom])anied 
by  the  old  man  with  a  guitar.  Very  often  a 
deputy  revenue  collector,  who  s])cnt  consid- 
erable time  with  us,  would  ,)()in  this  trio  with 
a  violin,  and  these  instruments  combined 
rendered  excellent  music. 

Occasionally  my  work  consisted  in  plant- 
ing signal-llags  on  points  of  vantage,  where 
they  could  be  seen  through  the  telescope  of 
a  transit.  It  was  incidental  to  one  of  these 
trips  that  Kane,  of  the  Kngineer  Cor])s,  and 
myself,  while  driving  through  a  remote 
barrio,  came  in  contact  with  the  beautiful 

261 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

Senorita  Carmen  Lemaire.  In  my  travels 
I  had  encountered  many  odd  freaks  of 
nature,  leaving  me  not  overly  susceptible  to 
surprise;  on  this  occasion,  however,  the 
unique  circumstance  attending  the  incident 
created  little  less  than  astonishment.  The 
fact  that  to  hear  the  Anglo-American 
tongue  spoken  by  natives  even  in  Manila 
was  a  rarity  seldom  enjoyed,  made  this  event 
the  more  surprising. 

We  had  left  headquarters  at  Lolomboy  in 
the  early  morning,  with  a  pony  hitched  to  a 
cartello  containing  the  signal-flags,  tent 
equipage,  and  rations  for  three  days.  Cross- 
ing the  ferry  at  Bocaue,  we  struck  a  north- 
erly route  running  west  of  ]\Ialolos,  the  old 
Filipino  capital.  We  had  covered  a  number 
of  miles  over  a  dusty  road  and  through 
sweltering  heat,  when  a  quaint  little  barrio 
shaded  bj^  cocoa  and  palm  trees  on  the  banks 
of  the  Cianti  River  was  reached.  As  the 
pony  jogged  along  through  the  heart  of  the 
village,  turning  out  occasionally  for  the 
little  pickaninnies  who  played  in  the  street, 
my  eyes  fell  on  something  unusual  for  this 
section    of    the    world, — an    exceptionally 

252 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

beautiful  scnorita,  apparently  a  mestizo  of 
Kuroj^ean  extraetion,  presidiiif^  over  a  fruit- 
stand  in  front  of  a  large  haeienda,  from 
"svhieh  exhaled  the  sweet  odor  of  grated- 
cocoanut  boiling  in  the  syrup  of  the  sugar- 
cane. 

"Kane,  did  you  see  that!*"  I  asked. 
"  Yes,  some  class;  I  wonder  where  that  com- 
plexion came  from,"'  he  replied.  "  Let's 
try  and  find  out,"  I  said. 

It  was  about  the  hour  for  the  Filipino 
siesta  and  time  for  "tiffin";  so,  drawing 
under  the  shade  of  a  large  mango  tree,  we 
tied  and  fed  the  pony,  and  I  informed  the 
engineer  that  I  was  going  to  buy  some  eggs. 
"  Let  me  buy  them,"  said  Kane,  smilingly. 

Approaching  the  hacienda,  I  saw  standing 
under  the  eaves,  with  the  grace  of  a  Wana- 
maker  cloak-niodel  and  the  beauty  of  the 
allegorical  Psyche,  a  Filipino  senorita  still 
in  her  'teens,  whose  raven  tresses  would  have 
been  the  envy  of  the  "  Sutherland  sisters." 
"  Buenos  dios,  senorita,"  I  ventured. 
"  Buenos  dios."  she  replied.  "  Tiene 
wcibus?  "  (Tagalog  for  "  Have  you  eggs?") , 
"  Si,    senor,"    she    replied.      Kane,    whose 

253 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

knowledge  of  the  dialects  was  limited, 
appearing  on  the  scene,  said,  "  How  do  you 
do?"  "Quite  well,  thank  you;  how  are 
you?  "  she  said.  "  Better,"  said  Kane,  smil- 
ing in  expressive  surprise.  At  first  I 
thought  it  an  apparition  with  a  voice ;  to  hear 
good  old  United  States  spoken  in  a  feminine 
voice,  after  being  inflicted  for  months  with 
the  pigeon  English  of  Chinese  and  the  smat- 
tering cackle  of  the  natives  was  almost  too 
good  to  be  true. 

"  Are  you  soldiers  the  advance-guard  of 
a  regiment,  or  merely  out  for  a  joy  ride? " 
she  inquired,  showing  two  rows  of  pearly 
teeth  through  an  inquisitive  smile.  "  Joy 
ride  is  right,  with  room  for  six,"  replied 
Kane.  Here  my  curiosity  led  me  to  inquire 
as  to  how  this  illustrious  personage  had 
acquired  such  fluency  in  the  English  lan- 
guage. Whereupon  she  informed  me  that 
she  had  been  educated  at  the  University  of 
Manila  and  was  a  school-teacher  home  on 
vacation. 

Having  purchased  some  eggs,  she  further 
attracted  our  attention  by  volunteering  to 
fry  them,  and  asking  if  we  desired  the  albu- 

254 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


men  scrambled  with  the  yolk.  Her  com- 
plexion was  a  study,  for,  although  her  hair 
and  eyes  were  of  raven  black,  her  color  was 
fair,  with  features  resembling  the  Louisiana 
Creole.  She  set  a  very  dainty  repast,  con- 
sisting of  rice,  fish,  eggs,  and  fried  plan- 
tains, and,  suffice  to  say,  we  three — Kane, 
the  pony,  and  myself — were  exceedingly 
happy;  the  pony  because  he  had  reached  the 
end  of  his  journey,  for  there  were  no  flags 
put  up  that  day. 

Before  our  departure  we  exchanged 
addresses;  I  found  her  name  to  be  Carmen 
Lemaire,  which  further  increased  my  curi- 
osity. Having  asked  permission  to  pay  her 
a  visit  some  evening  in  the  future  she  in- 
formed me  that  it  would  afford  her  much 
pleasure  to  have  me  call,  but  that  several 
natives  were  very  jealous  of  her,  including  a 
cousin  whose  ire,  if  aroused  by  my  calling 
after  sundown,  might  jeopardize  my  life; 
therefore  any  other  than  an  iiiipromptu  day- 
light visit  would  be  imprudent  for  her  to 
approve,  -.Assuring  the  senorita  a  little 
boastfully  of  my  utter  disregard  for  the 
marksmanship  of  her  suitors,  of  my  utmost 

255 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

confidence  in  fate,  and  my  inability  to  call 
during  the  day  she  set  an  evening  in  the 
following  week  for  me  to  see  her. 

Bidding  adieu,  we  left  this  hacienda  with 
its  fair  inhabitant,  and  journeyed  on  our 
route.  The  following  day  the  pony  had  to 
go  some  to  make  up  for  lost  time,  and  it 
required  the  best  part  of  three  days  to  com- 
plete the  work.  Our  return  trip  was  the 
longest  way  round,  but  not  the  sweetest  way 
home. 

On  our  return  to  Lolomboy  we  told  the 
story  of  having  met  the  beautiful  senorita. 
The  old  Filipino  Sebastian  knew  of  her,  and 
told  us  she  had  been  selected  to  act  as  queen 
of  the  "  Grande  Fiesta "  at  the  Manila 
Carnival. 

The  following  Thursday  evening  before 
sundown,  "  knighthood  was  in  flower." 
Having  selected  and  placed  some  choice 
literature  in  my  saddle-bags,  I  mounted  a 
pony  and  galloped  off  for  the  scene  of  my 
triumph  "with  the  visage  of  the  charming 
Carmen  before  me. 

The  iridescent  hues  of  the  vanishing  sun 
tinted  the  western  horizon,  as  I  reined  my 

256 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

pony  into  a  verdant  trail,  winding  with  the 
course  of  the  river,  ahiiost  hidden  from  view 
by  the  high  grass  that  lined  the  trail  on 
either  side.  The  moon  at  its  full  shone 
through  the  cocoanuts  hanging  in  clusters 
from  the  tall  trees,  as  I  dismounted  at  the 
Lemaire  hacienda  in  the  barrio  of  Montao. 
A  Filipino  patrol  passing  by  took  charge 
of  the  pony,  thereby  relieving  my  mind  of 
the  fear  of  its  being  stolen  by  ladrones,  who 
lurk  in  the  mountain  districts  of  Luzon. 

On  entering  the  large  bamboo  casa,  with 
its  nippa  eaves  extending  beyond  the  walls, 
I  was  met  by  the  affable  Carmen,  and  con- 
ducted to  a  cosey  retreat,  in  the  manner  and 
customs  of  the  Philippines.  After  meeting 
her  mother,  a  very  retiring  Filipino  lady,  I 
presented  the  senorita  with  the  periodicals, 
which  included  the  San  Francisco  Sunset 
^Magazine,  containing  my  picture  taken  at 
Salt  Lake  City  when  a  soldier  in  a  machine- 
gun  battery.  Her  beauty  on  this  occasion 
was  augmented  by  a  pretty  silken  kimono 
and  straw  sandals,  characteristically  simple. 
In  her  hair  she  wore  a  pink  carnation,  whicli 
vied    in    beautiful    contrast    with    her    com- 


257 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

plexion.  A  gold  necklace  with  pendant 
attached  and  a  finger-ring  of  turquoise  and 
diamonds  completed  her  attire. 

Side  by  side  on  the  wall  hung  two  large 
pictures, — one  the  martyred  pa'iriot  Jose 
Rizal,  the  other  the  ex-Governor-General  of 
the  Philippines,  now  our  President,  William 
H.  Taft.  On  the  opposite  wall  hung  the 
sefiorita's  much-cherished  diploma  from  the 
University  of  Manila  and  a  certificate  of 
belles-lettres.  Books  were  shelved  in  galore. 
An  East  Indian  matting  covered  the  bam- 
boo floors,  while  the  sleeping  compartments 
were  hidden  from  view  by  large  portieres. 
Various  articles  of  interest  were  shown  to 
me,  including  photographs,  a  prayer-book 
printed  in  Spain  in  the  sixteenth  century, 
and  the  bridal-veil  worn  by  her  mother  on 
her  wedding  morn. 

During  the  evening  the  son  of  the  presi- 
dente  of  the  village,  accompanied  by  his 
sweetheart,  a  pleasing  young  couple,  called 
at  the  hacienda.  Being  unable  to  hold  an 
intelligent  conversation  with  these  guests, 
our  conversazione  was  one  of  ignorance 
crasse.        The      elder      Senora      Lemaire, 

258 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 

Carmen's  mother,  served  the  giiests  Avith 
hmeade  and  charlotte-russe,  which  were 
delectable  and  refreshing. 

After  the  couple  had  departed,  I  related 
several  stories  of  the  United  wStates  to  this 
amiable  senorita.  I  told  of  my  home  away 
off  in  Pennsylvania,  my  school  days,  friends, 
escapades,  the  war,  my  travels,  and  inci- 
dentally mentioned  the  resemblance  she  bore 
the  Creoles  of  New  Orleans,  among  whom  I 
liad  spent  a  winter;  l)eing  careful  to  impress 
on  her  mind,  that  the  Creole  is  of  Spanish 
and  French  descent,  not  negro,  as  some 
educated  people  suppose.  She  listened  very 
attentively  to  my  stories,  occasionally  asking 
questions, particularly  regarding  the  Creoles. 

The  anecdotes  of  her  college  da^'s  were 
more  than  interesting,  as  were  the  stories  she 
told  about  the  insurrection.  She  was  very 
familiar  with  the  history  of  the  war,  from 
the  blowing  uji  of  the  Maine  to  the  battle 
of  the  "  crater  "  in  the  Siilu. 

**  Lemaire  is  a  very  uncommon  name  in 
the  Philippines,  is  it  not?"  I  remarked. 
"  Ves,"  she  sighed,  "  very  uncommon." 
Realizing  the  interest  I  took  in  her,  and  the 

260 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

eagerness  I  possessed  to  hear  some  of  her 
life's  histoiy  she  continued: 

"  About  twenty  years  ago  a  party  of 
European  surveyors  employed  by  the 
Manila  and  Dagupan  Railroad,  in  survey- 
ing this  section  of  my  country,  were  sta- 
tioned at  Malolos,  my  former  home.  In 
the  course  of  human  events,  one  of  the  party 
— namely,  Armand  Lemaire — became  en- 
amoured with  and  courted  my  mother,  with 
whom  he  was  eventually  joined  in  holy  wed- 
lock. Of  this  union  I  am  the  fruition.  At 
the  expiration  of  my  father's  duties  in  the 
Philippines,  he  was  ordered  to  India,  where, 
falling  a  victim,  he  succumbed  to  the 
plague."  Reaching  into  the  drawer  of  an 
escritoire,  she  drew  forth  the  picture  of  a 
man,  whose  intelligent  features  clearly  indi- 
cated the  ancestry  of  this  charming  young 
woman. 

Continuing,  she  said:  "  ^ly  mother,  on 
receiving  notice  of  my  father's  death,  took 
up  her  residence  on  this  plantation,  provided 
before  his  departure  for  India,  and  here  she 
has  lived  ever  since  in  pensive  quietude, 
never  fully  recovering  from  the  effects  of 
her  dire  misfortune." 

260 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


There  was  sonietliiii^-  unusually  pathetic 
in  this  sincere  ^j^irls  story,  and  my  conjec- 
ture, as  1  gazed  on  her  mother's  bridal-veil, 
had  found  a  sequel.  With  the  assurance  of 
my  utmost  sympathy,  the  conversation 
switched  on  to  other  topics,  (ilancing  at  my 
watch  the  hands  indicated  midnight,  and  1 
had  told  the  patrol  to  be  on  hand  with  my 
pony  at  eleven  o'clock. 

Glancing  over  the  balustrade.  Carmen  in- 
quired, "  Donde  cabalyo^  "  The  patrol  had 
arrived  with  the  pony  as  if  by  magic. 

As  I  bade  Carmen  Lemaire  a  fond  adieu, 
she  again  admonished  me  as  to  the  possible 
violence  of  her  jealous  suitors.  "  Keep  on 
the  alert  and  take  no  chances,"  she  said. 

After  tipping  the  patrol  a  two-peso  note, 
I  mounted  my  pony,  and  wafting  a  "  buenos- 
notches  "  galloped  off  in  the  pale  moon- 
light, sincerely  wishing  some  dusky  rival 
would  take  a  shot  at  me,  that  I  might  demon- 
strate "  the  survival  of  the  fittest." 

My  ride  through  the  jungle  in  lonely 
contemplation  was  uneventful  until  the 
barrio  of  IJocaue  was  reached.  Here  I 
found  a  barrier  in  the  shape  of  a  river.     I 

261 


Exploits   and   Adventures  of  a 

had  failed  to  take  into  consideration  that 
the  ferry  ceased  running  at  midnight.  The 
ferry,  a  flat-bottomed  scow  capable  of  carry- 
ing about  fifty  people,  was  moored  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  and  no  one  there 
to  man  it.  I  had  my  choice  of  two  things, — 
namely,  swim  the  current  or  wait  until 
dawn.  Having  placed  a  photograph  along 
with  some  other  valuables  in  the  band  of  my 
sombrero,  I  reined  my  pony  to  the  brink, 
and  was  about  to  plunge  when  I  saw  loom- 
ing on  the  opposite  shore  the  figure  of  a 
police  patrol. 

In  imitation  of  the  semaphore  system,  I 
wig-wagged  the  Filipino,  and  with  a  hoarse 
voice  in  bad  Spanish  impressed  on  his  mind 
the  necessity  of  my  getting  across.  Having 
a  passing  acquaintance  with  the  municipal 
officer,  he  recognized  me,  and  propelled  the 
boat  across  himself  by  means  of  a  cable,  the 
river  being  about  one  hundred  yards  wide 
at  this  point.  On  reaching  the  other  side, 
the  patrol  was  as  much  pleased  in  making  a 
little  side  money  as  I  was  delighted  in  get- 
ting across.  It  was  not  long  before  I  had 
stabled  my  pony  and  sought  peaceful  repose 

262 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 

in  my  Helen  Gould  cot  in  the  old  monastery. 
A  few  days  later  I  set  out  with  the  carga- 
dores  on  a  new  eircuit.  A  very  odd  scene  we 
encountered  on  this  trip  in  the  province  of 
Pangasinan  was  a  skirmish  line  of  Filipinos 
transplanting  rice  to  music.  The  rice  pad- 
dies, or  dikes,  resembled  level  meadow-laad 
and  stretched  out  as  far  as  the  eye  could  dis- 
cern in  every  direction.  About  one  thousand 
Filipinos,  men  and  women  dressed  in  loud 
colors,  were  engaged  in  this  work.  Their 
formation  was  in  the  shape  of  a  skirmish 
line,  with  a  deploy  of  about  two  feet;  each 
planter  was  covered  in  rear  by  another  who 
passed  the  rice  plants  as  the  supply  became 
exhausted;  a  short  distance  in  rear  of  all 
were  bands  of  music  with  intervals  of  one 
hundred  yards.  Large  sun-shades,  with 
long  spike  handles  stuck  in  the  soil,  afforded 
considerable  shade  for  the  musicians.  As 
the  music  from  these  bamboo  instruments 
resounded  o'er  the  meadows,  each  planter 
moved  forward  one  step,  at  the  same  time 
placing  a  rice  shoot  in  the  soil,  with  the 
utmost  uniformity  and  in  absolute  harmony 
witli  the  band. 

263 


Exploits    and  Adventures    of  a 

This  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights 
I  have  ever  seen;  the  progress  these  natives 
made  was  wonderful ;  besides,  each  seemed  to 
be  getting  a  great  deal  of  enjoyment  out  of 
life.  It  reminded  me  of  calisthenics  in  the 
navy,  where  they  execute  the  movements  of 
their  exercise  to  the  strains  of  a  familiar 
march. 

It  was  nearly  time  for  the  rainy  season, 
and  we  were  making  our  last  circuit. 
Cholera  was  prevalent  throughout  the 
Island  of  Luzon,  and  in  many  instances 
smallpox  had  been  reported.  A  "  Division  " 
order  made  it  a  court-martial  offence  for 
any  soldier  in  the  jungle  to  drink  water  that 
had  not  been  boiled.  This  order,  however, 
was  not  very  stringently  adhered  to.  Re- 
ports of  deaths  from  cholera  were  received 
daily,  in  many  instances  soldiers  being  the 
victims.  Whenever  we  found  it  convenient 
to  boil  water  we  did,  but  never  went  thirsty 
waiting  for  boiled  water. 

About  three  o'clock  one  scorching  after- 
noon we  struck  a  trail  in  a  remote  section  of 
the  San  Madre  Mountains  which  indicated 
that  cartellos  drawn  by  caribous  made  daily 

264 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 


trips  over  this  road.  While  resting  at  this 
point,  the  day  suddenly  grew  dark  and  it 
became  perceptil)lc  to  us  all  that  a  typhoon 
was  approaching.  The  lieutenant  in  com- 
mand of  the  party,  being  a  recent  graduate 
of  West  Point  and  having  had  little  experi- 
ence in  the  field,  was  slow  to  comprehend 
what  might  be  the  consequence  if  a  raging 
typhoon  was  to  encompass  this  party  in  the 
jungle. 

I  suggested  to  him  that  we  select  a  place 
at  once  and  spread  canvas.  To  this  he  ac- 
quiesced, and  ordered  me  to  take  a  Filipino 
and  follow  the  trail  until  I  reached  a  place 
of  shelter  suitable  for  the  pitching  of  a  camp. 
With  one  of  my  cargadores,  "  Blinky " 
(with  whom  I  had  just  had  a  scrap  for  par- 
ing potatoes  with  a  bolo),  I  hit  the  trail, 
and  had  covered  about  one  mile  when  my 
eyes  fell  on  a  bamboo  shack  which  appeared 
to  be  unoccupied.  On  investigation  I  found 
it  to  be  an  unusually  fine  casa  for  this  moun- 
tain district.  I  found  earthenware  olios 
filled  with  water,  dry  wood,  and  a  stone 
grate,  but  no  sign  of  any  occupants.  Tear- 
ing a  leaf  from  my  note-book,  I  informed 

265 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of   a 

the  lieutenant  of  our  good  fortune  in  having 
shelter  from  the  tj^phoon  without  the  neces- 
sity of  pitching  tents,  dispatched  "  Blinky  " 
with  the  message,  and  ere  long  the  cartello 
and  party  had  arrived. 

A  fire  having  been  made,  the  coffee  was 
put  on  to  boil,  the  natives  pared  the  potatoes, 
while  I  sliced  the  bacon  and  opened  several 
cans  of  corn  and  salmon.  The  salmon  was 
served  to  the  Filipinos  with  rice.  After  a 
hearty  supper  by  candle-light,  cigarettes 
were  smoked,  blankets  spread  on  the  bamboo 
floor,  and  we  all  stretched  out  for  a  good 
night's  sleep. 

The  advance  guard  of  the  typhoon  had 
arrived;  a  terrific  wind,  which  whistled 
through  the  palms  and  nippa-roof,  threat- 
ened at  times  to  carry  our  shack  away. 
Deep  peals  of  thunder  reverberated  from  the 
aerial  regions,  while  dangerous  flashes  of 
blazoned  lightning  tore  through  the  celestial 
firmament.  "  A  nice  night  for  a  murder," 
remarked  Corporal  "  Free,"  of  the  Sixth 
Cavalry.  There  was  little  sleep  that  night, 
which  was  evidenced  in  the  morning  by  the 
numerous  sacks  of  "  Bull  Durham  "  that  lay 
scattered  on  the  floor. 

266 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 

The  storm  continued  throughout  the  fol- 
lowing (lay,  ai)ating  on  toward  midnight. 
The  following  morning  deep  gullies  were 
worn  in  the  soil,  streams  were  flooded,  while 
the  drooping  palms  presented  a  scene  of 
picturesque  desolation.  Overhead  the  fleecy 
clouds  hovered  round  the  blazing  sun  which 
cast  its  rays  through  the  spice-laden  atmos- 
phere. 

Having  walked  some  distance  from  the 
hacienda,  1  heard  off  in  the  mountains  that 
familiar  guttural  accent  of  a  cochero  driving 
a  caribou ;  I  listened,  and  he  gradually  grew 
closer.  On  his  arrival  I  found  him  to  be  a 
Filipino  with  a  load  of  sugarcane  and 
bananas,  cii  route  to  Malolos.  Being  curi- 
ous to  know  why  this  substantial  home  was 
unoccupied,  I  inquired  in  Spanish  from  this 
man,  who  informed  me,  with  great  stress, 
that  no  natives  could  be  induced  to  live  here, 
as  the  entire  family,  the  occupants,  had 
fallen  victims  to  the  dreaded  cholera.  ^Vell, 
right  here  I  felt  as  though  I  was  on  my 
journey  across  the  river  Styx.  Shortly 
after,  on  meeting  the  lieutenant,  I  said  to 
him,  "  Lieutenant,  has  it  not  aroused  your 

267 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

cui'iosity  as  to  why  this  house  is  unoccu- 
pied?" "Why,  yes,  it  seems  strange,"  he 
rephed.  "  Well,  I  will  enlighten  you  a  bit," 
said  I.  Then  I  told  him  the  story  the 
cochero  had  told  me.  I  once  saw  a  man  sen- 
tenced to  be  shot,  and,  if  looks  count,  his 
feelings  and  those  of  the  officer  were  iden- 
tical. He  thought  it  wise  to  move  in  the 
direction  of  the  monastery;  but  I  informed 
him  that  there  was  no  need  to  worry;  that, 
if  we  had  suffered  contamination,  it  would 
have  been  all  over  long  before  this,  as  there 
is  no  delay  in  the  operation  of  an  Asiatic- 
cholera  germ.  On  learning  this  he  was 
greatly  relieved ;  so  we  shoved  off  and  com- 
pleted our  circuit.  However,  some  of  the 
party  were  pretty  uneasy;  they  had  drunk 
unboiled  water  from  the  olios.  "  Further- 
more deponent  saith  not." 

We  returned  to  headquarters  just  in  time 
to  escape  the  rainy  season.  Here  we  spent 
weeks  in  idleness,  playing  cards,  reading, 
and  occasionally  I  would  run  up  to  Malolos 
by  rail,  then  engage  a  caromato  to  convey 
me  to  jMontao  to  see  Carmen  Lemaire. 
Sometimes  the  river  was  so  swollen  bv  the 

268 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


torrents  of  rain  that  it  was  impossible  to  [i,c.'t 
across.  Xaturally,  life  became  rather 
monotonous,  and  upon  request  I  was  relieved 
and  returned  to  duly  with  my  re^^iment, 
back  to  civilization  and  the  lights  and  music 
of  the  Luneta.  This  engaging  mestizo 
senorita  visited  ^Manila  a  nund^er  of  times 
before  my  departure  for  the  States,  and, 
although  the  honor  of  "  queen  of  the  car- 
nival "  fell  to  the  lot  of  an  older  mestizo, 
the  charming  presence  of  Carmen  Lemaire 
on  this  occasion  brooked  no  competition,  for 
beauty,  grace,  or  intelligence. 

Rudyard  Kipling,  whose  "  Barrack- 
ballads  "  are  favorites  in  the  army  and  navy, 
describes  in  mililoquent  tones  incidents 
appertaining  to  the  "  Far  East,"  in  "  On  the 
Road  to  INIandalay,"  from  which  I  quote: 

When  the  mist  was  on  the  rice-fields,  and  the  sun  was 

droopin'  h)w, 
She'd  get  her  little  banjo  and  she'd  sing  the  coola  la  lo. 
With  her  arm  upon  my  shoulder,  and  her  cheek  against 

my  check 
We  used  to  watch  the  hathis,  and  the  elepliants  pilen 

teak; 
KIrphants  a  j)ilrn  t<'ak  in  tlif  smudgy  sludgy  crcfk, 
Where  the  silence  hung  so  heavy,  you  was  half  afraid 

to  speak. 

269 


Exploits   of  a    Soldier 

On  the  road  to  Mandalay,  where  the  flyin'  fishes  play, 
And  the  dawn  comes  up  like  thunder  out  a  China  'cross 
the  bay. 

The  last  occasion  on  which  I  saw  her  was 
on  the  eve  of  my  departure  for  the  United 
States.  In  a  "  victoria  "  accompanied  by 
two  University  classmates,  she  called  at  my 
quarters  in  Ft.  William  McKinley,  where  I 
joined  them  for  a  ride  to  the  haunts  of  my 
old  marine  days,  in  the  village  of  San  Ruki, 
near  Cavite.  Among  old  friends  and  the 
ever-predominant  harp  and  guitar,  I  en- 
joyed the  fascinations  of  their  quaint  moon- 
light "  fiesta." 

The  drive  homeward  to  Manila  under  the 
shades  of  night,  through  the  "  barrios  "  of 
Bacoor,  Paranacque,  and  Pasay,  with  the 
wavelets  of  the  sombre  bay  breaking  on  the 
sandy  beach,  was  one  of  imposing  grandeur 
that  will  ever  remain  vivid  when  my  mind 
reverts  to  tropical  sublimity. 

At  a  dinner  party  on  the  roof-garden  of 
the  Hotel  "  Oriente "  this  night,  I  bade 
Senorita  Lemaire  farewell. 


XIII. 


Cock-Fighting,  the  National  Sport 
of   the    Phihppines 


Training  of  thr  Birds — Mains  by  Electric  Light — 
Aristocracy  Patrons  of  the  Arena — Chinese  "Book- 
makers"—  Filipino  Touts  —  Flower  Girls  —  The 
*'  Pit"— The  Strike  of  the  Game  Birds — The  Crucial 
Moment — Game  to  the  Last — Honest  Sport. 

The  national  sport  of  the  natives  of  the 
Philippine  Islands  is  cock-fighting.  From 
infancy  the  Filipino  takes  to  this  line  of 
sport,  as  a  duck  takes  to  water,  and  he  early 
acquires  the  art  of  heeling  and  training  the 
bird  which  is  sooner  or  later  to  increase  his 
wealth  or  perhaps  send  him  hack  to  the 
drudgery  of  the  rice-fields,  where  he  must 
eke  out  an  existence  and  little  by  little 
accunudate  sufficient  to  back  another  favor- 
ite chanticleer  in  his  cflf'orts  to  recover  from 
his  sorrowful  state  of  depression,  as  a  Fili- 
pino will  bet  all  on  his  favorite  game-bird. 

271 


Exploits   and    Adventures   of  a 

The  enthusiasm  these  people  manifest 
around  the  pit  during  a  main  is  akin  to  that 
of  the  Spaniards  and  Mexicans  during  a 
bull-fight.  For  weeks  before  a  battle  the 
bird  is  dieted,  his  claws  and  beak  are  mani- 
cured, feathers  cropped,  and  plume  trimmed. 
Its  weight  requires  either  increasing  or 
diminishing,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  it  is 
handled  with  the  care  of  the  tots  in  a  baby 
incubator. 

Every  village  or  barrio  in  the  Philippines 
has  its  cockpit,  the  most  pretentious  of  these 
being  found  in  the  villages  of  Caloocan  and 
San  Pedro  Macati,  surrounding  the  city  of 
Manila.  Here,  in  a  large  well-ventilated 
arena,  can  be  found  gathered  together  night 
after  night,  not  only  a  motley  crowd  of  peas- 
ants from  the  rice-fields  of  the  interior,  but 
the  up-to-date  business  people  of  the 
*'  Escolta  "  and  the  aristocracy  of  the  old 
walled  city,  whose  gorgeous  victorias  before 
sundown  roll  gracefully  along  the  Luneta, 
to  the  music  of  the  Constabulary  Band. 
These  mains  are  conducted  under  the  glare 
of  electricity  with  the  same  success  as  by  the 
light  of  day.     Chinese,  who  are  born  gam- 

272 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

biers,  occupy  a  large  percentage  of  the  space 
given  for  seating  capacity;  tliese  people  very 
methodically  run  a  book  in  which  odds  are 
given  on  certain  birds  before  they  appear  to 
the  public  gaze.  They  are  quartered 
together  and  gamble  only  among  themselves. 
There  is  also  the  house  "  book-maker,"  who 
takes  all  bets  but  places  no  odds.  The  small 
fry,  or  the  Filipinos  whose  pesos  and  pesetas 
are  limited,  bet  among  themselves,  either 
man  holding  the  stakes. 

The  pests  of  the  American  race-track 
known  as  touts  and  rail-birds  are  also  in  evi- 
dence here.  One  of  these  will  approach  you 
asking  which  is  your  favorite  bird,  invariably 
telling  you  he  has  a  sure  thing  and  that  to 
bet  any  other  way  would  be  "  mucho  malo." 
You  bet  on  his  advice,  and  he  leaves  you, 
meets  another  easy  mark,  and  tells  him  to 
bet  just  the  opposite  to  the  way  he  advised 
you.  This  fellow  is  a  sure  winner,  as  one  of 
the  birds  must  win  and  his  nightly  rake-off 
is  a  stout  roll. 

The  price  of  admission  is  una  peseta,  or 
ten  cents  (gold).  Near  the  entrance  to  the 
"  pit  "  is  a  bamboo  stand  where  cigars,  cigar- 
is  273 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

ettes,  and  ice-cold  bottles  of  San  Miguel's 
salvaeso  are  sold.  Flower-girls  are  every- 
where in  evidence,  with  their  trays  of  palm- 
leaf  fans,  wreaths,  and  fragrant  nosegays. 
An  old  Filipino  woman  chewing  betel-nut 
and  smoking  a  black  cigar  struts  around 
selling  cocoanut  candy,  the  very  appearance 
of  which  is  enough  to  spread  the  cholera. 

As  the  time  approaches  for  the  main,  an 
old  bald-headed  veteran  of  the  cocking  main 
enters  the  screened  pit,  which  is  about  the 
size  of  a  "  Marquis  of  Queensberry  "  prize- 
ring,  and  announces  the  beginning  of  the 
evening's  performance;  he  is  loudly  cheered 
by  the  gamesters  of  the  arena.  This  is  fol- 
lowed by  the  entrance  of  the  owners  with 
their  birds. 

The  noise,  which  up  to  this  time  has  been 
violent,  here  breaks  into  a  paroxysm  of 
tumultuous  disorder.  Each  spectator  is  yell- 
ing for  his  favorite  bird,  which  he  designates 
by  its  color;  this  singsong  chatter,  being  a 
jumble  of  the  Spanish,  Tagalog,  and 
Chinese  tongues,  runs  like  this:  Color  row, 
color  row,  bianco,  Ki  tim  chung  a  wong, 
bianco,  bianco,  Ki  tim  chung  a  wong,  negro, 

274 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 


negro,  negro,  focho,  color  row,  bianco,  Ki 
tini  chung  a  wo!ig.  This  is  grand  niusie  for 
mutes  and  ])oiler-niakers!  The  sjjurs,  unlike 
the  sharp-pointed  gait's  used  on  American 
game-cocks,  are  small  steel  blades  shaped 
like  a  razor  and  honed  to  an  extreme  degree 
of  keenness.  After  the  spurs  are  fastened 
on  and  each  Filipino  is  satisfied  with  the  ire 
of  his  bird,  they  are  pitted,  the  o^vners  leave 
the  pit,  and  the  battle  is  waged;  not  in 
accordance  with  Dr.  Clark's  rules  of  the 
United  States,  however,  as  cock-fighting 
was  in  vogue  in  the  Philippines  for  ages 
before  the  discovery  of  America. 

As  the  battle  is  waged,  each  bird  seems 
conscious  of  the  dire  effects  of  the  fatal 
blade  of  its  adversary;  they  strut,  crouch, 
and  spar,  each  with  eyes  intent  on  the  slight- 
est move  of  the  other.  *'  Mucho  bueno  com- 
bati  este  negro,"  shouts  the  Filipino  as  the 
red  fowl  narrowly  escapes  a  lunge  from  the 
spur  of  the  black.  "  Negro,  negro,  buena 
negro  minok,"  shout  the  backers  of  the 
black  fowl,  which,  unlike  in  the  case  of  the 
opponents  in  a  ])rize-<ight,  the  ap])lause 
tends  to  intimidate,  rather  than  inspire 
276 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

courage  in  the  feathery  tribe.  "  Spearo  poco 
tiempo,"  exclaims  the  red  fowl's  admirer. 
"  Caramba  spearo,"  cries  the  follower  of  the 
black  with  vehemence;  "  poco  tiempo,  este 
negro,  murto  este  outro  minok,  tiene  mucho 
jinero  fora  compra  chow  fora  pickinniny, 
no  mas  traubaho."  This  mixture  of  Igor- 
rote  and  Tagalog  translated  means,  "  There 
will  be  a  hot  time  in  one  nippa  shack  if  the 
black  bird  wins." 

"Aha!"  is  uttered  in  crescendo.  They 
have  struck;  feathers  fly  over  the  pit,  and 
blood  flows  from  the  red  fowl;  they  strike 
again,  the  red  bird  limps,  and  is  seen  to  run, 
followed  by  the  black,  which  is  bleeding  pro- 
fusely from  a  gash  hidden  by  its  feathers; 
this  brings  forth  tremendous  cheers,  which, 
however,  die  down  as  the  crucial  moment  is 
observed.  "  Can  it  come  back?  "  Both  are 
weakening;  the  red  game  turns,  with  that 
blind  spontaneity  and  instinct  animated  by 
fear ;  they  crouch  and  strike  together ;  a  spur 
has  reached  the  vital  spot ;  the  black  swoons, 
its  vital  functions  have  ceased,  and  the  battle 
is  at  an  end.  As  the  red  fowl  is  proclaimed 
the  winner,  it  is  seen  to  sink,  game  to  the  last 

276 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


second;  willi  Us  lil'c  it  has  paid  the  price  of 
the  victory. 

"  They  are  dead  frame  chickens,"  remarks 
a  soldier  as  tlicy  are  carried  from  the  pit. 
Bets  are  now  paid  off,  and  the  pit  is 
sprinkled  with  fresh  sand,  new  wagers  are 
laid,  and  the  main  continnes. 

Cock-fighting  in  the  Philippines  is  honest 
sport ;  there  is  no  such  thing  as  throwing  the 
game  as  in  a  prize-fight,  or  pulling  a  horse 
as  in  racing.  The  fowls  are  usually  so  evenly 
matched  that  there  is  little  of  advantage  in 
either  one,  from  which  to  choose  a  prefer- 
ence, the  book-makers  in  almost  every  case 
relying  on  their  good  fortune. 

These  mains  are  the  most  popular  sport  in 
the  islands,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  honest 
methods  of  the  promoters  in  conducting 
them,  have  been  carried  on  for  ages  without 
cessation  or  municipal  interference,  such  as 
is  sometimes  waged  against  bull-fighting, 
horse-racing,  and  prize-fighting  in  other 
countries. 

The  very  atmosphere  of  the  Philippines 
attracts  you  to  tlicse  large  nippa  and  bamboo 
arenas,    and    it     seems    you     involuntarily 

277 


Exploits   of  a   Soldier 


follow  the  procession  here  as  you  would  the 
race-track  following  in  New  Orleans  or  the 
daily  crowd  that  gather  to  witness  "  Cuban 
pelota  "  in  Havana.  It  is  the  antique  axiom 
exemplified:  "When  in  Rome  do  as  the 
Romans  do." 


XIV. 

Departure  of  the  29th  Infantry 
from  the  Phili])i)ines 

Brigade  Headquarters,  Ft.  Wra.  McKinley — Afloat  on 
the  Pasig  River — Quarantine  at  Mariveles — Liberty 
in  Japan — -Across  the  Pacific — Reception  in  Hono- 
lulu— Greetings  in  "Frisco" — Via  Santa  ¥6  to  Gov- 
ernor's Island. 

It  was  midday  in  August,  1909,  when  the 
long  chain  of  cascoes  and  steam-launches 
loaded  with  the  three  hattalions  and  hand  of 
the  Twenty-ninth  Infantry  swung  into  the 
rapids  of  the  Piisig  River  to  the  strains  of 
that  dear  old  Southern  melody,  "  My  Old 
Kentucky  Home,"  leaving,  as  we  floated 
with  the  current,  many  a  heart-hroken 
"  mestizo "  with  her  handanna  soaked  in 
tears,  wafting  adieu  to  lier  "  Americano 
soldado,"  with  wlioni  she  liad  liad  her  hist 
glide  in  the  (huiec-halls  of  (iiiadcloupe. 
After  a  eain])aign  of  two  years  in  a  hrigade 
post  under  the  burning  sun  of  the  tropics, 

279 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of   a 

the  course  of  our  homeward-bound  journey 
had  begun  on  the  historical  old  Pasig  River, 
which,  could  it  voice  its  history,  might  tell 
many  a  weird  tale  of  adventure  and  bloody 
struggle. 

The  military  rendezvous  and  scene  of  our 
departure  was  Fort  William  McKinley, 
situated  on  a  plateau  near  the  Pasig  and 
Tagigue  Rivers,  overlooking  the  broad  bay 
and  city  of  Manila  on  the  west,  and  the  beau- 
tiful lake  in  the  district  of  Laguna  de  Bay 
on  the  east.  In  close  proximity  was  a  branch 
line  of  the  Manila  and  Dagupan  Railroad, 
connecting  the  provincial  territory  between 
Manila  and  the  village  of  Antipolo.  In 
addition  to  the  steam-train,  a  trolley  system 
covered  the  government  reservation,  ter- 
minating in  the  barrio  of  Pasig. 

At  this  post,  brigade  headquarters,  the 
troops  were  housed  in  bungalow  barracks, 
consisting  of  the  Tenth  United  States  Cav- 
alry (colored),  whose  gallantry  in  Cuba  in 
1898  forever  perpetuated  the  name  of  this 
courageous  regiment  of  horse;  the  Twenty- 
ninth  and  Thirtieth  regiments  of  infantry, 
the  last  additions  to  the  infantry  branch  of 

280 


Soldier    Ashore    and     Afloat 

the  line;  a  battalion  of  engineers;  numerous 
batteries  of  Held  artillery;  and  a  lar^e  de- 
tachment of  the  hospital  corps  completed 
the  strength  of  the  brigade,  which  was  under 
the  command  of  Brigadier-General  Persh- 
ing. 

The  Twenty-ninth  Infantry,  in  command 
of  Colonel  H.  K.  Bailey,  occupied  the  quar- 
ters in  the  southeast  section  of  the  post  and 
nearest  to  the  rifle-range.  Each  company 
was  quartered  separately,  in  barracks  iden- 
tical with  those  of  the  British  army  in  India. 
These  quarters  were  spacious  two-story 
buildings  with  large  apertures  through  which 
the  cool  currents  of  air  from  the  China  Sea 
fanned  in  gentle  breeze. 

Excellent  shower-baths  and  a  laundry, 
presided  over  by  two  Chinese,  were  valuable 
adjuncts  that  contributed  to  the  accommoda- 
tions of  the  men.  Each  morning  on  awaken- 
ing, the  soldier  found,  arranged  in  uni- 
formity under  his  cot,  his  several  pairs  of 
garrison  russet,  gymnasium,  light  marching 
order,  and  civilian  shoes,  j)olished  to  a  high 
degree  of  excellency;  placed  there  by  the 
"  Oriental    knights    of    the    zapatos,"    two 

281 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 


native  boot-blacks,  employed  by  the  com- 
pany, and  whose  duty  it  was  to  have  every 
shoe  polished  before  reveille  and  the  sound 
of  the  morning  gun. 

The  amusement-hall  contained  a  well- 
stocked  library  of  the  most  popular  editions, 
a  billiard-table,  and  a  phonograph,  so  that 
the  rainy  season  was  seldom  unwelcomed  by 
the  soldier. 

Large  verandas  shaded  by  clinging  vines 
surrounded  these  bungalows,  and  in  the 
evening,  when  not  perambulating  with  the 
procession  through  the  health-giving  ozone 
of  the  Luneta  or  cajoling  the  birds  at  a 
favorite  cockpit,  it  was  a  pleasure  to  lounge 
in  a  sedan  chair  with  a  mild  Manila  perfecto, 
and  listen  to  the  entrancing  excerpts  from 
some  favorite  opera,  as  beautifully  rendered 
by  the  Twenty-ninth  Infantry  band. 

Fort  McKinley  is  separated  from  Manila 
along  the  riverside  "  speedway  "  by  seven 
miles  of  macadamized  road,  over  which  dur- 
ing the  dry  season  vehicles  of  all  descriptions 
roll,  from  the  two-wheeled  caromato  to  the 
high-power  limousine.  This  famous  drive- 
way is  the  "  Ormond  Beach  "  of  the  "  Far 

282 


Soldier    Ashore     and     Afloat 

Kast,"  rivalling  in  climate  and  .surpa.s.sin*^-  in 
beauty  tlie  celebrated  winter  resort  of  south- 
ern Florida.  A  moonlight  ride  along  this 
magnificent  boulevard  is  a  scene  never  to  be 
forgotten.  On  leaving  the  nippa-roofed 
bamboo  shacks  in  the  ])arrio  of  CJuadeloupe, 
you  light  a  cigarette  and  recline  in  luxurious 
ease  on  the  cushions  of  your  rubber-tired 
"  victoria,"  drawn  by  a  pair  of  sleek  Aus- 
tralian ponies,  their  languid  movement  being 
in  keeping  with  the  wishes  of  the  "  cochero," 
who  regulates  his  fee  by  the  time  consumed 
in  conveyance.  The  witchery  or  charm  of 
your  entire  surroundings  is  preternatural. 
The  i)h()sj)horous  ripples  of  the  swift-llowing 
Pasig  on  one  side  seem  to  emulate  the 
scintillation  of  the  star-bespangled  firma- 
ment, Mhile,  in  rivalling  contrast  on  the 
other,  the  glow-worm  and  fire-fly  in  shelter- 
ing palms  and  over  dewy  landsca])e,  like  the 
ignis  fatuus,  seem  to  mock  the  luminous 
glow  of  the  moon. 

As  the  old  Santa  Anna  Cathedral,  with  its 
vine-clad  balustrades  falling  to  decay, 
ap])ears  in  the  scene,  looming  in  magnetic 
amplitude  over  the  verdant  foliage  of  trop- 

283 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of   a 

ical  grandeur,  it  is  with  a  feeling  of  supplica- 
tion, induced  by  the  magical  influence  of  the 
night,  that  you  involuntarily  alight  from  the 
"  victoria  "  and  enter  the  sacred  portals  of 
this  time-consecrated  sanctuary,  most  holy 
and  inviolable  site,  where  for  ages  past  the 
"  padre "  sang  mass  to  the  souls  of  the 
donors,  the  parishioners,  who,  kneeling  in 
humble  supplication,  have  chanted,  in  elo- 
quent voice,  the  Ave  Maria  and  Gloria 
Patria  from  the  prayers  in  the  three  chap- 
lets  of  their  worshipful  Rosary.  As  you 
linger  in  silent  meditation  along  the  galleries 
of  this  sanctified  edifice,  as  if  in  quest  of  the 
"  Holy  Grail,"  it  is  with  a  feeling  of  peni- 
tence for  an  inherent  apostasy  which  seems 
to  overwhelm  you.  The  glittering  satellites 
in  the  heavens  cast  their  rays  through  the 
apertures  of  the  quaint  old  campanile,  in 
whose  lofty  dome,  the  home  of  fluttering 
bats  and  a  staid  old  owl,  tinkling  bells  for 
generations  rang  out  at  sunset  and  early 
dawn,  as  the  people  sang  their  vespers  and 
chanted  the  Ave  JNIaria. 

Inflamed  with  sudden  passion  you  stand 
transfixed  along  the  balustrade  with  a  mixed 

284 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

fcclinnr  ol"  siihliiiiity  aiul  dread,  as  if  antici- 
pating a  «jfreat  pleasure  I'rauglit  with  dire 
results,  when-  hark!  the  faint  though  ever- 
beautiful  tones  of  the  "  Te  Deum  laudamus  " 
vibrate  softly  on  the  ear.  Your  peaceful 
tranquillity  has  been  pleasantly  disturbed, 
and  you  gaze  in  ecstatic  amazement  toward 
the  vestry  as  a  graceful  spectre  glides  gently 
by.  It  is  the  "  Choir  Invisible."  You  feel 
the  fanning  ze])hyrs  blowing,  you  are  thrilled 
with  emotion  and  delight,  and,  as  you  depart 
from  this  phantasmagoria,  you  soliloquiz- 
ingly  ask,  "  Is  there  any  inviolable  covenant 
this  scene  should  strengthen?"  Varium  et 
mutahilc  semper  fcmina.  "What's  the 
use?  "  you  murmur,  as  you  spring  into  the 
vehicle  and  order  the  cochero  to  hurry  the 
ponies.  In  twenty  minutes'  time  you  alight 
under  the  canopy  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Hotel  "  Oriente  "  in  Manila,  step  on  the 
"  lift,"  and  soon  find  you  are  amid  the  sooth- 
ing strains  of  an  orchestra  and  the  shelter- 
ing palms  of  the  roof-garden,  tete  a  tete  with 
your  cheerful  friends  of  the  tropics. 

Though  many  thousand  miles  from  home, 
the    prospects    of    soon    fraternizing    with 

285 


Exploits   and    Adventures  of  a 

friends  in  the  United  States  brought  cheer  to 
the  soldiers.  Disembarking  from  the  cascoes 
at  the  Quartermaster-wharf  in  JNIanila,  the 
regiment  marched  along  the  beautiful 
Bajoimbayan  drive  near  the  old  walled  city, 
to  the  government  pier,  the  point  of  em- 
barkation. As  we  bade  INIanila  and  its 
mystical  orientalism  a  parting  farewell,  our 
sea-going  tugs  ploughed  the  waters  of 
Manila  Bay,  and  ere  long  the  regiment  had 
landed  at  the  quarantine  station  Mariveles. 
If  there  is  a  more  isolated  spot  on  the  top 
of  God's  green  earth  than  this  resort  is,  my 
conception  of  hell  is  very  vague.  At  one 
time  the  rendezvous  of  Chinese  pirates, 
Mariveles  later  became  a  Chinese  stockade. 
The  Spaniards  used  it  as  an  outpost.  Here 
at  night  the  soldiers  were  cooped  up  like 
cattle,  always  welcoming  the  dawn,  when 
they  could  at  least  roam  and  breathe  fresh 
air.  Some  distance  in  the  mountains,  in 
the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  a  hot  mineral 
spring  with  an  elegant  outlet  ajff  orded  splen- 
did opportunities  for  bathing.  Swimming  in 
the  bay  was  also  great  pastime,  and  under 
the  tutorage  of  Captain  Wells,  who  inaugu- 

286 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

rated  a  system  of  swininiintr  drill,  we  found 
considerable  pleasure.  His  system  was  to 
execute,  while  swimming',  the  same  tactics 
as  we  did  on  foot;  this  was  very  funny  and 
enjoyable  sport. 

After  spending  two  weeks  insulated  from 
civilization,  during  which  time  we  had  under- 
gone a  process  of  fumigation,  our  transport, 
the  Thomas,  hove  in  sight,  and  was  soon 
moored  to  the  wharf.  Little  time  was  spent 
in  storing  our  accoutrements  of  war  on 
board.  After  each  company  had  been  as- 
signed to  its  quarters,  the  signal  to  cast  loose 
was  given;  Me  had  at  last  commenced  our 
homeward-bound  voyage  in  earnest. 

With  the  homeward-bound  pennant  flying 
in  the  breeze,  the  transport  steamed  through 
the  "  Mona-Chica  "  into  the  China  Sea 
headed  for  Japan.  The  shrill  click,  click, 
of  the  wireless  telegraph,  receiving  and 
transmitting  messages,  continued  through- 
out the  voyage.  Occasionally  excitement 
was  caused  by  the  sight  of  a  whale;  "  There 
she  blows!  "  and  you  see  oiY  the  port-side  a 
monstrous  species  of  the  mammal  genus 
cruising  and  spouting  like  a   Holland  sub- 

287 


Exploits    and    Adventures  of  a 

marine.  Schools  of  porpoises  are  a  daily- 
sight  on  either  side,  while  millions  of  flying- 
fish  skirt  the  billows  off  every  quarter. 

On  the  spar-deck  of  the  transport  could 
be  heard:  "  Come  on,  fellows,  give  us  a  bet; 
loosen  up  and  take  a  chance;  Steve  Brodie 
did ;  when  this  war  is  over  well  start  another ; 
come,  soldiers,  get  on  the  field;  double  up; 
you're  sure  to  win  some  time."  About  this 
time  a  soldier,  who  has  put  some  "  dealer  " 
to  the  bad,  grabs  the  dice  and  yells :  "  How 
much  money  have  you  got?  I'll  tap  your 
pile.  Ninety  dollars!  Throw  the  bones." 
As  this  gamester  skilfully  manipulates  the 
dice  which  he  rattles  in  his  hand,  and  blows 
on  for  good  luck,  he  affectionately  remarks, 
"Bones!  don't  refuse  me  this  time;  you've 
been  good  to  me,  old  pals."  He  rolls  the 
dice  and  throws  a  ten.  "  Two  to  one  he  don't 
ten;  I've  got  you  covered,"  is  heard  on  the 
side  lines ;  another  throw  is  made,  a  four  this 
time,  and  bets  are  made  on  the  side,  that 
he  comes.  In  the  parlance  of  the  soldier, 
the  "  bones  "  are  talking  friendly;  as  the  dice 
roll  over  the  green  cloth  for  the  third  time, 
a  six  and  four  turns  up;  "  Ten  she  is!  "  he 

288 


Soldier     Ashore    and    Afloat 

shouts,  as  he  tucks  away  one  hundred  and 
eighty  simolcons  (a  soldier's  word  for 
money)  and  exclaims,  "  Good  old  bones." 

"  Two  bits  he  comes  " ;  this  is  the  tan- 
talizing epithet  directed  at  a  fellow  whose 
death-like  form  hangs  over  the  taffrail  a 
victim  of  sea-sickness. 

Games  are  numerous  on  an  army  trans- 
port, everything  from  "  keno  "  to  "  faro," 
and  this  greatly  breaks  the  monotony  of  the 
voyage.  Every  evening  the  regimental  band 
discourses  music,  and  dancing  is  indulged  in. 
There  are  always  plenty  of  girls  who  accom- 
pany the  officers'  families  as  domestics  (all 
colors,  of  course)  ;  these  afford  partners  for 
the  soldiers,  and  maybe  there  isn't  some  class 
to  the  "rag";  everything  goes,  from  the 
"  barn-dance  "  to  the  *'  Frisco  dip." 

A  prize-fight  is  advertised  between  a 
"  chocolate  soldier "  and  a  "  ])alc-face." 
Every  man  in  uniform  buys  a  ticket,  the 
returns  from  which  go  to  make  up  a  purse 
for  the  winner.  There  are  no  Turkish  baths 
taken  to  reduce  weight,  no  skipping  the  rope 
or  punching  the  bag  to  improve  the  res})ira- 
tory  organs;  this  was  completed  before  leav- 

19  289 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

ing  the  Philippines,  by  way  of  mountain 
"  hikes "  in  heavy  marching  order,  from 
early  morn  till  dewy  eve,  subsisting  on  an 
emergency  ration,  on  which  you  are  guaran- 
teed to  exist  for  at  least  a  while.  Each 
soldier  is  so  confident  in  his  prowess,  that 
training  is  out  of  the  question ;  each  imagines 
he  will  land  a  hook  that  will  send  his  oppo- 
nent to  the  arms  of  Morpheus  for  the  cus- 
tomary count.  Steps  are  removed  and  a 
hatch  is  battened  and  roped;  as  the  time 
arrives  for  the  combat,  soldiers  crowd  around 
the  arena,  hang  from  spars  and  davits,  all 
eager  to  see  the  "  black  "  and  "  white  "  con- 
test for  superiority.  The  contestants  arrive 
with  their  seconds  as  the  band  strikes  up  a 
warm  selection,  the  gloves  are  slipped  on, 
and  the  men  take  their  corners.  The  referee 
is  a  man  who  holds  little  value  on  life  and 
must  be  able  to  fight  himself.  Time  is  called. 
The  men  shake  hands,  then  spar  awhile  for 
an  opening.  A  soldier  cries,  "Fake!  why 
don't  they  fight?"  They  now  slam  each 
other  to  body  and  head;  both  are  bleeding 
when  the  gong  sounds.  Round  second  opens 
wild;  they  swing,  hook,  and  duck,  hammer- 

290 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


ing  away  with  one  arm  free  in  the  elinch; 
each  man  dances  as  he  awaits  a  lead  from  his 
opponent;  both  take  their  corners  pretty 
much  exhausted  as  the  gong  sounds.  The 
third  round  begins  viciously,  though  each 
man  cautiously  parries  off  the  blows;  both 
are  fighting  in  good  old  military  style,  when 
they  clinch;  in  the  break-away  they  mix 
things,  and  the  pale  soldier  drops  to  the  mat 
as  the  crowd  yell,  "  Foul!  foul!  "  and  he  is 
counted  out.  A  little  ammonia  revives  him, 
and  he  is  awarded  the  decision  on  a  foul, 
though  badly  whipped  by  his  dark  opponent. 
"  Can  he  come  back?  "  Xo  one  cares.  The 
referee  is  the  hope  of  the  white  race! 

As  the  transport  approaches  the  Island  of 
Hondo,  soldiers  are  seen  polishing  their 
ornaments  and  buttons,  pressing  their  uni- 
forms, and  making  general  preparations  for 
a  visit  in  Nagasaki.  The  conversation  drifts 
to  the  way  they  are  to  spend  their  shore 
leave.  "  The  first  thing  I  do  is  to  visit  the 
bazaars,"  remarks  a  soldier;  "  I  want  to  buy 
a  satsuma  dinner  set  for  my  sister  l^eggy 
and  a  silk  kimono  for  my  sweetheart,  some 
lacquer  ornaments    inlaid    with    mother-of- 

291 


Exploits   and   Adventures   of  a 

pearl,  bronzes,  and  some  silk."  "  Well," 
remarks  another,  "  I  am  going  to  pick  out 
the  prettiest  silk  sunshade  in  Nagasaki,  some 
cashmere  shawls,  and  I  guess  a  lace  mantilla 
will  suit  Juana,  my  Creole  friend  in  New 
Orleans."  "  What's  the  matter  with  having 
a  nice  colored  '  dragon  '  and  a  '  Tycoon  in  a 
jinrickshaw'  tattooed  on  your  arms?  and 
don't  forget  to  buy  some  amber  cigar-smok- 
ers; there  are  beauties  in  Japan  and  very 
cheap,"  speaks  a  soldier  who  has  been  there. 
"  The  first  thing  I  am  going  to  do,"  another 
ejaculates,  "is  to  hie  me  to  a  restaurant  for 
a  good  square  dinner ;  a  Japanese  duck  with 
all  the  trimmings  will  do,  with  a  bottle  of 
*  Rising  Sun  saki '  on  the  side." 

On  arrival  at  Nagasaki,  a  fleet  of  Jap- 
anese war-vessels  lay  off  our  port  bow\ 
After  anchoring,  preparations  were  made  to 
give  the  boys  shore  liberty;  as  we  were  to 
remain  two  days  in  this  port,  while  the 
natives  coaled  the  ship,  it  was  decided  to  let 
one-half  of  the  regiment  go  ashore  each  day. 

"  Japs  "  with  sampans  laden  with  curios 
and  fruit  surrounded  the  ship;  these  were 
exchanged  for  money  by  the  soldiers,  and 

292 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


liauled  aboard  by  means  of  a  rope  and 
!)ucket. 

Tlie  quarantine  inspection  in  Japan  is 
very  rigid,  which  no  doubt  accounts  for  the 
excellent  health  of  the  race  and  the  sanitary 
condition  of  the  country. 

As  the  call,  "  Lay  aft,  all  the  liberty 
party,"  was  piped  by  the  boatswain,  soldiers 
filed  down  the  gangway  and  boarded 
launches,  tugs,  and  sampans,  and  were  at 
once  conveyed  to  the  "  Land  of  the  Rising 
Sun,"  tea-houses,  and  chrysanthemums. 

On  reaching  the  wharf  hundreds  of  Jap- 
anese jinrickshaw-men  were  in  line,  waiting 
to  haul  the  Americans  to  any  part  of  the 
city.  Every  "  rickshaw  "  on  the  beach  was 
immediately  engaged,  and  away  we  went 
through  the  streets  of  Nagasaki,  visiting 
bazaars,  theatres,  temples,  pagodas,  muse- 
ums, and  tea-houses.  An  unfortunate  thing 
happened  to  a  friend  of  mine  while  being 
hauled  along  the  "  Bund."  There  were  per- 
haj)s  forty  "  rickshaws  "  in  line,  each  con- 
testing for  the  lead,  when  on  turning  a  curve 
the  "  rickshaw "  in  front  of  mine  broke 
down,  ^precipitating  my  friend  into  the  dust. 

203 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

JMy  man,  being  unable  to  stop,  ran  over  him, 
the  wheel  badly  lacerating  the  whole  side  of 
his  face.  Both  "  Japs  "  ran  away  to  escape 
punishment,  the  fellow  in  the  rear  ran  into 
me,  and  there  was  a  general  spill  along  the 
whole  line.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  walking 
was  good  for  several  hours  after  this  affair. 

As  our  shore  leave  expired  at  8  a.m.,  every 
fellow  was  getting  the  best  out  of  the  hours 
that  were  speeding  by,  as  he  knew  there 
would  be  many  monotonous  days  to  spend 
on  the  Pacific  Ocean  before  reaching 
Honolulu. 

In  tea-houses  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city, 
groups  of  soldiers  sat  and  watched  the 
geisha-girls  do  the  "  serpentine "  to  the 
music  of  "  samisens,"  their  graceful  forms 
presenting  a  novel  spectacle,  draped  in  flow- 
ing silk  kimonos,  as  seen  through  a  veil  of 
cigarette  smoke. 

Next  morning  when  the  roll  was  called 
aboard  the  transport,  a  large  percentage  of 
the  "  liberty-party "  was  absent,  and  it 
became  necessary  to  send  out  a  patrol  to 
round  up  the  soldiers.  As  a  result  of  this 
celebration,  there  were  innumerable  court- 

294 


Soldier     Ashore    and     Afloat 


martials  licld  cu  route  to  the  Hawaiian 
Islands,  with  fines  ranging  from  five  to 
twenty-five  dolhirs. 

Our  voyage  across  the  Pacific  was  un- 
eventful. The  weather  was  extremely  calm, 
tlie  horizon  appearing  as  a  circular  brink  of 
a  tremendous  cataract,  over  which  the  sin'g- 
ing  billows  thundered  in  pensive  solitude. 
An  occasional  albatross  was  sighted  wing- 
ing its  flight  through  the  aerial  regions. 
Under  the  leeward  shrouds,  groups  of  sol- 
diers congregated,  spinning  j-arns  or  play- 
ing at  cards,  while  others  on  the  windward 
side  inhaled  the  health-giving  ozone  of  the 
salt-sea  breeze.  A  Japanese  mail-steamer, 
and  several  merchant  marines  were  sighted 
from  our  course,  C7i  route  to  points  in  Aus- 
tralia and  the  Orient. 

Several  liours  before  our  arrival  in  Hono- 
lulu, it  was  whispered  about  the  deck  that 
our  sliore  privileges  were  to  be  restricted, 
and,  sure  enough,  the  disappointment  was 
realized,  due,  it  was  said,  to  tliose  who  had 
overstayed  their  privileges  in  Japan.  To 
be  kept  a  prisoner  in  ^Tariveles  was  ])ad 
enough,  but  to  be  prevented  from  mingling 

295 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

with  the  throng  in  the  "  Garden  of  the 
Gods,"  the  "  Paradise  of  the  Pacific,"  Hono- 
lulu, was  more  than  the  boys  could  stand. 
As  we  entered  the  harbor,  dotted  here  and 
there  with  bell-buoys,  fishing-smacks,  yachts, 
and  vessels  of  the  merchant  marine,  we  saw 
the  new  naval  station  off  our  port  side,  and 
the  camp  of  the  United  States  marines  ex- 
tending to  the  coral  reefs  to  starboard. 
From  the  spar  deck  we  could  gaze  on  the 
beautiful  city  of  Honolulu,  with  its  white 
stone  buildings  bathed  in  tropical  luxuri- 
ance, and  the  contour  of  its  mountainous 
inland  towering  to  the  clouds.  It  was  with  a 
feeling  of  relief,  as  the  vessel  moored  to  the 
wharf,  that  a  chance  could  be  taken  on  get- 
ting ashore. 

The  wharf  was  studded  with  people, 
mostly  tourists  and  native  venders,  though  a 
large  concourse  of  officers'  families  had  come 
to  greet  their  relatives.  As  the  gangway  was 
lowered,  the  band  struck  up  an  inspiring  air, 
and  only  those  who  have  seen  an  American 
transport  loaded  with  soldiers  returning 
home  from  that  far-off  jungle  land,  the 
Philippines  and  Sulu,  can  form  any  concep- 

296 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

tioii  of  the  passionate  clis2)lay  of  enthusiasm 
manifested  on  these  oecasions. 

Vendors  of  beautiful  wreaths  of  flowers, 
curios,  and  succulent  fruit  greet  the  visitor 
on  all  sides.  These  flower  wreaths  are  worn 
around  the  band  of  the  hat  and  around  the 
neck;  they  are  a  traditional  necessity,  with- 
out which  you  are  staged,  in  this  city  of  the 
Pacific,  in  a  class  by  yourself. 

Pineapples,  pineapples,  pineapples,  every- 
where you  look;  the  most  delicious  pine- 
apples in  the  world  come  from  Hawaii,  the 
bulk  of  the  exportation  to  the  United  States 
being  marketed  along  the  Pacific  slope. 

The  shore  privileges  of  the  battalion  being 
restricted,  we  had  to  be  content  with  taking 
observations  from  the  taffrail.  I  had  been 
to  Honolulu  several  times  while  in  the  na\y, 
and  had  stopped  here  en  route  to  the  islands 
with  the  Twenty-ninth  Infantry,  so  that  I 
naturally  felt  disappointed  at  my  inability  to 
go  ashore, — so  much,  in  fact,  that  I  decided 
to  eradicate  the  feeling  at  the  risk  of  a  court- 
martial. 

Having  anticipated  making  a  social  call, 
besides    expecting    mail    addressed    to    the 

297 


Exploits   and    Adventures    of  a 


Alexander  Young  Hotel,  I  was  determined 
on  getting  ashore,  if  it  necessitated  going 
down  over  the  anchor-chains,  as  we  did  in 
the  na\^^  when  shore  leave  was  not  forth- 
coming, which,  however,  would  not  be  neces- 
sary in  this  case,  as  our  ship  was  moored  to 
the  dock. 

On  the  strength  of  being  a  non-commis- 
sioned officer,  I  thought  that  perhaps  a 
diplomatic  hand  plaj^ed  judiciously  might 
have  some  weight  with  the  colonel. 

Investing  myself  in  a  fresh-laundried  suit 
of  war-clothes,  with  carefully  wound  put- 
tees, I  approached  without  dismay  head- 
quarters, and  with  the  determination,  if 
rebuffed,  to  await  complacently  the  first 
opportunity  for  smuggling  myself  ashore, 
when  presently  I  heard  my  name  being 
called  out  near  the  gangway.  Hastening  in 
this  direction,  I  found  a  Hawaiian  mes- 
senger with  a  note  for  me.  Hastily  tearing 
open  the  envelope,  the  missive  read  as  fol- 
lows :  "  My  dear  Mr.  A ,  We  are  friends 

of  your  cousin  May;  call  up  091  Aloho  Lane 
immediately."  Had  I  received  my  mail 
from  Young's  Hotel,  I  would  have  under- 

298 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


stood  the  iiR'ssa«;c  thoroii^dily;  but,  alasl  it 
was  Cireck, — not  too  Greek,  however.  De- 
taining the  messenger,  I  sought  the  advice 
of  the  regimental  sergeant  major,  who  in- 
formed me  tliat  it  would  be  absolutely  futile 
to  apply  for  shore  leave,  as  a  number  of 
applieations  had  been  disapproved.  Feeling 
chagrined  over  my  inability  to  comply  with 
the  request  in  the  message,  I  resorted,  after 
considerable  thought,  to  the  miserable  sub- 
terfuge of  denying  my  presence  on  board. 
Seeking  the  assistance  of  Sergeant  Allen,  I 
dictated  the  following:    "  This  message  was 

opened  inadvertently;  Mr.  A has  been 

detained  in  Japan;  will  be  through  on  a  liner 
next  month.     (Signed)  Allen." 

The  boy  departed  (after  I  had  tipped  him 
on  keeping  his  counsel),  leaving  me  medi- 
tating on  how  I  was  to  get  ashore. 

My  experience  in  the  navy  was  helping 
me  wonderfully,  when  something  occurred 
demanding  immediate  action,  an  unforeseen 
exigency  in  the  shape  of  another  messenger. 
This  time  it  was  tlie  first  mate  of  tlie  trans- 
port Thomas,  Mr.  Worth,  who,  to  add  to  my 
chain  of  humiliating  circumstances,  informed 

299 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

me  that  three  ladies  were  awaiting  me  on 
the  promenade  deck,  two  of  them  Hawaii- 
ans,  the  third  an  American.  They  had 
missed  the  messenger  (thanks  for  his  care- 
lessness!). "For  heaven's  sake!"  I  ex- 
claimed; "I  am  not  on  board,  mate!  I 
am  in  Japan."  "Oh,  they  are  wise;  they 
have  been  talking  to  an  officer,  and  he  has 
sent  an  orderly  to  find  you ;  so  come  on  up ; 
they  look  good  to  me  and  they  are  anxious 
to  see  you."  (Oh,  if  I  only  had  that  mes- 
senger, what  I'd  do  to  him!)  "  Tell  them  I 
will  be  there  in  a  moment,"  I  exclaimed,  as 
I  went  below  for  some  letters  a  member  of 
the  crew  had  consented  to  mail. 

In  a  few  moments  I  had  scaled  the 
ladder  to  the  promenade  deck,  where  I  met 
the  j  oiliest  trio  of  femininity  it  has  been 
my  pleasure  to  commune  with.  Thej^  told 
me  what  great  friends  thej^  were  of  my 
cousin,  of  her  writing  them  of  my  departure 
from  the  Philippines,  of  the  explanatory 
letter  awaiting  me  at  Young's  Hotel,  and 
all  about  the  big  touring-car  awaiting  us  at 
the  pier,  et  cetera.  Two  of  these  ladies  were 
perfect  types  of  Hawaiian  beauty,  Vassar 

300 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


graduates,  and  incnihers  of  the  o])soletc 
nobility,  the  other  a  typical  American  girl,  a 
tourist,  and  daughter  of  a  retired  naval 
officer. 

I  was  aware  that  my  cousin  had  spent  the 
previous  winter  in  Honolulu,  and  under- 
stood, from  the  message,  that  she  had  written 
her  friends  of  my  home-coming  via  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  on  the  transport  Thomas, 
so  that  an  apology  for  my  failure  to  comply 
with  the  request  in  the  message  could  hardly 
be  avoided.  So  it  became  imperative  that  I 
disclose  the  facts  in  connection  with  the 
deprivation  of  our  shore  leave, — how  we 
overstayed  our  liberty  in  Japan,  and  the 
denial  of  my  presence  on  Iward  the  trans- 
port. Being  jolly  good  fellows,  these  ladies 
considered  this  predicament  a  great  joke,  as 
they  had  visited  Japan,  and  I  presume  knew 
tlie  irresistible  fascinations  of  the  "  Flowery 
Kingdom."  But  that  was  neither  here  nor 
there:  they  had  come  on  board  to  take  me 
ashore,  and  ashore  I  must  go. 

The  people  in  question  arc  warm  friends 
of  a  particular  friend  of  mine,  a  gl()l)e-trotter 
(address.  United  States  of  America)  whose 

301 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

meteoric  flights  cover  both  hemispheres,  and 
who  arranges  the  destinations  of  her  itiner- 
ary in  accordance  with  climatic  conditions; 
when  not  basking  in  the  sunshine  along  the 
Riviera  or  under  the  cocoa-palms  of  the 
tropics,  she  is  shooting  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River  or  ascending  the  precipitous 
slopes  of  Mt.  Washington.  This  lady  of 
rare  accomplishments  and  precious  jewels, 
whose  benignity  of  aspect  is  subordinate 
only  to  her  delicate  finesse,  is  related  para- 
doxically to  the  author,  through  a  long  chain 
of  ancestry  dating  back  to  the  tenants  of 
Paradise;  we  are  therefore  by  mutual  con- 
sent known  as  cousins. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  Mr.  Worth,  the 
privilege  of  his  cabin  was  extended ;  here  the 
party  was  served  with  ice-cold  "  Three 
Star  "  mineral-water,  and  here  my  departure 
from  the  ship  was  planned  with  great 
success. 

After  escorting  the  ladies  to  the  gang- 
plank, promising  to  write,  and  bidding  them 
a  farewell,  I  repaired  to  my  quarters,  in- 
vested myself  in  a  civilian  suit  of  white  duck, 
and  was  lowered  over  the  side  of  the  vessel 

302 


Soldier     Ashore     and     At'lo^il 


into  a  stcain-laiiiK'h,  whicli  conveyed  nic  to 
a  point  on  tlic  beach  where,  leaving  the 
huinch,  I  joined  the  trio  in  a  hir^re  limousine 
of  patrician  elegance,  for  a  spin  over  the 
famous  Pali  Drive.  "  That  is  going  some," 
I  remarked,  as  the  machine  sped  on.  "  Yes, 
and  then  some,"  exclaimed  the  American 
girl.  **  Well,  all  is  fair  in  love  and  war," 
ejaculated  a  dashing  Hawaiian.  "  Well, 
we'll  sprinkle  this  event  with  romance," 
added  the  other,  laughingly.  "  '  Love  and 
war  '  sounds  good.  If  I  am  reported,  I  will 
quote  that  as  my  defence,"  I  replied. 
"  Aloho  mie,"  in  an  Plawaiian  undertone, 
brings  forth  a  peal  of  laughter  as  the  party 
catch  the  sense. 

Our  ride  included  the  ever-beautiful  Pali 
Drive,  a  magnificent  boulevard  shaded  by 
the  bowery  maze  of  the  banyan-tree,  a  run 
to  Diamond  Head  Beach,  a  spin  along  Fort 
Street,  the  business  section,  and  the  "  King's 
Highway. "  x\fter  refreshments  on  the 
roof-garden  of  the  Alexander  Young  Hotel, 
where  I  received  my  mail,  we  drove  to  ODl 
Aloho  Lane,  the  home  of  these  charming 
people;  here,  surrounded  by  tropical  luxu- 

303 


Exploits    and    Adventures    of  a 

riance,  wide  porticoes,  hammocks,  and  reclin- 
ing wicker  chairs,  we  remained  for  the  after- 
noon. During  "  tiffin  "  a  victorolo  rendered 
elegant  operatic  selections,  while  suspended 
over  the  dining-table  a  punka  inspired  a 
gentle  breeze. 

In  the  evening  about  sundown  the  party, 
having  increased,  journeyed  to  Waikiki 
Beach,  the  popular  bathing  resort.  Here,  at 
the  Moana  Hotel,  we  joined  in  a  genuine 
native  "  luau,"  heard  "  Sunny  Chunna " 
sing  her  famous  compositions,  and  later 
joined  in  the  merry  whirl  to  the  music  of  the 
Hawaiian  Band.  Near  this  famous  winter 
resort  we  journeyed  into  a  gayety  hall, 
where  a  string  of  Plawaiian  beauties,  fes- 
tooned in  garlands  of  flowers,  performed  the 
"  Hulu  Hulu  "  dance,  rivalling  in  vivacious- 
ness  the  whirlwind  contortions  of  our  valiant 
Ruth  St.  Denis. 

After  a  midnight  lunch  at  the  Hotel 
Moana,  the  party  returned  to  the  city.  A 
motor-boat  conveyed  me  to  the  transport, 
which,  fortunately,  was  boarded  without 
difficulty. 

Next  morning  on  board  the  transport  I 

304 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

was  the  recipient  of  a  basket  of  delicious 
j)ineapples,  and,  as  a  memento  of  the  enjoy- 
able day,  a  scarf-pin  bearing  the  coat-of- 
arms  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

Ilonoluhi,  on  the  Island  of  Oahu,  is  the 
most  beautiful  section  of  the  earth  I  have 
visited;  the  climate  varies  little,  and  it  can 
be  more  properly  termed  a  temperate  clime 
than  tropical,  although  tropical  vegetation  is 
indigenous.  Kilauea,  on  the  eastern  slope 
of  Mauna  Loa  mountain,  is  the  loftiest  and 
most  active  volcano  in  the  world,  its  crater 
being  nine  miles  in  circumference.  Mauna 
I.oa  has  an  altitude  of  nearly  fourteen 
thousand  feet  and  is  covered  with  perpetual 
snow. 

A  few  hours  before  the  departure  of  the 
transport  for  "  Frisco,"  "  Jack  "  London, 
the  writer,  arrived  in  the  harbor  on  the 
Snark,  a  twenty-four  foot  schooner,  in  which 
he  was  making  a  tour  of  the  globe.  As  the 
ship  cast  loose  from  the  pier,  it  was  with  a 
feeling  of  regret  that  I  had  to  leave  this 
delightful  country  and  such  amiable  people. 
\Vafting  an  Aloho  to  my  friends  and  their 
country,    we    departed    for    the    American 

20  305 


Exploits   and    Adventures    of  a 

coast,  passing  en  route,  the  second  day  out, 
an  American  fleet  of  war-vessels.  As  the 
transport  approached  the  city  of  the 
"  Golden  Gate  "  in  the  darkness  of  the  night, 
myriads  of  lights  glittered  along  the  distant 
shore. 

Steaming  through  the  channel,  we  entered 
the  bay  in  the  break  of  the  early  morning. 
Off  the  starboard  side  stood  the  grand  old 
landmark  the  Clijff  House,  overlooking  the 
bay  and  city  of  San  Francisco;  on  the  port 
side,  Fort  McDowell  and  the  old  Island 
prison,  San  Quentin.  After  docking  at  the 
pier,  relatives  and  friends  of  the  soldiers 
were  permitted  on  board,  shore  leave  was 
granted,  and  the  boys  roamed  at  will  through 
the  city  that  had  recently  risen  from  a  mass 
of  ruins,  caused  by  the  telluric  flames  that 
followed  the  dreadful  earthquake  of  1906. 

Three  days  were  pleasantly  spent  in 
"  Frisco  "  ere  the  regiment  departed  for  the 
Atlantic  coast  in  three  sections,  over  the 
Santa  Fe  Railroad,  the  First  and  Second 
battalions  for  Forts  Porter  and  Niagara, 
N.  Y.,  the  Third  battalion,  non-commis- 
sioned staflf ,  and  band  for  Governor's  Island, 

306 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

N.  Y.  Being  a  soldier  of  the  Third  bat- 
talion, the  balance  of  my  enlistment  was 
spent  at  this  post  in  the  capacity  of  record 
clerk  at  headquarters  of  the  Twenty-ninth 
Infantry. 

Governor's  Island  is  a  small  island  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  of  the  East  River  and 
New  York  Bay.  It  is  connected  with  Bat- 
tery Park,  near  South  Ferry,  by  a  govern- 
ment ferry-boat,  which  makes  a  trip  between 
the  island  and  South  Ferry  every  half-hour. 
The  island  was  first  settted  by  the  Dutch  in 
1614.  When  the  English  took  New  York 
in  IfiS-i,  they  built  Ft.  Columbus,  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Ft.  Jay.  Castle  William,  facing 
the  harbor,  was  completed  in  1810.  It  is 
used  at  present  as  a  military  prison. 

Besides  the  palatial  residence  of  the  com- 
manding general  of  the  Department  of  the 
East,  there  are  various  buildings  in  which 
the  business  of  this  department  is  transacted; 
also  homes  of  the  officers,  barracks  of  the 
soldiers,  chapel,  li])rary,  post  exchange, 
quartermaster's  su])ply  de])ot,  the  officers' 
club,  and  a  museum  containing  relics  of  wars 
dating  back  to  the  revolution.    Here  may  be 

307 


Exploits    and    Adventures   of  a 

seen  in  a  large  glass  repository,  in  a  state  of 
preservation,  the  noble  steed  fully  equipped 
as  it  appeared  when  carrying  General 
Sheridan  through  the  valley  of  the 
Shenandoah. 

Corbin  Hall,  a  pretentious  building  ad- 
joining the  old  chapel  and  facing  the  parade- 
ground,  is  the  site  of  the  officers'  club,  and 
contains  a  sumptuous  ball-room,  which  is 
frequently  the  scene  of  gorgeous  military 
display.  Through  the  courtesy  of  the  Offi- 
cers' Club,  the  use  of  this  magnificent  ball- 
room was  tendered  the  Fort  Jay  Social  Club 
every  Thursday  evening,  when  mirth  and 
good-fellowship  reigned.  During  my  in- 
cumbency in  office  as  secretary  of  this  club,  I 
found  it  necessary  to  pass  unfavorably  on 
scores  of  written  applications  for  invitations 
to  these  affairs,  due  solely  to  the  fact  that, 
each  member  of  the  club  being  allowed  four 
invitations,  it  was  impossible  to  accommo- 
date more  than  the  prescribed  quota.  I 
mention  this  fact  to  show  the  popularity  of 
these  dances,  and  in  conjunction  as  a  gen- 
eral apology  to  those  to  whom  invitations 
were  not  forthcoming. 

308 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 


These  weekly  dances  had  the  true  brass- 
hiitton  effect,  strictly  military.  The 
Twenty-ninth  Infantry  band  furnished  the 
music,  the  grand-march  being  invariably  led 
by  Chaplain  Smith  of  Governor's  Island, 
accompanied  by  a  budding  debutante,  blithe 
and  fair;  these  were  followed  by  the  gay  and 
graceful  belles  of  Gotham,  each  on  the  arm 
of  a  stalwart  soldier  appearing  at  his  best. 
During  the  intermission  refreshments  were 
served  in  the  communicating  apartments. 

The  use  of  the  ferry  was  cordially  ex- 
tended to  the  New  York  patrons  of  the 
dance,  who  could  step  off  the  boat  almost 
into  the  subway,  where  an  express  could  be 
had  for  all  points  in  New  York,  Brooklyn, 
and  Jersey  City. 

The  close  proximity  of  Governor's  Island 
to  the  city  bearing  the  proverbial  appellation 
"  Gotham  "  affords  excellent  opportunity  to 
the  soldiers  for  seeing  the  sights  of  a  great 
metropolis.  Every  evening  soldiers  in 
civilian  attire  leave  the  island,  and  on  enter- 
ing the  subway  are  soon  lost  sight  of  in  this 
beehive  of  humanity.  There  are  few  items 
in  the  calendar  of  joy  which  the  soldier  over- 

309 


Exploits   and   Adventures  of  a 

looks,  for  his  duty  has  been  performed  faith- 
fully and  he  now  seeks  pleasure  with  unre- 
strained ardor. 

If  perchance,  at  the  close  of  a  drama  or 
burletta,  you  wander  through  the  "  tender- 
loin "  and  casually  stroll  into  "  Maxim's," 
"  Murray's,"  or  "  Martin's,"  you  are  apt  to 
see  him  tete  a  tete  with  his  sweetheart,  dining 
table-d'hote ;  or  hail  a  "  taxi  "  and  spin  over 
to  the  Cafe  Boulevard,  across  to  "  Terrace 
Garden,"  up  to  the  "  Haymarket,"  down  to 
"  Little  Hungary,"  or  a  variety  of  other 
amusement  halls,  and  there  you  will  find  him 
with  bells  on,  in  close  communion  with  some 
favorite  chorus  satellite,  of  perhaps  the 
"  Folies  Bergere,"  whose  grace  along  the 
"  Rialto "  brooks  no  competition,  whose 
gowns  and  ostrich-plumes  are  the  envy  of 
Parisian  salons  and  the  pride  of  "  Red- 
fern's  "  modistes,  and  whose  long  suite  is  the 
importance  she  attaches  to  her  connoisseur- 
ship  of  the  best  things  in  life.  Yes,  there 
he  is  attracted  like  the  moth  to  the  flame. 

During  the  summer  evenings  it  is  a  most 
inspiring  sight  to  witness  the  lowering  of  the 
colors,  drooping  slowly  with  the  trumpet's 

310 


Soldier     Ashore     and     Afloat 

notes  of  retreat,  as  tlie  regiment  stands  at 
parade-rest;  the  loud  boom  of  the  sundown 
gun,  followed  by  the  ])and's  rendition  of  the 
Star-Spangled  Banner,  and  the  regiment  as 
it  passes  in  review. 

]My  enlistment  having  expired  at  Gov- 
ernor's Island,  March  2,  1010,  I  was  dis- 
charged from  the  army  of  the  United  States. 


THE  END. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 

tsfefct'fouj 
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DEC  19 


DEC  36  1947 


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DEC  6    1852111 


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fi£C.  C!R.  APR  23  77 


OEC    81984 


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GENERAL  LIBRARY    U.C.  BERKELEY 


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